Monthly Archives: November 2009

Review: 2008 Two Hands Gnarly Dudes Shiraz Barossa Valley

two hands gnarly dudes Review: 2008 Two Hands Gnarly Dudes Shiraz Barossa ValleyTwo Hands has a reputation as one of Australia’s most well-regarded wineries, and its 2008 shiraz releases are now hitting the market.

We tried the Gnarly Dudes bottling, made with grapes from Australia’s Barossa Valley, and found a true oddity in store for us. The big surprise up front is not the nutty and chocolaty character that many Aussie shirazes bear, but rather the intense herbaceousness in the wine. We’re talking serious herbs: Lavender and spearmint — it’s actual herbal to the point where it starts to interfere with the fruit, becoming almost menthol in character.

This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but it does make for a tricky pairing situation. It’s more of a food wine than you’d think, as the herbality mutes itself when it has to compete with something to nosh. Try it with heavily-spiced meats or veggies.

B+ / $27 / twohandswines.com

Review: Lagavulin Distillers’ Edition 1993

Last year Lagavulin released a 16-year-old special edition whisky and this year (2009) it’s continuing the cycle, offering a single malt double-matured in Pedro Ximinez sherry wood casks.

This is a smoother whisky than last year’s phenolic monster, more delicate while still carrying plenty of briny, peaty notes that Lagavulin is so well-known for. The sherry character is especially pronounced, giving this Islay malt a bit more balance than might otherwise be expected. Still plenty of bite on the finish, capping things off with a charcoal and caramel mix that’s hard to shake.

86 proof.

B+ / $110 / malts.com

lagavulin distillers edition 1993 Review: Lagavulin Distillers Edition 1993

Review: Bulldog Gin

Yes Virginia, they still make gin in England, despite all the Johnny-come-latelys operating out of the States and other countries.

In fact, you might say they still make the best gin in England, as time and time again these blokes prove that they can’t be beat when it comes to flavoring neutral spirits with the little berries off of evergreen trees.

Bulldog Gin is a quadruple distilled spirit, 80 proof, that hails from London proper. Infused with the traditional botanicals, it adds to the mix considerably by including in its ingredient list dragon eye (aka longon), poppy, lotus leaves, lemon, almond, cassia, lavender, orris, licorice, angelica, coriander, and of course juniper.

The result is distinctly gin but hardly something I’d call a “bulldog.” The spirit is actually quite delicate and mild, a harsh rebuke to the over-greened Beefeaters of the world. Picking out the flavorings is tricky. The juniper is certainly the strongest, but I also get a lot of lemon, then the lavender and the licorice. (But rest assured it’s not absinthy in any way.)

Best of all, Bulldog isn’t harsh but is quite smooth and easy to drink solo, rare for a lot of gins. Whether you’re a tonic type or want a slightly unusual martini, Bulldog is an excellent pick, one of the best gins on the market today and at a great price.

A / $25 / bulldoggin.com

bulldog gin Review: Bulldog Gin

Review: ResQwater

ResQwater is a clear beverage in a single-serve bottle, meant to be consumed “before, during, or after” a hangover… though the name would certainly imply it’s here to rescue you once you’ve already been struck down.

Sweet and a little syrupy, it’s fortified with N-acetyl L-cysteine, fructose, prickly pear juice, vitamins B1, B6, phosphorus, sodium, and potassium, all in a water base. It’s a rather simple recipe for what is usually a complicated category, but hey, maybe simple actually works better in this case.

ResQwater’s problem is not so much its taste — the fructose used as a sweetener is a little jarring, but palatable, and the “natural apricot tea flavor” is recognizable only through the tiny type on the label — but rather its consistency. It’s a lot thicker than it looks, syrupy and almost a little slimy in its character. That worked against me this morning when, feeling less than 100 percent, I found ResQwater was fine at first but soon became difficult to drink. Ultimately I gave up after finishing only half the 16 oz. bottle.

Yet maybe 8 ounces is all it takes. I wouldn’t say I had a crushing hangover this morning, but I was certainly operating at less than full strength. An hour later, I was feeling fine. Go figure.

B- / $14 for four 16-oz. bottles / resqwater.com

resqwater Review: ResQwater

Review: 2007 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Parallèle 45 Côtes du Rhône

jaboulet parallele 45 Review: 2007 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Parallèle 45 Côtes du RhôneParallèle 45 is one of the most venerable of French wines, a grenache and syrah blend from 25-year-old vines in the Rhone valley, and it’s usually something you can find for under $10 a bottle.

This 2007 rendition is no departure from the house style, a burly wine with a big herbal punch — rosemary and thyme — atop a massively plummy core. It’s got legs to spare, a wine that never fails to surprise me with its immensity.

And yet, it’s still a simple, food-friendly wine that anyone should enjoy. Beware, though, you’ll want to mind your purple teeth.

B+ / $9 / jaboulet.com

2009 Beaujolais Nouveau Arrives

November means Beaujolais Nouveau, and, as usual, the first Beaujolais through the door is Georges DuBoeuf’s two bottlings, the standard Beaujolais Nouveau and the more sophisticated Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau.

I tried both, with curious results.

First up is the 2009 Georges DuBoeuf Beaujolais Nouveau, the entry level expression and a rather crude wine, to be honest. Embarrassingly young, it’s more grape juice than wine, a blatantly jammy and far too fruity wine for drinking much of. C- / $10

The 2009 Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau is a more sophisticated wine, with the sweetness toned down but still plenty tart. This is a better choice for your Thanksgiving table or other holiday drinking experiences, big with Bing cherries but also bearing a touch of earth and balanced herbaciousness — and only a buck more expensive. B / $11

duboeuf.com

2009 Georges DuBoeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2009 Beaujolais Nouveau Arrives

Diddy Talks Ciroc

It’s rare that a humble blogger likes myself gets a solo audience with a cultural icon like Diddy, aka Sean Combs, Puff Daddy, Puffy, P. Diddy, and numerous other monikers.

AND YET IT HAPPENED.

That’s right, folks. Your humble Drinkhacker sat down mano a mano with the man who stands guard behind Ciroc to talk vodka and nothing but. Sadly, photography was strictly disallowed (I’m told shots snapped during the day are forthcoming), but nonetheless, I can assure you that I’m not washing my “Puffy hand” ever again.

Diddy is a man of few words but many opinions, and we talked about booze at some length, though his answers were invariably terse. How does he drink his Ciroc? With lemonade or pineapple juice, sometimes. His holiday recipe for Ciroc? Ciroc and Ocean Spray White Cranberry Peach juice, a drink he calls the Dirty Money. (Try a 1:2 ratio of booze to juice to roll Diddy style, maybe a little more juice…)

Where does his keep his Ciroc? In the freezer, always. And Ciroc, which Diddy claims will not give you a hangover, is always on hand — it’s in his standard rider.

Of Ciroc’s upcoming flavored vodkas (for which Diddy takes full credit — “I made ‘em.”), he’s partial to the coconut version… and who isn’t, really? A fan of Malibu, Diddy gushes about the smoothness of Ciroc Coconut, which he assures you does not “taste like cough syrup.”

How does one party like Diddy when funds are tight? Diddy’s suggestion is to go with an intimate gathering instead of a rager: 20 to 40 of your friends instead of 4,000.  But if you do want to party, he’s got some favorite towns in mind: Miami, his surprising #1, followed by New York City.

When asked what he thought of the San Francisco party scene, I got Diddy’s most abbreviated response I’d encountered, a barely audible grunt, a smirk, and a shake of the head, “No.”

Damn, I think we just got served.

Check out more Diddy remembrances from some of my friends who were also on hand and given their own audiences with the man: Laurel May, Margaret Ryan.

Humphry Slocombe’s Ice Cream For Adults

It’s called a “Secret Breakfast,” but tens of thousands of people seem to know about it: Ice cream from San Francisco’s Humphry Slocombe, which operates a tiny Mission shop with about 10 daily concoctions ranging from Blue Bottle Vietnamese Coffee (better than actual Blue Bottle coffee, IMHO) to Peanut Butter Curry to Pumpkin 5-Spice.

But the real draw here, for many it would seem, is Secret Breakfast, flavored with real whiskey and cut with corn flakes. Get it? Creamy and sweet yet almost overloaded with bourbon flavor (Jim Beam, maybe?), this is the real deal. In fact, it’s so boozy that, unlike Humphry’s other offerings, this one remains a little slushy out of the freezer, since the alcohol stays liquid at that temperature.

But God it’s good. Although I might suggest Rice Krispies in lieu of the corn flakes (and perhaps more of them), this is a whiskey-drinker’s dessert through and through. I enjoyed all of the ice creams I tried (the staff will let you sample them all if you’d like), but this one clearly takes the cake. (I’ve also got a soft spot for the Chocolate Malted Milk, I have to admit.)

It’s also not the only boozy ice cream in the freezer: Slocombe has another confection made with wort, or “pre-beer,” which was unusual and delicious. Also on the menu: Tiny ice cream sandwiches made with foie gras ice cream. Decadent? You better believe it.

Worth the trip, especially if you don’t have to try to spell it!

humphryslocombe.com

humphry slocombe secret breakfast Humphry Slocombes Ice Cream For Adults

Review: Evan Williams Single Barrel Bourbon 2000 Vintage

Here’s an outstanding return to form for Evan Williams’ Single Barrel bourbons, which the company’s been bottling for years, an amazing whisky that I highly recommend.

The 2000 Single Barrel shares a lot of DNA with the 1999, but while last year’s version is noteworthy for its lightly bitter, wood and charcoal finish, the 2000 is as smooth as can be. As with the ’99, there’s lots of honey, vanilla, and caramel in the body, but here an orange character is at play on the palate, with some floral notes and even a little herbal character. The finish is smooth and easy, a perfectly balanced whiskey at a ridiculously affordable price.

Sampled from barrel #1, bottled on 10/29/2009. 86.6 proof.

A+ / $26 / evanwilliams.com

evan williams single barrel bourbon 2000 Review: Evan Williams Single Barrel Bourbon 2000 Vintage

Review: Deschutes Brewery Hop Trip (2009)

The 2009 edition of Deschutes’ seasonal brew, Hop Trip, is a nice little pale ale. Really easy drinking, but with a good slug of bitter hops character. On first blush it’s strong, almost IPA style, but it quickly settles down into a more nuanced style, with a surprising bit of honey and citrus-like sweetness in the body. The finish is mild and refreshing, leaving you wanting more… and in a 22-ounce bottle, there’s plenty to be had.

By the way, the hop trip is a real thing where the beer makers actually visit farms to find fresh hops for use in the brew. Check out photos of the brewers’ annual excursion this year here.

A- / $5.50 per 22-oz. bottle / deschutesbrewery.com

hop trip deschutes Review: Deschutes Brewery Hop Trip (2009)