Monthly Archives: June 2011

Review: Wild Turkey 81 Bourbon

Wild Turkey is famously — perhaps infamously — hot, coming in at a blistering 101 proof. Now our friends at WT have released a cooler, lighter, and smoother version of the same Bourbon, weighing in at a mere 81 proof. (It just wouldn’t be Wild Turkey without the extra 0.5% alcohol.)

First things first: Wild Turkey 81 is not (apparently) just Wild Turkey 101 watered down 20%. This is a new whiskey, a blend of six-, seven-, and eight-year-old spirits aged in a heavy #4 char barrel. The usual WT high-rye mash is used as a base. (Complicating matters further is the fact that there is an older 80-proof Wild Turkey bottling as well, but that’s another story.)

The results are quite a delight. Unlike the often scorching Wild Turkey 101, WT 81 is easy and sweet. No burn whatsoever, just a lovely caramel and vanilla body flecked with lemon, honeysuckle, and heather notes. Less rye influence than in any other Wild Turkey expression (and I’ve had ‘em all). Extremely easygoing, it is a perfect sippin’ whiskey, one which needs no doctoring whatsoever.

Serious Turkey fans will probably find this a disappointment, too much of a change of pace away from the frontier style of the 101. (There’s also bound to be a chorus of boos over the price: At $20 a bottle, 81 is almost the same price as the 101 ($22), which, on a simple alcohol-percentage basis, represents a whopping 37% markup.)

Don’t mind the naysaying. It’s certainly different, but just as enchanting as the original… in its own way.

A- / $20 / wildturkeybourbon.com

wild turkey 81 Review: Wild Turkey 81 Bourbon

Review: Malibu Black Coconut Rum

Malibu is clear. Malibu Black is brown.

With that out of the way we can introduce you to another extension of the Malibu rum line: Malibu Black, a stronger, less-sweet, and more-brown version of the classic coconut rum.

That description is, basically, all you need to know. Malibu Black has much more bite (70 proof) — to the point where you can actually taste the alcohol, unlike standard Malibu (42 proof). It is considerably less sweet, to the point where it has no discernible aftertaste aside from a vague tropical character. And it is brown.

The overall flavor plays down Malibu’s tropical character and replaces it with orange (and orange peel) notes. The coconut is still quite strong, especially on the nose, but the finish isn’t that lasting sweetness that you get with standard Malibu. Instead it’s more of a classic rum character on the fade-out, reminiscent of a fairly standard white rum, chased with a bite of old German chocolate cake.

B- / $13 / malibu-rum.com

malibu black rum Review: Malibu Black Coconut Rum

Review: Balblair Vintage 2000 Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Balblair is a Highland malt, and a relatively obscure one at that. The squat bottle and modern label design don’t even look like your typical Scotch — not even Glenrothes. You could be forgiven for presuming you were looking at an obscure herbal liqueur when you spy this across the room.

But you’re not, and in fact the 2000 edition (1st release) of Balblair, released in September 2010 (making it a roughly 10-year-old Scotch), is a quite delicious whisky. The whisky recalls even-more-northerly neighbor Highland Park in style: Distinct honey nose, cereal character, some floral notes, and a citrus and Sherry finish. A bit of nougaty, marshmallow-type sweetness laces the drink — and there’s the slightest hint of smoke (not quite peat smoke, but more of a warming, campfire smoke) in the end, as well.

It’s got a surprising amount of complexity for a whisky so young and so light in color — just a pale, greenish gold — and it’s one I look forward to savoring. Look for it!

86 proof.

A- / $55 / balblair.com

Balblair 2000 USA Review: Balblair Vintage 2000 Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Review: Tres Agaves Tequila

The spawn of some old-school tequila execs (and a spinoff of the Tres Agaves restaurant, now just called Tres), Tres Agaves burst on the scene last year as another producer of high-quality, 100% agave tequilas. The company also makes a very good agave nectar and naturally-flavored margarita mix, with key lime and agave nectar as main ingredients.

We tasted both the blanco and reposado tequilas. Both are 80 proof.

Tres Agaves Blanco Tequila - A very archetypal blanco, with a big agave nose, punchy agave on the palate, then a finish that soothes that beast with a touch of sweet vanilla and lemon. Some lingering bitterness follows. I was a bit curious that this might have actually seen a week or two of barrel time before release as a way to rest the spirit, but that seems not to be the case? All in all, a solid margarita tequila. B / $28

Tres Agaves Reposado Tequila - Aged in ex-Bourbon barrels (a variety of companies’ barrels are used) for 6 to 9 months. This tequila is a total surprise. Very green in character, perhaps more so even than the blanco. Big agave notes remain surprisingly prominent, punctuated with black pepper, lemongrass, and wood. But the sweetness of the blanco is inexplicably gone here, leaving you with a punchy and quite bitter finish. C+ / $33

tresagaves.com

tres agaves tequila Review: Tres Agaves Tequila

Review: Old Pulteney Single Malt Scotch Whisky 12 Years Old

My favorite Old Pulteney has always been old Old Pulteney: At 30 years old, Pulteney takes on the essence of a longshoreman, but at a young 12 years old, as we have it here, it’s but an innocent seafaring lad of a whisky.

Hailing from the Highlands, Old Pulteney is the northernmost distillery on the Scottish mainland. (Only Scapa and Highland Park, both on Orkney, are further up there.)

This young Old Pulteney is hardly a showstopper. Brash and unbalanced, it’s a burly whisky, incredibly punchy and hot despite a mere 86 proof in the bottle, and redolent on the nose of baked bread, tar, and coal smoke.

The body features a bigger load of brine and seaweed, a touch of honey sweetness, than an overload of dried herbs, malt, and toasted (or possibly stale) bread. Touches of sherry, mainly on the finish. Honey and toast sounds like a good combination in theory, but here it is difficult and somewhat inharmonious.

B- / $33 / oldpulteney.com

old pulteney 12 years old Review: Old Pulteney Single Malt Scotch Whisky 12 Years Old

Review: 2010 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais, Moulin-a-Vent and Morgon

2010 vineyard-designated cru Beaujolais is starting to hit the scene, and Duboeuf is (as always) one of the first out of the gate with a range of Gamay-based wines from the major Beaujolais regions. We took a stab at tasting a couple of representative bottlings.

2010 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Moulin-a-Vent – Young, but not without some charms. Jammy and full of plum character. Some smoky tobacco notes in the finish, but not a lot of terroir. Kind of a flabby body to it, which muddies the overall experience. (As a side note: Oddly, this more expensive wine had a composite cork while the Morgon had a natural one.) B- / $19

2010 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Morgon – A lot like the Moulin-a-Vent but with a bit more acidity to it. Similar tobacco and smoke notes, but there’s also cocoa there too. More of a fresh raspberry than plum character — and on the whole a bit better balance. B / $15

duboeuf.com

Review: HealthGuard Be Happy Mood Booster

Most “relaxation drinks” require consuming 8 to 16 ounces of sugar water to deliver their dosage. Be Happy comes in a much more manageable shot format — a good thing considering many of these concoctions are not the best tasting beverages in the world.

Be Happy, designed by a doctor, is careful to note it does not contain melatonin, that it provides “a sense of calmness without causing drowsiness.” Ingredients to reach that include Chocamine, L-Theanine, and GABA, all delivered in a naturally-sweetened, chocolate-cherry-flavored recipe.

The flavor is at first sharp and off-putting — a bit like a cheap candy that’s melted into a cup of lukewarm water — but one adapts to it quickly enough. The chalky, lasting, and bittersweet aftertaste it what takes some getting used to: Be Happy is, indeed, best consumed fairly quickly and chased with water.

As for the psychoactive results, an hour later I’m feeling plenty calm, a little on the sleepy side, but mostly unaffected. Certainly no worse for wear — though perhaps a nap is in order.

40 calories.

B / $12 for four 2-oz. bottles / behappyjuice.com

be happy Review: HealthGuard Be Happy Mood Booster

Review: 2010 Esporao Verdelho

Portugal doesn’t just do fortified wines, it also has a wide array of dry table wines, many quite affordable. Esporao, one of the country’s top table wine producers, brings us this wine produced from the Verdelho grape, a hot-weather grape widely planted in the Alentejo region. The wine: Lemony, moderate body, almost Chardonnay-like in the mouth. Good acidity keeps you drinking, but the finish, a bit herbal, isn’t dead-on for the style I think Esporao was shooting for.

B / $13 / esporao.com

esporao Verdelho Review: 2010 Esporao Verdelho

Review: Jarritos Mexican Cola

jarritos mexican cola Review: Jarritos Mexican ColaHipsters who want a soft drink know how to order their fix at any taqueria: By asking for a Mexican Coke instead of a can of domestic crap. Why? Because in Mexico the Coca-Cola is made with real sugar. Here, of course, it’s made with corn syrup.

Is that worth the extra buck? You be the judge, but personally I just prefer drinking from a bottle than from an aluminum can.

Now there’s another alternative: Jarritos Mexican Cola. Jarritos already has 11 flavors on the market, but none of them are the classic cola recipe… and none of them have caffeine. Jarritos Mexican Cola is the first that does, and we got to give an early bottle a whirl.

The taste is different — closer to Pepsi than Coke — with lots of cinnamon, and a bit of chocolate character to it, both perhaps a nod to Jarritos’ Mexican origins. At first I didn’t really care for it — it was a bit close to root beer for my tastes — but as I sipped my way through the bottle I warmed up to it. Bonus: at 12.5 ounces, it’s that much bigger than a 12-oz. Coke.

Nice as an alternative to other sodas but, you know, there’s a reason they call Coke — especially the Mexican variety — “The Real Thing.”

B+ / about $2  per 12.5 oz. bottle / jarritos.com

Review: Skyy Infusions Blood Orange

Skyy already makes a fine citrus vodka, so why mess with things by introducing a Blood Orange version? Because it’s even better.

The juicy blood Orange is the king of citrus fruits, and sure enough it makes for a mighty fruit-infused vodka, too. This one if amazingly fruit-forward, really lush with authentic orange notes: Tart and very sweet. That slight hint of strawberry and pineapple adds to the experience, giving this an almost tropical bent to it.

Flavored vodkas are usually hardly anything to get excited about, but this one’s worth stocking.

A / $18 / skyy.com

skyy blood orange vodka Review: Skyy Infusions Blood Orange