Monthly Archives: May 2010

Review: Smirnoff Dark Roasted Espresso and Spiced Root Beer Vodkas

A new flavored vodka is not normally cause for celebration or alarm, but kudos to Smirnoff for doing something a bit different. These flavors may have been done before but the alcohol level has not. With its new espresso and root beer renditions, Smirnoff is releasing overproof flavored vodkas that hit a full 100 proof.

But… is there more here than just extra booze in the bottle? Let’s investigate.

Both are clear spirits and, obviously, 100 proof.

Smirnoff Dark Roasted Espresso may be a bit overdone with the name (“dark roasted,” really?), but the flavor is full-on coffee. I wouldn’t go anywhere near bitter, dark espresso — this is a sweetened and fairly light coffee infusion that will be familiar to anyone who’s had a coffee-flavored vodka or even a standard Kahlua before. The alcohol level is noticeable. This is a vodka with some burn, though it’s pleasant, not the kind of gasping-for-air finish that a lot of cheap, higher-proof spirits leave you with. Versus other coffee-flavored spirits, Smirnoff Dark Roasted Espresso doesn’t add much new to the equation, but if you’re dying for a little extra booze in your bottle, it’s a solid spirit. B+ / $17

Smirnoff Spiced Root Beer again has at least one word too many in its name, but again it’s an authentic root beer infusion that offers few surprises. The flavor is mild for something that goes out of its way to indicate “spice,” and the vodka is more obvious here than it is in the espresso spirit. Perhaps root beer essence just can’t measure up to 100 proof? Whatever the cause, the root beer that is there is perfectly pleasant, though hardly much of a challenge. B / $17

smirnoff.com

smirnoff root beer Review: Smirnoff Dark Roasted Espresso and Spiced Root Beer Vodkas

Review: 2009 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages

By my math, winemakers like to declare a “vintage of a lifetime” once every five or six years, but with Duboeuf’s 2009 Beaujolais-Villages bottling, this might actually be legit.

For the Beaujolais newbie, Beaujolais-Villages is not the same thing as Beaujolais Nouveau. The latter is an incredibly young wine meant to be consumed within the year the grapes were grown. Beaujolais-Villages is a broad term encompassing dozens of villages in the Beaujolais district, and B-V can include grape juice from just about anywhere in the Beaujolais region. Single-village wines are common, too, but Beaujolais-Villages is the broadest representation.

With its 2009 Beaujolais-Villages, Georges Duboeuf has created a wine that’s both unusual and interesting. The key distinguishing feature is that the jammy fruit common with Gamay-based wines is dialed down. Rather, on its core of fresh currants and raspberry, the wine is laced with fresh herbs, including rosemary and sage. The result is a wine that feels fresh and is easy to drink on its own but which carries enough body to stand up to food. Be careful, it’s a real gulper of a wine.

“Vintage of a lifetime?” That might be asking a bit much, but it’s certainly a winner. If you’ve never been a fan of Beaujolais, this is a great wine to try to see just what it can do.

(2007 is pictured; label is otherwise identical.)

A- / $16 / duboeuf.com

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Villages Review: 2009 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Villages

Review: Japanese Cocktails (Book)

I love the idea of Japanese Cocktails, the look of it, and the author Yuri Kato, who has obviously toiled for some long months to come up with a succinct list of Japanese-inspired cocktails that you won’t find in any other cocktail recipe guide.

And therein lies the problem with Japanese Cocktails: Unless you have access to some rare and obscure ingredients, you’re going to spend a lot more time dreaming about these drinks than you will making them.

Every page seems to demand something off the beaten path: Umeboshi? Shichimi Togarashi spice? Kabosu juice? I don’t even know what some of these things are, much less where to buy them.

But really, that’s OK. Many of the 60 or so recipes in the book at least lend themselves to substitution — if you don’t have sweet potato shochu you can always sub in whatever rice soju you can find; non-peated Scotch can sub in for rare Japanese whiskies — and even if you can’t they might inspire you to make something new. Don’t have yuzu juice? Try subbing in another fruit flavor and see what happens.

More coffee table book than indispensable bartending guide, Japanese Cocktails is a great gift for the cocktail enthusiast who thinks he’s seen it all.

B+ / $10 / [BUY IT HERE]

Japanese Cocktails book Review: Japanese Cocktails (Book)

Review: Marzadro Le Diciotto Lune Stravecchia Grappa

Ah, grappa. Brandy’s skunky cousin.

I’m still a bit lost on the appeal of grappa — which is made from grape pomace — skins, seeds, and stems leftover from the winemaking process, rather than the grape juice itself, as brandy is made.

But even I will recognize there are some fine grappas out there, especially those which have been aged in wood casks to mellow out the skunky funkiness that’s ubiquitous with this spirit.

Producer Marzadro’s Le Diciotto Lune Stravecchia Grappa is a rarity in the grappa world, made from the pomace of eight types of grapes, aged in barrels made from four different kinds of wood, and with each cask aged for a variable time ranging from 18 months to five years. The result is a complex blend of spirits that is unmistakeably grappa but which is at least a more interesting expression of this Italian national beverage.

Le Diciotto Lune is intriguing. The nose has that nutty, earthy character common among grappa, and your first few sips continue the experience. But as you continue to explore the spirit the grappa opens up, offering sweet vanilla notes alongside flavors of golden raisins, light sherry character, and dried apples, oranges, and peaches. There’s a lot of heat in this grappa (it comes in at 82 proof), so sipping is advised, preferably as you consume it slowly and in moderation after a fine meal.

A- / $90 / marzadro.it

le diceotto lune grappa Review: Marzadro Le Diciotto Lune Stravecchia Grappa

Review: Absolut Brooklyn Vodka

The latest Spike Lee joint has nothing to do with the movies but with vodka: Absolut’s latest entry into its city-themed series of limited edition spirits. Lee worked with Absolut to come up with the flavors infused into this vodka, and worked on the design of the bottle, which features an iconic “stoop life” scene of a Brooklyn brownstone, presumably waiting for residents to take up occupancy with an Absolut cocktail in hand.

This fourth installment in the city series isn’t quite as exotic with its flavorings, which have included black pepper (New Orleans), acerola (Los Angeles), and black tea (Boston), but it may be the most readily accessible vodka of the bunch to date. Flavored with red apple and ginger, this is a fruity and expressive spirit.

That said, it hardly cries out with complexity. The nose of this vodka (supplied as a sample by Absolut) comes across like the kids’ apple juice, and the ginger component is really only hinted at. The finish is long but on the saccharine side, not so much apple but applesauce.

This might work better in a cocktail — as all the city-themed Absoluts do — but despite my complaints, it’s actually palatable on its own. Not harsh, not medicinal, and definitely something they’d drink in Brooklyn. Queens too, probably.

B / $24 (1 liter) / absolut.com

ABSOLUT BROOKLYN Bottle Review: Absolut Brooklyn Vodka

Review: G’Vine Floraison and Nouaison Gins

In the beginning, there was just G’Vine. This upscale gin hails from France and is distilled from grapes, making it unique in the gin world, and its mild citrus-forward flavor made it a hit with Drinkhacker in the early days of the site — where it was one of the first spirits we reviewed back in 2007.

Now G’Vine is expanding its portfolio with Nouaison, another gin with a different character to call its own.

We got samples of both the original “Floraison” (green bottle) and “Nouaison” (grey bottle) to do a fresh little review of something old and something new.

G’Vine Floraison Gin, as our original review notes, is a milder style gin, with juniper as a secondary player. Lemon and orange are neck and neck here, with a muted juniper backbone that gives it more of a floral character (hence the name, perhaps), than an evergreen one. Still a winner and an easy pick for any cocktail, simple or complicated. This is a rare gin that is actually refreshing, not off-putting. 80 proof. A-

G’Vine Nouaison Gin has a more traditional aroma, and juniper is clearly more present in the blend here. The body is harsher, and the alcohol level is higher (87.8 proof), and it’s an obvious response to those who might have found Floraison too muted for their tastes. I’d say Nouaison overdoes it a bit in an attempt to dig toward London Dry style. Although there are some really intriguing characteristics here — an almost cocoa-like silkiness and a touch of leathery tannin on the finish, not to mention the intensity of the juniper and other spices — I find myself drifting back to Floraison as the night goes on. B+

each about $35 / g-vine.com

Review: Batch 19 Beer

Curious about that new brew on tap at your local watering hole? MillerCoors is testing a new beer called Batch 19 in just five cities (Chicago, Milwaukee, San Francisco, San Jose, and Washington DC) and in limited quantities.

According to the company, Batch 19 is based on a pre-Prohibition recipe found in brewery archives predating 1919. Available only on tap, we got a bottled sample just to give it a whirl.

Overall, I like it. It’s a refreshing amber colored lager with a distinct citrus character. The body is medium, with some creaminess, and the hops are very light and well balanced. The finish is pleasing. Overall, pre-Prohibition beer doesn’t really seem to be that much different than the beer we have today, and maybe that’s a good thing. Give Batch 19 a try next to one of your favorites and see if you can pick out how things have changed. You can find a list of bars that are serving the beer on the Batch 19 website (link below).

5.5% alcohol by volume.

A- / price set by bar / batch19.com

Batch 19 beer Review: Batch 19 Beer

Review: Bacardi Classic Cocktails Strawberry Daiquiri and Pina Colada

So-called “instant” cocktails don’t have to be bad. I mean, they usually are, but they don’t have to be.

Bacardi, which makes a pretty good instant mojito, has now released two new pre-mixed cocktail flavors, a strawberry daiquiri and a pina colada. As with the mojito flavor, these use real ingredients, not malt liquor and artificial flavors (well, not just artificial flavors), in the mix. Just pour over ice and you’re ready to go (and leftovers have to go in the fridge). Both are 30 proof. Here’s how they measure up.

Bacardi Strawberry Daiquiri suffers from the curse of most strawberry-flavored spirits products in that it tastes awfully saccharine and cough syrupy. Something akin to Hi-C, this concoction is bright pink (not red), you might not believe that this has real rum, lime, sugar, and strawberries in it. It’s not really bad, but anyone expecting something truly tropical will be disappointed. This tastes more like a cosmopolitan than anything else I can think of. C+ / $14

Bacardi Pina Colada is made from rum, pineapple, and real coconut water. Sounds good so far, and sure enough this bad boy is a much bigger success. While the color is more of a translucent, milky white and not the rich, creamy pearl of a real pina colada, it’s close enough for a quickie. The flavor is heavy on the pineapple, with coconut in more of a supporting role, but both are there and both are authentic, with no chemical grossness to be found. It may not quite look the part (blending it with ice will probably be more effective, but more work), it at least tastes about right. B+ / $14

bacardi.com

bacardi strawberry and pina colada Review: Bacardi Classic Cocktails Strawberry Daiquiri and Pina Colada

Review: Camarena Tequila

This tequila is just arriving in the U.S., but the family behind it (Familia Camarena, natch) claims six generations of tequila-making experience. Farmed in the Los Altos Highlands region of Jalisco, this 100% agave spirit arrives in two varieties to start (sorry, no anejo), both big bargains.

Both 80 proof.

Camarena Silver is intensely peppery on the nose, with hints of petrol and mint. The body is smoother than the nose hints at, with black pepper, agave, and a bit of lemon citrus. The finish is unfortunately a little watery, alas, which limits its utility as a sipper and largely positions it for margarita makings. B- / $20

Camarena Reposado is rested for two months in both new and used oak barrels, giving it a far different character than the Silver, despite an extremely pale yellow color that would indicate otherwise. (It’s perhaps the lightest color reposado I’ve ever seen.) It’s got more bite in the body, but it is successfully mellowed by vanilla and some sweetness, then the agave vegetal character kicks in and lingers on the finish. Not at all watery like the Silver, it has more complexity and is worth experiencing on its own. B+ / $20

tequilacamarena.com

camarena tequila Review: Camarena Tequila

Is Duty Free Ever a Good Deal?

International travelers, you know the drill: You can bring in up to one liter of booze without paying the duty on it. And if they have a special name for it (“the duty!”), that must be a lot of cash, right? Hence the existence of duty free shops in every international airport on earth.

But how much is the duty on wine and spirits anyway?

This took some research to uncover and I finally dug it up: Not much. About $2 to $3 per liter for most alcoholic products, after your first liter (which is automatically duty free).

Duty free shops promise to take the duty and any taxes out of the price for you, making your shopping theoretically cheaper. The catch, though, is that if you overshoot your one-liter limit, you still have to pay the duty yourself when you arrive home.

The bigger issue, though, isn’t the duty, it’s the prices. Just because a shop is duty free, doesn’t mean it will be cheap, and anyone who’s bought a hamburger at the airport knows how pricey everything can get. Duty free is no exception, and during my recent overseas jaunt I spot-checked several airports looking for deals. I found literally no wine or spirits on sale anywhere that were cheaper than I knew I could get them back home, even after taxes. And I’d have to lug a bottle halfway around the world. In some cases, the prices were much higher (like 50 euros (about $62) for a 1-liter bottle of Ron Zacapa 23 (about $40 for 750ml in the states, or $53 pre-tax for a liter).

Bottom line: Browse those Duty Free aisles to your heart’s content, but you’re probably better off shopping locally once you return home.