Monthly Archives: August 2011

Review: Mount Gay Rum Eclipse Black

Barbados’s Mount Gay is rounding out its “Eclipse” rum collection — currently comprising a Silver and a medium-bodied gold rum — with Eclipse Black, a darker, bolder version of its classic aged rum.

The rum is a blend of single- and double-distilled rums aged from two to seven years. The final blend is then aged in new charred American oak casks and bottled at 100 proof.

I like this a lot. It’s got a big, authentic, sweet rum flavor, and it’s surprisingly smooth on the palate. Nothing unexpected: Rich molasses character, brown sugar, and a lasting finish. There’s some mint and light chocolate character in there, but it’s basically drowned by the big, deep dark rum sweetness. That’s not a bad thing, since the primary notes are so impressive. Be warned: The hefty proof level is a little dangerous for a rum this smooth. Travel with care.

A- / $25 / mountgayrum.com

mount gay rum eclipse black Review: Mount Gay Rum Eclipse Black

The World’s 10 Strangest Spirits

It starts with Cynar, and takes a trip through Bakon, but really, this top 10 list of oddball alcoholic items at The Daily Meal had me at smoked salmon vodka.

 

Review: Caorunn Gin

Gin season continues here, with a true oddity: The only gin distilled in Scotland. [UPDATE: Errrr, so is Hendrick's. Sorry about that, folks.]

Scotland, the legendary home of malt whisky, is hardly a land known for gin, which must be seen as a bit of a girly drink for the pansies who live on the southern part of the island. So leave it to the Scots to do something a bit different: Triple distilled from grain and infused with rowan berry, bog myrtle, heather, Coul blush apple, and dandelion leaf (in addition to six traditional botanicals, juniper, coriander, orange and lemon peel, angelica, and cassia), it’s an odd duck from the start — and something fitting of this often harsh, wind-swept land.

Despite all the crazy-sounding aromatics, Caorunn (pronounced ka-roon) is a very pleasant and largely traditional gin. Juniper is quite evident, with citrus notes close behind. All that bog myrtle and dandelion seems to do something, altogether lending a fun vanilla note to the finish, but otherwise Caorunn keeps its clogs firmly planted in the London dry style of ginmaking, just a bit eased off on the juniper pedal and throttled a touch more toward the sweet side.

It’s a gin that’s hard not to like but doesn’t offer quite enough nuance or uniqueness to love.

83.6 proof.

B+ / $35 / caorunngin.com

Caorunn Gin Review: Caorunn Gin

Book Review: Bourbon: The Evolution of Kentucky Whiskey

bourbon evolution of kentucky whiskey Book Review: Bourbon: The Evolution of Kentucky WhiskeyThose expecting a sun-dappled romp through the state of Kentucky in Sam K. Cecil’s Bourbon: The Evolution of Kentucky Whiskey we be in for a bit of a surprise. Cecil, who got started in the Bourbon industry four years after Prohibition ended in 1933, has written a tome which dutifully outlines how Bourbon is made, how Prohibition impacted its production, and how the industry never really recovered thereafter, losing out to international brands and distilleries that had long since fallen into disrepair or were simply torn down.

But that is just the setting of the scene. Cecil is actually much more concerned not with the how of whiskeymaking but with the where and the who. After 80-some pages of background, Cecil spends the next 200 digesting just about every distillery that has every existed in the state of Kentucky, where it was located, what it was (variously) called, and which hands of ownership it passed through. Some distilleries are given just a paragraph, while more hallowed facilities, like E.H. Taylor (now known as Buffalo Trace), get several pages.

Faithfully indexed, chances are if you’re looking for information about your favorite tipple you’ll find it covered in Cecil’s book – although the book is focused on distilleries instead of brands. It’s an important distinction: If you want to find, say, Bulleitt, Black Maple Hill, or Noah’s Mill, you won’t find them covered in these pages.

If you’re looking for a reference book of Bourbons – especially old and/or defunct ones – this is a good place to start, though the writing is a bit dry and its simple utility, in the modern era, is muted.

B / $15 / [BUY IT HERE]

Review: Hard Luck Candy Flavored Vodkas

Hard Luck Candy, from Michigan (Temperance, Michigan, actually!), doesn’t mess around with typical lemon, orange, or even coconut vodkas: It goes straight for the jugular, with four candy-inspired concoctions. All are 70 proof, distilled from grain, and, rest assured, give you more than your daily allowance of artificial coloring. Warning: These are all very sweet vodkas, designed for shots, dessert drinks, and frat parties. They are reviewed here not as substitutes for a post-tasting-menu digestif, but with their intended audience in mind.

Hard Luck Candy Orange Dream Vodka – Flavored with orange and vanilla, much like a Creamsicle. That’s a perfect descriptor for this infused spirit, and Hard Luck Candy hits it right on the nose, all the way down to the creamy, mouth-filling body. Easygoing and smooth. A-

Hard Luck Candy Lemon Drop Vodka – I spoke too soon: There is a lemon vodka, lemon drop, rather. Hard Luck gets the sourness just about right, but the antifreeze green/yellow color is off-putting and scary. Quite a harsh finish on this one, too. B-

Hard Luck Candy Red Fish Vodka – Just what you’re thinking, a shocking-red spirit that would taste a lot like cough syrup if it wasn’t so amazingly sweet. Again, an uncanny resemblance to Swedish Fish, but the nose is on the hard side. B

Hard Luck Candy Root Beer Barrel Vodka – Overwhelming root beer soda character on the nose and the tongue. Smooth and authentic, with cinnamon, licorice, and lots of sugar. Surprisingly smooth. I expect fans of actual root beer will be bowled over by this one (though I’m not the world’s biggest root beer fanatic). B+

about $20 each / hardluckvodkamichigan.com

hard luck candy vodka Review: Hard Luck Candy Flavored Vodkas

Review: Just Chill Natural Stress Relief Beverage

Will “one sip” of this “relaxation beverage” give you “instant enlightenment?” Perhaps not, but it certainly won’t hurt.

The ingredients of Just Chill should be largely familiar to readers who’ve explored this nascent category: The ubiquitous L-theanine (150mg per 8.4 oz. can), vitamins B and C, magnesium, zinc, Siberian ginseng, ginkgo biloba, and (perhaps the only unusual additive) lemongrass. It’s all delivered in a “tropical chill” flavored can of carbonated water, “crystalline fructose,” natural flavors, fruit juices, and stevia.

The taste is very mild and innocuous: vaguely pineapple and mango character atop a lightly carbonated base. It goes down just fine, a stark contrast to some of the less savory entrants into this category, and it lacks that viscous character that seems to be so common in fructose-flavored beverages.

As always, it’s hard to speak to the promised psychoactive effects — relaxation without drowsiness, in this case — of Just Chill on a limited sampling, but it certainly hasn’t hurt my mood any, and I’m hardly feeling tired. As always, your mileage will likely vary.

50 calories.

B+ / $2 per 8.4 oz. can / drinkjustchill.com [BUY IT HERE]

just chill Review: Just Chill Natural Stress Relief Beverage

Review: Drambuie 15 Liqueur

The original whiskey liqueur is as unmistakable as it is classic: Drambuie may not be a spirit for all tastes, but, like Galliano or Campari, it’s a staple you can’t help but admire, if for no other reason than sheer longevity.

Now Drambuie is launching a line extension — not its first, but the first I’ve ever seen — Drambuie 15, created with higher-end Scotch, namely 15-year-old Speyside malts, along with the usual honey and herbs to sweeten up the liqueur.

Darker than standard Drambuie, Drambuie 15 is immediately obvious as something different: The nose of regular Drambuie is cloyingly sweet. Drambuie 15 is much closer to a quality Scotch whisky. Just a hint of sweetness in there, really night and day compared to its big brother.

On the palate: Beautiful. Malty and rich, the Scotch base shines with nougat, citrus, and light honey notes. Sweet, for sure: It’s light and sugary on the finish, but the overall effect is one of a sweetened Scotch, rather, as is the case with original Drambuie, Scotch-flavored sugar.

What Drambuie has created here is actually a perfect Rusty Nail cocktail, prebottled and ready to go. At 86 proof it is dangerous and misleading — on the palate, the touch of sweetness masks the alcohol completely — so tread lightly.

The bottom line: I’d turn to Drambuie 15 in a heartbeat when your sweet tooth calls for it. Easily it’s one of my favorite whiskey liqueurs on the market now. Watch for it on store shelves soon.

A / $56 (one liter) / drambuie.com

Drambuie 15 Review: Drambuie 15 Liqueur

Book Review: The Punch Bowl: 75 Recipes Spanning Four Centuries of Wanton Revelry

the punch bowl 221x300 Book Review: The Punch Bowl: 75 Recipes Spanning Four Centuries of Wanton RevelryI am a relative recent, but confirmed, convert to the serving of punch in a party setting. It is always a crowd-pleaser, there are plenty of tasty things you can do with it, and it makes bar service infinitely easier. Serving 20 or 30 at a time just can’t be accomplished any other way.

The trouble with punch is finding a good recipe. Punch hasn’t been fashionable for, oh, 60 or so years, and many punch recipes you’ll find today tend to involve gills of this and drams of that… the this and that not normally being something you’d actually want to consume.

Praise be then to Dan Searing, who has dredged up 75 punch recipes – both classic and modern – and compiled them into one lively, full-color, high-quality book, The Punch Bowl. Searing seems to love punch more than any normal man should, offering a detailed history of the flowing bowl (primarily a sailor’s drink before it entered high society) before launching into a well-curated selection of punches based on a variety of liquids – Champagne, rum, brandy, whiskey, even milk and tea. Who knew?

The real test of any cookbook is whether you’d actually want to create the recipes it offers, and sure enough Searing offers a surfeit of punches that will have to do battle when it comes time to pick a drink for my annual holiday party. While my tastes are running toward some of the tiki-themed punches on offer here, now I know what a couple of green tea bags can do to these wonderful concoctions.

A / $10 / [BUY IT HERE]

Review: Lark Single Malt Australian Whisky

Folks are making whiskey all over the world, even in far-flung places like Tasmania, Australia, where Lark Whiskey hails from.

The company makes a variety of spirits but the highlights are three single cask, single malt whiskeys produced in the Scottish style of Islay, with local barley and, yes, Tasmanian peat over which it is dried. Local yeasts and water are used in the bottlings, which do not carry age statements but which are typically aged for three to five years in barrel.

We got to try all three members of the lineup. They’re all available in the U.S., but you’ll have to hunt pretty hard to find them.

Lark Single Malt Whisky – Cask #648, 86 proof – Big malty grain notes reminiscent of white whiskey on the nose, and more on the palate. Young and fresh, it comes across with bread character, then fades to citrus — orange and lemon. The finish is on the short side, with a bit of alcoholic burn in an otherwise smooth spirit. B-

Lark Distiller’s Strength Whisky – Cask #659, 92 proof – Nuttier on the nose, with more orange and orange peel notes. Still has that youthful spirit, bread, yeast, and malt, but it’s more subdued and better balanced here. Surprisingly, though it’s a hotter whiskey, this one has considerably less bite to it and a more lasting, pleasant finish that offers sweetness and some nougat character. B+

Lark Cask Strength Whisky – Cask #659, 116 proof – Same cask as the Distiller’s Strength (unless that’s a misprint), but uncut from cask strength. Fiery, but flavorful. More wood character here, but the alcohol gets in the way of some of the Distiller’s Strength version’s charms. It’s still got spunk, though, with those nut and citrus notes coming on in the finish, but it ultimately feels a bit more simplistic as a spirit than the more nuanced Distiller’s Strength. B

typically $100 to $150 each / larkdistillery.com.au

Review: Pisa Nut Liqueur

Kudos to Pisa for the unique — if obvious — bottle design here: The Italian nut-flavored liqueur’s decanter needs absolutely no introduction.

A member of the Amaretto/Frangelico family, Pisa is unique in that it’s flavored with three different nuts: hazelnut, almond, and pistachio. And Pisa really does, surprisingly, have elements of all three. I’d say it’s the almond/Amaretto character that’s the strongest, followed by the pistachio (done quite well on its own in Dumante liqueur). Pisa also offers a moderate orange peel character, which is a bit at odds with the viscous, oily body.

Ultimately its authentic flavors make Pisa a qualified success, but it’s a little complex for cocktailing as well as a tad too syrupy for drinking on its own.

48 proof.

B+ / $24 / liquorepisa.com

pisa liqueur Review: Pisa Nut Liqueur