Monthly Archives: September 2010

Exclusive Review: Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve Bourbon

Next January (yes, 2011), the iconic Knob Creek will be releasing a new whiskey, expanding a line that, like Maker’s Mark before it, has resolutely stuck to one single product for all its life — 20 long years.

That product is Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve — a single barrel, higher-proof version of its incredibly popular big brother.

And we got to try it early to tell you what we think.

Color us fans.

At 120 proof, this new Knob Creek is scorching hot, and too impossibly strong to drink without cutting it down. It needs water, and more than a splash.

Once down to sipping strength, this bourbon’s charms are readily apparent. Standard Knob Creek is complex but on the sweet side, its oak balanced by vanilla and a gently sugary texture. Knob Creek Single Barrel is bigger and burlier — evident even after it is brought down to an appropriate proof.

The vanilla core is still there (and the bourbon, we should add, is still 9 years old), but the most noteworthy addition is considerably more wood character — which is the same trick Maker’s pulled with Maker’s 46 — but Knob Creek Single Barrel also has an intriguing finish that its standard-edition predecessor lacks. Candy-like but aromatic, it’s toffee and incense, leather and rosemary. Very intriguing, and it grows more apparent as you drink more of it.

Next to standard Knob Creek at $26, Single Barrel is hardly decadent at a paltry $40. Try some when it arrives in four short months and let us know what you think!

Will update this post with a picture of the bottle when a photo becomes available.

A / $40 / knobcreek.com

Four 2006 Cabernets from the Stags Leap District

Our friends at the Stags Leap District in Napa, California (it looks like this), were kind enough to send a smattering of Cabernet Sauvignon wines from the 2006 vintage. We tried them all together to see how this vintage is shaping up.

Overall, these Cabs are ready to drink but could stand a little more age. Common threads are their lushness, with chocolate, black cherry, and even cinnamon notes. But differences are hardly difficult to find…

hartwell cabernet sauvignon Four 2006 Cabernets from the Stags Leap District2006 Hartwell Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District – An easy favorite, perfectly balanced, smooth, rich, and velvety. Blackberry notes are strong, and the finish is decadent. A / $90

2006 Silverado Solo Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District – I’ve had this wine many times and this time out it’s better than I remembered and expected, with lots of fruit, a soft body, and a pleasant — yet tannic — finish. Classic Stags Leap character. A- / $77

2006 Lindstrom Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District – There’s a lot to like in this atypically jammy wine, but it’s rough around the edges and the finish is thin. B+/ $90

2006 Steltzner Reserve Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District – Light body and quite herbal, with a light bitterness on the finish. A bit of an anomaly amongst strong competition. B- / $40


Review: Blackbird Vineyards Wines

Blackbird operates out of Napa Valley’s Yountville area, where it makes Merlot-heavy wines that are inspired by those of Pomerol, Bordeaux. We tasted through six new releases from the winery’s top-notch portfolio. Samples were via Tastingroom.com, from 50ml bottles.

2009 Blackbird Arriviste Napa Valley Rose – A very crisp and easy rose of Merlot (58%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), and Cabernet Franc (12%). Sounds burly, but it’s not — it’s crisp and full of berry notes, with not a hint of cloying perfume to be found. An excellent pre-dinner companion. A / $24

2008 Blackbird Arise Napa Valley – A blend of Merlot (75%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), and Cabernet Franc (20%) — but this one’s red. Huge body here, with jammy plum, smoky oak, and licorice notes. A little overwhelming, to be honest, but with enough complexity to merit a second look. B+ / $50

2007 Blackbird Paramour Napa Valley – Paramour dramatically updates the Cab Franc quotient with this blend of Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), and Cabernet Franc (45%), giving this wine a much lighter body than Arise. Pleasant, but the price is a dealbreaker. A-/ $90

2007 Blackbird Contrarian Napa Valley – Mostly Cab Franc (46%), with Merlot (34%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) bringing up the back. A lush and surprisingly well-balanced red, with herbal and fruit notes playing well together. Has a lot in common with Paramour. A- / $90

2007 Blackbird Illustration Napa Valley – Mostly Merlot (70%), with Cabernet Franc (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), and a touch of Malbec (5%) to round it out. I like this blend a lot, smoothed out but there’s something irregular in the finish. A- / $90

2006 Blackbird Illustration Napa Valley – 2006′s Illustration has a significantly different composition: Merlot (86%), Cabernet Franc (11%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (3%), making this the most Merlot-heavy wine in the bunch. Slightly smoky, with a very tart core that hints at chocolate. A bit minty. Less of a fan than the ’07 blend. B+ / $90

blackbirdvineyards.com

Review: Olmeca Altos Plata Tequila

Don’t go a-hunting for Olmeca Altos tomorrow. Until now this tequila has only been available outside of the U.S. — and in Europe, the Middle East, and Africa, it’s a pretty popular brand. Try hard and you’ll be able to find it stateside — and cheap, too — but the search just might undo you.

A 100% agave tequila from Los Altos in the Jalisco highlands, Olmeca Altos uses a bit of an odd production process. I’ll let the company explain:

Olmeca Altos’ unrivalled brand uniqueness is further represented by its Tahona production process. Tahona, a 500-year-old process exclusive to the Olmeca brand, uses a giant volcanic millstone to crush the cooked Agave pinas and expose the juice and fibre from the plant. A part of the Tahona Liquid produced during this process is then added to Olmeca Altos’ fermentation and distillation process to enhance the sweet, citric taste and aroma.

So there you go.

You do indeed get that strong citrus taste — here more grapefruit than orange or lemon — and agave takes a bit of a back seat. The body is moderate. The finish has a fair amount of bite to it. It’s a bit of a departure from a standard blanco — almost a margarita in a bottle, it’s so fruity — but that makes Olmeca Altos perfectly suited as a mixer in any number of cocktails. I’m less enamored with it on its own, but for a mere $20 a handle, my complaints are muted to be sure.

B+ / $20 / olmecatequila.com

Olmeca Plata tequila Review: Olmeca Altos Plata Tequila

The Single Malt Scotch & Whisky Extravaganza Events Approach

Over the next three months, seven lucky cities will have the good fortune to host The Single Malt Scotch & Whisky Extravaganza, beginning October 7 in Chicago and wrapping up December 2 in Fort Lauderdale. The schedule has been finalized, and here are the full details:

CHICAGO THURSDAY
OCTOBER 7, 2010
The Union League Club of Chicago
65 West Jackson Boulevard
Chicago, IL 60604
Jackets Required (No denim or athletic wear)
BOSTON THURSDAY
OCTOBER 21, 2010
The Taj Boston
15 Arlington Street
Boston, MA 02116
WASHINGTON, DC WEDNESDAY
OCTOBER 27, 2010
JW Marriott Hotel
1331 Pennsylvania Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20004
PHILADELPHIA FRIDAY
OCTOBER 29, 2010
The Union League Club of Philadelphia
140 South Broad Street
Philadelphia, PA 19102
Jackets Required (No denim or athletic wear)
SAN FRANCISCO TUESDAY
NOVEMBER 16, 2010
Intercontinental San Francisco
888 Howard Street
San Francisco, CA 94103
LOS ANGELES THURSDAY NOVEMBER 18, 2010 Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel
1700 Ocean Avenue
Santa Monica, CA 90401
FORT LAUDERDALE THURSDAY
DECEMBER 2, 2010
The Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino
1 Seminole Way
Hollywood, FL 33314

Get full details here, and use registration code “TDH2010″ to get $15 off the price of admission. Hope to see you there!

Review: Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2010 Edition

The old bourbon masters at Old Forester never get tired of celebrating their birthday, and each year for the last eight years they’ve release a “Birthday Bourbon” in honor of the September 2 birth of George Brown (the namesake of Brown-Forman).

This edition of Old Forester Birthday Bourbon went into barrels in October 1997, making it just shy of 13 years old. As a budding pre-teen, this whisky is bold and brash, with an intensely woody nose. You needn’t look far to get that on the tongue, either — 12 years is a lifetime for a Kentucky whiskey — and the wood is overwhelming on the palate too.

But something funny happens during the finish. The wood melts away and leaves behind caramel, toffee, marshmallow, and some melted chocolate notes. The whiskey gets decidedly complex with some honey in there. It doesn’t taste nearly as hot as its 95 proof bottle strength would indicate. I found last year’s Birthday Bourbon to be a bit of an unwieldy smoke bomb. This year Old Forester has something to truly celebrate.

A / $50 / oldforester.com

old forester birthday bourbon 2010 edition Review: Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2010 Edition

Tasting Report: The Tasting Panel Double Gold Winners 2010

Of all the events I attend, The Tasting Panel Magazine’s get-together of its Double Gold Medal winners is the only one that mixes wine with spirits. Nowhere else do I expect to sample a Turkish rose next to peaty Scotch. Somehow it works, and while the selections here were all over the map, some standouts were to be had, including rich Pinot from Jazz Cellars and Sequana, a surprisingly good Pisco (the first time I’ve ever used that phrase) from Pisco “O,” and light, easygoing cachaca from Germana. Notes based on a brief tasting session follow.

Wine

2009 Jules Taylor Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough / $15 / B+ / mild, good for the money

2007 Lynmar Chardonnay Russian River Valley / $30 / B/ huge oak

2009 Kavaklidere Egeo Roze Aegean Turkey / $19 / B+ / tart, curious

2007 De Tierra Pinot Noir Silacci Vineyard Monterey / $32 / B / skunky

2008 Cru-Monterey Pinot Noir Appellation Series Santa Maria Valley / $35 / B- / too herbal, off

2008 Wrath Pinot Noir Quasi Mulla Monterey / $38 / B- / funky notes

2008 Sequana Pinot Noir Sarmento Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands / $32 / B

2008 Sequana Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch Green Valley / $40 / A-/ solid pinot, authentic

2009 Jazz Cellars Pinot Noir Lone Oak Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands / $45 / A-/ rich and intense

2006 Paradise View Malbec Sonoma Coast / $32 / A- / surprisingly good for Cal malbec, big herbal finish

2007 Cameron Hughes Cabernet Sauvignon Lot 172 Atlas Peak / $22 / B / hugely tannic

2007 Halter Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles / $28 / B-

2007 Millarium Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley / $75 / A-/ rich, has aging potential

2007 Valley of the Moon Cabernet Bland, Cuvee de la Luna Sonoma County / $30 / B

2007 St Helena Road Winery-Maier Family Meritage Sonoma / $34 / B

2007 Niner Wine Estates Fog Catcher Paso Robles / $58 / B+ / rich blackberry notes

2006 J. Lohr Cuvee Pau, Paso Robles / $50 / B- / overdone

NV Gonzalez Byass Oloroso Sherry Solera 1847 Superior Selection / $18 / B+

Spirits

Rokk Vodka, Sweden / $NA / B+ / traditional, light sweetness

Pisco “O” Torontel, Ica, Peru / A- / $35 / intense lemon notes, a surprise

2009 Germana SOUL Cachaca, Brazil / A- / $29 / light and easy

Germana Tradicional Cachaca, Brazil / B+ / $34 / bolder, lightly aged

2009 Germana Heritage Cachaca, Brazil / B / $79 / even more aged, but unbalanced

Tequila Blu Reposado, Mexico / B / $38 / a tough rough

Tequila Cinco Blancos Anejo, Mexico / B- / $23 / rough attack, harsh

El Zacatecano Anejo Mescal, Mexico / B+ / $NA / almost no smoke – this is mescal?

Rum Vizcaya VXOP Solera Rum, Dominican Republic / B+ / $38 / overwhelming sweetness

Isle of Jura Single Malt Scotch, Prophecy, Scotland / B+ / $70 / massive peat bomb, big iodine notes

Pere Magloire Calvados VSOP, France / B- / $40 / tough and rough

Pere Magloire Calvados XO, France / B+ / $75 / huge apple character (as one would hope)

Comandon Cognac XO, France / B+ / $145 / tasty, but needs better balance, off finish

Review: Vesica Vodka

Math time.

.75 liters + 1 liter = what?

1.75 liters, that’s right.

And here’s the gimmick with Vesica Vodka: Take the .75 liter bottle and the 1 liter bottle of the vodka and put them together and you get the 1.75 liter bottle — not just in volume, but in bottle shape, too. How do I know this? I’m sitting in front of 3.5 liters of the stuff that Vesica sent me and am doing the geometry/math/whatever for myself. The crescent .75 liter plus the round 1 liter = the goggle-shaped 1.75 (see the photo below to get a sense of it). It’s insane, people.

Vesica’s odd bottle shapes aside, this Polish spirit is triple distilled from potatoes and bottled at 80 proof — no matter what shape you’re talking about.

It’s not bad at all. Clean and simple, Vesica offers traditional aromas and body, quite medicinal in the mid-palate but overall pleasing and easy. The finish has bite, but also some sweetness. The balance is about right, provided you like a big, hearty spirit. Ten bucks gets you in the door with the little bottle.

B+ / $10 / vesicavodka.com

Vesica vodka Review: Vesica Vodka

Review: 2006 Twomey Merlot Napa Valley

You heard it here first, people: Merlot is the “IT” wine of the decade. Yes, forget what you know from Sideways: If you want a quality California red wine at a reasonable price, your best bet is going to be the Merlot for the foreseeable future. Why is this? Because demand for Merlot has been going down, leaving the remaining growers less pressured to increase yields… and more able to focus on quality.

The results are something like Twomey’s 2006 Merlot Napa Valley, which is 94% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc. Supple and ready to drink now, the 2006 shows cherry notes, raspberry, and a little black pepper on the finish. The body is moderate, the overall experience clean and authentic. $50 is on the pricey side for Merlot today, but this one may be worth it.

A- / $50 / twomeycellars.com

Twomey 06 Merlot Review: 2006 Twomey Merlot Napa Valley

Review: Balvenie PortWood 21 Year, Balvenie Rum Cask 14 Year, and Balvenie 40 Year

More new whiskys from Speyside’s The Balvenie are on the way in coming months, and we got a sneak preview of two of them (plus a taste of an old favorite). Thoughts (based on early bottlings) follow.

Balvenie PortWood 21 Years Old – One of the distillery’s finest expressions, finished with five months of time in Port pipe. Features lush nougat and marshmallow notes, some citrus, and toasty grain. Elegant texture and well balanced. 86 proof. Previously rated an A at this 2009 event. A- / $150

Balvenie Rum Cask 14 Years Old – Balvenie’s 17 year old special edition Rum Cask is one of the distillery’s most popular expressions. It’s no longer on the market, so Balvenie is reviving it in a junior incarnation with this slightly younger version (due out this month). You get rum right off the bat, a big caramel nose  that also invokes coconuts. The body is coating, sweet, and lush. At just $60, it’s a steal. 86 proof. UPDATE: Now officially called Balvenie Caribbean Cask 14 Years Old. A- / $60

Balvenie Forty 40 Years Old – Just 150 bottles will be made of this ancient spirit, an intense and amazingly big whisky. It’s smoky on the nose, with wood chips underneath. Aged in bourbon and sherry casks, it’s interesting that Madeira-like characteristics are the most forthcoming in the body. Hot at 97 proof, it opens up with water. To be released in early 2011. A- / $3,800

thebalvenie.com

balvenie 40 years old Review: Balvenie PortWood 21 Year, Balvenie Rum Cask 14 Year, and Balvenie 40 Year