Monthly Archives: November 2011

Review: Natural Merchants Organic Lorenz “Symphony” Wines

Posted on November 30, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Natural Merchants Selections imports over 100 wines from all over Europe, all of which are organic. We tried the importer’s Symphony wines from Germany, a white and a red. Thoughts follow.

2010 Lorenz Symphony Riesling is a blend of 85% Riesling and 15% Rivaner, all organic, from Germany’s Rheinhessen. A bit on the lightly sweet side, the wine offers distinct pineapple notes, with a long, lemon-fueled finish. Pleasant and fruity, with a long finish. B+

2010 Lorenz Symphony Red Wine is a blend of 90% Dornfelder and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, all also organic and from Germany’s Rheinhessen. This doesn’t go very far in convincing me that Germany should have nothing to do with red wine, a rather plain and unconvincing red with a character something like Jolly Ranchers left to melt in the sun. Watermelon, over-ripe cherry, and strawberries polish things off. C-

each $17 / naturalmerchants.com

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Posted in Rated B+, Rated C-, Reviews, Wine

Tasting Report: Wines of Argentina’s Santa Julia

Posted on November 29, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

The Zuccardi family considers itself a small wine operation. And perhaps by Argentina’s standards it is. Founded in 1963, the winery produces millions of bottles of wine annually (most for domestic consumption), employs 700 people year-round, and runs a vast tourism operation out of its facilities, where visitors can take hot-air balloons, ride horses, and learn to cook, Pampas-style.

Julia Zuccardi, the 29-year old ingenue for whom Santa Julia is named, recently visited San Francisco to show off her wines — and she brought her chef with her, Ana Soledad Rodriguez Armisen. Ana cooked lunch (and showed us her chimichurri recipe — the secret is paprika!) while Julia talked wine. For these prices — no wine is more than $13 a bottle — these were surprisingly good, and they went well solo or with food.

Thoughts follow.

santajulia.com.ar

Tasting Report: Wines of Santa Julia

NV Santa Julia Brut Rose / $13 / A / delightful, what a rose sparkler should be; touch of sweetness

2010 Santa Julia [+] Torrontes / $10 / B / grassy, melons, lean finish

2011 Santa Julia Organica Chardonnay / $11 / A- / really bright citrus, unoaked

2010 Santa Julia Organica Cabernet Sauvignon / $11 / A- / light body, cherry qualities

2010 Santa Julia Riserva Malbec / $12 / B / cherry, plus and raisins, bit charcoal on the finish

2009 Santa Julia Riserva Cabernet Sauvignon / $12 / B+ / jammier in style, some pepper in there

2009 Santa Julia Tardio (500ml) / $13 / B+ / late-harvest Torrontes; nice, not too sweet, mostly orange in character

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Posted in Reviews, Wine

Two Crazy Drinking-Oriented Stocking Stuffers

Posted on November 29, 2011 by Christopher Null| 2 Comments

We can’t really “review” these things, but both are cheap enough to make great stocking stuffers for the younger drinker (by which we mean the college kids) in the family. Grown-ups need not apply.

The ShaKoozie combines a beer koozie with the shower. Velcro lets you attach the koozie directly to the shower wall, so you never have to be without your Silver Bullet. It’s so crazy it just might work! $10

Ali Spagnola’s Power Hour Drinking Game Album is a shot glass and USB thumbdrive in one. The thumbdrive contains 60 drinking songs, all a minute long. The idea is you consume one shot — of beer — each minute, letting the music be your guide. After an hour you’ve downed five full beers and, presumably, you’ll have quite a story to tell. I’ve normally heard this done with 100 minutes and 100 oz. of beer — which sounds far, far crazier. $30

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Posted in Barware

Review: 2009 Sonoma Coast Vineyards SCV Pinot Noir Freestone Hills Sonoma Coast

Posted on November 28, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

This Sonoma Coast Pinot comes from three vineyards on the coast. The results are just plain fancy: This wine exudes pepper on the nose, then kicks into a palate that offers tons of rich cherry character, more pepper, cinnamon, and a touch of mint. Big body, lots of intensity. Finish is savory, not at all fruity. Quite an interesting balance of flavors, and definitely worth sampling.

A- / $40 / sonomacoastvineyards.com

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Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Wine

Review: The Bruery Black Tuesday

Posted on November 28, 2011 by Greg Bruce| Leave a comment

Drawing allusions to the Stock Market Crash of 1929, The Bruery experienced its own “Black Tuesday,” which eventually led to the naming of this massive imperial stout. While brewing, one of the assistant brewers left a mash paddle in the tank, causing scalding water and grain to slowly flood the brewery and burn those trying to contain it. Like the stock market, though, The Bruery was able to recover and salvage the remains of Black Tuesday.

Living up to its name, Black Tuesday is a glossy, foreboding black. A surprising amount of carbonation and bubbles can be seen slowly rising up the sides of the glass, continuously feeding and resupplying the tan head. Black Tuesday comes across as bold and brash in the aroma, as dark chocolate, anise, roasted malts, and alcohol all battle for top marks. For being aged in bourbon barrels for fifteen months, Black Tuesday doesn’t display as much as the barrel as I would’ve expected. The bourbon is buried underneath most of the sweetness and alcohol heat, but there is a noticeable amount of vanilla that helps cut through some more of the abrasive flavors. As it settles on the palate, it continues to develop and evolve, and the sugary sweetness of the malts lends it an alcohol-soaked fruit flavor.

It is no surprise that at 18.3% abv, this beer is pretty hot in terms of alcohol presence, but I have to say that the flavors go a long way in covering it. However, that aspect coupled with a sweet profile makes this a sipper and I would highly recommend splitting this at least two ways!

A / $30 per 750ml bottle / thebruery.com

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Posted in Beer, Rated A, Reviews

Review: Icelandic Glacial Spring Water

Posted on November 27, 2011 by Christopher Null| 2 Comments

We’ve resisted reviewing bottled water on this blog, but finally we’re caving in.

Water from Iceland doesn’t sound entirely eco-conscious, but Icelandic says it is a carbon neutral product — in fact, it says it this the first CarbonNeutral (a private certification) bottled water in the world.

Sourced from Iceland’s Ölfus Spring System, this protected zone has no farming, animals, or buildings allowed within the 128,000-acre area. 0.1% of the annual spring flow is harvested from surface water; the remainder (reportedly double the world’s bottled water consumption) returns to the ocean. The bottling plant is hydroelectric-powered, packaging is made from 75% recycled materials, and carbon offsets are used to bring the water back up to carbon neutrality. As “green” products go, it’s hard to find any real fault with Icelandic.

On to the water. Total dissolved solids are 62 mg/l, and the pH is 8.4. The taste is very neutral, with a good mouthfeel and body. It doesn’t have that plastic taste that so many bottled waters succumb to, nor does it taste metallic like heavier mineral waters. There could be the slightest touch of citrus here, but otherwise it tastes like water should: Like nothing.

A / $7 for 6-pack of 500ml bottles / icelandicglacial.com

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Posted in Mixers, Rated A, Reviews

Tasting Report: Simply Italian U.S. Tour 2011

Posted on November 26, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

This recent wine event featured a collection of all-over-the-map Italian wines, from well-known brands like Antinori and Donnafugata to obscurities (and lots of cheap stuff) seeking an importer on our shores. No guarantee that you’ll find any of these for sale, including, tragically, the perfectly-formed 2007 Tenuta Carretta Cannubi Barolo, perhaps the best Italian wine I’ve had in years.

For this event, please see our disclosure.

Tasting Report: 2011 Simply Italian Great Wines U.S. Tour

2005 Avide Barocco DOCG / B / overly acidic

2008 La Togata Rosso di Montalcino DOCG / B / stalwart

2009 Tenuta Carretta Bric Quercia Barbera DOC / B+ / candy finish

2008 Tenuta Carretta Bric Paradiso Roero DOCG / A- / Nebbiolo, big finish

2007 Tenuta Carretta Cannubi Barolo DOCG / A+ / perfect Barolo – big wine, sikly texture, lovely balance

2007 Tenuta Carretta Cascina Ferrero Barolo DOCG / A- / very good also

2008 Tenuta Carretta Bordino Barbaresco DOCG / A- / really fruity, more spice

2004 Castelcosa SoleTerraVite / B+ / merlot heavy blend, has balance issues

2007 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Riserva / A / great body and balance

2007 Alois Lageder Lindenberg Lagrein / B+ /

2006 Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva / B / over earthed

2009 Antinori Il Bruciato / B /

2008 Masi Brolo di Campofiorin Rosso del Veronese / B+ / very young

2006 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato DOCG / B / tough and intense

2009 Pio Cesare Fides Barbera d’Alba DOC / A- / young and fruity

2010 Bidoli Merlot Friuli Grave DOC / B / very young

2009 Campo Sera Lugana DOC Superiore / B+ / figs, minerals

2007 La Berra Lugana DOC / B+ / heavy body, bit astringent

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Posted in Reviews, Wine

Review: Hawaiian Vodka and Hawaiian Coconut Vodka

Posted on November 25, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Hawaii is a land of rum and super-sweet frozen concoctions, but lately it seems that more vodka has been coming off the island than anything else. Hawaiian Vodka is distilled from sugar cane and filtered through lava rocks.

Hawaiian Vodka – The nose offers distinct candy character, with a moderately alcoholic undertone. This follows through pretty much exactly to the body, which is sweet, but not cloying. Again, that medicinal, alcoholic undertone is present, which mainly serves to prove this is vodka instead of white rum. Otherwise, secondary characteristics are elusive: Perhaps a touch of pineapple, and maybe a bit of orange peel. On the whole, it’s got a a nice balance of sweetness with traditional vodka notes. 80 proof. A-

Hawaiian Coconut Vodka – The smell hits you right when you pour a glass from the bottle, intense coconut character, heavy on the husk, actually, possibly a remnant of that lava rock filtering. The flavor is intense, surprisingly not quite as sweet as the unflavored vodka, but imbued with coconut flavor. Touch of chocolate — cocoa powder — on the finish. Really nice, but again, for the sweet tooths. 70 proof. A-

each $25 / hawaiianvodka.com

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Posted in Flavored Vodka, Rated A-, Reviews, Vodka

Drinkhacker’s 2011 Holiday Gift Guide – Best Alcohol/Spirits for Christmas

Posted on November 24, 2011 by Christopher Null| 7 Comments

Happy Thanksgiving! While you’re enjoying your turkey, stuffing, and pie, many a thanksgiver’s thoughts turn to booze. Specifically, what one might buy for a favored loved one come holiday time. I’ve collected all my favorite spirits from 2011 here for you, but this is just a small sampling of what’s worthy on the market right now. Scan through the category of your choice for other ideas, and chime in with your own gift ideas!

Also check out our 2010, 2009, and 2008 holiday guides.

Bourbon – Big Bottom Whiskey 2 Years Old Port Cask Finish ($40) – Technically not a Bourbon, but close enough. I gave only two A+ grades (outside of event coverage) all year, and this was one of them. Finding this now will be tough (we’ll have a review of the 3 Years Old version shortly), so if this doesn’t pan out try Parker’s Heritage Collection Cognac Finished 10 Years Old ($80) or Col. E.H. Taylor Old Fashioned Sour Mash Bourbon ($70). You can also try Angel’s Envy ($45), technically a 2010 release but also Port-finished and about as good as Big Bottom.

Scotch – The Glenlivet Founder’s Reserve ($375) – This is my “go-to” whisky right now, though it’s rapidly depleting, and the price may make it a big much for anyone short of a spouse. If you can find Glenfiddich Snow Phoenix ($95) or Laphroaig Cairdeas ($60), both make outstanding gifts. And MacKinlay’s “Shackleton” ($150) is worth the price alone for the conversation value.

Gin – Bloom Gin ($29) – No question on this one. The floral but not perfumy Bloom is one of my favorite gins today. It may be made for a woman, but it’s powerful enough for a man.

Vodka – Russian Standard Gold Vodka – At $45, it’s pushing the boundaries of what anyone should pay for a neutral spirit, but it’s good and the package is striking enough to require no wrapping paper, saving you a few bucks. For your more avant-garde friends, check out Sub Rosa’s Flavored Vodkas ($30) or a bottle of Skyy Blood Orange ($18).

Rum – Montanya Platino Rum ($30) – So much good rum came out this year, but Montanya’s simple, pure, and bracing white rum is my winner for what you should give a loved one. Bottled in Colorado, not Latin America, they’ll immediately want to know more. For more traditional gifts, I also loved Berrys’ Own Panama Rum 10 Years Old ($80) and Brugal Extra Viejo ($27).

Brandy – “Original Gangster” XO Brandy ($25) – This gift works on a couple of levels. First, the packaging and name are so ridiculous that your hipster friends will get a solid, 25 dollar laugh out of it. Second, the brandy is actually pretty good, so you can actually drink it when you’re done giggling.

Tequila – Casa Dragones ($275) – The other A+ I gave this year, but considering the price of this. Tequila is still on the rise, and lots of good stuff is on the market, including Gran Dovejo Blanco ($47), El Gran Jubileo Extra Anejo ($65), and Excellia Blanco ($50), among many others.

Liqueur – Tatratea (up to $60) - A collection of five tea-flavored liqueurs, each increasing in proof level. Exotic and bizarre, and totally worthwhile for the liquor snob who has everything. Home cocktail enthusiasts would also love a little Pimento Dram ($28) or the all-new Drambuie 15 ($56).

Need another custom gift idea? Drop me a line or leave a comment here and I’ll offer my best advice!

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Posted in Bourbon, Brandy, Gin, Liqueurs, Rum, Scotch, Tequila, Vodka, Whiskey

Review: 2007 Stoller SV Estate Pinot Noir

Posted on November 23, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Stoller Vineyards is an organic and eco-friendly winery in Oregon’s Dundee Hills region of the Willamette Valley, specializing in Chardonnay and (of course) Pinot Noir. With this 2007 SV Estate Pinot Noir, Stoller pumps out a textbook Oregon Pinot, stuffed with dried herbs, licorice, and dark berries. It’s almost unripe, really, as if the grapes were not quite at maturity when they were harvested. That said, the bramble character, earth tones, and chocolate-covered raisin finish offers plenty to explore. Definitely a wine to drink with a big meal, like your Thanksgiving feast.

It’s actually even more perfect to drink tomorrow: It’s not just a classic American wine, there’s even a turkey on the label.

B+ / $40 / stollervineyards.com