Monthly Archives: April 2010

Review: Eric Kent 2008 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Two hot-off-the-bottling-line wines from long-time favorite Eric Kent Wine Cellars.

2008 Eric Kent Chardonnay Russian River Valley is a wonderful Chardonnay for the non-Chardonnay drinker. Crisp on the attack but with a big and buttery body, it keeps the oak level to a minimum and lets lots of apple and grapefruit character come forth instead. A shiny and round finish makes it an easy-drinking, yet satisfying, white. A- / $40

2008 Eric Kent Pinot Noir Russian River Valley is a very light wine, almost too light to be honest, making it feel like it’s going to simply float away. Somehow it still manages to pack a lot of flavor into itself, with bright raspberry and maybe a hint of Burgundy-like leather in there. Good with food and on its own. A huge bargain. A- / $35

erickentwines.com

Review: Grey Goose La Poire Vodka

Pears are a tricky beast. Who eats pears on their own? Or even in a recipe?

And yet here we have pear flavored vodka from the mammoth success that is Grey Goose. What exactly does one do with it?

I’ve been toying with Grey Goose La Poire for a few weeks now and I’m still trying to figure that one out.

First, on its own, Grey Goose La Poire isn’t something you’re likely to drink on its own. In fact, if you drink it blind, you’re likely to think you’re consuming a banana-flavored spirit, not pear. The pungent fruitiness of banana, chewing gum, and vanilla are heavy in the spirit, and backed by a relatively medicinal-tasting vodka. Standard Grey Goose is, in my opinion, considerably smoother and has a fuller body.

As a cocktail ingredient, La Poire tends to be overwhelming. I used it in the recipe below, and that banana character was heavy again, even with all the extras. Tread lightly with it.

B / $30 / greygoose.com

grey goose staycation Review: Grey Goose La Poire VodkaGrey Goose Staycation
1 ½ parts Grey Goose La Poire
½ part Licor 43
1 part mango puree
1 part lime juice
½ part simple syrup
1 mango slice

Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake vigorously. Strain into a glass, garnish with mango slice and savor the view from your window.

grey goose La Poire vodka Review: Grey Goose La Poire Vodka

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&ct=res&cd=1&ved=0CAsQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.greygoose.com%2F&ei=Rju9S_uhO4HutAOT9e3yBA&usg=AFQjCNEgDixsfVbaPUOL2MT9aPabagS4Xg&sig2=4e8UPeOUYb-DlzutjO4gMQ

Macallan Auctioning Tastes of 64 Year Old Scotch for Charity

Want to try Macallan’s 64-year-old single malt (the oldest the company has ever produced), but don’t have the six figures to buy one of the few bottles from which it was made? Try snagging a 100ml taste from the company, which is auctioning off sample-size bottles in advance of a single bottle in a special decanter.

The first 100ml bottle sold for $6,700, with proceeds going to charity:water, a global water conservation and cleanliness program. The sample auctions are now traversing the globe, with the big decanter sale due in November.

From the press release:

Iconic luxury brands The Macallan and Lalique have come together again on the 150th anniversary of Rene Lalique’s birth, building on their highly successful partnership to produce a one-of-a-kind decanter, created by the ancient “cire perdue” or “lost wax” method. This decanter will hold the oldest and rarest Macallan ever bottled by this highly regarded distillery. The Macallan in Lalique Cire Perdue decanter contains a 64 years old Macallan single malt whisky, destined for final auction by Sotheby’s on November 15, 2010 in New York. All of the proceeds of this remarkable piece will be donated to charity: water, a non-profit organization bringing clean and safe drinking water to people in developing nations.  In an eight month traveling exhibit and fundraising journey, The Macallan in Lalique: Cire Perdue decanter will travel around the world from Paris to New York via Madrid, London, Moscow, Seoul, Hong Kong, Johannesburg, Taipei, Shanghai, Singapore and Tokyo.

The 64 years old Macallan has been vatted together from three casks, all built from sherry seasoned Spanish oak. The first was filled in 1942, the second in 1945 and the third in January 1946, from which the age of this great Macallan has been taken.

This Macallan is so rare for a couple of reasons; firstly The Macallan is widely recognized as one of the few single malts which can mature to a great age without losing its character to the powerful influence of Spanish oak maturation casks, seasoned with sherry, for which The Macallan is particularly well-known. The Macallan’s rich, oily spirit ensures the whisky achieves a balance and depth of aromas and flavours over many years in these casks, a balance often sought, but rarely achieved; secondly, this is the oldest Macallan ever released by the distillery in its 186 year history. Prior to the release of this 64 years old Macallan in the Cire Perdue decanter, the previous oldest Macallan released by the distillery was the 60 years old, distilled in 1926 and bottled in 1986, of which only forty bottles were ever produced.

The decanter has been designed at Lalique’s Design Studio in Paris, based upon a ship’s decanter of the 1820’s, the decade in which The Macallan was founded, in 1824. Lalique’s designer felt the shape lent itself perfectly to the beautifully crafted panorama of The Macallan estate by the river Spey, in north east Scotland.

The decanter itself has been created by the lost wax process, an ancient practice originally developed to cast large pieces in bronze. After first modelling a piece in wax, it is covered with plaster and then sent to the oven to bake the clay while the wax melts. Finally, molten crystal is poured in the emptied shape.  Up until 1930, Rene Lalique himself crafted glass pieces using the Cire Perdue technique, but abandoned it as arthritis increasingly affected his fingers.

Today, investing in the artistic and technical training of its artists to master again this extraordinary know-how, a new workshop has been created on the 150th anniversary of Rene Lalique’s birth in 1860, dedicated entirely to the ‘lost wax’ process, to make the first Cire Perdue pieces in eighty years, including The Macallan 64 years old in Lalique. Every piece is unique. Complex, time consuming and costly, the process is reserved for the ultimate pieces. The technique brings to light a fineness of detail never seen before and a unique texture that is likened to a « crystal skin, giving each piece a truly realistic and vivid aspect.

The Macallan is the most sought after of all single malt whiskies in the rare whiskies auction market; a 60 years old Macallan, distilled in 1926, sold for US$75,000 to a South Korean buyer in 2005. As the Cire Perdue decanter contains a 64 years old Macallan, the oldest and rarest ever released by the distillery, the extraordinary price for the 1926 is likely to be surpassed.

Final Macalln 64 in Lalique CP black bkgrnd Macallan Auctioning Tastes of 64 Year Old Scotch for Charity

Review (of a sort): Mount Everest Whisky

Chances are you’ll never encounter Mount Everest Whisky*, lest you decide to hike to Base Camp 1 by yourself. I certainly didn’t, but somehow this bottle made it back despite my laziness, and it’s sat unopened in a Marin cottage for years undisturbed.

Naturally when I encountered it over Easter weekend I had to crack it open, just to see what on earth Mount Everest Whisky was all about.

At it’s heart, it’s blended Scotch. The bottle claims it is a concoction of “Scottish whisky and Nepalese alcohol of the highest quality,” neither of which probably mean a lot. The Scottish component here is clearly very young, and the Nepalese alcohol, of who knows what origin, lends a hard medicinal character to the spirit and no body to speak of at all. At 85.6 proof, it’s got enough legs to get you up to Base Camp 1… but it certainly won’t get you to the summit.

It’s not altogether awful. There’s some maltiness and charm in here, to be sure, but on the whole it’s a novelty whisky that’s probably not really meant to be consumed but rather to be admired and sealed forever.

* No, I’m not talking the Glenmorangie Mount Everest Special Edition, an unrelated spirit.

C / $??? / no web site

mount everest whisky Review (of a sort): Mount Everest Whisky

Q&A: Does Zinfandel Make You More Drunk?

Reader Sara writes: I hear drinking zin will get me drunk faster. True or false?

In the wine world, zinfandel has a bad reputation for making grown men and women into slobbering fools. Frankly I think the zin people enjoy this rep, but if you really look at the science of the issue, there’s not a lot to the argument.

Your average zin-basher holds that it’s the higher alcohol of zinfandel that makes it more drunk-tank-inducing. And yes, zin is almost always higher in alcohol than other varietals (especially European wines).

But in reality, the difference really isn’t all that big.

Consider a bottle of wine X that has a comparably low 13.5% alcohol level. In a 750ml bottle, that equals 101ml of pure alcohol.

Now consider wine Z (a zinfandel), with a comparably high 15% alcohol level. In a 750ml bottle, that equates to 113ml of pure alcohol. (I’m rounding to the nearest ml.)

The equivalent in “1.5-ounce shots of 80-proof whiskey” in a bottle would be:

Wine X: 5.6 shots in a bottle.
Wine Z: 6.3 shots in a bottle.

The difference: a measly 0.7 shots of whiskey. Split a bottle of zin between to people and you’re both drinking an extra half-ounce of alcohol over the course of the night, a couple of extra sips of booze.

That alone is not enough to turn a perfectly rational person into a raging alky.

But empirically, there is real evidence that zin drinkers do behave with more, shall we say, carefree abandon. Often in the form of sad public purging. Why do they do it?

My theory: Zin is an extremely easy-to-drink wine, a “guzzler” that even non-wine drinkers often enjoy due to its often bracing sweetness. It goes well with lots of food, and it’s easy to consume as a thirst quencher, so people tend to gulp it down faster than they should. It’s not necessarily the higher alcohol level that does those drinkers in, it’s the fact that they’re drinking twice as much wine altogether.

Just my opinion, of course. Now I have to get back to my Ripple.

Review: 2006 Blason d’Aussieres Corbieres

Blason dAussieres corbieres Review: 2006 Blason dAussieres CorbieresA Languedoc wine from the Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) empire, this dark red is composed of syrah, mourvedre, grenache, and carignane grapes. Nothing very special, Lafite says it chooses the grapes for this wine to be “mature, fresh, supple, and fleshy” — terms which don’t mean a whole lot and which are a little contradictory, actually. In reality, this Corbieres is young, tart, and on the jammy side, with little of the varietal character that those Rhone grapes would indicate. Fairly harmless, but feels largely like a wasted effort.

B- / $20 / lafite.com

Review: Super Sake Smackdown

Is sake making a comeback?

For whatever reason, Drinkhacker HQ has been flooded with the stuff of late. The intricacies of sake styles are too involved and complex to go into here, so if you’re interested in the differences between, say, junmai and ginjo, I’ll refer you to this Wikipedia article.

Here’s our look at six new and classic sakes on the market — and one plum wine just for kicks. Because, seriously, when are we going to want to drink plum wine by itself?

All sakes were tasted chilled.

Samurai Love Sake (Japan) – Surprisingly fresh, with crisp cantaloupe notes and a dry, medium body. The finish is lackluster, but otherwise it’s a solid sake, despite the gimmicky packaging (red bottle with intertwined “male” and “female” symbols on it) and the silly name. 15% alcohol by volume. B+ / $32 (720ml) samurailovesake.com

Gekkeikan (California) – Commonly available at restaurants and grocery stores, and nothing special. Sharp on the tongue, very mild melon character, and a flat finish. Made in Folsom, perhaps better known for its prison than its sake. 15.6% alcohol by volume. C+ / $8 (750ml) gekkeikan-sake.com

Gekkeikan Haiku (California) – Gekeikkan’s premium bottling. Quite a different character. Spicy attack, bolder body, and a warming finish. Bit of a fishy nose, though, and not entirely balanced. Considerably sweeter than most other sakes sampled. 15% alcohol by volume. B- / $13 (750ml)

Momokawa Diamond Junmai Ginjo Sake (Oregon) – Harsh on first sip, despite a lower alcohol level. Not much going on here, flavor-wise, though you’ll get cantaloupe notes if you leave it on the tongue for a long while. Finish is dry and mild. Disappointing. Widely available in Japanese restaurants. 14% alcohol by volume. C / $13 (750ml) sakeone.com

Konteki Tears of Dawn Daiginjo (Japan) – Complex, with huge melon character and a sharp, almost acidic body. Slight briny character, long and slightly sweet finish. Interesting but not fully balanced. 15.5% alcohol by volume. B+ / $39 (720ml) vineconnections.com

Konteki Pearls of Simplicity Junmai Daiginjo (Japan) – Good balance, freshly fruity with crisp melon and a moderately long finish. Good hints of sweetness make it easy drinking, yet with a bit of complexity, too. Favorite sake of the tasting. 15.5% alcohol by volume. A- / $39 (720ml)

Japanese Plum Gekkeikan (Japan) – Despite the same name, this Gekkeikan is actually from Japan, while Gekkeikan sake is from the United States. No matter. This plum wine is medicinal, almost sickly sweet, and difficult to choke down in any but the smallest of sips. Yeah, tastes like plum juice mixed in with red wine that’s gone off. Not a fan. 13% alcohol by volume. D+ / $13 (750ml) gekkeikan.co.jp

Review: 2007 J Vineyards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley

Textbook California pinot. Fresh cherries, just a hint of earth and stone, and a lightly floral finish. Somewhat thin body, and light on the tongue, but great on its own, especially as an appetite-whetting aperitif. Really worth a try.

A- / $35 / jwine.com

j vineyards 2007 rrv pinot noir Review: 2007 J Vineyards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley

Where the Bar Meets Wall Street

Not content with the prices on the drinks menu? New York’s Exchange turns drink prices into a trader’s delight.

After a brief conversational detour to boast about the size of his manhood, Sean explains how he and his friend from rival bank Citigroup come to have six drinks lined up in front of them. “We’ve been buying Coors Light HARD,” he shouts. “It’s selling at UNPRECEDENTED LEVELS.” The pair started the night on Stella Artois, but switched when the price of the Belgian beer got too racy.

At Exchange, the bar prices scroll along a digital ticker above the bar staff’s heads. Guinness is a bargain, $5 (£3.28) and on the way down. Ketel One vodka has just ticked 75 cents higher, a group down the other end of the bar clearly having gone crazy. The bar food looks pretty stable at the moment, but you’ll not want to take your eye off the market.

“We want the atmosphere to be like the stock market,” says Levent Cakar, one of the owners. “Except, unlike the stock market, nobody is going to have any stress or lose any money.”

Sounds… er, like a really stressful way to spend a night out.

Review: 2007 Concannon Conservancy Petite Sirah Livermore Valley

Conservancy is a second label wine from Concannon, known for budget label bottlings. Conservancy wines come exclusively from the Livermore Valley, “protected forever from urban encroachment.”

This first vintage under the label, however, is lacking much depth. A petite sirah, it’s a dark purple in color and is jammy with currants and plums to the point of cloying. Some lavender herbaciousness adds a touch of complexity, but a thin, saccharine finish hardly inspires another sip.

C / $15 / concannonvineyard.com

concannon conservancy petite sirah 2007 Review: 2007 Concannon Conservancy Petite Sirah Livermore Valley