Monthly Archives: November 2009

Review: Black Bull Blended Scotch Whisky 12 Years Old

black bull 12 years old Review: Black Bull Blended Scotch Whisky 12 Years OldSlogan: 50% malt, 50% grain, 50% abv.

This whisky from the independent bottlers at Duncan Taylor and Co. is half malt whisky and half grain, and far better than that pedigree might imply. Normally blended Scotch is relegated to the second tier of the whisky world, but this is a real knockout of a whisky.

Deep with sweet honey, vanilla, and sherry character but infused with peaty smokiness, it’s a whisky that has a little something for everyone. The nose is light but the attack is big and burly — yet perfectly balanced with this smokiness and brine laced throughout. That smoke lingers on the finish, but never becomes bitter in the slightest, with a touch of honey coming back at the very end, enticing you into another sip… which I certainly obliged until my sample bottle was sadly gone.

100 proof.

A / $54 / blackbullwhisky.com

Original Recipe: The Bull Ku Cocktail

Made this for company, to rousing applause — to take advantage of Bulldog gin, one of my new favorites, and Ty Ku liqueur. The cool, light green color didn’t come across in my photo, alas…

The Bull Ku Cocktail
1 1/4 oz. Bulldog gin
1/2 oz. Ty Ku (original) liqueur
Prosecco or cava

Shake the gin and Ty Ku with ice and strain into a cocktail glass or champagne flute. Top with prosecco or cava.

bull ku cocktail Original Recipe: The Bull Ku Cocktail

Review: Purista Instant Mojito Mixes

Premixed cocktails are always a dicey proposition, and Purista’s two new mixers probably aren’t going to win any overnight fans.

Offering two spins on a theme — a traditional Mojito and a Blackberry Mojito — these mixes promise they are “hand-crafted” creations made with premium ingredients: In the case of the former, all-natural ingredients including sugar cane juice, mint leaves, key lime juice, and natural flavors.

Surprise then that, when mixed in the proportions recommended by the bottle (1 part mix, 1 part white rum, 2 parts club soda), a Purista Mojito doesn’t taste like much. In my experiments, it mostly tasted like club soda, maybe with the lightest touch of rum and lime. Really no mint at all. Doubling up on Purista mix helped, but quickly caused me to overdo it, turning the normally refreshing mojito cocktail into something far too sweet — and again, lacking in mintiness. C+

The Blackberry Mojito mix (a deep purple which adds blackberry juice as its only additional ingredient) is even less forgiving, sour in small proportions and worse in larger ones. While the standard Purista can be doctored, this one doesn’t work no matter what you do to it. D+

$10 per 750ml bottle / puristacocktails.com

Drinkhacker’s 2009 Holiday Gift Guide – Best Alcohol/Spirits for Christmas

Booze: The gift that keeps on giving, whether you like it or not. It’s now tradition at Drinkhacker to look back at the best new spirits of the year, offering our suggestions on our favorite tipples — and the stuff that’s most likely to impress your holiday giftee should he find a neatly wrapped bottle under the tree. As always, we’ve tried to offer suggestions in a variety of price ranges, with a focus on spirits a bit out of the ordinary — as long as, no matter what the price, it’s the best stuff on the shelf.

Also check out our 2008 holiday guide.

Bourbon – Old Rip Van Winkle Family Reserve 23 Years Old (2009 Edition) – $350 – A hugely expensive and hugely delicious bourbon that will impress your giftee until he’s three sheets to the wind. More affordable choices include Evan Williams Single Barrel 2000 Edition, a complete steal at $26, or the always-good George T. Stagg limited edition bourbon; the 2009 is a real standout.

macallan 1824 4 bottle lineup 274x300 Drinkhacker’s 2009 Holiday Gift Guide – Best Alcohol/Spirits for ChristmasScotch – Macallan 1824 Collection — prices vary — This collection of four different whiskys was bviously not distilled in 1824 (it’s just an homage), but your giftee doesn’t have to know that. For a real splurge: Laphroaig 25 Years Old is a rare knockout.

AbsintheVieux Carre – $60 - The absinthe craze is finally on the wane, and fewer new brands popped up in 2009 than last year. Vieux Carre, made in Philadelphia, is arguably the best.

GinBulldog - $25 – I love everything about this gin, which is light, fresh, and inexpensive. Also check out Citadelle Reserve, which is aged and unique — any gin drinker will find it quite the departure from Tanqueray.

Vodka – Any tea-infused vodka– less than $20 – Tea-flavored vodkas are the booze trend of the year, and for good reason, they taste great! Firefly and Jeremiah Weed are both outstanding. For a good unflavored vodka pick, check out Van Gogh Blue or Vermont Gold.

Rum – Appleton Reserve — $24 – You won’t find a better rum at this price level on the market. Brugal Extra Viejo is comparable in price and quality.  For Captain Morgan fans, hook them up with The Kraken and you’ll blow their mind.

bache gabrielsen hors dage 185x300 Drinkhacker’s 2009 Holiday Gift Guide – Best Alcohol/Spirits for ChristmasBrandy – Bache-Gabrielsen Hors d’Age Cognac — $400 – Not just a killer cognac, it’s the best sub-$1,000 spirit I tried this year. I have one, sad, half-ounce drop left in the sample I received at the end of September. I can’t bring myself to finish it off.

TequilaCasa Noble - $40 to $60 – This line of tequilas is both delicious across the board, from blanco to anejo, and the bottles are pretty enough to gift without wrapping. 901 is good for a silver. Or try mezcal: Mijes Joven is the best I tried in ’09.

Liqueur – J. Witty Chamomile Liqueur - $25 – Continuing the tea craze is this exotic and very spicy liqueur, flavored with chamomile leaves and other essences. For fans of the bitter stuff, look into Root Liqueur. I also wholeheartedly recommend just about anything from the Thatcher’s Organic line.

Need another custom gift idea? Drop me a line or leave a comment here and I’ll offer my best advice!

Review: Akvinta Vodka

Every new vodka that comes out these days has a gimmick (how could it not?), and Akvinta’s — which hails from the sunny shores of Croatia, which the company says earns it the moniker of the Mediterranean’s first luxury vodka — is this: It’s triple distilled and filtered five times, five different ways: Through charcoal, marble, silver, gold, and platinum.

Platinum!

Sounds like a waste of precious metals to me, but hey, maybe the proof is in the bottle.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, Akvinta is a pretty staid vodka. With a forceful medicinal character, this spirit, distilled from Italian wheat, doesn’t venture far from the beaten path. A touch of sweetness on the entry is present through to the finish, but it’s overpowered by the astringency of the vodka. Additional notes — some herbal character perhaps — are fleeting at best.

In any event, it sure doesn’t taste like platinum.

B- / $34 / akvintausa.com

akvinta vodka Review: Akvinta Vodka

Review: Nadared Vodka

Nadared is, as far as I can tell, the first ever anti-communist vodka ever produced.

No, seriously. It’s nada red — it’s not red. In fact, it’s made here in the U. S. of A. (in Mira Loma, California, actually), and all profits from the sale of this vodka go towards “institutions in oppressive political regions that champion the principles of humanity and individual liberty.”

We try not to get too political here at Drinkhacker — drinkin’ is drinkin’ — so let’s look at Nadared on its merits as a vodka.

Distilled from unspecified grain at 80 proof, this is a traditional vodka with a light medicinal nose, big antiseptic finish, and not much else in between. It’s comparably simple compared to some artisanal vodkas, but you’ll be hard-pressed to find much distinctive about it aside from its anti-oppression mission. The price is tough to beat, though, so no matter what your political leanings are, it’s certainly worth a look.

B / $16 / nadared.org

nadared vodka Review: Nadared Vodka

Review: Van Gogh Blue Triple Wheat Vodka

Why “triple wheat?” Because Van Gogh sources wheat for this vodka from France, Germany, and the Netherlands. Get it? Three countries. Triple wheat.

Distilled in Holland, this 80-proof vodka is actually pretty amazing. Very light and smooth, it’s got a very light sweetness that plays with flowery notes on the palate. There’s no harshness or medicinality here, just a smooth ride from start to finish that, shockingly, is even easy to drink at room temperature.

Van Gogh is known for its flavored vodkas, but this departure from its usual M.O. is more than worth a look.

A / $30 / vangoghvodka.com

van gogh blue vodka Review: Van Gogh Blue Triple Wheat Vodka

Herradura’s Battle of the Tequileros

Had the great opportunity to attend Tequila Herradura’s battle of eight Bay Area mixologists, each trying to outdo the other. Some photos of the event held at San Francisco’s Tres Agaves — including a live “harvesting” of agave plants… oh, the carnage — follow.

My favorite drink of the evening — Tony Devencenzi’s (of Bourbon & Branch) “Tequila Sunset” — didn’t win, but many curious tequila concoctions were on hand for the adventurous.

The judged winning cocktail was from Marco Dionysos of Tres Agaves is called the “Malabarista”:

Malabarista (Juggler) Cocktail

1 1/2 oz. Herradura Reposado
3/4 oz. fresh lemon juice
1/2 oz. Orchard Apricot liqueur
1/2 oz. Amaro Nonino
1/4 oz. Small Hands Orgeat
angostura bitters
1 dash Habanero tincture
fresh basil
egg whites

Muddle fresh basil in a mixing glass with lemon juice & apricot liqueur. Add remaining ingredients and shake with ice. Double strain into chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with angostura bitters sprayed through a horseshoe stencil.

The “crowd favorite” cocktail of the night was awarded to Chase Williamson of 21st Amendment and his “No Reposado.”

No Reposado

2.5 oz Herradura Reposado
1 oz Sarsaparilla/agave nectar infusion
1 oz Fresh Tangerine Juice
1 dash Fee Brothers Orange Bitters
20 whole coffee beans

The coffee beans are whole, not ground. The agave/sarsaparilla syrup is made with dried, chopped sarsaparilla soaked in equal parts pure agave nectar and water, for 30 minutes. All ingredients are combined in a pint glass, add ice and shake vigorously, double strain to remove all broken coffee beans, and tangerine pulp. The garnish should float on top of the drink. Glassware- 7-9 oz Martini. Garnish- Coffee bean wrapped in a tangerine peel, connected with a toothpick.


Review: Old Rip Van Winkle Family Reserve 23 Years Old Bourbon

23 years is epic for any spirit to sit idle in a barrel, but for bourbon it’s almost insane. Old Rip Van Winkle’s 23-year-old bottling (this sample is from the 2009 limited edition) is positively intense with wood character — and alcohol. It’s 114 proof, which is hefty, but I’ve had far higher-proof whiskeys that don’t taste nearly as powerful as this monster does.

Add water (and don’t be shy) if you want any hope of trying to crack this nut, but with a more agreeable alcohol level, Van Winkle 23 becomes absolutely charming. Intense with caramel and vanilla, once it’s been cut down in strength it’s got a long and graceful finish that goes on and on. Perfectly balanced with a light sweetness that isn’t overpowering, this is an old bourbon that anyone would do well tracking down for a very special Christmas gift.

A / $350 / oldripvanwinkle.com

old rip van winkle 23 years old Review: Old Rip Van Winkle Family Reserve 23 Years Old Bourbon

Review: Square One Botanical Organic Vodka

Is it vodka or is it gin? Infused with eight ingredients — pear, rose, chamomile, lemon verbena, lavender, rosemary, coriander, and citrus peel — Square One Botanical certainly looks on paper a lot more like a postmodern gin than the vodka it claims to be on the bottle.

Ultimately, labels are meaningless — all gin is really flavored vodka, in the end — but Square One Botanical is of note regardless of what you want to call it. All of those botanical ingredients sound like they’re going to lend this spirit an overpowering flavor, but Botanical is more delicate than you’d think. Very fragrant and perfumy, with the rosemary and flower ingredients the strongest on the nose, Botanical is actually more mild than you expect, although the same characteristics are also the most notable on the palate. A tricky finish — too much rose petal in the mix, perhaps — is the only false note, but that’s likely to be less of a problem when mixing with this vodka — the way it’s clearly intended to be consumed.

90 proof.

B+ / $30 / squareonevodka.com

square one botanical vodka Review: Square One Botanical Organic Vodka