Monthly Archives: July 2010

Review: Cardhu Single Malt 12 Years Old Scotch Whisky

Cardhu Single Malt has been out of U.S. liquor stores for years — not since 2003 has a single malt version of Cardhu been for sale here. (A controversial “pure malt” Cardhu — a blend of single malts from various distilleries — was available for awhile, but it was a much different product than this.)

Now Speyside’s Cardhu (hugely popular in Spain, and I now see why) is back with its 12 Year Old single malt expression, and it’s a lively one worth trying.

Cardhu 12 Year is made in a lighter, sweeter style, rich with honey in a way that few whiskies I’ve encountered are. The nose adds lavender and heather to the sweetness, but that sugary richness in the body is hard to overpower. A delightful and easy-drinking whisky, this is a fabulous aperitif malt, one that is very versatile either on its own or in a cocktail.

Why’d they stop selling it over here? Maybe because we couldn’t pronounce Cardhu? (It’s “Car-Dow,” by the way.)

80 proof.

A- / $44 / malts.com

cardhu 12 years old single malt Review: Cardhu Single Malt 12 Years Old Scotch Whisky

20% Off San Francisco Bay Rum Festival Tickets

Hey rum fans, want to check out rum old and new, rum cocktails, and rum-food pairings ’til you scream for your galleon?

Check out next month’s San Francisco Ministry of Rum Festival, held at Miss Pearl’s in Oakland on August 8, from 2 to 5pm.

All you need to get in cheap is register for the forums at the Ministry of Rum website, then you’ll get 20% off the $50 admission fee. Just create and log in to your account, and you’ll see the discount automatically when you purchase your tickets.

Hope to see you at the event!

masthead.small  20% Off San Francisco Bay Rum Festival Tickets

Review: 2007 Villa Mt. Eden Pinot Noirs

Two new Pinot Noirs from this ancient Napa Valley winery (founded in 1881) — and from two very different parts of California — arrived this week. Here’s what we thought.

2007 Villa Mt. Eden Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido Vineyard – This southern California Pinot offers a bright cherry nose, with a tart and lean body. Nice cola character on the palate, but otherwise it’s a pretty simple and uncomplicated — though easy to drink and quite food friendly — expression of Pinot Noir. B+

2007 Villa Mt. Eden Pinot Noir Russian River Valley – A more challenging rendition of Pinot, with a peppery nose, and a distinct menthol character. A Pinot with edge, crafted in more of a Burgundian style than the New World Bien Nacido wine. Worth exploring, but a little overpowering for a wine that should be delicate. B

each $25 / villamteden.com

villa mt eden pinot noir Review: 2007 Villa Mt. Eden Pinot Noirs

Review: Laurenz V Singing and Charming Gruner Veltliner

I expect (and hope) that most readers of this blog are old enough to remember when Gruner Veltliner was going to be the Next Big Thing in wine. I’d peg that date at about 1998.

And then the Next Big Thing really did come along.

It turned out to be Pinot Grigio.

Oh well. The fact that Gruner never became a household name didn’t stop Austria from pumping out the stuff, and in fact the general quality level of Gruner Veltliner hitting our shores today is exceptional — much better than the cheap Italian Pinot Grigio we’re getting gouged for at the grocery store.

Laurenz “Lenz” Moser makes some of Austria’s best value-priced Gruners, and his entry-level wine is called “Singing,” despite the well-known rule that the name of your wine should never be a gerund.

2008 Laurenz V Singing Gruner Veltliner has a huge buzziness on the tongue, almost as if it’s carbonated, with its huge minerality dancing around in your mouth. Flinty, let’s say. The body is lean and crisp, and the flavor profile, once you push past the bedrock, offers apples, figs, and a touch of honey on the finish. Enchanting, singing even, especially at this price. A / $16

2006 Laurenz V Charming Gruner Veltliner is a much different wine, with a creamier, bigger body and less acidity. Though it’s also Gruner, it has more of a Chardonnay feel to it, which may make it more popular with fans of the more buttery style of wine. Fruit-wise, the flavors are similar, just more muted: apples and figs, some mango. B+ / $28

laurenzfive.com

laurenz v gruner veltliner singing charming Review: Laurenz V Singing and Charming Gruner Veltliner

Review: The Bitter Truth Bitters Lineup

Hey Mr. Sheriff, there’s a new gun in town in the bitters category. Called The Bitter Truth (get it?), this brand hails from Germany and now spans eight types of bitters.

The house style is, how shall we put it, bitter. Strong on the bitterness, less of a focus on the fruit or other components of the mix. In fact, The Bitter Truth’s lineup is stronger in the bitterness category than any other bitters brand I’ve tried; I recommend a relatively light hand when mixing drinks with these, but while the overall line has some winners and losers, in the right concentration they can all be pretty good.

We tried six of the eight bottles in the lineup. Comments follow.

The Bitter Truth Aromatic Bitters – Very strong, with a root beer attack and a very bitter finish. Angostura is sweeter and easier going, while Fee’s Aromatic has more of a soda pop feel to it. Angostura remains my clear favorite here. B

The Bitter Truth Creole Bitters – A direct alternative to Peychaud’s bitters, and quite similar if you can get the quantity right. Again, they’re considerably more bitter, however, with a sort of burnt aftertaste. B

The Bitter Truth Orange Bitters – Comparable to Fee’s Orange, with a big orange peel character and a strong, bitter finish. B+

The Bitter Truth Lemon Bitters – The biggest departure from the competition: Fee’s is hugely sweet, while The Bitter Truth has an intense citrus peel bitterness. This would be incredibly different in a cocktail — and I actually prefer this one to Fee’s. B+

The Bitter Truth Grapefruit Bitters – Bitter Truth’s version has virtually no grapefruit character to it at all and is mostly forgettable. Fee’s has a good balance of fruit with a bitter edge. C-

The Bitter Truth Xocolatl Mole Bitters – Alas, I have no other chocolate bitters for comparison. Interesting hints of chocolate and cinnamon on first blush, then quickly overpowered by a bitter conclusion. Interesting, but not sure where or how I’d use this one. B-

the-bitter-truth.com

the bitter truth bitters Review: The Bitter Truth Bitters Lineup

Review: Regatta Ginger Beer

The ginger beer Renaissance continues, with newcomer Regatta joining the fray as another solid alternative on the market. Not as full of bite (or little chunks) as Fever-Tree, it’s a sweeter brew that can be consumed in a cocktail or on its own. The ingredients include fructose, ginger extract, and a variety of gums and such, but the impact on the whole is pretty good.

Available in 12 oz. bottles and single-serve-sized 8 oz. cans, the ginger bite is modest but present, and the sweetness isn’t overdone. Good balance, on the whole, though the finish is a little odd, with a lingering aftertaste that feels perhaps a little chalky.

A nice ginger beer for those who can’t handle the burn.

UPDATE: Regatta in cans has always been sweetened with cane sugar, not fructose, and the company is also now switching its bottled product to cane sugar as well.

A- / $2 / regattagingerbeer.com [BUY IT HERE]

regatta ginger beer Review: Regatta Ginger Beer

Review: Unwind Citrus Orange Relaxation Beverage

Unwind is another entry into the budding “relaxation” beverage category, imbued with additives designed not to pump you up (or get you drunk) but to knock you out after a long day.

Unwind counts among its ingredients valerian root, rose hips, acai, goji berry, passion flower, and that age-old calming standby, melatonin (with a whopping 3mg per 16-oz. can; the amounts of the other additives aren’t disclosed). It’s a relatively small ingredient list (not including the various B vitamins therein), and available in three flavor, citrus orange (reviewed here), pomegranate, and grape.

The flavor fortunately doesn’t outgun the bright orange color. The taste is fairly mild, more like a Tang than an orange drink, though the fizz feels strange in a late-night beverage, almost more like an Alka-Seltzer than a Coke. Overall, it’s not unpleasant. It’s also relatively low in sugar — 12 grams per can, which gives you just 50 calories.

After putting away about half a can (really, what more can you ask of me, people?), I’m feeling reasonably relaxed. I’m not exactly tired but I could certainly go to sleep if I was prodded in that direction.

One question before I nod off: For something you’re supposed to drink before bed, what’s the idea of putting this in a 16 ounce can? What restful sleeper wants to have to get up in the middle of the night to pee?

Update: Now available in 12 oz. cans (thanks to this review, by the by), and two additional flavors, goji grape and pom berry — the latter being my favorite of the trio.

B / $55 (shipped) per 24-pack of 16 oz. cans / frontierbeverage.com

Unwind Orange Review: Unwind Citrus Orange Relaxation Beverage

Review: Newcastle Summer Ale

Don’t look at the label and taste this one blind: Newcastle’s new, limited edition Summer Ale has no resemblance to its better-known, Browner big brother at all.

This golden lager is instead a moderately-to-heavily hopped version of a standard ale, refreshing but bracing with its bitterness. There’s a surprising amount of sweetness in the finish — maybe a hint of the Newcastle Brown Ale heritage. Otherwise, the flavors run toward citrus more often than not.

Overall, there’s nothing here that any serious beer fan is going to fall over himself about, but it has enough charm to merit sipping on, indeed, a hot summer day.

B- / $8 per six-pack / newcastlebrown.com

newcastle summer ale Review: Newcastle Summer Ale

Review: Beefeater London Dry Gin Summer Edition

Take standard Beefeater and add hints of elderflower, blackcurrant, and hibiscus flower and you’ve got Beefeater’s limited-release Summer Edition gin.

At least that’s what it says on the bottle. In my mouth, this tastes an awful lot like standard gin to me, with juniper top notes — always big in Beefeater — still dominating the nose and the body.

Hibiscus, oddly enough, is the most recognizable part of the additions here, giving this gin just a hint of floral character — one that’s probably enhanced by the elderflower in the mix, too.

But on the whole, Beefeater proves that, as with its “24″ premium bottling, no matter what it adds to the blend, Beefeater is gonna do what Beefeater is gonna do: Dump a lot of juniper into the mix and call it a night. Yes, it’s a slightly softer gin than you might be used to, but it’s still unquestionably gin and it’s still got that juniper kick. Bring on the tonic.

80 proof.

B+ / $19 / beefeatergin.com

Beefeater Summer Gin Review: Beefeater London Dry Gin Summer Edition

Review: Two New Boxed White Wines

Eventually the boxed wines stack up here at Drinkhacker HQ, and as much as we like the way they work as iPhone stands, eventually we have to do our duty and review them.

Here are thoughts on two new boxed wines, both in 3-liter containers.

2009 Silver Birch Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand – Actually one of the better NZ Sauvignon Blancs I’ve tried in recent months. This wine is crisp and fruity, with a good apple core and some tropical notes — mango and pineapple. The finish is easygoing, with minimal acidity. I would be wholly unembarrassed serving this at a party. B+ / $19 per 3L box / octavinhomewinebar.com

2009 Folonari Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie – This Veneto-region wine is equally simple, but it has slightly more body to it. Just as agreeable, it doesn’t have a whole lot to it, but it is tinged with melon notes on the finish. B / $20 per 3L box / folonariwines.com