Monthly Archives: December 2011

Review: Hoosier Momma Bloody Mary Makers

Posted on December 31, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

As you prepare for New Year’s Eve festivities, forget not the aftermath: Tomorrow morning may hurt, and the solution may very well be found in a nice Bloody Mary.

The curiously named Hoosier Momma Bloody Mary Maker (B+), from the great state of Indiana, of course, is the latest ready-to-go Bloody to cross through our doors. It doesn’t take long to see this isn’t V8 and Worcestershire: Moderately chunky, with pulp bits, and laden with little flecks of spices. Despite the flecks, the standard version isn’t all that spicy. In fact, it has more sweetness than other Bloody mixes, a bit citrus on the finish, and very lightly spicy with a touch of horseradish.

Hoosier Momma Spicy Bloody Mary Maker (B-) kicks things up with a Tabasco-like rush. Sadly, I think this works against the mixer, coming across with raw heat and dulling the fun of this mix. The sweetness is still quite strong, but after the sugar and spice, I don’t get much more than simple tomato juice flavor.

My only other issue with this mixer is with the packaging. These mixes come not in bottles but in jars — like fat mayonnaise jars. It’s certainly unique packaging, but it does make it hard to pour the stuff inside, particularly if you’re working with a single serving or narrow glass. I get that it helps showcase Hoosier Mama’s chunkiness, but a) it’s not really that thick, and b) a wider-mouth bottle would have been more practical.

each $8 per 32 oz. jar / hoosiermomma.com

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Posted in Mixers, Rated B+, Rated B-, Reviews

Red State Bourbon vs. Blue State Bourbon: Which Will You Choose?

Posted on December 30, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

As political season heats up, our friends at Heaven Hill have a question for you: Are you a Blue State or a Red State kind of guy?

The idea is pretty genius: Two Bourbons, one called Blue State and one called Red State, complete with appropriate donkey/elephant imagery. Can the political leanings of the country be determined based on where they spend their whiskey money? You can even vote for your favorite on the whiskey’s website.

I sampled the product and, as Heaven Hill promised, it’s “basic bourbon… just for fun, really.” 80 proof and quite traditional in every way. The wood notes are strong, but the caramel and vanilla flavors have a moderate pronunciation, too. Big, raw wood character returns on the finish. It’s young stuff — alcoholic fumes are quite prevalent — but give it some air and it’s easily drinkable without a mixer or water. That said, I expect the vast majority of either of these whiskeys will go down with Coke, 7-Up, or ginger ale. In other words, don’t go looking for a lot of complexity in this Bourbon: Just an easy-to-swallow, relatively harmless concoction that’s designed to get you tipsy — just like your typical political candidate! I’d give it a B if you pushed me.

So which Bourbon is better? Alas, dear reader, while the packaging is wildly different, inside they are exactly the same. A better statement about politics I can’t imagine. Hats off to you, Heaven Hill.

about $15 each / redbluebourbon.com

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Posted in Bourbon, Whiskey

Review: Michael Collins Blended Irish Whiskey and Single Malt 10 Year Old

Posted on December 29, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Irish whiskey brand Michael Collins has been on a tear this year — taking advantage of the recent upsurge in popularity of Irish whiskey, no doubt — rebranding, repackaging its spirits (the old bottles were monstrosities), and replacing its old Single Malt whiskey with a new, age-statemented, Single Malt 10 Year Old whiskey.

We re-sampled the original Blend and tasted the new 10 Year Old, too. Both are 80 proof.

Michael Collins “Double Distilled” Blended Irish Whiskey – In theory this is the same whiskey as the prior Blend, but putting the two side by side, there really do appear to be some minor differences — and improvements — here. The color is more amber, less green, and the body seems somewhat more present and full, absent the somewhat vegetal notes (or hay, perhaps) of the version we reviewed in 2008. There’s more sweetness, and more malt, better balance on the whole. The most welcome change is that although the proof levels are the same, there’s less pungent alcohol overall, a problem that really marred the older version. I don’t know if the recipe has changed significantly, but all spirits do change and evolve over time due to the vagaries of production and the mysteries that come along with the aging process (and it’s something to keep in mind when you read older reviews of just about anything). In this case, evolution is a good thing. B+ / $30

Michael Collins Single Malt 10 Years Old Irish Whiskey – Darker in color, a bright orange almost, lots of alcohol on the nose. I sampled this at a recent whisky event and was immediately unimpressed. A formal tasting didn’t change that opinion much: This malt is just unfascinating, with an initial rush of booziness, and a big punch of wood soon after. (Perhaps the quest for an impressive age statement resulted in too much time in oak?) This moves into a kind of cloudy smokiness, with a whopper of a finish that reminds one of deeply charred wood, moss, and intense vegetation. Most of all, this is not in balance. The finish hot, bothersome, and not very inviting. The good news is that returning to the Blend for a sip afterward helps to even this whiskey out. C / $38

michaelcollinswhiskey.com

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Posted in Irish Whiskey, Rated B+, Rated C, Reviews, Whiskey

Today I Learned…

Posted on December 29, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

1 in 4 people never get hangovers.

More anti-hangover tips to help prepare you for New Year’s Eve in this Washington Post piece.

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Posted in Drinking Science, Hangover

Tasting Four Pinot Noirs from Benziger’s de Coelo and Signaterra Labels

Posted on December 28, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Today’s live tasting with Benziger’s Rodrigo Soto covered two of the winery’s alternate labels, showcasing Pinot Noir from two very different areas: The Russian River Valley and the Sonoma Coast. All wines are from the 2009 vintage. Thoughts follow.

2009 Signaterra Pinot Noir Russian River Valley San Remo Vineyard – Classic Russian River Pinot, with more of a jamminess than the coastal Pinots in this roundup offer. Definitely vibrant and easy-drinking, but not terribly complex. This is a Pinot that wears its fruit on its wine-stained sleeve. The long, juicy finish reveals little else in its playbook. B+ / $34

2009 Signaterra Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Bella Luna Vineyard – More tannin gives this Pinot more depth than the San Remo, but also more of a vegetal note, particularly on the front of the wine. Some tough bramble notes play well with the big cranberry-like character, but it’s more challenging, more interesting, somewhat less “fun” than its neighbor. B+ / $34

2009 de Coelho Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Terra Neuma Vineyard – While the nose is solid with cherry notes, the body is surprisingly — almost shockingly — thin. Sure, restraint is great, but this is way too pulled back. The finish turns green, unripe and unready. C+ / $69

2009 de Coelho Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Quintas Vineyard – Still a bit restrained, but it offers more pepper on the nose than the Terra Neuma, and represents a solid improvement. Fruit and body could be deeper, but the herbal notes on the finish give this one depth. In the end, it was my favorite of the bunch. A- / $69

benziger.com

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Posted in Rated A-, Rated B+, Rated C+, Reviews, Wine

Review: Van Gogh Vodka Cool Peach and Rich Dark Chocolate

Posted on December 27, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Two new flavored vodkas from Van Gogh, both fully in the realm of sanity when it comes to exotic inspirations. Both are naturally infused and are bottled at 70 proof.

Van Gogh Cool Peach Vodka speaks for itself, evidently desiring to challenge Southern Comfort’s place in the peach-flavored pantheon. The nose is authentic and bright, promising great things within, but the body is sharp and biting. The peach character struggles to get through the raw alcohol notes, and the finish is hard and flat. Van Gogh has much more interesting flavors up its sleeve than this one. C+

Van Gogh Rich Dark Chocolate Vodka is intensely dark in color (thanks in part to caramel coloring added) and again the nose is promising and curious. Chocolate, yes, but lots of coffee character, too. This continues on to the palate. If I didn’t know any better I’d have thought this was a coffee liqueur, not a chocolate one, the flavors are that strong. Yes, chocolate appears here too, and it is clearly bittersweet in comparison to, say, a milk chocolate spirit, with a little wood char coming through in the end. More intense than most chocolate vodkas, for sure. B+

each $30 / vangoghvodka.com

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Posted in Flavored Vodka, Rated C+, Reviews, Vodka

Review: Rancho Nuevo Tequila Reposado

Posted on December 26, 2011 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

This new tequila is only available in a reposado expression (time in barrel is 10 months, very lengthy for a reposado). 100 percent agave, of course, the nose is pungent and big, loaded with agave and pepper character, plus a touch of wood. The body reveals more nuance: Lots of sweet caramel and honey, maple syrup, and a dusting of citrus. The sweet sticks to your ribs, and your teeth: Nougat, chewy and rich, with a creamy, lasting denouement.

The label may not be the most sophisticated we’ve seen here, but what’s inside is solid.

80 proof.

A- / $35 / tequilasanlorenzo.com

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Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Tequila

Review: Glen Garioch 1994 Vintage Scotch Whisky

Posted on December 25, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Merry Christmas, dear readers! Hope your festivities are going well and you’re enjoying your favorite tipple. As for me, I’m sampling a new single malt whisky: Glen Garioch 1994 Vintage.

The somewhat simple spirits from Highlands-located Glen Garioch aren’t major names in the whisky world, and it’s trying to change that with upscale releases like this vintage-dated offering.

Glen Garioch 1994 is one of the last ever peated whiskys from this distillery (which was mothballed in 1995 before reopening a few years later, and it hasn’t used peat since). Bottled this year, you can do the math: It spent 17 years in ex-Bourbon casks.

The light straw color is surprising, and it would not normally indicate a whisky of this age. The nose, light and easy but with a smoky undertone, also screams more of youth than you’d expect. On the palate, the play between smoke and sweet are curious. There’s a butterscotch, caramel, and apple quality to the body… then the peat smoke rolls in, like a campfire that’s just getting started while you’re eating dessert. The flavors are complementary though, and even those who aren’t big peat fans will likely find the dram mild enough for easy consumption. (Even at 107.8 proof, it’s not a scorcher.)

The only thing lacking really is balance, as the elements here are not quite in harmony. I do like the way sweetness comes back to play in the finish, because while 1994 nods to Glen Garioch’s past, it goes out with a bow toward its future.

107.8 proof.

B+ / $110 / glengarioch.com

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Posted in Rated B+, Reviews, Scotch, Whiskey

Review: Two New Albarinos

Posted on December 24, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Here’s a quick look at a couple of new, relatively inexpensive Albarinos from the Rias Baixas region of Spain.

2010 Serra da Estrela Albarino Rias Baixas – Crisp and tropical, but with a distinct undertone of vegetation. The light body, moderate acid, and lemongrass notes on the finish make it worthwhile. B / $18

2009 Mar de Frades Albarino Rias Baixes – Less enthralling. Again, tropical (think mangoes), but sweeter and more forward. The finish is again sugary, and it clashes a bit with food. C+ / $22

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Posted in Rated B, Rated C+, Reviews, Wine

Review: Dr. McGillicuddy’s “Intense” Schnapps

Posted on December 23, 2011 by Christopher Null| 2 Comments

I am starting to question this “Doctor’s” medical credentials. Apple Pie Schnapps? Hmmm, color me suspicious.

Designed as “party shots,” Dr. McGillicuddy’s offers a range of traditionally flavored Schnapps… plus these four new modern additions. We braved our way into the quartet (in this order) with as open a mind as possible.

All are 42 proof.

Dr. McGillicuddy’s Apple Pie Intense Schnapps – Color me impressed. It really smells and tastes of fresh apple pie. Light and sweet, plenty of apple and cinnamon notes, and no burn at all. “Intense” it isn’t; rather it’s quite mild. I’ve actually tried apple pie flavored liqueurs before, and this one is easily the best one I’ve had to date. A-

Dr. McGillicuddy’s Wild Grape Intense Schnapps – Looks just like grape Kool-Aid. But on the tongue, it’s incredibly muddy. This is wild, but hardly grape. Flavors of burnt sugar and chemicals dominate. D

Dr. McGillicuddy’s Root Beer Intense Schnapps – Authentic root beer nose. The body, very sweet, like a can of A&W, and almost refreshing. The finish is a bit on the cloying side, but otherwise root beer nuts will find this a winner. B

Dr. McGillicuddy’s Ice Mint Intense Schnapps – Smells awfully minty, with promise. Sadly, tastes like toothpaste. C-

each $10 / drmcgillicuddy.com