Monthly Archives: October 2010

Review: Yorkville Cellars Mendocino 2006 Wines

Posted on October 22, 2010 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Mendocino’s Yorkville Cellars is a unique little oddball in the wine world. It produces classic Bordeaux varietals (plus Carmenere), but it’s based in Mendocino, known mainly for Zinfandel production (which Yorkville doesn’t make).

Then, it doesn’t blend those varietals: It bottles them separately. In fact, Yorkville says is Rennie Vineyard is the only place in the world where these six grapes are grown together and vinified separately.

How do they stack up? We tasted all six (sold as a set) from the 2006 vintage. Here we go:

2006 Yorkville Cellars Malbec Rennie Vineyard Yorkville Highlands – Intense licorice character, with a huge oak backing. A little out of whack, which is common for California Malbecs. Drink it with a big meal. B

2006 Yorkville Cellars Cabernet Franc Rennie Vineyard Yorkville Highlands – Awfully jammy and up-front for Cab Franc, with a simply structured but very extracted body. Night and day vs. the Malbec. Almost like a Zinfandel. B+

2006 Yorkville Cellars Petit Verdot Rennie Vineyard Yorkville Highlands – Surprisingly full of character. Unbelievably purple. A flash of pepper plays nicely with the hugely cherry body. Moderate and tart finish, with a decent balance on it. Very unusual. B+

2006 Yorkville Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Rennie Vineyard Yorkville Highlands – Lovely on first blush, but the body retreats to jammy fruit too easily, and there doesn’t seem to have been enough time in cask spent here. Might cool down with some bottle time, but I’m not certain. Decent but not a knockout. B

2006 Yorkville Cellars Merlot Rennie Vineyard Yorkville Highlands – Tough and incredibly herbal. Gets easier with time in the glass, but it’s still chalky and uncharacteristic of good Merlot. C+

2006 Yorkville Cellars Carmenere Rennie Vineyard Yorkville Highlands – Not a fan. Extremely tart to the point of astringency. Ultra-fruity, with sweet jam and candy notes, it goes way too far into the berry world for easy drinking. C-

$200 for case of six wines / yorkvillecellars.com

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Posted in Rated B, Rated B+, Rated C+, Rated C-, Reviews, Wine

Review: Martin Miller’s London Dry Gin

Posted on October 21, 2010 by Christopher Null| 3 Comments

One can hardly talk about Martin Miller’s gin without talking about Martin Miller. Miller is a self-described “gypsy” who often compares himself to Richard Branson — presumably because of the flowing locks both of them share. Miller made his money in mail-order dating, an antiques guide book, and a bed and breakfast before turning to hotels in England and finally gin. Now 10 years old, Martin Miller’s gin is an upscale bar standard, though it is far from exorbitantly priced.

But enough about him, here he has his own vanity spirit, a single-batch copper pot gin, steeped overnight with juniper, coriander seed, angelica root, citrus peel, orris root — and some oddities — powdered licorice, nutmeg, cinnamon, and cassia bark. It is distilled in England, then shipped to Iceland where it is cut with water.

The results are on the powerful side for gin. The aroma hints at traditional, if muted, juniper notes, but the body packs more of a wallop: Quite a bite, with a distinct lemon finish (which is odd, since there is no lemon in it). All those herbal additions don’t do much to cut through it. Martin Miller’s is powerfully citrus on the whole — there’s even grapefruit here — and maybe too much so. It’s not as wholly in balance as I’d like it to be, and the bite is a little tougher than it ought to be. It has some charms, but I think it requires just the right cocktail (and not a martini) to show off its biggest strengths.

This gin is 80 proof, but a stronger version, at 90.4 proof, is also available.

B+ / $29 / martinmillersgin.com

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Posted in Gin, Rated B+, Reviews

Review: Kilchoman Summer 2010 Release

Posted on October 20, 2010 by Christopher Null| 3 Comments

In the world of Scotch whisky, Kilchoman is tiny. It’s one of the smallest distilleries in the country, producing about just about 130,000 bottles of whisky each year. It’s also one of the newest distilleries around, having opened its doors in just 2005 — the first all-new distillery in Scotland in over a century.

Kilchoman, based in Islay and now the westernmost distillery in Scotland, is releasing its bottlings on a seasonal basis so those interested in the operation can taste things as they move along. Its first spirit arrived in the U.S. only last year, and a new one is finally hitting here. Kilchoman grows its own barley, malts it on its own floors, and gives its whiskys (so far) just over three years in old bourbon barrels before releasing them.

This Summer 2010 Release is a traditional Islay malt, massively peated but with some citrus underlying it to balance things. 92 proof, it’s very pale, reflecting its age (or lack thereof), looking in the glass more like a reposado tequila. The malt is a little rough and tumble, to be sure. It’s hardly cohesive, and the smoke and sweet feel a little out of balance vs., say, and old Ardbeg or (very) old Laphroaig. That said, it grows on you, and over time you get more of a bacon-like savoriness out of the spirit that is tough to find in much on the market these days.

B+ / $73 / kilchomandistillery.com

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Posted in Rated B+, Reviews, Scotch, Whiskey

Review: Buffalo Trace Antique Collection 2010 Edition

Posted on October 19, 2010 by Christopher Null| 14 Comments

For the third year running, we’re fortunate enough to check out Buffalo Trace’s limited release editions of five highly-sought-after whiskeys. No change to the lineup, name-wise, from the 2008 and 2009 editions, although what’s inside the bottles is, as always, just a little bit different. On the whole, this year’s whiskeys, in fact, are some of the best renditions yet. Get ‘em while they last!

Sazerac Rye 18 Year Old – An outstanding entry this year. Sazerac’s 18 Year (rye, with corn and barley in the mash) features a misleadingly mellow nose, but take a sip and it positively attacks the palate with huge rye notes. Gorgeous incense, burnt sugar, and flowery lavender notes are in abundance. Sweet and spice are in perfect balance here, and the overall whiskey is much more effective and perfected than 2009′s edition. A masterpiece of the rye world. 90 proof. A

Eagle Rare 17 Year Old Bourbon – Another hit from Eagle Rare, but the finish is very dry and woody, still a bit like gnawing on a stick. Again it’s not quite back at the pinnacle of 2008′s release, but at least it’s comparatively easy-drinking compared to some of the alcohol bombs in this lineup. 90 proof, again. A-

George T. Stagg Bourbon – Always the showstopper, this year’s Stagg is a bruising 143 proof. This edition of the Bourbon is 17 years and 7 months old and it’s a classic as usual. Cut it down and you get the essence of wood up front, with a smooth, creme brulee, cinnamon, and apple pie finish. It’s as American as playing baseball and being too lazy to vote. Another winner that you’ll savor all night. A

William Larue Weller Bourbon – Back down in proof to 126.6, but still hotter than Hades. 12 years and 3 months old, making it a bit more austere than 2008 and 2009. This one absolutely demands water, at which point it reveals nothing but caramel all over the place. 2009′s Weller was full of fruit character; in this one the fruit takes a back seat, but it still makes itself known in the finish. Much better balance, once it’s cut down to size. The best Weller I’ve had in awhile. A-

Thomas H. Handy Sazerac – Another rye/corn/barley blend, at 126.9 proof, aged 6 years and 3 months. Handy is always the underdog of this lineup, and compared to the Sazerac rye, it’s short. While it’s extremely hot (and very sweet), the body is muted in comparison to Sazerac’s well-aged masterwork. The honeyed character grows on you, but it lacks that punch and kick that really good rye ought to have. B

about $65 each / greatbourbon.com

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Posted in Bourbon, Rated A, Rated A-, Rated B, Reviews, Rye, Whiskey

Review: 2008 Domaine La Montagnette Cotes Du Rhone Villages

Posted on October 18, 2010 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

A blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and a bit of Carignane and Mourvedre, this Cotes du Rhone Villages dramatically outclasses its meager price tag. Fruit-forward and very lush, this simply-produced wine lacks a ton of complexity but is filled with plum notes and easygoing tannins. The finish is tart and slightly herbal, and very well balanced. This simply tastes like an expensive wine.

A- / $10 / courtesy winechateau.com

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Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Wine

Review: Jeremiah Weed Country Peach Sweet Tea Vodka and Sweet Tea Bourbon

Posted on October 16, 2010 by Christopher Null| 5 Comments

We’ve discussed at length the obliviatory powers of Jeremiah Weed Sweet Tea Vodka, and now the company is back with a couple of extensions to the line. Get ready to rock, tea-sip style.

Both are 70 proof.

The first is unsurprising: Jeremiah Weed Country Peach Sweet Tea Vodka. I’ve never much understood the connection, but peaches and tea have gone hand in hand for decades, so it makes sense they’d be conjoined here in a flavored vodka. Like standard Jeremiah Weed, the Country Peach version looks like tea and smells a lot like it too. The difference: It’s considerably fruitier on the nose, though the peach is hard to peg, and on first taste it doesn’t scream tea leaves but very sweet fruit. I found the original Jeremiah Weed considerably more satisfying — its tea character is powerful and quite delicious — as the peach isn’t 100% convincing and leaves a lingering aftertaste that coats the mouth. B+ / $18

And now for something completely different… If you can flavor vodka, why not flavor Bourbon? Jeremiah Weed figured it would take two great southern tastes and put them together with Jeremiah Weed Sweet Tea Flavored Vodka & Bourbon Whiskey. The result: A winner. The nose is muted, giving few clues to the experience ahead, but the body offers the best of both worlds: Big sweet tea character, and a touch of bourbon’s sweetness and wood. To be honest, the overall effect is not dramatically different from Jeremiah Weed’s standard vodka, as the tea component is by far the strongest part of the blend and it still has vodka in the mix. For something just a little bit different, though, it’s a hit. A / $18

jeremiahweed.com

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Posted in Flavored Vodka, Rated A, Rated B+, Reviews, Vodka, Whiskey

Review: Mount Gay Rum 1703 Old Cask Selection

Posted on October 16, 2010 by Christopher Null| 5 Comments

We’ve reviewed most of the Mount Gay lineup, but have finally gotten our mitts on the top of the line: Mount Gay 1703 Old Cask Selection.

This rum is produced in accordance with the Barbados distillery’s typical methods — aged molasses is distilled using two different techniques, then the rum is put into casks. 1703 is a selection of a variety of casks at a variety of ages, some up to 30 years old.

The result is a blended rum that exudes complexity. The nose is strong with wood and vanilla notes, so hefty you’d be excused if you thought this was good bourbon based on the aroma. But the first taste offers that telltale rum sweetness, a rush of sugar that is quickly tempered by so much wood that it feels like you’ve woken up in a lumberyard.

As things mellow out in the glass, 1703 reveals it to be less sugary than many fine old rums, and more balanced with those wood, candylike dessert, and green vegetable notes — characteristics which actually work pretty well rather than detracting from the overall effect. Without a doubt it’s one of the priciest commonly available rums on the market, and that makes it a tough sell vs. Mount Gay Extra Old at half the cost or less, but for something decadent and celebratory, this is a hit.

86 proof.

A- / $100 / mountgay.com

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Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Rum

Review: 2009 Clif Family “The Climber” Wines

Posted on October 16, 2010 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Did you know: The Clif Bar people don’t just make snacks. They make wine, too.

These athletically-themed labels — both redesigned and updated — are just about to hit the market.

2009 Clif Family Winery The Climber Sauvignon Blanc California - Not a full Sauvignon Blanc — it’s actually a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 13% Pinot Gris, 5% Riesling, 1% Pinot Meunier, and 1% Muscat — but it may as well be; the other grape characteristics just don’t come through. This is a light-styled white, crisp with apple notes and with a pleasant touch of melon on the tongue, too. Light body, with a clean but rapidly fading finish. Easygoing. B+ / $12

2009 Clif Family Winery The Climber Red California – A kooky blend of 63% Zinfandel, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Syrah, 2% Merlot, and 2% Petite Sirah. Tastes pretty much like Zin, but on the watery side. This is a young and fruit-forward wine, but it lacks the burliness of really good Zinfandel. Palatable, but a little boring, to be honest. A pizza wine, as Clif puts it. B- / $12

cliffamilywinery.com

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Posted in Rated B+, Rated B-, Reviews, Wine

Featured on Foodista

Posted on October 16, 2010 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

So we’re the Featured Drink Blog of the Day at Foodista. It’s kind of a big deal, I guess. Here’s our badge to prove it.

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Posted in Uncategorized

Review: Rokk Vodka

Posted on October 15, 2010 by Christopher Null| 8 Comments

The noble country of Sweden brings us this new vodka, Rökk — a name meant to invoke “on the rocks,” the way it might best be consumed, but which doesn’t really mean anything in Swedish.

Distilled from unspecified grains, it is available straight and in a variety of flavors. Its claim to fame: A “freeze filtering” process that takes the vodka to sub-zero temperatures before charcoal filtering the near-frozen vodka.

We tried all five expressions. The flavored versions are each 70 proof.

UPDATE: This just in from Rokk: The name is derived from Rok, the largest rune-stone and earliest known documentation of Swedish literature; Rokk is also crafted with European wheat.

Rokk Swedish Vodka is a standard 80-proof neutral spirit with a quality that belies its budget price. The aroma evokes pine needles and feels almost Christmasy — and I mean that in a good way. On the body you’ll find a honey-like character, more evergreen notes, and a pleasant, smooth finish. Very surprising to get such balance and smoothness — yet some interesting character — from a vodka this affordable. A-

Rokk Citrus Vodka has notes of lemon, tangerine, and grapefruit on the nose, and the palate is quite pleasant. Follows through on the palate, with a bit of lemon peel bite on the back-end. B+

Rokk Orange Vodka is not to be confused with Rokk Citrus. The nose again has tangerine in it — more so than straight Tropicana orange — but lacks that lemon kick. The body is more candy-like, with pleasant sweetness that the Citrus version lacks. A-

Rokk Apple Vodka has huge green apple notes on the nose and the body. I was skeptical at first that this could be any good, but it’s an impressive and authentic flavor. A bit of bite on the back end is my only complaint. B+

Rokk Raspberry Vodka is, as one might expect, the fruit bomb of the bunch. But the flavor is genuine and, while it’s very sweet, the overall effect is actually pretty pleasant. Definitely a Cosmo vodka. A-

each $13 / rokkvodka.com