Monthly Archives: October 2010

Review: Botran Solera 1893 and Reserva Rum

Botran Rum, aka Ron Botran or Casa Botran, hails from Guatemala and is distilled by the same outfit that makes the fantastic Ron Zacapa, Industrias Licoreras de Guatemala.

Located about a mile and a half above sea level, Botran’s rums are matured in a very cool warehouse compared to most of the industry, where the rum is made to sweat it out in tropical climes. Botran’s portfolio spans six rums. We tried two, the most noteworthy offerings available in the U.S.

Both are 80 proof.

Botran Solera 1893 – Botran didn’t start making rum until 1939, so don’t think you’re getting rum that’s over 100 years old here. But this solera-style spirit certainly does have some really old spirit in it, judging by the deep amber color and intense aroma of wood here. The flavor profile is classic for a quality anejo: Almonds, marshmallows, a touch of black cherry, and lots and lots of turbinado sugar. A little bitter on the finish, alas, but overall this is a really quality rum — and a real bargain at $30 a bottle. A- / $30

Botran Reserva – Quite a different rum than the Solera, with less body but even more sweetness. This anejo is blend of various rums from 5 to 14 years old, rich with tropical flavors — banana and coconut — plus a good slug of caramel character. There’s less overwhelming brown sugar character here than in the Solera, and the Reserva’s finish is exquisitely smooth. This is a real winner of a rum, and, like the Solera, also a truly impressive bargain. A / $24

ronesdeguatemala.com

botran rum reserva and solera Review: Botran Solera 1893 and Reserva Rum

Review: Isle of Arran 15th Anniversary Single Malt Whisky

In the world of Scotch whisky, Arran is a wee babe. The distillery has no ancient heritage to tout to the world. It started from scratch in 1995.

To celebrate 15 years in business, Arran is releasing this special-edition whisky, distilled in 1999 (making it not 15 years old, as you might expect, but 11) and finished for two long years in Amontillado sherry casks. It’s already tough to find.

Very unusual nose here: Smoke, wood, orange zest, and an intense aroma of cloves. Those are not necessarily things that ought to go together, and all that time in sherry casks has clearly done a number on this malt. It’s all a bit much. Hot stuff, too: This cask-strength malt comes out at 109.2 proof.

With a little water you get more honey notes, and the finish takes a back seat, but the sherry lingers and plays a bit of havoc on the back of the palate. A real curiosity, to be sure, but you know what they say about what that did to the cat…

B- / $80 / arranwhisky.com

isle of arran 15th Anniversary Release Review: Isle of Arran 15th Anniversary Single Malt Whisky

Review: 2006 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley

Silver Oak’s 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley was a minor revelation. The 2006 is something different. Much tighter on release, this year’s release is showing much more herbal character, with a distinct lavender bent, atop a moderately tannic core. An hour in the glass and it isn’t really opening up much. I do have a fondness for the herb notes, but they come at the expense of fruit. The finish is quite a curiosity with touches of mint, chocolate, and wood, but it’s not really in balance they way it ought to be.

B+ / $60 / silveroak.com

2006 silver oak alexander valley cabernet sauvignon Review: 2006 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley

Review: Jarritos Mexican Sodas

If you spend as much time in taquerias as I do, you know Jarritos, the colorful sodas that come only in bottles, courtesy of our friends south of the border. Jarritos, like most Mexican sodas, are sweetened with natural sugar. They’re generally lightly carbonated, and they contain no caffeine. Flavors are predominantly a mix of natural and artificial.

The collection is a bit of a hodgepodge, design wise: Some bottles are clear and feature old-school labels. Some have a more modern, cartoony design. Even the bottle size varies: Most Jarritos come in 12.5 oz. bottles, but not all. In general, expect to get about 160 to 200 calories per bottle of the stuff.

We tried all 11 flavors in the current Jarritos lineup (that’s about 500 grams of sugar, folks) and weigh in with our opinion on each one.

Jarritos. Mexico. Culture. Get to know us.

Pineapple (Pina) – Sounds a bit nasty, but it’s surprisingly good. The pineapple flavor — and especially the color — are hardly authentic, but they both work. It’s neon yellow in color, but on the muted side in the flavor department. Citrusy, with a vaguely tropical bent. More like dried pineapple, or pineapple-flavored candy. Not bad. B+

Mandarin (Mandarina) – Orange soda, through and through, but not as sweet as your traditional Orange Crush, etc. A bit more carbonated than most of the Jarritos line. I’m not a huge orange soda fan, but this isn’t bad at all for the category. B

Lima-Limon – As you can guess by the name, this is a lemon-lime flavor. Heavier on the lime than the lemon, but a little too sweet compared to, say, 7-Up. Gets cloying over time. B

Guava (Guayaba) - Rather startling at first (the pink color may not help here), but it grows on you. Ultimately it presents itself a bit like cotton candy, quite sweet but with a certain something (guava, I suppose) that makes it a bit out of the ordinary. The uniqueness is refreshing. A-

Strawberry (Freya) - Cloying, but the strawberry does come across in the finish at least. More for kids than grown-ups. C+

Fruit Punch (Tutifruti) - Much like the strawberry, extremely sweet, but with a more clearly cherry character. Imagine fizzy maraschino cherry juice. C

Lime (Limon) – Sweeter than than the lemon-lime, and actually less limey. More candy-like, with flavors that are pleasant, but not really authentic in any way. B

Mango – Yeah, it’s mango, but again the flavors are heightened with more of a dried mango character than fresh. Overwhelmingly sweet to the point where the fruit is almost drowned away. Fortunately, the flavor that is there is good, with no artificial aftertaste. B+

Jamaica – OK, now we’re getting into some weird flavors. Jamaica is similar to the somewhat uncommon agua fresca of the same name, flavored with hibiscus flowers. Deep red, the tone is more akin to heavily sweetened tea than flowers, although some floral notes seep in, although it’s not overdone. Still, I expect this is a bit of an acquired taste. B-

Tamarind (Tamarindo) – The plus: This one’s flavored 100% naturally. The minus: With tamarinds. Sure this is another based-on-an-agua fresca concoction, and it’s always a delicious chutney, but I was nonetheless wary at first of tamarind-flavored soda. Turns out I had no need to be. This is actually one of the better installments in the Jarritos universe. The sweetness is kept in check, the tamarind flavor is mild and piquant — and authentic. It totally grows on you, faster than you’d think. I suddenly want another. A-

Toronja (Grapefruit) – For some reason, this bottle is 13.5 oz. instead of the usual 12.5 oz. Naturally flavored, too.Very mild, but on the sweet side. It’s a nice little twist on lemon-lime drinks, offering fresh citrus character with just a touch of grapefruit sourness. I wish it was a bit fizzier, though. A-

about $2 a bottle / jarritos.com

jarritos lineup Review: Jarritos Mexican Sodas

Drinkhacker 2010 Wine Cheat Sheet / Vintage Chart

For four years running we’ve provided a little “cheat sheet” about the arcane world of wine vintages, our goal being to give you something you can stick in your wallet or purse and whip out (or check out discreetly) when faced with an overwhelming wine list.

As always, here’s how to use the cheat sheet: Only the last two digits of a year are included to save space, and the list only rarely reaches back into the pre-WWII era, so assume anything you see starting with a zero to be from this century.

All years listed here are considered good to great vintages, but those in green with underlining are the cream of the crop, “classic” years that you should consider the very best on the market. (Why green and underlined? So you can tell the difference whether you use a color or black & white printer.)

Check back next October for the next revision of the cheat sheet!

Cheers!

Drinkhacker.com wine cheat sheet download options:

drinkhacker-vintage-chart [DOC]

drinkhacker-vintage-chart [PDF]

Drinking Bourbon with Four Roses Master Distiller Jim Rutledge

Having reviewed nearly a dozen different expressions of Four Roses bourbon, I’m well familiar with its famed “10 recipes” claims… but I’ve never really stopped to think about what that really means. Why would you need 10 recipes of your whiskey?

Jim Rutledge, Master Distiller at Four Roses for 40 years, stopped by San Francisco recently and, well, explained it all.

First, a little history. Four Roses as a brand dates back to 1888, and after the repeal of Prohibition it was the #1 selling bourbon in the country. Things went south after Seagram bought the brand. Way south: The company turned Four Roses into a blended whiskey, and a rotgut one at that. For decades the brand wallowed in obscurity, selling honest, high-quality bourbon overseas only, until Four Roses was finally relaunched in 2001 as the premium Kentucky Bourbon it once was. Now the company is doing some of the best and most consistent work in the bourbon world, and it was a pleasure to hear someone like Rutledge be so candid about how his product is made.

So, how does Four Roses get away with “10 recipes?” It works like this:

  • The company has two standard mashbills, a blend of grains used for fermentation. These are normally closely guarded secrets. The two mashbills are “OE:” 75% corn, 20% rye, and 5% barley. And “OB:” 60% corn, 35% rye, and 5% barley. That OB mashbill is a whole lot of rye for a bourbon.
  • To these two mashbills, the company adds five different strains of yeast, fermenting and aging them separately. Each yeast adds a much different character to the final spirit.
  • Do the math: 2 mashbills x 5 yeasts = 10 recipes.
  • After they’re aged, Four Roses then blends these various recipes into its final bourbons, with hundreds of combinations available.

And that’s why various Four Roses bottlings taste so different from one another. Four Roses Single Barrel is made exclusively from OB mash with “V” yeast, and I find it to be a very hot bourbon, where that rye content really comes through. Four Roses Small Batch is made from half OE and half OB, with each of those fermented with “K” and “O” yeast. The result is a wildly different whiskey, with an amazing balance of sweet and spice and a lush finish.

Various other bottlings — namely the annual Mariage edition — change annually.

One of the most instructive things I’ve encountered in my years of writing this blog is tasting Four Roses’ “white dog” new make spirit fermented with different yeasts. Rutledge produced samples of his OB mashbill straight off the still, one fermented with “V” yeast and one with “K.” The differences were astonishing. The OB/V was silky and smooth, not at all harsh like most white whiskeys tend to be. The OB/K was clean but with a racy spice character to it.

Now imagine what happens after these spend seven years wallowing about in oak barrels. Well, you don’t have to, I guess. You can just go out and buy them.

fourroses.us/the_master_distiller

jim rutledge four roses Drinking Bourbon with Four Roses Master Distiller Jim Rutledge

Review: GlenDronach 12, 15, and 18 Year Old Scotch Whisky

The GlenDronach distillery in the Scottish Highlands had been dark for years, but the Scotch boom of the 1990s led to it being restarted in 2002 in order to take obvious advantage of the trend. Now part of the Chivas empire, the distillery’s first new-era products are now live, with 12, 15, and 18 Year Old bottlings just now hitting the market. (I’m not entirely clear how a distillery that began operating again eight years ago can have an 18 year old single malt whisky, but I’ll let someone from the distillery chime in on that one.)

Here are some thoughts on the three big new releases you’ll be seeing soon.

GlenDronach 12 Year Old – Amazing sweetness, with a big sherry kick. Lots of honey and nougat, with a rich body and just a touch of smoke in there to keep things interesting. The finish is long but bracing with sugar, which may play down any nuance in this malt. 86 proof. A- / $50

GlenDronach 15 Year Old – Surprisingly darker in color than the 12 Year, with a considerably different flavor profile, too. For starters, it’s richer, with much more wood character. More citrus here, too, but the sweetness is played down. It’s also surprisingly hotter, with more bite. Yes, it’s 92 proof, but the burn is more about those oily wood overtones than the extra alcohol. While enjoyable and quite delicious at times, I found myself gravitating back to the 12, a little put off by the tough finish. B+ / $80

GlenDronach 18 Year Old – Again, three short years give this malt a wildly different perspective. The wood now dominates completely, drowning away the sweetness and sherry influence in the younger whiskys. Kind of a mocha kick, with notes of coal, raisin, and dark chocolate. Less complex than it sounds — like the 15 it is overwhelmed by wood, though the finish, once you push past the heat, offers substantial charm. B+ / $115

glendronachdistillery.com