Monthly Archives: August 2011

Review: Samogon Russian Grappa

Posted on August 31, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Yeah, you read that right: Grappa from Russia.

Samogon is actually the Russian term for moonshine, so using it as a brand name is a little confusing. Samogon, from Phenix Brands, is also not really moonshine (in Russia, it’s typically a sugar-based spirit), but rather a grappa, made from grape stems and seeds left over from the winemaking process.

It’s unclear what grape varietal is used in the making of Samogon, but as grappa goes, this is pretty straightforward stuff. The nose is filled with fuel-like characteristics, an astringency common with simpler grappas. The palate is about the same: Tough as nails and heavy on the funk. There’s not a lot of nuance in Samogon, which perhaps explains how they came up with the name: In a world of ultra-smooth premium vodkas, Samogon tries to go the other way. For those of you who like a lot of character in your liquor, well, you found it — for better or worse.

B- / x / phenixspirits.co

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Posted in Brandy, Grappa, Rated B-, Reviews

Recipe: Herradura Smoked Peach Iced Tea

Posted on August 31, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Our pals at Herradura Tequila sent in this delicious-sounding recipe in honor of the end of summer. Get to your local farmer’s market: Peaches are tasting great right now.

Herradura Smoked Peach Iced Tea

1 ½ oz Herradura Reposado
½ oz Lemon Juice
1 ½ oz Peach Juice
1 ½ oz Earl Grey tea
¼ oz Simple Syrup
¼ oz Mezcal
1 Lemon Twist for garnish
1 Peach Slice for garnish

Fill a highball with good quality cubed ice. Add all ingredients and stir thoroughly with a bar spoon. Garnish with a long lemon twist and/or a peach slice.

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Posted in Recipes, Tequila

Review: Ambhar Tequila

Posted on August 30, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

A name like Ambhar makes me think more of my local tandoori shack than a line of tequilas, but such is life… and such is the booze business. The company behind Ambhar says the name refers to an ancient goddess of the same moniker, but all I can find online when googling “Ambhar” are searches in Las Vegas for a bikini-clad “tequila goddess” to represent the brand.

All of these tequilas are 100% blue agave, bottled at 80 proof. Bottles are hand-bottled and individually numbered. All are 80 proof. All of those reviewed below are from batch #1.

Ambhar Platinum Tequila – This plata/silver tequila is exceptionally clean, and while it offers a smooth and rich agave character, it’s got more of a citrus, lime, and almost tropical character to it. Ambhar calls the nose floral, I’d suggest they’re a bit more perfumy than flowery. A very delicate spirit and quite delicious. A- / $50

Ambhar Reposado Tequila – Aged in oak for just under a year, this pale yellow spirit is easygoing but offers a strong wood punch, which mutes a lot of the nuance of the Platinum, replacing it with oak chips and some brown sugar notes. It’s a fun and lively tequila, but it’s not as intriguing as the Platinum. B+ / $55

Ambhar Anejo Tequila – Aged over two years in Bourbon barrels, giving this Anejo a whiskey-brown color and a deep, cocoa-inflected flavor to it. The agave is, surprisingly, stronger in the Anejo than in the Reposado, and it’s balanced by caramel notes. Lots of wood here, still, as you’d expect, but slightly better balance than the Reposado. B+ / $60

ambhar.com

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Posted in Rated A-, Rated B+, Reviews, Tequila

Review: Fulton’s Harvest Pumpkin Pie Cream Liqueur

Posted on August 29, 2011 by Christopher Null| 27 Comments

How do you know that fall has arrived? Easy: Pumpkin-flavored liqueurs arrive on the shelves.

Fulton’s, produced by Kentucky’s Heaven Hill, is a limited-edition liqueur available only from September to November. Now available nationally, this cream liqueur tells its tale simply by looking at its name.

The color is that of chocolate milk, and the nose is mild and a bit nutty, almost like graham crackers. On the palate, it’s very creamy (serve cold, of course, and refrigerate after opening), with a moderate rush of sweetness, followed by more of a pie spice character than anything specifically pumpkin. The nice thing about Fulton’s is that the sweetness isn’t overdone, a common problem with cream liqueurs that makes them too cloying to drink. Fulton’s goes easy on both the spice and the sweetness. Really, a vague milk character is the most evident part of the drink, but the autumnal spice character really does make one long for Thanskgiving dinner — especially dessert.

By the way, how do you know when fall is over? Easy: Pumpkin-flavored liqueurs sell for $3.99 a bottle.

25 proof.

B+ / $10 / heaven-hill.com

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Posted in Liqueurs, Rated B+, Reviews

Review: Baileys Mudslide

Posted on August 28, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Few cocktails in the panopticon of chain restaurant beverages imbue the spirit — the very heart — of panty peeler so thoroughly as the Mudslide. A chocolate, creamy, boozy frozen concoction, this is dessert — and usually drunkenness — in a glass.

Now Baileys brings the Mudslide to ready-made status, or as near as is humanly possible. Just take this 1.75-liter jug of “vodka, chocolate, coffee, and cream liqueurs,” pour into a blender with an equal amount of ice, and pulverize until it’s smooth. You can make it as thick or as thin as you’d like. The more ice you add, the more you cut down the (admittedly weak) 25 proof alcohol level.

When complete (I didn’t even try to taste this unblended and sans ice), it’s a credible beach beverage, but hardly a knockout. The booziness comes off as much harsher than the alcohol level would indicate — more rum-like than vodka-like — and the sweetness is cloying. Chocolate and coffee are almost afterthoughts to the raw sugar notes, and the mass — which separates after about 10 minutes into a creamy tan-and-foam cocktail — is tasty enough in a sorority sister way, but it just doesn’t come together as a composed whole.

Frankly, I think you’d get better results from putting regular Baileys, a squirt of chocolate syrup, and some ice into a blender, and you wouldn’t spend much more, either.

C+ / $16 per 1.75-liter bottle / the-baileys-lounge.baileys.com

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Posted in Liqueurs, Mixers, Rated C+, Reviews

Review: 2009 Bex Riesling Mosel

Posted on August 27, 2011 by Christopher Null| 5 Comments

An easy Riesling, with fresh honey, green grape, and hints of melon. While it’s a touch sweet, it is still light enough to be meal-friendly, though it could use more acidity to help smooth out the finish. For the price, this is an amazing wine, and something certainly worth picking up in a pinch when you need something to go with Chinese takeout.

A- / $9 / bexwinery.com

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Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Wine

Review: Reyka Vodka

Posted on August 26, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Iceland: More than just crazy volcanoes. Vodka, too!

Reyka is a 2005-originated brand from this island nation — in Reykjavik, of course. It’s unclear from what base grain the vodka is distilled, but it is done so in small batches in a Carter Head still and filtered through lava rocks before bottling at 80 proof.

The results are fine, if not exemplary. The vodka has initial bite that is huge, and when first poured it can be overpowering. This subsides with some time being exposed to air, at which point it reveals some rather expected grain vodka character: Medicinal notes, backed with some dried herb character. The finish, surprisingly, is a little watery, but the bite comes back as that herbal character fades to black. Nothing fancy, but perfectly serviceable.

B / $20 / reyka.com

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Posted in Rated B, Reviews, Vodka

Review: Hpnotiq Harmonie Liqueur

Posted on August 25, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

You can put “A refreshing blend of premium French vodka, infused natural fruits, flowers, and a touch of Cognac” on the label, but Hpno is always gonna be Hpno.

An icon of the hip-hop crowd, the electric blue Hpnotiq is an icon of da club. It was only a matter of time before it spawned a sibling… or rather a “stylish BFF,” as the company terms it. Hpnotiq Harmonie, put simply, is a pinkish purple, and if you’re looking for the girliest drink on earth, you have arrived.

The flavor is equally pinkish purple. While Hpnotiq insists that lavender, violets, and berries set it apart from standard Hpno, it’s as overwhelmingly sweet as the original… just, different. Lavender is actually noticeable if you push past the sugar. There’s a sort of floral earthiness on the nose that is intriguing and promising. But a sip reveals Harmonie’s true intentions: To mask a moderate amount of alcohol in a candy-coated glaze. Harmonie is even sweeter than (my memory of, anyway) regular Hpnotiq, which is a shame, because there is some curious flower character under the surface here. It’s just too bad that with that mountain of sweetness what comes across is a thickened version of grape Kool-Aid.

34 proof.

C+ / $25 / hpnotiq.com

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Posted in Liqueurs, Rated C+, Reviews

Recipe: La Mela Cocktail

Posted on August 25, 2011 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

While I am not sure I have the patience to wait for the cider/syrup mix to set — just to use a “dash” of it — this recipe, courtesy of Maker’s Mark, sounds quite delightful.

La Mela

Recipe by Eben Freeman, Master Mixologist

¼ part St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram
¾ part Amaretto
1 part Maker’s Mark Bourbon
1 ½ parts Rosemary Apple Cider
Dash Rosemary Cider Vinegar/ Maple Syrup Mix

Combine all ingredients in a shaker over ice and shake vigorously. Serve over ice in a rocks glass. Garnish with sprig of rosemary.

To make rosemary apple cider: Place 6 sprigs of fresh rosemary in 1 quart of apple cider and steep for 48 hours.

To make cider/maple mix: Combine equal parts maple syrup and rosemary apple cider vinegar.

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Posted in Bourbon, Recipes, Whiskey

Review: Square One Basil Vodka

Posted on August 24, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

This is one of those ideas that sounded really good when I read about it… and then the sample bottles arrived and they just sat there. Basil flavored vodka? Really? What the heck is that all about?

Square One makes a surprisingly good cucumber vodka, but cukes have a long tradition in cocktailing, dating back (at least) to the Pimm’s Cup. Basil, not so much. I smell basil and I want a pizza, not a drink.

Square One Basil is more of a Thai experience than an Italian one, and indeed it uses four basil varieties — Genovese, Thai, Lemon, and Sweet — in the mix. The impact is striking: Like a Southeast Asian curry, it offers sweet and spicy notes, with a distinct lemongrass character on the nose. The body is lightly peppery and offers clear, well, basil notes. It’s a bit like drinking a liquified, boozed-up pad gra pow gai. And by that I mean it’s better than you’re probably thinking.

Cocktails? Why not. Try it with things that use ginger, coconut, pineapple, and other eastern fruits and essences and see what happens.

80 proof.

B+ / $33 / squareoneorganicspirits.com