Monthly Archives: August 2010

AlcoHAWK Personal Breathalyzer Roundup

How drunk are you? No, really? How do you know?

If you’re a regular imbiber, it’s a good idea to test yourself once in awhile to make sure you’re OK to drive. 0.08 percent blood alcohol content (BAC) is the maximum legal level in most states, but knowing if you’re over that threshold can be difficult (particularly as you get closer and closer to it).

Portable blood alcohol testers can be helpful, but many require patience and luck to get them to work properly. Here’s a look at two very different models from AlcoHAWK, one of the leaders in personal breath analyzers.

AlcoHAWK Slim Ultra fits in a pocket and is about the size of a cell phone. The unit works well… when it works. Making that happen requires blowing into the unit for five seconds, turning it on, then waiting for it to count down from 100 to zero, a process that can take several minutes. Then, more often than not, the unit signals that it has an error. You have to repeat the entire process from scratch, then hope for the best. Sometimes you need one reboot, sometimes four. We never got it to work right on the first try, but when we did finally get it going, it offered results exactly in line with the more professional tester (accurate to three decimal places) that we had to compare with. B / $50 [BUY IT HERE] (pictured)

AlcoHAWK One Test is a single-use breath alcohol tester that has pretty limited value no matter what you’ve been up to that evening. It’s a slim tube the size of a cigarette that works only once. To use it, you puncture both ends, then blow into it like a straw. You then wait basically wait until the yellow crystals inside turn green. If the level of greenness crosses the line and red dot on the tube, you’re over 0.05% BAC — and presumably you shouldn’t drive. The accuracy is questionable, and I imagine if you are drunk enough to see a lot of green crystals in here, you know you shouldn’t be driving anywhere. But at least it’s portable. C / $20 for five [BUY IT HERE]

alcohawk slim ultra AlcoHAWK Personal Breathalyzer Roundup

Review: 2006 Hugel Pinot Gris Classic Alsace

pinot gris classic hugel Review: 2006 Hugel Pinot Gris Classic AlsaceNow featuring label artwork by Ralph Steadman, this is not your father’s Hugel, the wine with the iconic yellow label.

Tart with minerals up front, Hugel’s Pinot Griss “Classic” is light in body and reveals peach, mango, and vaguely tropical notes before fading into a more alcohol-driven, lightly bitter finish. Otherwise it’s an easy-drinking summer wine… too bad summer’s in its final days.

B / $15 / hugel.com

Review: Cordina Mar-Go-Rita Wine Cocktail

cordina mar go rita Review: Cordina Mar Go Rita Wine CocktailThe mercury has topped 90 in San Francisco today, and in a city with no air conditioning, that means retreating to whatever means necessary one can dig up to stay cool.

Cordina’s goofily-named Mar-Go-Rita has been in my freezer for weeks, so what better time than now to bust it out.

What is it? Imagine a kid’s metallic Capri Sun packet, with an oversized hole for the straw. But don’t refrigerate: Freeze it. The insides turn slushy, not unlike the stuff that comes out of one of those machines behind the bar at your favorite tourist trap. You drink it right out of the pouch, or squeeze it into a glass if you’re feelin’ fancy.

What exactly is a “wine cocktail?” The base of the Mar-Go-Rita isn’t tequila but “agave wine,” which is fermented, not distilled, to 48 proof instead of 80 proof. Cordina doesn’t say what the rest of the cocktail is, except that it has no artificial flavors or colors, but the resulting juice is 8% alcohol (16 proof).

The final product: Not bad, actually. It does indeed taste a lot like a chain-restaurant slushy drink, overly sweet-and-soured, tart, but with a distinct tequila-like bite to it. Fine for a blazing hot day, but hardly a classic margarita you’d make at home.

If nothing else, it’s way better than this stuff, which has basically the same idea.

B / $3.39 per 375ml pouch / bigeasyblends.com

Review: BlackBeard Spiced Rum

Rum — especially spiced rum — is on the rise again, and BlackBeard is the latest, a Puerto Rican rum being imported by DonQ’s parent company.

BlackBeard offers aromas not of the spice box but rather of a traditional aged rum, with strong caramel, some wood, and toffee notes. This continues into the body. Put simply, BlackBeard is less “spicy” than most of its competition. Here the heat is on the mid-palate, a pepperiness that offers a rather simple burn, not those exotic notes a la incense or baking spices that one comes to expect and enjoy in a proper spiced rum.

That said, BlackBeard is not bad. In fact on its own merits, the taste is quite pleasant and it works well as a mixer. But overall, the effect is more like overproof aged rum instead of a true spiced rum. That’s not really a bad thing; just know what you’re getting into when you crack it open.

86 proof. Due in September 2010.

B+ / price TBD (but I’m guessing in line with Captain Morgan)

Blackbeard spiced rum Review: BlackBeard Spiced Rum

Review: Jim Beam Black Double Aged Bourbon

I’m on record as saying that Jim Beam is one of the most underrated bourbons on the market. It’s not just a quality product, it’s also dirt cheap, and even its higher-end products, like Distillers Series, are crazy inexpensive.

As the label notes, Jim Beam’s new Black Label is “double aged” — double the age of Jim Beam White Label, that is — spending eight years in barrel instead of four.

The result is an intense and surprisingly hot bourbon (though just 86 proof), and after a caramel burst on the nose, it’s hefty with alcohol. Add some water and things open up nicely, showing big wood notes, orange, and a spicy bits of incense. Similar to Beam’s house style, on the whole, but just more of it. Worth a try.

B+ / $20 / jimbeam.com

Jim Beam Black Bottle Review: Jim Beam Black Double Aged Bourbon

Review: Three Wines from Santorini, Greece

Whatever you do, do not ask me how to pronounce any of these wines.

Santorini is a tiny Greek island in the Aegean Sea, 120 miles from the mainland. Turns out they grow a lot of grapes there, and naturally they make wine from them. Assyrtiko is the main grape here, and it is found almost nowhere but Santorini and other islands in the Aegean. The character is akin to Sauvignon Blanc (with which it is often blended), making very pale-colored wines with mineral and fresh fruit character, and crisp, tart bodies.

We released our inner Kraken and tasted three wines from Santorini to come to grips with this Greek juice.

2009 Koutsoyiannopoulos Santorini – Nice and dry. Crisp with some muted floral notes, fresh figs, and an olive character in the nose. Candied apricots appear for the finish, which harkens back to a little bit of that bitter olive character. Aka Volcan Winery. B+ / $18

2009 San…torini Winery by Artemis Karamolegos Santorini – The fruitiest of the bunch, with distinct peach and lemon notes, a round, Chardonnay-like body, and a buttery overall tone. Not entirely balanced, though. The sum is less than the individual parts. B+ / $NA

2009 Gavala Santorini – Good luck figuring out the name of this winery from the label: It’s written only in Greek. You’ll know it, though, by the blue bottle and by the addition of Aidani grapes to the Assyrtiko. The blend gives this wine some zip, a punchiness that is reminiscent of Gruner Veltliner. Also good, but very different than the other two wines here. B+ / $12

Volcan Assyrtiko Label Review: Three Wines from Santorini, Greece

Review: Effen Vodka

A staple of the high-end bar scene (and even available at most dives), Effen is distilled from wheat in Holland and bottled at 80 proof.

All pretty standard stuff, and Effen is indeed a fairly straightforward vodka. Grainy and a bit medicinal on the nose and on the tongue, it offers a moderately long finish but suffers from a lot of bite and significant burn.

Secondary characteristics? Hard to find and what’s there isn’t so hot: There’s something of a funky character in the nose, almost like pool chlorine. It’s hard to place and it doesn’t follow through into the body, but it’s not all that pleasant. This may be dressed up in a modern bottle and a futuristic label, but it’s old school spirit all the way.

What’s to love though is the rubber sleeve designed to both prevent slipping and look cool. It succeeds admirably on both of these fronts, at least.

B / $30 / effen.com

effen vodka Review: Effen Vodka

Review: 2007 Tenuta Rapitala Nuar Sicilia

 Review: 2007 Tenuta Rapitala Nuar SiciliaAn interesting blend from Sicily, Tenuta Rapitala’s Nuar is 70 percent Nero d’Avola and 30 percent Pinot Noir (aka Pinot Nero).

There’s a distinct coffee nose, with wood and smoky hints. The body is moderate but flavorful, with intense blueberry/blackberry character and chocolate notes. Another touch of coffee on the finish. It’s almost criminal that it comes for just $15 a bottle.

A- / $15 / rapitala.it

Review: Parker’s Heritage Collection Wheated Bourbon 4th Edition

The good folks at Heaven Hill’s Parker’s continue their annual bourbon blowout with this 4th edition of Parker’s Heritage Collection, a 10-year-old wheated mashbill whiskey, bottled at cask strength. (That strength will vary, but in the case of my sample, that’s 127.8 proof.)

Last year’s Golden Anniversary bourbon was hot but full of gorgeous fruit and candy notes. This one is well past that — blazing hot — and immediately begs for water before more than a tiny sip can be taken. With a splash of water, things open up beautifully. The whiskey’s wheat character (corn and malted barley are also used) is evident here, offering a more earthy, rocky profile than the traditional spice imbued by recipes that use rye instead. But the moderate sweetness on the front of the palate is ultimately outweighed by this savory character, and it eventually turns toward the bitter on the back of the throat, an effect that is made all the more powerful by its heavy wood notes.

Parker’s 4th Heritage Edition doesn’t really hold a candle to last year’s near masterpiece, but in a world with few wheated whiskeys, it’s well worth investigating.

A- / $80 / bardstownwhiskeysociety.com

Parkers heritage Wheated 4th Edition bourbon Review: Parkers Heritage Collection Wheated Bourbon 4th Edition

Review: Valdo Prosecco

Two new non-vintage Proseccos from Valdo — both extremely different in design — arrived today. The brand that dates back to 1926 and was once part of the Bolla family. Now it’s a budget label that exists for your enjoyment.

Valdo Prosecco Brut – Quite sweet, with a tart edge. A bit grassy in character, with a roundness that makes it quite easy to drink, with no roughness. I like this quite a bit. A- / $11

Valdo Nerello Mascalese Brut Rose – This rose is a blend of Prosecco grapes and Nerello Mascalese, a black Silician grape namely known as a coloring agent. The addition, alas, does nothing for the wine, turning it pink yet harsh and tough, turning perfumy those grassy notes found in the standard Brut. C+ / $13

pasternakwine.com

valdo prosecco Review: Valdo Prosecco