Monthly Archives: February 2010

Review: Donnafugata Wines

Donnafugata hails from Sicily, drawing its name from the Italian novel The Leopard, whose estates bore the name of Donnafugata (literally “woman in flight”). Imagery and motifs from The Leopard play a part in virtually every wine that Donnafugata sells, but you can be forgiven for not delving into the backstory as you drink down the company’s wines.

I recently had the opportunity to taste the winery’s current portfolio. Notes for each of the six wines follow.

Donnafugata Wine Portfolio

2008 Donnafugata Anthilia / $15 / A- / ansonica and catarratto blend, a peachy/apricot/almost viognier-like wine with no oak

2006 Donnafugata Chiaranda / $40 / B+ / chardonnay and ansonica, perfumy and custardy; chewy; winemaker’s notes allude to “peanut butter” — try for it!

2008 Donnafugata Sedara / $15 / A- / complicated for such a simple wine, a nero d’avola blend; cherry jam, dark cocoa, and raisins, no oak in the winemaking

2004 Donnafugata Tancredi / $40 / B / 70% nero, 30% cabernet; cab is huge in this, with charcoal and smoke and heavy tannin; needs time to open up (thoughts from 2007 here)

2005 Donnafugata Mille e una Notte / $90 / A / 90% nero; complex; leather but doesn’t outpace the fruit, velvety mouthfeel, could stand many more years in the bottle (pictured)

2007 Donnafugata Ben Rye (375ml) / $40 / A / Donnafugata’s famous muscat, with honey, crème brulee, butterscotch, and a raisiny finish

donnafugata.it

donnafugata mille e una notte Review: Donnafugata Wines

Osmosis Online Interviews Yours Truly

Want to know more about me and Drinkhacker? Osmosis Online asked me a lot of questions to get to know the man behind the blog. This blog, I mean. Fun interview, I think.

Review: The Professional Bartender’s Handbook

professional bartenders handbook Review: The Professional Bartenders HandbookWhat a strange little tome we have here. All business, this book claims to offer “a recipe for every drink known–including tricks and games to impress your guests.”

Do professional bartenders engage in tricks and games? For most that I know, scowling is as close as they get to anything approaching a tabletop diversion.

The book begins with one oddity after another: Sections on what liquors you need to start a bar are fine (if limited — any professional bar will need far more than is listed here)… but it segues there from a section on wine and cheese pairings. For a book that includes two recipes for “Flirtinis,” it’s quite the strange addition to the book.

The meat of the tome, however, is the 1,500 recipes mentioned on the cover, and indeed The Professional Bartender’s Handbook is pretty comprehensive. Recipes are presented alphabetically, with no separation based on primary alcohol or other arbitrary categorization. This is a book for “looking up a drink quickly,” with 8 or 9 recipes per page. No photos, no history lessons on how the caipirinha came to be.

Overall the quality of the recipes are good, and the breadth is solid. That said, some key ommisisons make this book a tad suspect. One might conceivably be forgiven for including only a “Manhattan (Dry)” in the book, leaving the reader to figure out to sub in sweet vermouth for the dry vermouth in that recipe to make a regular Manhattan. But how a book like this omits any recipe for a Martini, well, that one even I can’t explain.

B / $15 / [BUY IT HERE]

Review: Blackheart Spiced Rum

Spiced rum continues to grow as a category as every distiller on earth realizes that Captain Morgan has been sucking down cash for years with no competition. This latest brand, Blackheart, comes from Heaven Hill, home of Evan Williams bourbon and Christian Brothers brandy. (Not to be confused with Black Heart Rum, which is a different product altogether from New Zealand.)

Sweeter by far than most spiced rums I’ve tried, it’s almost saccharine. Actual spices are elusive — I thought it tasted more like coconut-flavored suntan lotion than anything else — with an apple-cinnamon finish.

Not my favorite spiced rum by a longshot, but those with a real sweet tooth may find it more palatable than I. 93 proof. Rum is sourced from the Virgin Islands. Price has been updated.

C+ / $16 / blackheartrum.com

blackheart spiced rum Review: Blackheart Spiced Rum

Review: Deschutes Brewery Hop Henge Experimental IPA

Part of Deschutes’ Bond Street series, Hop Henge IPA is in limited release through April, a strong beer (8.75 percent alcohol) with even stronger hop content. “Several pounds” of hops go into each barrel of this beer, with crystal, pale, and carastan malts dropped into the mix.

The result is intense and challenging: Very bitter up front with a bittersweet finish, all with a thick, oily consistency. Citrus character all around (which plays well with the copper color), plus pine forest-like notes here and there, very fitting considering the beer’s Oregon heritage.

From a balance standpoint I think Hop Henge is a little lacking — it feels a little like two beers mixed together rather than a cohesive whole. Something I can drink, sure, but I think Deschutes can refine this experiment a bit further…

B / $6 per 22 oz. bottle / deschutesbrewery.com

deschutes hop henge ipa beer Review: Deschutes Brewery Hop Henge Experimental IPA

Tasting Highland Park 1968 Limited Edition (and Cheese!)

It’s not every day I get to sample a four-figures-a-bottle whiskey. This week I got to try two side by side.

Highland Park brought out its newest bottling — the vintage-dated 1968 Limited Edition (bottled in 2008, it’s a 40-year-old whisky) — which is on the cusp of being released into the wilds. At $4,000 a bottle, it’s twice the price of HP’s 40 Year Old bottling and likely to be considerably rarer: 1,550 bottles, give or take, are being produced, and that’s that. (Highland Park’s last vintage-dated whisky was the 1958 Limited Edition, 665 bottles of which were released in 1998.)

But before we delved into the 1968, Highland Park brand ambassador Martin Daraz — ever a character to chat with — led us through four other HP expressions, Highland Park 18, 25, 30, and 40 Years Old. And, in a bit of an experiment, each whisky was paired with a cheese. A traditional pairing in Scotland, it’s not something I’ve often done, and the experience was quite informative and, I should add, delicious. Favorite pairing: buttery and sharp Abbaye de Belloc sheep’s milk cheese with Highland Park 25, which wildly elevated my prior opinion of HP25, which always seems to be paired with sweet desserts instead of savory items.

But eventually out came the 1968 Limited Edition, and my, what a treat it was to sample this special whisky. Light and pale in color, one would never expect it to be so old, and the body continued this theme: With no heat (even at 91.2 proof), Sauternes-like notes, and honey sweetness in the finish, this lovely, lovely Scotch went down impossibly easy… with or without cheese. Gorgeous. A+ / $4,000

highlandpark.co.uk

Review: Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur

Immediate bummer: Upon pouring a bit of Solerno into your glass, Solerno turns out not to be bright red like the bottle’s appearance — and blood orange juice — would indicate (the glass is tinted, ya see) but rather nearly clear, like Cointreau, just with a slight yellow tinge.

Solerno is indeed just a spin on a triple sec, made in Italy from sweet blood oranges instead of the usual Valencias and such.

And Solerno is really quite good: Big kick of orange and clearly of the blood variety, but awfully sweet. This would be a great addition to any cocktail where sugar plays a role (in fact, you might throttle back the sweetness in your recipe if you sub this in for any triple sec), but it’s a little too sugary on its own as a digestif. And at 80 proof, it runs hot, too.

Overall, a very good liqueur, and worth a try for any orange enthusiast. Love the bottle, too.

A- / $35 / grantusa.com

solerno blood orange liqueur Review: Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur

Review: Erath Prince Hill and Leland Pinot Noirs 2006

Erath produces a surfeit of wines in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, primarily pinot noirs. We were fortunate enough to try two of the winery’s single-vineyard pinot bottlings (of which there are at least a dozen in total), both from 2006.

2006 Erath Prince Hill Pinot Noir Willamette Valley is a silky wine, rich with earth and ripe with tart fruit. It’s a little less evolved than perhaps it should be, but a curious coffee character on the finish make it difficult to put down. A- / $45

2006 Erath Leland Pinot Noir Willamette Valley is much racier, with lots of berry and some rosemary on the nose, and more fruit on the body. Easier to drink now, it’s got a little too much earth on the finish interfering with an otherwise very fruit-forward experience, but I can live with it. Easily, as it turns out. A- / $50

erath.com

Tempranillo Tasting with Ramon Bilbao

Tempranillo has always been a tricky grape for me, lacking a distinct archetypal style like you get with, say, pinot noir, cabernet, or even (to a lesser extent) zinfandel. Recently I attended a tasting from Spanish winery Ramon Bilbao, which focuses on tempranillo and a few Spanish whites to whet your palate with. Winemaker Rodolfo Bastida guided us through the company’s lineup, from sub-$10 everyday wines to its pricy reserve offerings… and proved that tempranillo really does come in all shapes and sizes.

Comments on the bodega’s lineup follow:

2008 Volteo Viura-Sauvignon Blanc-Viognier / $10 / B- / very herbal, with strong vegetal notes

2007 Volteo Tempranillo / $10 / B / earthy, with dark cocoa notes; simple and young

2005 Ramon Bilbao Crianza Rioja / $13/ B / jammy with a bittersweet edge, softened by 14 months in cask

2006 Ramon Bilbao Tempranillo Limited Edition Rioja / $17 / B+ / also 14 months in cask, but with a harder edge; big plum with an oak finish; better balance

2006 Cruz de Alba Crianza Ribera del Duero / $25 / A- / spicy, like a young Beaujolais; first bottle was corked; great value wine

2005 Ramon Bilbao Mirto Rioja/ $70 / A- / well aged (24 months), silky, with dark currant and balance wood; opened up nicely over time – my favorite wine of the day

2008 Mar de Frades Albarino Rias Baixas Val do Saines / $25 / B / crisp but also big, with melon and tropical notes; expensive for the quality

2004 Ramon Bilbao Reserva Rioja / $20 / C- / funky, tasted off

bodegasramonbilbao.es

Review: Rochioli 2008 Sauvignon Blanc & 2007 Pinot Noir

Rochioli Vineyards is known for limited releases of high-end pinot, sauvignon blanc, and chardonnay. While the next vintage is now coming on the market, we were lucky to get samples of its 2008 sauvignon blanc and 2007 pinot noir bottlings for review. Here’s how they stack up!

2008 Rochioli Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley is an extremely fruity sauv blanc, in a big almost New Zealand style. With fresh peach and apricot notes, it’s slightly sweet with a juicy body and a big finish. Easy to drink and recommended as a sipper before dinner. A- / $35

2007 Rochioli Pinot Noir Russian River Valley is a more complicated beast, with black pepper and earth on the nose, and a smoky bacon, boysenberry, sage, and rosemary character all strong in the body. This is a wine that drinks like a meal, and a three-course one at that. All I can think of is Violet Beauregarde. Worth its reputation! A / $65

rochioliwinery.com