Monthly Archives: November 2011

So We’re Drinking More

Have economic troubles finally sent people back to the bottle?

Consumption of alcohol hit as 25-year high in 2010, with 67 percent of Americans reporting drinking alcoholic beverages, according to a USA TODAY/Gallup poll. That was a level not seen since the late 1970s, when 71 percent of Americans reported they imbibed….

New Englanders and people in the far West and the Upper Plains states drink the most, according to the Washington based trade group, the Beer Institute. The driest states are spread across the Deep South, Texas and the mid-Atlantic (except Washington D.C.).

New Hampshire takes the top spot as the state that drinks the most, more than double the national average. People in N.H. consumed an average 6.7 gallons of wine apiece, and 3.8 gallons of liquor in 2010.

Review: Forefront Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon

Forefront, the second label from Napa Valley producer Pine Ridge, continues to produce affordable blends using grapes from all over California. We tried the latest release of Pinot Noir and Cabernet. Of special note: This holiday season, the winery is giving $1 per bottle sold to a local food bank.

2010 Forefront Pinot Noir – 63% San Luis Obispo, 34% Santa Barbara, and 3% Sonoma County fruit. I’m not sure why they bothered with the 3% Sonoma, this is a pretty hefty, southern California-style Pinot. That’s not a bad thing — I like the Pinots from the southern half of the state. For a $20 Pinot Noir, this wine has a lot going for it: Racy spices, lots of black cherries, touch of anise in the finish. It’s a bit jammier than I like Pinot to be, but with a little time in the glass it evens itself out fairly well. B+ / $20

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon – 92% Napa, 7% San Luis Obispo, and 1% Lake County fruit. Surprisingly light and easy for a Cab this young. As with the Pinot, it’s very jammy and fruit-forward. But there’s somewhat less nuance in the body — maybe a hint of menthol, but the finish is otherwise surprisingly short. Less going on on the whole, but readily drinkable. B / $20

forefrontwines.com

forefront wines Review: Forefront Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon

Review: Lights Out Relaxation Products

Relaxation mania continues with Lights Out, a whole series of products designed to help you sleep more evenly, fight stress, anxiety, jet lag, and all that other bad stuff.

Lights Out contains chamomile, skullcap, rose hips, valerian root, L-theanine, and GABA, but it’s probably the 5mg of melatonin that really does the trick.

The 2-oz. shot comes in two sucralose-sweetened flavors — tropical and, oddly, cloud berry — and both tastes are fair enough. The cloud berry version is largely innocuous and vaguely citrus and apple in character. The tropical is stronger, primarily redolent of coconut.

Strangely, the product is unique in that it also comes in a solid form: a chocolate brownie and a chocolate chip cookie. Both were exceedingly dry and crumbly, and hardly the delicious dessert confection you might be expecting.

As for the effects, with both the shot and the dessert products, I found myself falling asleep relatively quickly, with vivid and rather intrusive dreams to follow. Both times I woke up around six in the morning and had difficulty getting back to sleep — though the six-hour release time of Lights Out may have something to do with that. Still not sure how effective these are, though I felt fine and productive the following day. That said, I’m not exactly clamoring for another brownie.

C+ / about $4 per product / lightsoutshot.com

lights out Review: Lights Out Relaxation Products

Review: Kilchoman Inaugural 100% Islay

We’ve been covering the quarterly releases from Kilchoman — established in 2005, it’s the first distillery built in Islay for 124 years — since mid-2010, and finally the distillery is releasing its “Inaugural” whisky. That, of course, is a bit of a misnomer, since Kilchoman has released at least eight whiskys that I’m aware of previously — but this one is the first bottling made from barley grown, malted, distilled, aged, and bottled all at the distillery on Islay.

That said, there is precious little of it to go around — just 780 bottles are available for the U.S. market. The spirit, 3 years in Bourbon casks and 5 months in Sherry, sticks close to the Kilchoman formula, with a few twists. Though a touch hotter than the quarterly bottlings at 100 proof, it retains its smoky core. This is a heavily peated whisky on par with typical Ardbeg or Laphroaig, but unlike most extra-smoky malts, it has a certain sweetness to balance things out. Probably from the sherry finishing, that campfire gets cut down to size pretty quickly, offering apple fruit and citrus notes on the finish.

Ultimately I’m reminded a lot of the recent Laphroaig Cairdeas release, another very young whisky that still retains a lot of character and manages to pull off a sweet finish, too.

A- / $100 / kilchomandistillery.com

Kilchoman 100 Percent Islay Inaugural Review: Kilchoman Inaugural 100% Islay

Review: Southern Comfort Fiery Pepper

You’ve probably been wondering about this for years: Why doesn’t Southern Comfort partner with Tabasco on a liqueur?

You’re reading everything right: SoCo now comes in a “Fiery Pepper” version, bringing, uh, the best of two worlds together.

SoCo isn’t the first company to try this. We’ve reviewed several pepper-infused tequilas in the past. But SoCo is known not for its bite but rather its sweetness and smoothness. Tabasco you surely know.

The results: The nose doesn’t let on as to what’s inside, offering mostly traditional peach and apricot character. The palate is something else: It starts sweet, almost sedate. But take a big swig and the heat hits the back of your palate pretty hard. If you like spicy food it’s not really much in the way of a burn, but the unprepared will probably be knocked back a peg.

The funny thing is that, in a way, all of this works. The heat counters some of SoCo’s traditional cloying character, leaving you not with a mouthful of sugar but with a low smolder. What it doesn’t do is come together in any truly balanced way: It’s sweet, then hot, with not a lot of connective tissue between the two characteristics.

Certainly it’s cheap enough to give it a try — and if you’re a SoCo fan you’ll probably be intrigued — but don’t expect a mind-altering experience.

70 proof.

B- /$11 / southerncomfort.com

soco fiery pepper Review: Southern Comfort Fiery Pepper

Review: Weyerbacher Insanity

How can a brewery improve on its already successful barleywine? Weyerbacher suggests throwing it in some bourbon barrels. Weighing in at 11.10% abv, Insanity is Weyerbacher’s twist on the English Barleywine style, letting its normal Blithering Idiot age in oak casks to pick up a slew of new, complex characteristics.

Upon first sniff, Insanity seems to struggle as if it wants to come across as an actual beer or whiskey. Strong aromas of bourbon, vanilla, slightly charred oak, and dark cocoa fill the air to complement the caramel and malts from the base beer. Insanity doesn’t fail to deliver on the palate, either, delivering a range of flavors balanced between sweet and boozy. The bourbon continues to play a prominent role, but doesn’t dominate, allowing the rest of the notes to develop and evolve. Expect the vanilla to be the focus with burnt sugar, toffee, and chocolate rounding out the taste.

While bourbon barrel-aged beers are quickly gaining popularity within the craft beer scene, being able to keep the beer balanced and drinkable is a difficult exercise that Weyerbacher seems to have figured out. Despite bursting with bourbon qualities, Insanity fails to take on the alcohol heat from it. What we are left with is an amazingly smooth ale that drinks much easier and more enjoyably than the 11.10% abv would have us believe.

A / $4.50 per 12 oz. bottle / weyerbacher.com

insanity Review: Weyerbacher Insanity

Welcome Greg Bruce

Howdy Drinkhacker readers!

I’m excited to let you know that today we’ve added our first additional writer, Greg Bruce, to the Drinkhacker roster. Greg is a die-hard beer nerd, and he’ll be exclusively focused on increasing the volume and depth of our beer coverage, a category which, frankly, I just don’t have enough time to analyze in depth singlehandedly. I’ll still cover beer from time to time, but I expect Greg will do the lion’s share of the reporting for us.

Check out Greg’s first review of Weyerbacher’s Insanity, and if you have a beer question or review request, email Greg at bruce [at] drinkhacker [dot] com!

 

Review: MacKinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt Whisky “Shackleton”

In 1907 Ernest Shackleton was setting off on his “Nimrod” expedition to the South Pole. Along for the ride: 25 cases of whisky from the Glen Mhor Distillery, to keep the spirits of the sailors up.

Shackleton didn’t quite make it to the Pole on this trip, and he had to leave behind some of the whisky too, left in his expedition hut. It’s been sitting there ever since, part of an international treaty… until 2010, when it was decided that some of the whisky would be returned to civilization. There’s even a TV show about it coming up:

To date, only a handful of people have tasted the recovered spirit, including our friend Richard “The Nose” Paterson, who endeavored to re-create the Shackleton whisky for modern drinkers, trying to copy it as closely as possible by using existing whisky stocks from numerous distilleries (including what remains of Glen Mohr, destroyed in 1986), with ages ranging from 8 to 30 years old.

The results are a bit like stepping back into time, 100 years gone. They drank pretty well back then, it seems. The “Shackleton,” as it’s known, is surprisingly delicate for an era when heavily peated bruisers were the norm. The nose balances peat, coal smoke, and wood with fruit — citrus and banana. On the palate, the smoke nearly disappears, with much more fruit character, nougat, and straw notes. The smoke returns in the finish: Warming and moderated.

Bottled at 94.6 proof (just like the original), it is presented in a replica bottle with replica label, right down to the label. Definitely a conversation piece — and a worthy one.

A- / $150 / enduringspirit.com

shackleton whisky Review: MacKinlays Rare Old Highland Malt Whisky Shackleton

Review: Wente Heritage Block Series Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon

These two new releases come from Wente’s Heritage Block series of simpler, everyday wines.

2010 Wente Riva Ranch Chardonnay Arroyo Seco Monterey – Traditional in style, with that hugely buttery body, grilled and smoked meats on the nose, and a long, savory finish. B / $20

2009 Wente Charles Wetmore Cabernet Sauvignon Livermore Valley – A youthful, ultra-jammy wine with characteristics of licorice and oak, with lots of raisins and a pruny finish. Not fulfilling. Tastes really inexpensive. C- / $25

wentevineyards.com

 

 

Review: 2007 Conn Creek Cabernet Sauvignon

Conn Creek is a Napa-based winery founded in the 1970s that makes wines almost exclusively from Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux grapes. Today it produces dozens of wines, including many single-vineyard wines from all over Napa Valley (called the AVA series). We checked out four of these wines, plus the less expensive, blended “Napa Valley” offering.

2007 Conn Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley – A fruity, ready-to-go Cab, with plenty of cherry character, some olive notes on the finish, and a moderate body. Not complex, really, but quite easy-drinking and both food-friendly and ready for solo consumption. I wouldn’t hesitate to pop this open on a whim for just about any occasion at this price. A- / $25

2007 Conn Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Atlas Peak Stagecoach Vineyard – Similar, fruity, quite jammy with distinct plum character. Surprisingly easygoing for mountain fruit. Hang around for the smoky tobacco finish. A- / $45

2007 Conn Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Carneros Truchard Vineyard – Carneros isn’t known for Cabernet, but Conn Creek does a credible job with this one. A little pruny, erring toward the raisin side of things, but the lively fruit character saves the day. B+ / $45

2007 Conn Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District – Again, this district normally produces thick, tannic wines, but Conn turns the dial down, with a lively and lush wine, both fruity and full. Some light chocolate notes play with big plum character. Arguably my favorite of the group. A / $45

2007 Conn Creek Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Collins Holystone Vineyard – Distinctly different than all of the above, it has more of a tart body to it, with a candy-like finish, almost like Jolly Ranchers. I’m torn on it: It’s extremely easygoing on its own, but too jammy for food. B+ / $45

conncreek.com