Monthly Archives: March 2010

Tasting Report: Tre Bicchieri Italian Wines 2010

Posted on March 1, 2010 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

Gambero Rosso puts on a tasting event of its most highly rated Italian wines — tre bicchieri, or three glasses — every year. I was fortunate to be able to sample 41 different wines from this elite event, with wines from all over the country.

There’s no rhyme or reason to what’s on tap at Tre Bicchieri — everything from Prosecco to Barolo to Nero d’Avola can be found in the aisles here. As such, I’ll leave any broad generalizations about vintages or varietals to your analysis of my ratings. A special note however for 2005 Benanti Il Drappo, a modestly priced Nero from Sicily that had everything I love to get out of that grape and more.

2010 Tre Bicchieri Italian Wines Summary Report

2004 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Campolongo di Torbe / B+

2006 Nino Negri Valtellina Sfursat 5 Stelle / B / vegetal

2006 Nino Negri Valtellina Sfursat / A-

2006 Isole e Olena Cepparello / B+

2007 Feudo Maccari Saia / B+

2006 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d’Asti Sup. Nizza La Court / C-

2005 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio / A-

2004 Tenuta la Fuga – Folonari Brunello di Montalcino / B- / barnyard notes

2006 Tenuta la Fuga – Folonari Cabreo il Borgo / B+

2006 Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri Sassicaia / B+

2007 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto / B

2005 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato / A-

2006 Particaia Montefalco Sagrantino / A-

2005 Germano Barolo Cerretta / B+

2005 Germano Barolo Prapo / B

2004 Giancarlo Travaglini Gattinara Riserva / A- / great balance

2008 Planeta Cometa / B+ / lighter viognier style

2000 Ferrari Trento Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore Brut / B / apple juice like

2007 Petrolo Galatrona / A- / 100% merlot, surprising

2005 Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole / A-

2008 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano A.A. Sauvignon St. Valentin / B-

2006 Antinori Tignanello / A-

2005 Antinori Barolo Bussia Prunotto / B-

2005 Sant’Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli / B+ / mint and rosemary character

2008 Nino Franco Valdobbiadene Grave di Stecca Brut / B

NV Nino Franco Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut Rostico / A- / like SweetTarts

2005 Bridaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. / A-

2004 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino / B

2008 Pra Soave Cl. Monte Grande / B-

2006 Sapaio Bolgheri Sapaio Sup. / B-

2006 Benanti Etna Rosso Serra della Contessa / A-

2005 Benanti Il Drappo / A / incredible balance

2006 Fattoria Felsina Fantalloro / B-

2004 Oddero Barolo Mondoca di Bussia Soprana / A-

2005 Allegrini – Corte Giara Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. / A- / plum and cherry

2006 Allegrini – Corte Giara W. Dedicato a Walter / B

2008 Cantina Tramin A.A. Gewurztraminer Nussbaumer / C+ / you don’t hear about a lot of Italian Gewurz… there’s a reason for that

2005 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolo / A-

2007 Di Majo Norante Molise Aglianico Contado Ris. / B+ / big cocoa finish

2007 Librandi Ciro Rosso Duca Sanfelice Ris. / C-

2005 Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. / B+ / very sweet, with a maple syrup character

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Posted in Reviews, Wine

Review: 2007 Rocca Family Vineyards Bad Boy Red Napa Valley

Posted on March 1, 2010 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

As a general rule of thumb, I never drink wine with a picture of a cowboy on the label*. Rocca Family Vineyards’ Bad Boy Red just might deserve an exemption from that rule, however.

This red wine is a blend of 40% cabernet sauvignon, 33% cabernet franc, 17% merlot, and 10% petit verdot. That should raise an eyebrow: That’s a lot of cab franc in a blend, but it serves to add complexity to what might otherwise be a relatively simple wine, all from estate vineyards of the Rocca family.

It’s an approachable wine today, far fruitier than you’d expect, with an almost zin-like jam character to it, braced by some herbal character — rosemary and sage, mostly. There’s not much body here, however, and that’s a shame. 2007 Bad Boy Red is lighter than its varietal components would indicate, and it has no tannic backbone. Tis a pity. This is not so much a bad boy as it is a naughty toddler in need of a time out.

B / $32 / roccawines.com

* The “cowboy” on the label is actually a medical doctor, the husband of Mary Rocca, who provides palliative AIDS care in Malawi, Africa.

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Posted in Rated B, Reviews, Wine

Review: Deschutes Brewery Jubel 2010

Posted on March 1, 2010 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

I love a beer with a story behind it. Jubel 2010 — as explained to me personally by Deschutes brewmaster Larry Sidor — has a doozy.

The story begins 20 years ago, when a burglar attempted to run off with a keg of Deschutes’ annual Jubelale in the dead of winter, failing to realize just how heavy the thing was. He didn’t get far, and later the keg was discovered buried in the snow, half frozen, half highly concentrated “Jubelale on steroids.” The brewery then thought to try to recreate this beer without involving a night in the frost, and a “Super Jubel” was ultimately born.

Aged in old Oregon pinot noir wine barrels, Jubel 2010 is only the second recreation of the “Super Jubel” legend, the last being in 2000, thus the “once a decade ale” moniker. Intended to be cellared in bottle for at least a year, I tried one this weekend — and have one more bottle hanging tight til 2011 hits.

At 10 percent alcohol, it is indeed a weighty experience, a “big” beer that is nonetheless easy and pleasant to drink. Not as bitter as you’d think, it’s got a rich cocoa-shell character, lots of wood, and a wine-like finish. I liked it pretty cold; others drinking with me felt it stood up better with a little more warmth. All around: A massive hit that vanished all too quickly. How will we manage another year before we try it again?

Grab your bottle while you can!

A / $13 per 22-oz. bottle / deschutesbrewery.com