Monthly Archives: March 2011

Review: Senior Rio Tequila

This tequila brand got its start only two years ago. Distribution is now crawling its way across the U.S. (now including California, Oregon, Arizona, and Tennessee). We got our hands on samples of each of the distillery’s three expressions. All are, of course, 100% blue agave and 80 proof.

Senor Rio Blanco Tequila – Unaged and clear as a bell. Huge agave nose. On the tongue, peppermint, more agave pepper, and a finish that suggests jalapeno and spice. Not a lot of secondary nuance, just authentic agave character. A solid, big, and flavorful tequila, but with a moderate, even thin body. Prepare yourself accordingly. B+ / $45

Senor Rio Reposado Tequila – Aged 6 months. Immediately more intriguing, but still a ton of agave on the nose and the palate. Some caramel and vanilla notes tantalize you on the tip of your tongue, but they are overwhelmed in short order by that rich agave. Bigger, fuller body here, with a long, spicy finish. B+ / $65

Senor Rio Anejo Tequila – Aged over a year. Senior Rio comes into its own with this anejo, a full, balanced, and delicious sipping tequila with a deep and big blend of caramel notes and agave. Surprisingly light in color, it’s much sweeter than the reposado, silky and lush. The agave still makes its presence known, but here everything works pretty well together. A- / $75

senorrio.com

Recipe: Take Me Out To the Ballgame

This bizarre recipe comes to us from our pals at Wild Turkey in celebration of baseball’s opening day today. Now you can buy your pals some peanuts (well, hazelnuts and almonds, anyway) and Cracker Jack, and have a good time doing it.

Take Me Out To The Ballgame
(The Peanuts & Cracker Jack Cocktail)

2 oz. Wild Turkey 101
1 oz. Frangelico
1 oz. Amaretto
.25 oz. squeezed lemon juice
1 pinch salt
4 oz. soda water
handful of Cracker Jack, finely crushed

Rub half a lemon around the rim of a glass and place into crushed Cracker Jack to coat the rim. Combine Wild Turkey, Frangelico, Amaretto, lemon juice and salt in a shaker. Mix and strain into a glass with rocks and top with soda water.

take me out to the ballgame cocktail Recipe: Take Me Out To the Ballgame

Review: Jack Daniel’s Whiskey & Cola / Ginger & Cola

Lately a backlash has been brewing (no pun intended) against pre-mixed, ready-to-drink cocktails, cocktails which actually have nothing to do with the products advertised on the label — whether it’s vodka, rum, whiskey, or something else — and are in fact simply flavored malt liquor pawned off to an unsuspecting audience.

Now some savvy drinkmakers are taking an alternate — if astonishingly obvious — alternate tack: Putting the actual ingredients promised on the label into the bottle. Shocking, huh?

Jack Daniel’s (which has had its own line of semi-nasty flavored malt beverages, Country Cocktails) is the latest to join the fray, adding its iconic Tennessee whiskey to cola, ginger ale, or diet cola, to give you these new, eponymous ready-to-drink spirits.

The recipes should not come as a shock: JD, plus one of the aforementioned ingredient flavorings (ah, plus carbonated water and caramel color), and that’s it. The flavors are authentic and legitimate: Whiskey & Cola (A-) tastes like just like you added Jack to a can of Coke. Whiskey & Ginger (B+) is also completely real, if a little less successful because the ginger ale used is a little on the sweet side, and lacks much in the way of bite. (We didn’t taste the Diet Cola version, which is also available.)

The only problem many will see with this approach is the strength of the finished product: At just 5 percent alcohol, no serious Jack & Anything drinker would ever water his beverage down this much. There are a variety of laws in place determining how strong these beverages can be, of course, but that doesn’t change the fact that you’re really drinking something on par with a beer, not a cocktail (which would probably be more in the range of 10 to 30 percent alcohol, depending on how you mix it).

But maybe that’s a good thing. Sold in aluminum bottles and perfect for the tailgate or the BBQ, these aren’t products for cocktail hour, they’re made for sitting in front of the TV or out on the porch while the sun goes down. For what these products are trying to accomplish (which, to be honest, is not a lot), they succeed admirably.

That said, it’s another question altogether as to how tough it is to make one of these drinks on your own: Is it really that complicated to take the world’s number one selling whiskey and the world’s number one selling soda and pour them into a glass together? Ponder your own self-disgust as you sip away…

$9 for four 12-oz. aluminum bottles / jackdaniels.com

jack daniels whiskey and cola ginger family Review: Jack Daniels Whiskey & Cola / Ginger & Cola

Review: “Original Gangster” XO Brandy

Sometimes, dear reader, words fail me. I’ve been looking at the decanter for OG XO for days now, unable to form a coherent thought about how it makes me feel.

OG, as any hipster, ’80s child, and thug knows, stands for Original Gangster. And now that cognac has become popular in the world of hip-hop and rap music, it only stands to reason that brandy manufacturers would attempt to extend their brands into said world.

How does one do that? By partnering with a musician, of course. Ludacris was the first, with Conjure. And now things have sadly taken a turn for the blatant with Ice-T’s OG. Original Gangster isn’t technically cognac, but it is “French brandy,” produced in Languedoc and aged 10 years before bottling at 80 proof.

The results: Ice-T, to be honest, has pulled off something that isn’t half bad. Not too sweet and cloying, like Conjure, it tastes like legitimate cognac. No, it isn’t complex: Straight, lightly sugary liquor with apple, citrus, and toffee notes. Dessert-like on the finish, if it is marred by more heat than it ought to have at this age, plus a slight lack of balance. It can certainly get by without a mixer, too.

If you can get past the garish bottle and horrifying name (hint: pour it into another decanter and no one will ever know the difference), OG is really not half bad. The price tag is what seals the deal. At 25 bucks a bottle, OG practically pays for itself!

B+ / $25 / ogbrandy.com

original gangster og xo brandy Review: Original Gangster XO Brandy

Review: Security Feel Better Anti-Hangover Drink

The problem, as I’ve said here on the blog many times, with hangover prevention drinks is that they often taste so bad the hangover is actually preferable. That and they don’t really work.

Security Feel Better (yes, that’s the name) wins on both fronts: It tastes good, and it seems to be effective at making the morning after more of a success.

This small, shot-sized drink comes not in a plastic vial but a glass bottle, cuing you (hopefully) to its more upscale intentions. It’s been on sale internationally for years, and now it comes to us. The list of ingredients is very short and includes mostly plant and herb extracts: Artichoke, angelica root, lemon (vitamin C), fructose, and pear flavoring.

That’s it. Without a load of wacky chemicals, the taste is easygoing and mild. Slightly sweet, with a distinct pear flavor, and not overly syrupy. Really quite pleasant to drink, with no grimacing. Consumed before bedtime, it isn’t something you have to remember to take before you go out.

Effectiveness: No complaints. Though, as always, I consume alcohol in moderation, I woke up refreshed and ready to face a long day of packing and moving boxes, and I never felt remotely unable to complete the job. Is Security Feel Better to thank? I’m no scientist, but it certainly didn’t hurt. Beware the price tag, though.

A- / $11 (pack of two 2 oz. bottles) / securityfeelbetter.com [BUY IT HERE]

security feel better hangover drink Review: Security Feel Better Anti Hangover Drink

 

Review: 2008 Shafer Merlot and One Point Five

We’ve enjoyed Shafer’s wines for a long while. Its 2008 releases are now hitting the market. A year remarkable for its smaller crop yields, these wines are shaping up to offer uncommon intensity.

2008 Shafer Merlot Napa Valley – Not as smooth as many modern Merlots can be, this expression has a lot of tannin and greenery and its fruit is kicked to the background. Genuinely lovely undercurrents of lavender, licorice, and blackberry emerge over time, after an hour or so in the air, but it’s a long time coming. B+ / $48

2008 Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Stags Leap District – A 15.1 percent alco-bomb, which explains the intense fruit on this. It flirts with the jamminess of Zinfandel, which, to be frank, is just too much. It’s almost like a fruit pastry — pleasant and enjoyable, but too sweet for dinner. Secondary tobacco, cedar, and smoky wood notes are enchanting, but can’t measure up to the burly body. B+ / $70

shafervineyards.com

Review: Joto Sake’s Chikurin and Yuki No Bosha Sake

Joto Sake is a relatively new but already massive sake importer here in the U.S. (it was founded by the man behind Ciao Bella Gelato), and recently the company sent a couple of its bottlings for us check out.

Chikurin Fukamari Junmai comes from the only 100% estate bottled sake made in Japan. The brewery dates back to 1867. This sake is rich and pungent, featuring big melon notes and a bigger finish. More melons, earth, and evergreen character in the finale — but the conclusion comes off as a bit rough on the palate. B / $34

Yuki No Bosha Nigori Junmai Ginjo is an unfiltered sake: Lots of sediment can be seen settled at the bottom of the bottle. The drinker is intended to shake it before pouring. Very bright on the nose, this sake is tart and citrus-inflected, with a lot of earthiness, too. Melon comes on strong in the finish. Tricky and complicated, it lacks both smoothness and balance. B- / $36

jotosake.com

Review: “Art in the Age” Snap Liqueur

The makers of Root — which has found a bit of a foothold in bars around the country, based on my observation — have seen fit to extend their product lines. Now we have Snap, another sweet, artisinal liqueur inspired by the kitchen delights of our collective youth.

Snap is born from a 1600s recipe for ginger snap cookies (“lebkuchen,” as they were known in Pennsylvania Dutch country), taking its ingredients and turning them not into sweet treats but into booze. Nutmeg, clove, cinnamon, ginger, brown sugar, vanilla, blackstrap molasses, and Rooibos tea comprise the recipe here.

Intrigued? AitA’s boozy root beer was a credible replica of the real deal, but Snap has a bit more trouble with the transition. For starters, it comes across as a bit too alcoholic, though time in the air opens it up a bit. At that point, molasses becomes the scene-stealer. That’s not a surprise — they don’t call ‘em “blackstrap” for nothing — but it makes Snap end up tasting more like rum than a complex liqueur. Ginger takes a back seat even to cinnamon and vanilla in the mix, giving the spirit more of West Indies feel than anything your suburban mom might have given you.

Snap grew on me over time, particularly as air let some of Snap’s heavy alcohol out of the glass. But in the end, I wished I’d rather been sipping a nice aged rum, many of which are startlingly similar, but surprisingly (since they have fewer ingredients) more complex and, yes, a little cheaper, too.

80 proof.

B / $40 / artintheage.com

art in the age snap liqueur Review: Art in the Age Snap Liqueur

 

Discount Codes for Toast of the Town San Francisco, April 7, 2011

Our friends at Wine Enthusiast put on a great show combining good wine and good food in an elegant atmosphere. This year it all moves to San Francisco’s City Hall, a great place not just to get your business license but to have a party, too.

Details follow, along with the code for getting a discount on your tix!

Wine Enthusiast Magazine presents a music, wine and restaurant extravaganza!  While listening to the sounds of live jazz, taste 500 premium wines and spirits from over 70 domestic and international producers and savor the culinary creations from over 35 top Bay Area restaurants, all in the glamorous setting of the San Francisco City Hall.

Date: Thursday, April 7, 2011

Location: San Francisco City Hall

301 Van Ness Avenue at Grove Street, San Francisco

Benefiting: San Francisco CARE, care.org

Presented by: Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Sponsors: The Wall Street Journal

Tickets: VIP Tasting $169 (*Early Bird $129)—6:00 pm

Grand Tasting $109 (*Early Bird $89)—7:00 pm to 10:00 pm

For discounts, use code: drinkhacker — toastofthetown.com or call 888-695-0888

Participating restaurants include: Grand Café, Home of Chicken and Waffles, Farallon Restaurant, Half Moon Bay Brewing Company, It’s Italia, Jack & Jason’s Pancake & Waffle Mixes, Limon, Mission Beach Café, One Market Restaurant, Press St. Helena, Saison, Suutro’s at the Cliff House, the girl & the fig, Twenty Five Lusk, Waterbar, Urban Tavern, Navio at the Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay, etoile restaurant

Participating wineries: Too many to list!

Drinking Tequila with Casa Dragones’ Bertha Gonzalez Nieves

Casa Dragones is almost certainly a tequila brand you have never tried or likely even seen. That’s a sad thing, because it is one of the best silver tequilas on earth.

Casa Dragones is the proud bearer of a number of unique traits. It is the brainchild of Bob Pittman, a founder of the MTV network. It is a joven tequila — blanco in appearance but made up of both unaged and aged tequilas, then filtered to clear, giving it a substantial complexity. It is a lowland tequila, rare in an age where most tequila makers boast about their mountain agaves. It is column distilled, not pot distilled. It is made by the only female Maestra Taquilera ever to be certified in Mexico. Only 24,000 bottles will be produced this year, each at a cost of $275 per bottle.

Said Maestra, Bertha Gonzalez Nieves, explained all of this to me on a recent trip to San Francisco. A former cultural ambassador from Mexico to Japan and ten year veteran of Cuervo, Nieves doesn’t look like the typical Maestro Taquilero I meet with — usually grumpy old men who’d rather be back in the agave fields than on the road meeting with bloggers — but she understands tequila to a surprising depth. In between discussions about the origins of Casa Dragones (born at a New York City party where she and Pittman met) and who the Dragones actually were (left as an exercise for the reader), we enjoyed a fabulous shot of this unique “sipping tequila.”

The tequila is simply superb. Again, there is only one variety — and there will only ever be one — and the nose at first hints at nothing special. Lemon and orange peel mingle with what come across as somewhat boozy vodka notes. Breath deep and you get a sense of nuttiness, but little else. I wasn’t expecting a lot… and then I took a sip.

Casa Dragones slips across the tongue with beautiful citrus notes, building warmth as it segues into vanilla and cocoa notes, driven clearly by the extra anejo tequila that makes up the blend. It gets sweeter as you sip, showing coffee character and more of a dessert-like body, a surprise that makes you reconsider the crystal clear color of what you’re sipping. And yes, you’re sipping, not gulping. The finish is warm but has no bite, a smooth operator through and through. This tequila may indeed be a Johnny come lately, a stunt driven by a millionaire who wants a tequila to call his own — and a price tag to match — but damn if he doesn’t know exactly what he’s doing.

80 proof. Tasted bottle #655 of lot #3.

A+ / $275 / casadragones.com

bertha nieves of casa dragones Drinking Tequila with Casa Dragones Bertha Gonzalez Nieves