Gruner remains a bit exotic, sure, but this wine is intriguing for its grapes: They’re 100 percent organically grown in Austria, a rarity in Europe presently. The results are less exciting than the grape heritage: Grassy, mild, and a little sour despite the initial flavors of fresh apple and lots of tongue-buzzing lemon. Organic is great, but the wine lacks a punch.
B / $14 / naturalmerchants.com
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