Monthly Archives: May 2011

Book Review: Oz Clarke’s “Let Me Tell You About Wine”

Posted on May 30, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

oz clarke let me tell you about wine 264x300 Book Review: Oz Clarke’s “Let Me Tell You About Wine”The venerable – unavoidable, even – Oz Clarke continues to grind out book after book, and this almost-coffee-table-sized tome is designed to make wine accessible to even the most rank novice.

If you know nothing, you’ll probably get sucked in by the pictures of strawberries and chocolate, part of Clarke’s goal to get you thinking about the character of a wine instead of just whether it is “good” or “bad.” I especially enjoyed the book’s “wine wheels,” which put the spectrum of reds and whites each on their own circle, with a range of broad flavors around the circumference and intensity representing the distance from the center. While I doubt many readers will ever wonder where Bulgarian Chardonnay is plotted (light, between “oaky” and “oaky and fruity,” by the by), it’s a helpful way to start thinking about how various styles of wine are made.

But so much of this book is targeted at those oblivious about wine that it’s hard to really savor its lessons. There are sections about how to use a corkscrew, how to order a bottle of wine, and of course lengthy treatises on how wine is made. The book really starts to falter though in its discussion of winemaking regions: The United States is dispatched in 10 pages, one of which is devoted to the wines of Texas. Clarke then gives specific wine recommendations for each region: His list of 30 California wines to try include a hodgepodge ranging from supermarket swill (two Ravenswood bottlings) to cult wines most readers of this book will never encounter (Thackrey, Viader).

All along the way there is a surfeit of photographs of Oz mugging for the camera, glass in hand, and many, many, many stock art selections of grape vines and picnic tables overflowing with full wine glasses. Sure, if you are completely oblivious and need guidance on what wine to pair with “chilli con carne,” well, Clarke will get you there eventually (an Italian red, he would advise), though even that is a bit of a challenge due to the book’s odd organization. All the better for it to sit on the coffee table instead of in the library, I suppose.

C+ / $14 / [BUY IT HERE]

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Books, Rated C+, Reviews, Wine

Review: Brugal Ron Anejo Rum

Posted on May 29, 2011 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

We’ve covered the Dominican Republic’s Brugal Rum before and declared its Extra Viejo (old, but no age statement) an awesome rum at an unbelievable value. Brugal Anejo is aged three to five years in American white oak casks and, like it’s kissing cousin, represents an incredible value.

What does 20 bucks get you? Good, old rum. The attack is sharp, but it soon melts into a buttery body, studded with green pepper notes, mango, pineapple, and big wood notes on the finish. That finish is what knocks it down a peg, though: The petrol bite evident there makes it not nearly as good as the amazingly well-balanced Extra Viejo, an upgrade which represents the best five dollars you may ever spend on a rum. Still, even though its big brother is the more awesome sibling, Brugal Anejo represents an excellent value for what is a consistently high-grade product.

80 proof. Update: New bottle image attached.

A- / $20 / brugal.com.do

brugal anejo rum Review: Brugal Ron Anejo Rum

→ 1 Comment

Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Rum

Tasting Report: Riesling World Tour 2011

Posted on May 27, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Riesling will never get much respect, but it remains an underrated and really enjoyable grape. The Germany Rieslings being poured at this event hailed from the 2009 and 2010 vintages (the latter being just bottled by many producers) and represented a wide range of styles from bone dry to so sweet you had to wash your hands if you got a drop on you. Which you did.

As always, the highlight of the event was the “Wines of Germany” table, which featured numerous very old Riesling vintages, one dating back to 1971. Amazing to see how this wine changes as it spends decade after decade in the cellar.

Tasting Report: Riesling World Tour 2011

2010 Jean Buscher Riesling semi-dry / B

2009 Dr. Fischer Riesling Kabinett Ockfener Bockstein / B+

2010 Dr. Fischer Riesling Kabinett Ockfener Bockstein / B+

2009 Dr. Loosen Riesling Red Slate / B-

2009 Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett Blue Slate / B / bit fizzy

2009 Dr. Loosen Riesling Spatlese Urziger Wurzgarten / B+ / more balance here

2009 Dr. Loosen Riesling Auslese Wehlener Sonnenuhr / A- / rich and silky

2009 Dr. Loosen Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Erdener Pralat / A / golden, delicious, top of the line

2009 Dr. Loosen Riesling Beerenauslese BA / A- / a bit heavy

*2009 Prinz von Hessen Riesling Kabinett / A-

*2009 Prinz von Hessen Riesling Erstes Gewachs Johannisberger Klaus / B+ / perfumy, a bit overripe

2009 Robert Weil Riesling / B+

2009 Robert Weil Riesling Kiedrich Turmberg / A-

2009 Robert Weil Riesling Erstes Gewachs Kiedrich Grafenberg / A / big melon notes

2009 Max Ferd. Richter Riesling Kabinett Mulheimer Sonnenlay / B

2009 Max Ferd. Richter Riesling Kabinett Graacher Himmelreich / B / thin

2009 Max Ferd. Richter Riesling Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr / A- / silky sweetness

2009 Max Ferd. Richter Riesling Auslese Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr / A- / big

2009 Georg Albrecht Schneider Riesling vom Kalk / C+

2010 Kesselstatt Riesling Kabinett Scharzhofberger Mosel / B

2010 Maximin Grunhaus Riesling Spatlese Abtsberg Mosel / A- / monstrous

2009 Altenkirch Riesling Grauschiefer / C

2009 Altenkirch Riesling Bodental Steinberg / C-

2007 Knebel Riesling Von den Terrassen Mosel / B- / alcoholic

2009 Emrich-Schonleber Riesling Lens Nahe semi-dry / B+ / nice finish

2008 Keller Riesling Westhofener Abtserde Rheinhessen / A-

2009 Ress Riesling Kabinett km501 / B / overly fruity

2009 Ress Riesling Rhein km501 / B+

2007 C.H. Berres Riesling Kabinett Urziger Wurzgarten / B / odd nose, apricot body

1997 C.H. Berres Riesling Kabinett Urziger Wurzgarten / B / some odd nose, aging fast

2009 Gebr. Ludwig Riesling Thornicher Ritsch / C

2009 Gebr. Ludwig Riesling Kabinett Thornicher Ritsch / B

2009 Gebr. Ludwig Riesling Spatlese Thornicher Ritsch / B+

2010 Gebr. Ludwig Riesling Auslese Thornicher Ritsch / A- / pineapples and honey

2010 Gebr. Ludwig Riesling Beerenauslese Thornicher Ritsch / A- / huge, very sweet

1998 Balthasar Ress Hattenheim Nussbrunnen Riesling Spatlese / A-

1999 St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Spatlese Piesporter Goldtropfchen / B+ / lots going on, out of balance

1992 Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Riesling Spatlese Saarburger Rausch / B

1990 Prinz von Hessen Riesling Spatlese Winkeler Jesuitengarten / B- / well past its prime

1989 Gebr. Ludwig Riesling Spatlese Thornicher Ritsch / B-

1999 Dr. Fischer Riesling Auslese Ockfener Bockstein / A / still alive, fantastic

1992 Max Ferd. Richter Riesling Auslese Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr / B+

1999 Paul Anheuser Riesling Beerenauslese Kreuzacher Krotenpfuhl / B / fading

1971 Dr. Burklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Auslese / A- / burnt orange, intriguing, like sherry, with citrus notes

*For this tasting report, please see my disclaimer here.

old riesling Tasting Report: Riesling World Tour 2011

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Reviews, Wine

Tasting Report: 2010 California Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted on May 25, 2011 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

One of my favorite wine events of the year is when California’s producers roll out their barrel samples from the prior harvest. The members of the California Cabernet Society offered their 2010 selections at a recent event, and the results were intriguing.

In my estimation of dozens of barrel samples, 2010 is shaping up to be a hit and miss vintage. Many wines being poured weren’t quite “cooked” — still not even done fermenting — and a large number of wines being poured were over-ripe and jammy. Exceptions abound, of course — California is a big place and grapes ripen differently based on location — but it was obvious that disappointment with the vintage was rampant. (One producer, who will remain nameless, even dubbed me “brave” for trying their barrel sample.) It was enough that some producers didn’t bring their 2010s at all — the whole point of the event — and instead “cheated” (as another writer put it) by bringing their 2009s — shaping up as a stellar vintage in Cali.

That said exceptions abounded, and Chimney Rock, Justin, Pina, Sequum, and Viader all earned “A” ratings based on my early looks at their wines. With any luck, 2010 will bring some much-needed bargains to the California Cab world… though quality may well be all over the map.

Tasting Report: 2010 California Cabernet Sauvignon

2010 Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon / B / an abundance of fruit

2010 Baldacci Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / a bit tannic, worthy

2010 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / good balance, thick with black fruit

2010 Bell Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / very juicy

2010 Cain Five / D / really unbearable this year

2009 Carter Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / drinking solidly now, plum and cocoa

2009 Charles Krug-Peter Mondavi Family Winery Cabernet Sauvignon / B / big smoky tobacco character, over-wooded

2010 Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon Ganymede Vineyard / A / solid, really nice

2009 Clark-Claudon Cabernet Sauvignon / B / big blueberry notes

2010 Clos Pegase Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / back in business, really has it all, tart finish

2010 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / vibrant, lots of character

2010 Cornerstone Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / a bit tight

2010 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill / A-

2008 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Red Rock Terrace / A / a classic cab

2010 Dry Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Endeavor / B- / showing very young

2010 Faust Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / ripe berry notes, big promise here

2009 Fontanella Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / jammy

2010 Frias Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon / A-

2010 Guilliams Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / finish too tart

2009 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Kathryn Hall / A- / ready to go

2010 Hendry Ranch Winery Cabernet Sauvignon / B / tight

2010 Jericho Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon / C+

2010 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / good balance, lower alcohol level

2010 Justin Cabernet Sauvignon / A / solid, great balance, a favorite of the day

2009 Justin Cabernet Sauvignon / A

2010 Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / a bit buzzy, unfinished

2010 Kenefick Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / rich chocolate notes, bittersweet

2010 Kuleto Estate Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / tight today

2010 Longfellow Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / incomplete fermentation

2010 Mario Bazan Cabernet Sauvignon / B- / candy character

2010 Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / a winner, but tough and young

2010 Mi Sueño Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / very earthy, will be huge for years

2010 Peju Cabernet Sauvignon / B / young and super fruity

2010 Piña Cabernet Sauvignon Firehouse Vineyard / A / drinking well already

2008 Piña Cabernet Sauvignon Firehouse Vineyard / A-

2008 Piña Cabernet Sauvignon Wolff Vineyard / A

2009 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / minty

2006 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Generations / B+

2010 Rocca Cabernet Sauvignon / B- / bit skunky on the nose, fruity body

2010 Rutherford Hill Cabernet Sauvignon / B / licorice, herbal notes

2010 Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon CherryBlock / B / lighter style, easygoing

2010 Sequum Cabernet Sauvignon / A / huge berry fruits, immense, smooth and lush

2010 Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / incredibly fruity, milder than Silverado’s usual style

2010 Spotted Owl Cabernet Sauvignon / B

2010 Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon / B- / big barnyard nose, mild body

2010 Steven Kent Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Home Ranch Vineyard / A- / solid, easygoing

2010 Terlato Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon / A- / cocoa and vanilla notes

2010 Trinchero Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / minty nose, a bit bruising body, needs years in bottle

2010 Tudal Cabernet Sauvignon / B / super fruity

2010 Ty Caton Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / tart

2010 Viader Cabernet Sauvignon / A / always worthwhile, this one intriguing, jam and spice finish

2010 Vineyard 7 & 8 Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / restrained, rounded

2010 William Hill Cabernet Sauvignon / B+ / lush, ultra fruity — candy-like

2010 ZD Wines Cabernet Sauvignon / B+

→ 1 Comment

Posted in Reviews, Wine

Tasting Report: Spanish Wine Cellar & Pantry 2011

Posted on May 23, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

It isn’t often you go to a wine tasting where the most expensive wine costs $36… and most of the wines being poured cost about $5 or $6 a bottle. Well, wholesale, anyway.

The Spanish Wine Cellar & Pantry event is always fun and loaded with delicious foodstuffs. Although there was no Serrano ham being carved this year, a number of gems in the wine department could be found, including an awesome Tempranillo from Bodegas Verduguez that can be yours for all of 12 bucks. (Again: Wholesale!)

Tasting Report: Spanish Wine Cellar & Pantry 2011

2010 Agricola Castellana Bascarlon Verdejo / $5 / B+ / very tart

2010 Agricola Castellana Apotesosis Verdejo / $5 / B

2010 Agricola Castellana Caballero de Castilla Verdejo / $5 / A- / tropical fruit heavy

2010 Bodegas Casal de Arman Casal de Arman / $8 / A- / big fruit flavors

2006 Maria Alvarez Serrano VX Cuvee Caco / $17 / B / tannic, brash

2007 Maria Alvarez Serrano VX Cuvee Caco / $17 / B-

2009 Belondrade Belondrade y Lurton / $16 / B / fresh melon, off finish

2010 Bodega Vina Costeira Coleccion Costeira Treixadura / $7 / A- / long finish, fruity

2009 Bodega Vina Costeira Coleccion Costeira Treixadura Barrel Fermented / $7 / A- / a barrel-aged Treixadura, oaky touch adds good balance

2010 Bodega Vina Costeira Albarino Ribeiro / $NA / A-

2008/09 Bodega Vinedos Tindeo CALA N.1 / $5 / B+ / soft and easy

2005 Bodegas El Cidacos MdT Rioja / $10 / B

2001 Bodegas Fuenmayor Nocedal Reserva Rioja / $11 / B+ / well aged but hanging in there

2005 Bodegas Fuenmayor Nocedal Crianza / $9 / B / too jammy

2008 Bodegas Olarra Anares Crianza / $6 / B / lots of earth

2005 Bodegas Olarra Cerro Anon Reserva / $12 / A- / big, austere

2005 Bodegas Olarra Summa / $22 / A- / intense, massive, needs time

2004 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Reserva / $14 / A- / earthy, rich and balanced

2004 Bodegas Riojanas Vina Albina / $13 / A / even better balance, tops of the tasting

2003 Bodegas Romero de Avila Salcedo Testigo / $9 / B / cocoa and raspberry

2006 Bodegas San Dionicio Mainetes Seleccion / $10 / B+

2005 Bodegas San Valero 8.0.1 / $10 / B- / ultra jammy

2009 Bodegas Verduguez Imperial Toledo Old Vine Selection / $12 / A / has it all, young and alive

2008 Domaines Lupier El Terroir / $12 / A- / spicy, lots of acidity

2008 Domaines Lupier La Dama / $21 / B / bit more tannin, rough

2010 Domino de Punctum Viognier / $6 / B-

2007 Finca Los Alijares Graciano Alta Expresion / $18 / A- / solid fruit, mild

2005 Bodega del Palacio de los Frontaura y Victoria Crianza / $18 / A- / more body, firm

2006 Bodega del Palacio de los Frontaura y Victoria Dominio de Valdelacasa / $11 / A- / smooth

2005 Bodega del Palacio de los Frontaura y Victoria Nexus / $16 / B / lots of jam, too much fruit

2007 Pago Casa Gran Falcata Arenal / $12 / B-

2007 LaFou Cellar LaFou / $27 / A / great structure

2004 Sangenis i Vaque Clos Monlleo / $36 / A- / very dense

2004 Sangenis i Vaque Vall Por / $12 / A- / smoother

2002 Vina Extremena Corte Real Platinum / $20 / A- / smooth, big merlot notes

2007 Wine Innovators Truffle Valley / $18 / B+ / yes, it’s dessert wine with a touch of truffle oil; bizarre but not awful

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Reviews, Wine

Review: Big Bottom Whiskey

Posted on May 21, 2011 by Christopher Null| 6 Comments

It’s hard not to think of Big Bottom without immediately jumping to this, but after a few sips of this distillery’s products, my thinking is finally changing.

The company produces two very young whiskeys largely in the Bourbon style (though they aren’t billed as Bourbon). The whiskey is actually made in Indiana, then it is shipped to Oregon where it is barreled and finished; you’ll find the latter state’s name on the label. The mash is primarily corn but they’re heavy on the rye and feature a barley kicker. They’re night and day when it comes to tasting notes but both are exemplary — not to mention incredible bargains.

Snap these small batch whiskeys up if you ever see them for sale.

Both are 91 proof.

Big Bottom Whiskey 3 Years Old New White Oak – The rye (36% of the mashbill) immediately jumps to the top of mind — and the palate — when you sip this young but powerful whiskey. It’s a shock that it’s just three years old, with a maturity and depth of flavor — vanilla, caramel, and intense cinnamon, pepper, and tons of spice — that many eight-year-old Bourbons can’t touch. Great balance among all the elements. Love it. A / $30

Big Bottom Whiskey 2 Years Old Port Cask Finish – Also a 36% rye mashbill whiskey, but just two years old — and finished in Port casks from Prager Port Works in Napa, California. The difference between the New Oak whiskey is astonishing, with this whiskey frankly exhibiting an embarrassment of riches: Dark, dark chocolate, raisins, and intense caramel notes, plus all that rye spice on the back end. The balance is perfect, the color a deep and ruddy rust that looks more like Cognac than whiskey. It’s sweet and savory in perfect harmony: This is an absolutely gorgeous whiskey and, now, one of my favorites. Watch out Kentucky, you’ve got competition. A+ / $40

bigbottomwhiskey.com


→ 6 Comments

Posted in Rated A, Rated A+, Reviews, Whiskey

Review: NV JJ Vincent Cremant de Bourgogne Brut

Posted on May 19, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

France may be home to the king of sparkling wines, but that region isn’t the only one were French sparklers are made: JJ Vincent’s nonvintage Cremant de Bourgogne hails from southern Burgundy, many miles away from the hallowed vineyards of Champagne.

This Cremant de Bourgogne is made from Chardonnay, a brut wine that offers somewhat less fizziness than your typical Champagne, plus an abundance of fruit. Figs, pears, and a little pineapple offer really ripe flavors, and here the bubbles complement that well. Not yeasty or overloaded with bread notes, the JJ Vincent is refreshing and offers just a hint of sweetness — though the round body makes it less of a tart aperitif and instead a bit of a meal unto itself.

A- / $20 / frederickwildman.com

JJ Vincent Cremant de Bourgogne Review: NV JJ Vincent Cremant de Bourgogne Brut

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Wine

Review: Pucker “Grape Gone Wild” Flavored Vodka

Posted on May 18, 2011 by Christopher Null| 7 Comments

The Pucker brand of liqueurs has been with us for years — you can’t make the infamous appletini without its Sour Apple — and now Pucker is making its way into flavored vodkas, too: Higher proof level, clear spirit instead of day-glo, spiked with natural flavors.

We tasted the “Grape Gone Wild” version — three others are available: apple, citrus and cherry — to see how the company was making the great leap forward into the world of flavored vodkas.

Results: If you like candy, you’ll love Pucker Flavored Vodka. The grape flavor is Jolly Ranchers all the way — Concord grape jelly with an extra teaspoon of sugar on top. The candy store aroma fills the room when the bottle is opened.

Give Pucker some credit though, for all the tooth-aching sweetness, it has managed to make a flavored vodka with no bitter, medicinal finish, always a problem when the “flavored” part makes its exit and the “vodka” (often the rotgut stuff) inevitably takes hold. Pucker Vodka doesn’t have any real bite or funk to it, the finish more like one of your better cough syrups than Robitussin.

That’s a good thing, right?

70 proof.

B / $17 / facebook.com/puckervodka

pucker grape vodka Review: Pucker Grape Gone Wild Flavored Vodka

→ 7 Comments

Posted in Flavored Vodka, Rated B, Reviews, Vodka

Review: Mercer Wines

Posted on May 17, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

This Washington winery produces a full line of affordable whites and reds. We tasted three of its newest releases. (The photo below isn’t one of the actual wines reviewed but will give you a sense of the label at least.)

2009 Mercer Pinot Gris Yakima Valley – Light and pleasant, and quite fruity for Pinot Gris. Citrus, pineapple, and a touch of chalky mineral on the finish. Very drinkable. B+ / $14

2009 Mercer Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley – Intense Sauvignon Blanc, with big mango and pineapple notes. Not much acid, but tons of fruit, making it an easy-drinking wine that works best as an aperitif. B+ / $14

2008 Mercer Merlot Columbia Valley – A big, smoky, somewhat skunky red. Subtle plum fruit is there, but it’s muddy and buried under a lot of funk. That smokiness just taints the whole experience. C+ / $24

mercerwine.com

mercer wines Review: Mercer Wines

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Rated B+, Rated C+, Reviews, Wine

Sandeman Launches Port-Based Cocktail Contest

Posted on May 17, 2011 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Now you’re cooking… with Port!

Our friends at Sandeman are throwing a contest to see who can devise the best-tasting cocktail using Port as part of the recipe. Don’t grimace: Port has historically been a major cocktail ingredient, and only in recent years has it fallen out of favor as harder spirits have reigned. Yet, Port often makes for a really delicious part of a mixed drink. A resurgence is long overdue.

Got an idea for a Port-tail of your own? Head on over to Sandeman’s Facebook page and submit it. You could win a five-day trip to Portugal for you and a guest! Contest ends June 15, so get mixin’!

 

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Contests, Recipes, Wine