Monthly Archives: September 2011

Why Aren’t You Drinking Beer?

Beer sales continue to fall in the U.S., according to data compiled for the 2011 Beer Handbook — although craft beers continue to do reasonably well. Has beer become boring? The outlook for the industry is “not promising,” according to the study. Perhaps they should bring back Zima? Who’s with me?!

For the fourth year in a row, the beer industry has continued its declines and lost 1.9% to total 2.8 billion cases. According to the Beverage Information Group’s recently released 2011 Beer Handbook, continued declines in the Light segment continue to contribute to the overall losses in the industry. This segment has seen declines amongst its core brands and is only seeing pockets of growth from newly introduced line extensions.

Despite the struggling economy, growth was seen among the Craft segment as well as Imports. The higher-priced Craft segment continued to post solid gains due to consumers’ attraction to the interesting flavors craft brewers offer. Imports, which previously have been experiencing declines, gained 0.9% to 362-8 million cases last year, but that is still 11.1% lower than its pre-recessionary levels.

“The Super Premium, Craft/Specialty, and Flavored Malt Beverage category has benefited from the Craft sector’s growth,” says Eric Schmidt, Manager of Information Services for the Beverage Information Group based in Norwalk, Conn. “Consumers are gravitating toward premium products with exciting and new flavors – something the craft segment has done well in providing.”

According to the handbook, the future of the beer industry does not look promising. Rising fuel costs and high unemployment rates among its core consumers are two factors in its downfall. The growth in Super Premium, Craft/Specialty and Flavored Malt Beverage segment is predicted to show positive growth in the next five years; unfortunately, these gains can’t offset the losses in the remaining domestic segments.  Premium, Light, Popular, Ice and the Malt Liquor segments are expected to decline in the short term.

Tasting Report: Momokawa Sake

momokawa diamond sake 116x300 Tasting Report: Momokawa SakeWhen he stopped by with six bottles of domestic rice wine, I asked Dewey Weddington, VP of Marketing for Momokawa, why anyone would want to drink an American sake. The answer was not exactly surprising: Because it tastes good… just like American red wine is as good as French, just as American beer is as good as German. And in the case of Momokawa’s sake, that’s because, Weddington says, it uses the exactly same equipment and production methods as they do in Japan. But making sake here offers one huge advantage: Cost. By producing domestically, Momokawa saves on shipping and taxes, big time: The same bottles produced in Japan would cost $25 to $30 once they arrived on shelves here, instead of the $12 or $13 for which these domestic versions retail — and which are some of the country’s best-selling sakes.

Momokawa, part of the SakeOne empire, is produced in humble Forest Grove, Oregon, a rural community about an hour outside of Portland and just north of Oregon’s increasingly popular wine country. Why make sake here, I wondered? It’s all about the water, says Weddington: When SakeOne — which also imports a dozen or so brands of sake in addition to the ones it makes — was looking for a place to build its brewery, it tested the water in a variety of regions of the country. Forest Grove had what it was looking for: No iron and no manganese in the water supply, both of which muck with sake production in unpredictable (and usually funky) ways.

Momokawa’s sakes are all junmai ginjo varieties, and all are produced using California “Calrose” rice. Only the yeasts and filtration methods differ, and the two organic (green bottle) sakes produced use organic strains of rice. We sampled all six. Thoughts on each follow.

Momokawa Silver Dry Crisp Sake – Aged 4 to 6 months. A classic sake style, very crisp and light in body. Easygoing, with good melon character. A- /$12

Momokawa Ruby Lightly Sweet Sake – Aged about 3 months, this has touches of sweetness (as the name suggests), and a good balance. The mouthfeel is round and the finish is long, offering some earth tones. B+ / $12

Momokawa Diamond Medium Dry Sake – A blend of Silver and Ruby. It offers a mix of the two styles, but they just don’t come together in the right way for me. This is my least favorite Momokawa offering, though admittedly I liked it more today — when fresh from the brewery — than the last time I reviewed it. B / $12

Momokawa Organic Medium Rich Sake – Green bottle = organic. This sake is produced in the same style as Ruby, but the ultimate impact is much different. It’s got a bigger and bolder attack, with a really robust flavor that offers better balance. Definitely worth the extra buck. A- / $13

Momokawa Organic Creamy Nigori Sake – The first of two nigori, or cloudy, sakes reviewed, this sake and Pearl (below) are identical except for the organic rice used. Big melon character works well with the slightly stronger (16% alcohol vs. about 14% for the four sakes above) alcohol content, giving this sake a good complexity to match its strong back. A- / $13

Momokawa Pearl Creamy Nigori Sake – At 18% alcohol, it’s a bit of a bruiser, and has more heat to it than I’d like. Big and intense, with a tart finish, and it plays with a lot of sweetness and chewy fruit in the body. This style of milky white sake is looked down upon in Japan, but it’s the top selling type of sake in the States. Curious. B / $12

sakeone.com

momokawa sake 525x393 Tasting Report: Momokawa Sake

Review: Buffalo Trace White Dog Wheated Mash and Rye Mash

White dog whiskeys aren’t usually very exciting, but these are more so, since I got to try Buffalo Trace’s white dog right off the still when I visited there. With these two bottlings, Buffalo Trace offers a look at the differences between wheat-heavy and rye-heavy whiskeys, sans aging time.

If this sounds familiar, it’s because you might be recalling Heaven Hill’s Trybox series, where a rye white whiskey was pitted against a corn white whiskey. Since no one actually makes 100% corn (aged) whiskey in the real world, that test was a bit of a red herring… but this one, wheat vs. rye, is, I think, more instructive. Originally sold as a novelty item as the distillery, the new make spirit is now being sold nationally… though at $32 equivalent per 750ml bottle, these experiments are a bit pricey unless you’re pretty far down the whiskey rabbit hole.

Buffalo Trace White Dog Wheated Mash is 114 proof, from a mash composed of corn, wheat, barley. (Exact mashbill figures aren’t available.) The effect is, as with most white dogs, a bit overpowering: Corn character and raw ethanol notes compete to create a funky, difficult experience, even after cutting it down with water. Normally I enjoy wheated whiskeys quite a bit, but in this white dog it doesn’t really show much depth. B-

Buffalo Trace White Dog Rye Mash is quite a bit hotter at 125 proof, which makes comparison difficult. But even without a lot of watering down, the rye, barley, and corn recipe shows itself to be surprisingly more flavorful, with exciting spice notes and a lingering earthiness that manages to cut through the rawness and big, sour corn funk. Yeah, it’s still white dog, with a big slug of grain character on the finish, but it’s a big improvement over the Wheated Mash. Color me surprised. B+

$16 each (375ml bottles) / buffalotrace.com

Why People Get Tanked at the Office Party

Ever wonder why demure Katie gets so wild at the annual office Christmas affair? Blame it on, well, the office. Per the Daily Mail:

Drinking in environments not traditionally associated with alcohol leaves us far less able to control our behaviour, [researchers] claim.

While alcohol does lower our inhibitions, over time the brain learns to compensate for this effect – but only in familiar drinking environments such as a pub or at home with friends.

In an environment such as the workplace, where people are normally sober and focused, the brain is not as tolerant and drinkers lose control of more inhibitions.

Tasting Report: Brugal Rums Complete Lineup – Blanco Especial to 1888

Brugal 1888 89x300 Tasting Report: Brugal Rums Complete Lineup   Blanco Especial to 1888The Dominican Republic’s Brugal continues its march into America — it’s the #1 selling rum in the Caribbean currently — with another offering, bringing its total portfolio to four rums and, for the most part, rounding out its offering with a complete lineup of rums from silver to extra-extra-old.

I sat down with maestro ronero Gustavo Ortega to take a deep dive into Brugal’s history and production — largely via his translator and brand manager Juan Campos — at Drinkhacker HQ. I’m on record as being a big Brugal fan — great quality at a very reasonable price — and after this guided tasting through the line, I’m happier than ever.

First some notes about the distillery: Brugal is actually owned by the Edrington Group, which owns Macallan and Highland Park Scotch, among other spirits. The focus is always on quality, and Brugal, like its other hemispherical friends, is obsessive about the wood it uses. Production is pretty huge: 75,000 liters daily, with 250,000 casks aging on site.

All of the rums covered below are blends of a rums from a variety of ages and are released at 80 proof in the U.S. — with slightly different proof levels in other countries. Here are thoughts on the full line.

Brugal Ron Blanco Especial – Brugal’s “white rum” is aged two years, then filtered back to white in the classic Puerto Rican (and other regional islands) style. In fact, by law, rum must be aged for at least one year before bottling in the Dominican Republic. This white rum is crisp and clean, with a light citrus character and a touch of vanilla on the finish. Not too oily, it’s got a good body and an easy, not-harsh finish. A- / $20

Brugal Ron Anejo Rum – Aged 2 to 5 years, we didn’t taste this expression during this event, since I just reviewed it, which you can read here. A- / $20

Brugal Extra Viejo Rum – I reviewed this rum, aged 3 to 8 years, in 2009. Now it is repackaged and rebranded, with a more upscale look, though it’s still very affordable. A sedate rum, it offers caramel, coffee, cinnamon, and lots of balance. It’s not cloyingly sugary, but perfectly set between sweet and savory. This batch could be a touch muted since my ’09 review, but it’s still an A / $27

Brugal 1888 Ron Gran Reserva Familiar (pictured) – The latest expression, released in August, is a real conversation piece. Rums aged for 6 to 8 years in ex-Bourbon casks (as all of the above are aged), are then transferred to ex-Sherry casks for another 2 to 6 years. To give you a sense of how pricey this must be in the Caribbean: After 8 years, Ortega says that just 30% of the original barrel is left in a cask, the rest having gone to the angel’s share due to the intense heat and humidity. With 1888, Brugal is losing up to 80 or 85% of its spirit to evaporation. What’s left is pretty insane for rum: Intense Sherry notes up front, with citrus peel all over the place. The body is huge — hotter than most Brugal rums, surprisingly, and complicated with charred wood notes, Sherry (of course), and herbal touches. The sweetness hits you mainly in the end. It’s a rum for the whiskey drinker — just, I presume, as Brugal’s owners would want. A- / $50

brugal.com.do

brugal rums with gustavo ortega Tasting Report: Brugal Rums Complete Lineup   Blanco Especial to 1888

Review: New Holland Knickerbocker Gin

This gin from Michigan’s New Holland Brewing boasts a dozen herbs and spices, but it’s the juniper and some orange peel that will hit you at the start and don’t let go til you reach for a glass of water to smooth it out. At 85 proof, it’s not particularly hot, but it comes across as pretty fiery: Perhaps it’s the “generous” amounts of juniper berries which New Holland refers to in its marketing that make it such a barnstormer. Long and lasting, things do open up with a little time in the glass, revealing some sweetness, black pepper, and a curious note of something akin to celery. Fine and good, but I expect most drinkers of Knickerbocker will use it with tonic or other tall drink mixers. Decent price and quality on the whole.

B / $25 / newhollandbrew.com

knickerbocker gin Review: New Holland Knickerbocker Gin

Review: Pur Spirits Pear Williams, Raspberry Vodka, and Bierbrand

Pür Spirits is based in a small village in Germany, so it makes sense that its artisinal liqueurs and other products, made from recipes handed down over the generations, are only just now making it to the U.S. At the present, the company offers six products for sale. We reviewed three. Notes follow.

Pur Spirits Pur Likor Williams – This Poire Williams is a classic expression of pear liqueur: The company says 35 pounds of pears go into every standard bottle. The flavor is authentic and expressive: Big pear character with that distinct crispness on the finish that distinguishes it from apples. A touch of astringency mars an otherwise moderate body, but on the whole this is as solid a pear liqueur as you’ll find on the market. 50 proof. A-

Pur Spirits Pur Geist Framboise Raspberry Flavored Vodka – A raspberry vodka, flavored with only wild raspberries, no sugar or syrups. Good raspberry flavor and the nose is spot-on, but as with many an unsweetened, flavored vodka, it’s got too much punch for drinking solo. The aftertaste is long and lasting, but the hard edge on the finish knocks it down a peg. 80 proof. B+

Pur Spirits Pur Likor Bierbrand – A spirit distilled from German marzen beer — aka malted barley — and aged in a cask made of chestnut wood. That makes this, essentially, a German rendition of single malt Scotch. The problem here is one of age. Based on the flavor profile, there really doesn’t seem to be any of it here, and traditional bierbrand actually isn’t aged at all. The light hand of wood doesn’t mellow out Pur’s version very much at all. There’s a slight vanilla tinge to the mid-palate, but the rest of the spirit, from start to finish, is largely rough-hewn white whiskey character. The funky aftertaste lingers and does not overly invite continued consumption. 84 proof. B-

each $39 / purspirits.com

Notes from Grappathon 2011

Grappa, something of a national spirit in Italy, doesn’t have to come from the famous country. Anyone can make the stuff — and, arguably, it’s far easier for a grape-grower in, say, Virginia, to produce good grappa than good wine.

Recently I gathered with friends to sample and compare a host of grappas from all around our fair country, along with a few Old World ones, too. This wasn’t a formal review — and I’m not grading the spirits discussed here — mainly because you’ll probably never see any of these in the wild.

Our adventure covered the following territories:

Brandy Peaks — Oregon Marc Brandy Muscat

Brandy Peaks — Grappa

Amalgamated Distilling — Vita di Saint Louis, Blanca (OH)

Amalgamated Distilling — Vita di Saint Louis, Giallo

Flag Hill Winery and Distillery — Graham’s Grappa (NH)

Peach Street Distillers — Muscat Grappa (CO)

Peach Street Distillers — Viognier Grappa

Forks of Cheat Winery — West Virginia Grappa

Stillwater Spirits — Cole Ranch, Cabernet Sauvignon Grappa (CA)

…plus a pair of Italian grappas

Favorites? Stillwater’s Cabernet Grappa was traditional in the nose — with olive pit and nut aromas — but proved complex, with a burnt caramel saltiness and sweetness on the tongue. Fans of traditional Italian grappa will likely enjoy this one.

Peach Street’s Viognier grappa was also a winner, fruity with apple notes and a fun chocolate finish; oddly, the Muscat grappa from the same distiller was too overpowering with citrus notes and an astringent body.

Still, nothing really compared to La Grappa di Pino Zardetto, a grappa made from Prosecco, vibrant with aromatics, honey, flower, and fruits, but all perfectly balanced. It’s a grappa for the both the grappa novice and the pro, and a winning example of how great good grappa can be.

What of the rest? As with all sorts of spirits, these grappas occupied a range between passable to awful, the worst coming off like nail polish remover and the better ones offering some nuance, but often drifting back into grappa’s old habits: fuel overtones and overpowering earth character.

All told? A really informative tasting that proved to me that you don’t have to be Italian to make good grappa… but it certainly doesn’t hurt.

grappathon Notes from Grappathon 2011

Jagermeister Cocktails for Metalheads

Next week, the “Big Four” of Metal (Metallica, Slayer, Anthrax, and Megadeth) play Yankee Stadium. Our buddies at Jagermeister (with help from mixologists Fred Dexheimer and Todd Richman) whipped up these cocktails in their honor, all featuring that devilish herbal liqueur. They were too amusing not to post here. I’d post pictures but I am sure they are all pretty much jet black.

(By the way my first ever original recipe — invented in college, of course — was a Jager shooter with 151 and Raspberry Liqueur called the Warhammer (equal parts, ice cold). It will kill all of these!)

Angel of Death – Slayer

1.5oz Old Overholt Rye
1oz Jägermeister
1oz Averna
3 dashes Jerry Thomas Decanter Bitters
Brandied Cherries

Build, stir with ice and garnish with a cherry.

Reign in Blood – Slayer

2oz Jägermeister
.75oz Beefeater 24 Gin
.5oz Raspberry Simple Syrup
.5oz Iced Tea

Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass. Add Ice and Stir. Strain into a Double Old Fashioned Glass. Lemon Twist for garnish.

Bring The Noise – Anthrax

1.5oz Jägermeister
1.5oz Grapefruit Juice
.5oz Don Q Anejo rum
.5oz Velvet Falernum

Combine all ingredients with Ice. Shake and strain into a tall glass.

Devil’s Island – Megadeth

1.5oz Don Q Anejo Rum
1oz Jägermeister
.5oz Velvet Falernum
1oz Fresh Orange Juice
1oz Pineapple Juice
2 dashes angostura bitters

Combine all ingredients in a tall glass, swizzle with crushed ice. Add more crushed ice and float with Jägermeister on top. Garnish with a pineapple leaf.

Five Magics – Megadeth

1oz Jägermeister
1oz Plymouth Gin
1oz Gekkeikan Plum Sake
.5oz Fresh Orange Juice

Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a glass with ice. Top with Ginger Beer and a piece of crystallized ginger.

Anarchy in the UK – Megadeth

1.5oz Jägermeister
1.5oz Plymouth Gin
1oz unsweetened iced tea
1 sugar cube
3 lemon slices

Muddle the lemon and sugar, add the iced tea and spirits and add ice. Stir and garnish with a lemon wheel. 

Metal Thrashing Mad – Anthrax

1.5oz Jägermeister
.5oz Appleton Estate Reserve
.5oz Domaine de Canton
.5oz Fresh Lime Juice
.5oz Fresh Orange Juice
.5oz Pineapple Juice
.5oz Raspberry Simple Syrup

Dry Shake and pour over crushed ice in a tall glass. Garnish with a mint leaf and float 2 barspoons of Jägermeister over the top.

Armed and Dangerous – Anthrax

1oz Rye
1oz Jägermeister

In an rocks glass, add the spirits, add the ice and top with Cola. Garnish with a lime.

Fade to Black – Metallica

In a mixing glass with ice stir the following:

1.5oz of Jägermeister
.5oz of Green Chartreuse

Pour into a shot glass.

Trapped Under Ice – Metallica

1.5oz Plymouth Gin
1oz Jägermeister

Top with Fever Tree Tonic and a Lime Wedge.

Master of Puppets - Metallica

1oz Rye
1oz Jägermeister
1 tsp Demarara syrup
2 dashes Jerry Thomas Bitters
Lemon Twist

Build, stir with ice, strain into cocktail glass serve with Lemon Twist.

Review: Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Bourbon Round Two

I won’t try to explain it again: If you missed the explanation of Buffalo Trace’s Single Oak Project the first time, you can catch up on this ambitious program spanning 192 single barrel Bourbons here. In round one, Buffalo Trace offered a dozen unique single barrel recipes for customers to consider. Now it’s back with its second collection, 12 more bottles of varying construct — and, surprisingly, I found I liked this round, on the whole, better than the first.

Each whiskey is 90 proof again — and you can visit singleoakproject.com to offer up your own thoughts and compare notes with your compatriots.

For this round, all whiskies were stored in the same type of warehouse (concrete), their barrels were from the top half of the tree, seasoning was the same (12), and entry proof was identical (105 proof). What varied: rye vs. wheat recipe, wood grain size on the barrel (tight/average/coarse), barrel char (#3 vs. #4), and tree harvest location (two different sites: A and B, though I don’t have specifics on how the sites varied).

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #29 – Big, “old Bourbon” character. Good balance of wood and spice notes, and a touch of citrus on the finish. A- (rye, tight wood grain, #3 char, harvest location A)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #31 – Slightly more tannin here, but the finish is a bit sweeter, too. Less nuance, but really easy-drinking. For sure it’s another winner. A- (rye, tight wood grain, #3 char, harvest location A)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #61 – Harder edged, with more citrus character — maybe a touch of orange peel. Tougher on the finish, but still a credible Bourbon. B (wheat, tight wood grain, #3 char, harvest location A)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #63 – Big and spicy, and frontier style whiskey at heart. Vanilla is the dominant character, which rounds out the finish. B+ (wheat, tight wood grain, #4 char, harvest location A)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #93 – Hard and tough, spicy and herbal, with a rocky finish. The finale is lasting and grows more and more tannic as it goes on. Out of balance. B- (rye, average wood grain, #3 char, harvest location A)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #95 – Similarly burly to #93, but slightly softer. Unlike its kid sister, it eases up on the finish, leaving you with sweetness instead of throat-choking tannin — amazing what a slightly longer char can do. B+ (rye, average wood grain, #4 char, harvest location A)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #125 – Another huge whiskey, and one a bit lacking in secondary character. Although I know it’s got the same age on it as the rest, it feels young and a little undercooked. B (wheat, average wood grain, #3 char, harvest location B)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #127 - Unsurprising, a straightforward Bourbon with a straightforward caramel character. Short finish. B (wheat, average wood grain, #4 char, harvest location B)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #157 – Not much to it, just a moderate whiskey with a medium body, mild finish. Caramel and wood notes, but mild. B (rye, coarse wood grain, #3 char, harvest location B)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #159 – Finally, a Bourbon that gets me going. Savory and sweet working together, with caramel and vanilla very strong, but balanced by a modest woodiness. Just about everything I want in a glass from a young whiskey. A (rye, coarse wood grain, #4 char, harvest location B)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #189 – Spicier, with fun caramel apple, banana, and character. I like this a lot. The finish makes me think of a nut-infused banana split. A (wheat, coarse wood grain, #3 char, harvest location B)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #191 – Very similar to 189, maybe a touch harder on the finish. Lovely, though. A- (wheat, coarse  wood grain, #4 char, harvest location B)

$46 each (375ml bottle) / singleoakproject.com