Monthly Archives: June 2010

Review: Danny Boy Irish Whiskey

The name is not entirely politically correct (see also here), but Danny Boy is nonetheless Irish Whiskey true and true.

Give Danny Boy — distilled by Cooley Distillery — a little time in the glass before you dig in: It’s got some heat that mellows after a few minutes with exposure to air. Your patience will be rewarded with a surprisingly easy spirit, a fresh and young Irish with grain character that is laced with apple and some caramel notes. Not a lot to it, really, but it’s nicely refreshing, leaving a touch of honey on the tongue.

Get going, the pipes are calling.

80 proof.

B+ / $22 / dannyboywhiskey.com

danny boy irish whiskey Review: Danny Boy Irish Whiskey

Tasting Spanish Wines with Bodegas Terras Gauda Winemaker Emilio Rodriguez

Meet Emilio Rodriguez. He makes wine at Bodegas Terras Gauda — primarily white Albarino — and Pittacum — primarily from the red Mencia grape. Together, these two Spanish wineries (“bodegas” to those in the know) pack a one-two punch, representing two exceptional, crisp whites plus one of the best Spanish reds I’ve ever tasted. If you happen to stumble upon Pittacum’s Aurea –only 7,500 bottles were produced — I highly encourage you to snap it up.

Over lunch at San Francisco’s Piperade, we tasted the four latest releases from these two wineries and got an update on winemaking in the Rias Baixas and Bierzo regions of Spain (both are in the northwestern most part of the country).

Sweetbreads were served.

Tasting Notes – Bodegas Terras Gauda and Pittacum

2009 Terras Gauda Albarino / $20 / B+ / An unaged, and no-malolactic white that has a surprisingly creamy butteriness; bright acidity and citrus on this one, with touches of lemon in the finish alongside a bit of earth.

2009 Terras Gauda Rias Baixas O Rosal / $24 / A- / 70% Albarino, 20% Loureira, and 10% Caino Blanco — Terras Gauda grows 95% of the world’s production of Caino Blanco, and it all pretty much goes into this wine, so if you want to experience it, you better come here. The added grapes give this white a much more interesting profile, with some zip on the tongue and a touch of peachy, Viognier-like character. Racy, but with a well-structured body.

2006 Pittacum Mencia Bierzo / $24 / A- / Solid Mencia, which is normally not a world-class red. This one’s a bit dusty, with flavors of roasted meat and smoke on the nose. Very lean tannins and easy to drink young.

2006 Pittacum Aurea Mencia Bierzo / $52 / A+ / Very New World in structure, like a fine California Merlot. Very silky, with mellow tannins and an intense richness, packed with berry and laced with light smoke notes. Perfect balance. I instantly fell in love with this wine and demand another glass of it, posthaste!

terrasgauda.com

pittacum.com

Review Roundup: 5 White Wines for Summer

Summer is here — officially, now — and that means the white wines will be flowing. Why not take the opportunity to look at five different varietals all primed for warm weather? All of the wines reviewed below are extremely affordable, too. Take a look!

2009 foppiano sauvignon blanc 69x300 Review Roundup: 5 White Wines for Summer2009 Weingut Meinhard Forstreiter “Grooner” Gruner Veltliner Niederosterreich – That’s a lot of words for a wine sold as “Grooner,” one of the cheesiest-looking wines I’ve ever tried yet, bizarrely, a really good one. Atypical for Gruner Veltliner, it’s a fruity, lemon-infused wine with a zippy, buzzy body. So easy to drink, and equally good with food. A- / $12 / grooner.com (pictured below)

2009 Foppiano Vineyards Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley – A crisp and light — extremely pale — wine with a really easygoing body. Apricot interplays with minerals but it’s not a very deep experience. B+ / $18 / foppiano.com (pictured at right)

2008 Luna Vineyards Pinot Grigio Napa Valley – Oddly brown in color, with a pleasant melon-inflected nose, but a skunky, rough finish. Not  C+ / $18 / lunavineyards.com

2009 El Coto de Rioja Blanco – Somewhat simplistic, this wine made from 100% Viura grapes is crisp and easy. A lightly woody finish adds complexity, but only a little. B / $9 / elcoto.com

2009 Trapiche Torrontes Mendoza – An Argentinian oddity, with a Muscat-like character, rich with orange peel. Sadly, it’s so rough that it isn’t all that pleasant, and it clashes with food. Strange finish, too. C / $9 / trapiche.com.ar

2009 grooner Review Roundup: 5 White Wines for Summer


Review: Early Times 150th Anniversary Edition Kentucky Whisky

“The whisky that made Kentucky whiskies famous” is now 150 years old, and to celebrate, the folks at Early Times are putting out a special edition bottling of their canonical (update: not quite a) bourbon.

Don’t get too excited. Early Times is not exactly a top shelf whiskey, and this special edition marks only a modest upgrade, specifically one which gets 5 to 6 years of aging vs. the mere 3 that standard Early Times gets.

The result is still an awfully hot bourbon, 100 proof and even more fiery than that would imply. There’s some character here, to be sure: Vanilla from the wood, overwhelming spiciness, and a distinct mashed corn impression. The body is thick, burly, and racy, a frontier style whiskey that makes no bones about its brash, in-your-face character. (Remember: Early Times was originally sold as medicine.)

Take it or leave it.

36,000 half-bottles made.

C+ / $12 (375ml) / earlytimes.com

early times 150th anniversary whiskey Review: Early Times 150th Anniversary Edition Kentucky Whisky

Review: Four Oskar Blues Brewery Beers

Previously we discussed Oskar Blues’ Gubna Imperial IPA brew here, and the company was kind enough to send four more of its more readily available concoctions — all sold in cans and all made in Colorado — for us to try out.

Oskar Blues Dale’s Pale Ale cuts a traditional pale ale style, intensely hopped and dark gold in color, with a thick head on top. It’s hard to argue with the praise this beer has received — the New York Times named it the country’s best pale ale — but its thick, viscous body and rich finish make it more of a complex sipper than the big thirst-quencher you might hope for from your average canned beer. 6.5% alcohol by volume. A-

Oskar Blues Old Chub Scotch Ale is a beer I like, and not just because it has quotes from So I Married an Axe Murderer… printed on the can. Smoky and deep, this dark brown ale offers a wealth of foam atop a sweetly woody core, rich with coffee notes and, again, all that smoke, courtesy of the smoked grain used in the recipe. The company suggests it’s “the beer equivalent of a lightly smoked single malt scotch,” and that may be pushing things. Either way, though, it is a big, burly, and incredibly unique brew. 8% abv. B+

Oskar Blues Gordon Ale is named after Gordon Knight, a Colorado hero who perhaps was a fan of the Imperial Red/Double IPA style of beermaking. A monstrous IPA, you can sense the alcohol before you even drink it — 8.7% abv, by the way. Thick and oily, it’s a big brew, not as hoppy as you might think but strong and perhaps a little unbalanced in its over-earnestness. B

Oskar Blues Mama’s Little Yella Pils (get it?) is a traditional pilsner, low-alcohol at 5.3% abv by Oskar Blues standards. A Czech-style pilsner, it’s a bright yellow color as the name implies, but the taste doesn’t really show. Dusty and corny, it is neither overly intriguing nor all that refreshing. It’s plenty drinkable, but I feel like the beer needs more sweetness and a racier body to merit serious attention. B-

each about $2 per 12-oz. can / oskarblues.com

15% off Pinot Days San Francisco Tickets

pinot days 15% off Pinot Days San Francisco TicketsThe world’s most noteworthy celebration of California Pinot Noir, Pinot Days, gets going on June 27th, and if you’re a Pinot fan it’s a place you need to be.

And Drinkhacker wants to ease the financial burden of your attendance. When you purchase tickets, use the coupon code DRNKHKRSF10 and you’ll save 15% off the $60 purchase price.

The event is on from 1pm to 5pm on Sunday June 27th. Be there!

Tasting Report: Wild Turkey Whiskey Lineup with Eddie and Jimmy Russell

I had the pleasure to be led through Wild Turkey’s six whiskeys, courtesy of an online tasting with Jimmy Russell (of “Russell’s Reserve” fame) and his son Eddie Russell, the two men responsible for distilling Wild Turkey today at Austin Nichols distillery.

Both of the new Russell’s Reserve whiskeys have been re-released in new packaging (silkscreened bottles without paper labels (and with clearer age statements), which makes the color of the whiskey look lighter, though that’s just an illusion), but otherwise this lineup hasn’t changed much in years — particularly “the 101,” classic Wild Turkey with no frills allowed.

Thoughts on the six whiskeys we tasted follow.

Wild Turkey 101 – The classic. Hot with a lot of alcohol, to be sure, but warming and smooth underneath. Surprisingly clean and easy, with lots of rye in the mix and applewood undernotes. There’s a great amount of vanilla here, and it all works well together. Not a terribly complicated whiskey, but this is a stellar standby — and one I’ve come to appreciate over time. Prior, relatively naive review here. A- / $19

Wild Turkey Kentucky Spirit Single Barrel – The single barrel version of standard Wild Turkey, with individual barrels picked by Jimmy Russell himself. 101 proof, just like standard Wild Turkey, but so much more intriguing. Really amazing spiciness, and great interplay between the grain and the wood, with tons of orange peel and cinnamon, and a long, soothing finish. Easily my favorite Wild Turkey expression of the event. (Bottled 4/15/09, barrel 95, warehouse F, rick 25) A / $50

Russell’s Reserve Bourbon 10 Year Old – Lots of citrus character, and not quite over-oaked, but awfully close. Though just 90 proof, it somehow feels hotter than the 101. Some caramel, some hazelnut in the mix, but not overly sweet. A slight astringency on the finish. Looking over my old notes, I obviously liked this in this tasting much more than last time out — and putting the two bottles side by side, I believe the recipe has evolved a bit, turning in a smoother, more straightforward whiskey. That’s good. A- / $30

Wild Turkey Rare Breed – A small batch bourbon, bottled at a whopping 108.2 proof, cask strength versions of a collection of 6-, 8-, and 12-year old bourbons. It doesn’t come across as hot. Eddie talks about dark chocolate in this one, but I don’t get that flavor much here. It’s more of a vanilla note — quite sweet at that –and you need to add a good bit of water to get it down to a place where those flavors come out. It’s good but doesn’t hold a candle to Kentucky Spirit, in my mind. (Batch WT-03RB) B+ / $36

Russell’s Reserve Rye 6 Year Old – Not as flavorful as many modern rye whiskeys, Russell’s is not as “big” as the dynamic duo would have us believe. Interesting cherry notes here, but relatively mild in comparison to the rest of the lineup. I actually gave this a better rating last time out; tasted both with no discernible differences. 90 proof. B+ / $30

Wild Turkey American Honey Liqueur – Wild Turkey’s liqueur. Intense honey notes, with light orange flower undertones. Not as cloying as so many of these honeyed whiskey liqueurs, and after all the regular whiskey, this is a winner of a digestif. Old review here, before this category took off. 71 proof. A- / $20

wildturkeybourbon.com

wild turkeys eddie and jimmy russell Tasting Report: Wild Turkey Whiskey Lineup with Eddie and Jimmy Russell

Review: Havana Club Anejo Rum 7 Years Old

Smoother and more balanced than the Anejo Reserva bottling of Havana Club, this version of the Club carries a seven-year age statement, and the difference shows.

This is a perfect example of Cuban style rum (fitting since it’s actually from Cuba): There’s a huge amount of rich caramel character on the nose, with a light wood backing. Take a sip and you get a rush of heat, then smoothness: Sweet molasses and caramel, cane sugar, and a bit of cinnamon character in the finish. Very light on the wood, it veers into sweet vanilla — but it’s never cloying and never overly sugary. I’m deeply intrigued by the older Havana Clubs, though I can’t much imagine this being significantly improved by any additional time in oak. Best of all is the price, though you’ll have to buy it out of the country until the embargo is overturned. Come on, Obama!

80 proof.

A / about $28 / havana-club.com

havana club 7 years old anejo Review: Havana Club Anejo Rum 7 Years Old

Review: Argentina Malbecs – Kaiken and Bodega Tamari

Two Argentine Malbecs go head to head today, showing just how variable this grape and this region can be.

2008 Bodega Tamari Mendoza Malbec Reserva is a burly, smoky beast, a brute that’s a real powerhouse of a wine. Despite a ripe cherry core, the wine tastes a little oxidized, strange considering its youth. Overall it’s a big wine, though a little clumsy. Cheap, though. B+ / $11 / tamari.com.ar

2007 Kaiken Mendoza Malbec is a richer, more nuanced experience. Made in a New World style, this could just as well be from California, with a fruit-forward body laced with cinnamon and an almost sweet, Zin-like finish. It’s a simple wine, but it’s still a great value for such a pleasant little wine. A- / $11 / kaikenwines.com

kaiken 2007 malbec Review: Argentina Malbecs   Kaiken and Bodega Tamari

Review: Dalmore 18 Years Old and Isle of Jura Prophecy Scotch Whisky

These two whiskys from Dalmore (Isle of Jura is part of its empire) were both launched late last year, but they weren’t available when Richard Paterson recently came to town to show off the Dalmore line. Recently he sent along samples of both for our review. Comments follow.

Dalmore 18 Years Old – Tastes younger than it is. Quite sweet on the attack, it offers a rich toffee character topped with woodsy notes. Sherry cask aging is evident — this spends four long years in sherry wood — which gives it a huge orange finish. That said, it comes across as a pretty simple whisky. I’d recommend it as a daily dram if it wasn’t so darned expensive. 86 proof. A- / $150 / thedalmore.com

Isle of Jura Prophecy – Sweet and fiery smoke assaults the senses as you sip Prophecy, its big peat character interplayed with brown sugar, salt, and old-fashioned barbecue notes. Like liquid chili, it’s a fun yet rustic whisky. It’s much less easygoing than the Dalmore 18, more of a warm-up-by-the-fire dram than something I’d recommend for summer sipping. 92 proof. B+ / $50 / isleofjura.com