Monthly Archives: September 2011

Reivew: 2006 Kaesler Grenache “The Fave” Barossa Valley

Posted on September 30, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

One sip and this Aussie Grenache will just about knock you down. At 16 percent alcohol, it’s a bruiser amongst bruisers and a wine that isn’t likely to win any awards in a nuance contest.

That said, it’s really full of flavor: Jammy, as you’d expect, but surprisingly lush with rich plum and cherry fruit, flecked with light spice notes — cinnamon and dusty charcoal character. If you can get through the brazen booziness of it, this is a fun wine (and not just because of the effect it has)… and a surprisingly food-friendly one.

B+ / $30 / [BUY KAESLER "THE FAVE" HERE]

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Posted in Rated B+, Reviews, Wine

Review: Henry McKenna Single Barrel Bourbon

Posted on September 29, 2011 by Christopher Null| 2 Comments

Henry McKenna is a value-priced Bourbon from Heaven Hill with serious street cred: Single barrel and bottled in bond (100 proof), it’s aged 10 years and sold to retailers, who pick out their own barrels and sell them direct. This is common with many distilleries, but not at these prices.

This McKenna is the 9th barrel from Oakland’s Ledger’s Liquor (Barrel 662 from the distillery). It’s a big winner: Scorching hot and dense with spicy rye character, demanding a healthy splash of water to coax out its charms. When you do, they are abundant: Caramel and vanilla in harmony with classic rye charms, with a finish that offers both a cinnamon punch and a soothing sweetness to take you out. It begs for repeat sips and, should you polish off the bottle, well, another one is barely 20 bucks away.

Remember: As with any single barrel spirit, bottles may vary widely.

A- / $24 / heaven-hill.com

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Posted in Bourbon, Rated A-, Reviews, Whiskey

Review: Haras Wines

Posted on September 28, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Haras de Pirque, or just “Haras,” hails from Chile’s Maipo Valley, where it produces a series of very affordable wines, inspired by the winery’s love of horses.

Tasted twice. The first round of wines were clearly damaged by heat in shipping.

2010 Haras Sauvignon Blanc Maipo Valley – Tropical nose, with a touch of lemon character. Slight vegetal finish, but otherwise quite drinkable, particularly at this price. B / $10

2010 Haras Chardonnay Maipo Valley – Simple and inoffensive, with a mild body compared to most Chilean Chardonnays. A bit buttery, and a bit of lemon, but not a lot of nuance or, surprisingly, fruit character beyond that. B / $12

2009 Haras Carmenere Maipo Valley – A big licorice thing, funky on the nose with raisin and prune notes. Incredibly over-jammy, with some black pepper, but not really in balance. C- / $12

2008 Haras Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley - Similar character, but with a slightly better balance than the Carmenere. Just too much fruit.C / $12

2007 Haras Character Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenere Maipo Valley (pictured) – A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Carmenere, 10% Syrah, and 13% Cabernet Franc. Easily the best red in this crowd, but still intense with prune and cooked fruit character. Mildly better balance than either of the prior two wines, but still has room for improvement. C+ / $20

harasdepirque.com

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Posted in Rated B, Rated C, Rated C+, Rated C-, Reviews, Wine

Review: Hiram Walker Caramel Apple Liqueur

Posted on September 27, 2011 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

Oddball combo spirits week continues here at Drinkhacker with what sounds like a natural one: Caramel Apple Liqueur. Hey, if nothing else you can at least be absolutely certain that this is one spirit that contains caramel color.

A light and minimalist liqueur, this is a relatively mild concoction that is more reminiscent of the various honey-flavored whiskeys than anything else. The nose is more caramel than apple, sweet but not cloying, and flavorful in that cheap-bulk-caramels-you’d-get-for-Halloween way.

On the tongue, a mix of both are evident: The apples are a bit on the candied side — more kids’ apple juice than fresh, tart Braeburn — but authentic enough. Maybe a touch of cinnamon in there, too. For what it’s worth, all the flavors are natural.

Overall: Fine, totally what you would expect, and perfectly fair.

30 proof.

B / $11 / hiramwalker.com

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Posted in Liqueurs, Rated B, Reviews

Review: Stoli Chocolat Razberi Vodka

Posted on September 26, 2011 by Christopher Null| 2 Comments

What do you do when you run out of flavors for your vodka? Start making combinations. Stolichnaya, which makes a Razberi vodka now but not a Chocolat, combines the two flavors, long considered natural buddies in the dessert world, into a single mega-vodka.

Stoli’s intentions here aren’t tough to fathom: The gooey, chocolate-dripping raspberry on the bottle let you know what you’re in for. Sure enough, the aromas of raspberry and especially chocolate fill the room when you pour it into a glass. Then, on the tongue, it works about as expected: Both flavors are natural, authentic, and balanced with enough moderate sweetness to make this friendly enough to sip. The alcohol level — 75 proof — is the only challenge. It has real bite in the finish, reminding you that, yes, you’re sipping Stoli in the end.

Though I’m not entirely sure what I’d do with this Latvian liquor — though obviously it would have a home on the after-dinner cart — it certainly seems well-crafted.

A- / $25 / stoli.com

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Posted in Flavored Vodka, Rated A-, Reviews, Vodka

Review: Cruzan Coconut Rum

Posted on September 25, 2011 by Christopher Null| 2 Comments

Coconut continues to be a vital flavoring agent in all manner of spirits (we’ve got coconut vodka coming later in the week for you), and our friends at St. Croix’s Cruzan sent us their rendition of the classic coconut rum. They even put their money where their mouths are: Sending a mini of Bacardi Rock Coconut for comparative purposes.

Results? For starters, Cruzan Coconut is only 42 proof, so I watered the 70-proof Bacardi down appropriately. If you’re looking for (natural) coconut flavor, Cruzan categorically has it. It’s overloaded with the stuff, and it’s also packed with sugar. It’s not the lack of tropical flavor that undoes this spirit, it’s all that sugar: Imbued with the stuff to the point of being cloying. You can almost taste a chalky texture in the body — whether that’s from coconut or sugar, I don’t know, but the effect is daunting. In comparison to the Bacardi though, I still preferred the Cruzan: Its flavor is simply bigger and more authentic.

I also tried Cruzan Coconut against, of course, the gold standard of coconut rums, Malibu. Also 42 proof, Malibu is, clearly the superior spirit, balanced in coconut and sweetness, not cloying, and actually well enough made that it can be consumed solo — unlike almost every other flavored spirit known to man. Sad to say it, but you don’t seem to need native coconuts nor sugarcane to get the job done — that’s right, best coconut rum going today is made in Canada.

B+ / $13 / cruzanrum.com

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Posted in Flavored Rum, Rated B+, Reviews, Rum

Review: Redemption Rye and High-Rye Bourbon

Posted on September 24, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Distilled in Indiana and bottled in Bardstown, Kentucky, Redemption is part of a growing cadre of craft distillers who go guerrilla on getting their stuff produced (a la Angel’s Envy), releasing amazingly high-quality product at very affordable prices. At Redemption, the focus is obviously on increasingly popular rye.

Redemption Rye – 95% rye, youch! This is an unconventional and very odd-tasting rye, shockingly sweet and filled with Christmas spice character. Minty, almost menthol on the nose. The body is lighter than I’d like and the finish is on the strange side — reminiscent of a younger corn-based whiskey. Perhaps it’s just too young? (Less than 4 years old, per the age statement on the back.) Probably better as a mixer. 92 proof. Aka tan label. Batch 027, bottle 915 reviewed. B / $28

Redemption High-Rye Bourbon – I’d estimate most Bourbons are in the 10% rye region. Redemption’s is 38.2% rye, 1.8% malted barley, and 60% corn. (Bourbon by law must be 51% corn, so that is indeed a lot of rye.) Though it’s conceivable younger (aged “over 2 years,” per the age statement) it’s a darker spirit and a more successful, better-balanced whiskey. Great flavors of caramel and vanilla are complemented by rich spiciness — all those sweet holiday notes are mellowed out with a big, silky, lightly tannic body. A much greater success for straight-up tippling. 92 proof. Aka red label. Batch 010, bottle 3340 reviewed. A- / $27

redemptionrye.com

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Posted in Bourbon, Rated A-, Rated B, Reviews, Rye, Whiskey

Tasting Report: Family Winemakers of California 2011

Posted on September 23, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Family Winemakers of California, while not quite as daunting as I’ve seen it in prior years, remains a monstrous wine exhibition: It’s been called the largest show of its kind in the country — and with 300 wineries pouring this year, if that’s not still true today, it’s awfully close.

I did my research in advance and sullied out lots of great finds this year, but none was as impressive as a winery I’d not heard of before: Dragonette Cellars, whose easy Pinot was crushed by a pair of near-perfect Syrahs.

For more gems, check out my complete (if limited) tasting notes below.

Tasting Report: 2011 Family Winemakers of California

2009 Paloma Merlot / B+ / tannic for a merlot

2008 Ramey Syrah Sonoma Coast / B /

2008 Ramey Claret / A- / balanced, quite nice

2007 Ramey Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley / A- / jammy, softened out

2008 Saxon Brown Pinot Noir Parmalee-Hill / A- / solid, needs time

2008 Saxon Brown Pinot Noir Durrell Vineyard Hayfield Block / B+ / odd finish

2007 Saxon Brown Syrah Parmalee-Hill Owl Box Block / C+ / really odd finish, not a fan

2007 Saxon Brown Syrah Flora Ranch / B- /

2008 Patel Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / young style, mint and citrus notes

2008 Patland Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Stagecoach Vineyard / A- / young, easygoing

2008 Patland Syrah Napa Valley Stagecoach Vineyard / A- /

2009 Melville Pinot Noir Santa Rita / A- / bright

2010 Melville Pinot Noir Estate / A- / mildy herbal

2008 Macauley Cabernet Sauvignon / A- /

2008 Beau Vigne Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley / A / deep, port-like character, amazing body, long finish

2008 Cavus Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / big jam bomb, textbook Cal cab

2008 Caliza Companion / B+ / Cab/Syrah/Tempranillo blend, interesting combo

2008 Caliza Azimuth / A- / syrah/mourvedre/grenache blend, nicely smoky body

2008 Caliza Syrah / B+ / more minerals and leather here

2008 Carter Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Coliseum Block / B+ / slight tightness

2008 Carter Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Revilo Vineyard / A- / brighter in style

2009 Carter Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Beckstoffer To Kalon / A / already showing well

2008 Carter Petite Sirah / B / finish too tart

2007 Hartwell Cabernet Sauvignon Miste Hill / A- / bit on the sweet side

2008 Guarache Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / good balance, fruity, light tannins

2009 Guarache Pinot Noir / A / lush and rich, very nice

2008 Dragonette MJM Syrah / A+ / amazing richness, cocoa, plum and pepper

2008 Dragonette Syrah / A+ / very similar to MJM at 60% the cost

2009 Dragonette Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard / A- / easygoing Pinot

2007 Delectus Cabernet Franc / A- / stellar Cab Franc

2008 Delectus Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley / B / thin

2006 Delectus Petite Sirah Spring Mountain / B / long finish, fruity

2008 Delectus Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley / B- / young, too young

2008 Delectus Cuvee Julia / A- / complex, good richness

2007 Bacio Divino Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / big cherry cabernet, plums and raisins

2007 B Cellars Blend 24 / B / young stuff, needs time

2008 B Cellars Synergy Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / solid, great balance right now

2009 Benovia Chardonnay Russian River Valley La Pommeraie / B+ / bright

2007 Andrew Geoffrey Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / easy, good balance

2007 Ladera Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley / A / lush, accessible

2007 Ladera Cabernet Sauvignon Lone Canyon / A- / big tight

2007 Ladera Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain / A- / deep and rich

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Posted in Reviews, Wine

Recipes: Autumn Cocktails from Grey Goose

Posted on September 23, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Some interesting-sounding seasonal concoctions in this list, courtesy of our friends at Grey Goose Vodka and mixologist Nick Mautone. Ah, fall!

Grey Goose Balsamique

1 1/2 parts Grey Goose Vodka
3/4 part Crème Yvette
1/4 part balsamic vinegar
1 part pomegranate juice
3/4 part agave nectar
1 to 2 parts seltzer water

In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, add first five ingredients. Shake vigorously until the outside of the shaker is frosted and beaded with sweat. Strain into a highball glass filled with fresh ice. Top with seltzer and garnish with a fresh orange slice.

Grey Goose L’Orange Autumn Sage

1 1/4 parts Grey Goose Le Citron Flavored Vodka
1/2 part Green Chartreuse
2 one-inch pieces of fennel, diced
3 sage leaves
3/4 part agave nectar
1 part lemon juice
2 parts seltzer water

In a cocktail shaker, place the fennel, sage and agave nectar, muddle well. Add ice and the remaining ingredients and shake vigorously until the outside of the shaker is frosted and beaded with sweat. Strain into a glass filled with fresh ice and garnish with fennel fronds.

Grey Goose La Poire Golden Harvest

1 1/2 parts Grey Goose La Poire Flavored Vodka
1/2 part St. Germain Elderflower Cordial
1 part lemon juice
1/2 ounce agave nectar
1 tablespoon freshly shucked or leftover roasted corn

In a cocktail shaker, place the corn and agave nectar, muddle well. Add ice and the remaining ingredients and shake vigorously until the outside of the shaker is frosted and beaded with sweat. Strain into a martini glass and garnish with freshly grated nutmeg and chili powder.

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Posted in Flavored Vodka, Recipes, Vodka

Review: 2010 Budget White Wines from McManis

Posted on September 22, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

McManis Family Vineyards is a budget outfit with vast vineyard holdings in inland California. A step above ultra-cheap wines, McManis aims to offer quality while keeping prices as low as possible. We sampled three whites from the 2010 vintage, with generally acceptable results.

2010 McManis Pinot Grigio California – Extremely tart but overall fairly pleasant. Intense lemon/lime notes. A bit sour on the finish, and better on its own than with food. B / $11

2010 McManis Chardonnay River Junction California – Simplistic, with overly buttery texture and that meat-like finish that mars so many inexpensive Chardonnays. A touch of peaches and lemons somewhere in the mix. Hints of cinnamon on the finish. Basically drinkable. C+ / $11

2010 McManis Viognier California – I love Viognier, but this might as well be Chardonnay, it’s so lacking the peach/apricot character that solid Viognier should have. That said, the more balanced body actually makes it an improvement on the Chardonnay. A good Viognier if you’re not usually a fan of this style. B- / $12

mcmanisfamilyvineyards.com