Monthly Archives: October 2009

Review: Kahlua Coffee Cream Liqueur

Kahlua keeps expanding its product lineup, and the latest member of the Kahlua family is this limited edition bottling: Kahlua Coffee Cream 100% Arabica.

The recipe is pretty simple: Kahlua liqueur mixed with real cream and bottled for your convenience. It’s slightly lower in proof than standard Kahlua — 34 proof vs. 40 proof — and, of course, it’s a creamy, light brown spirit instead of the usual coffee-colored product of standard Kahlua.

Really what we have here is a convenient shortcut to a White Russian. Just add vodka and ice and you’re done. Kahlua Coffee Cream is fine on its own, but it’s nothing earth-shattering. The coffee character of regular Kahlua is watered down, and but the creaminess puts it into the world of, say, Bailey’s. In fact it has more in common with the latter than the former, which makes it an easier-drinking after-dinner drink than straight Kahlua, which can be a little rough.

Not bad, but really, you can do the same thing by just pouring a little half & half into a shot of Kahlua. No biggie, man.

Incidentally, refrigeration after opening is recommended.

B / $18 / kahlua.com

kahlua coffee cream Review: Kahlua Coffee Cream Liqueur

Review: Weihenstephaner 2009 Festbier

Weihenstephan claims to be the world’s oldest brewery. This is the company’s newest beer, a 2009 “Festbier” for this year’s holiday season.

Festbier is a relatively light, golden brew, but one that’s full of flavor. There’s rich maltiness on the initial attack, then lots of grain character and some robust spice on the palate that’s not overpowering. The finish is big and “German” — an Oktoberfest beer if ever I’ve tasted one.

5.8% alcohol.

B+ / $2.50 per 12-oz. bottle / brauerei-weihenstephan.de

weihenstephaner festbier Review: Weihenstephaner 2009 Festbier

Review: Mini Chill and iChill “Relaxation Shots”

Energy is for sissies. The future is all about the chillax.

Little two-ounce plastic shots filled with caffeine, taurine, and other ‘ines are all the rage, but the newer phenomenon is shots designed not to pump you up but to cool you down.

Two boxes of these things arrived on virtually the same day, both with “Chill” in the name. It’s probably recklessly irresponsible to down this much chilling power all at once, but that’s why we’re here: So you don’t have to. Here’s what it’s like to be this “chill.”

mini chill shot Review: Mini Chill and iChill Relaxation ShotsMini Chill Relaxation “Natural Stress Relief” includes Valerian Root, GABA, L-Theanine, and 5-HTP. I don’t know what most of that stuff is, but I do know it’s purple. The flavor is berry-like but mild, very lightly sweet via a light touch of sucralose, and actually pretty easy to drink. Do I feel relaxed after polishing one off? Yes, but I’m barely awake enough to finish typing this as it is. Nothing to do with the beer, I’m sure. B+ / $36 for twelve 2-oz. bottles / minichill.com

iChill Relaxation Shot “Blissful Berry” is a much different formulation, including Vitamins B3, B6, B12, B5, Valerian Root, Rose Hips, and Melatonin. While Mini Chill purports to be non-drowsy in its formulation, iChill specifically suggests it might knock you out. That’s if you can finish it off. The taste of iChill is horrible, to be honest, oversweetened to oblivion with a Stevia-based additive, with a bitter finish and a phony berry character. Tastes like medicine. Chilling medicine. D+ / $37.50 for twelve 2-oz. bottles / ichill.com

Does this stuff work? Maybe. But frankly a Melatonin or Valerian Root tablet might do you just as much good if you’re feeling a little too wired.

Review: Samuel Adams Fall Seasonal Beer Collection

Judging by that chill in the air, fall is definitely here, and that means a new batch of brews from Samuel Adams (and some old ones, too). Here’s how they stack up.

Samuel Adams Boston Lager – The original, and more bitter than you’d think considering how commonly available this has become. Light body, with a nicely bitter finish. Nothing fancy here at all, and with a sort of saccharine character to the sweetness, but easy to drink. B

Samuel Adams Irish Red Ale – Slightly sweet and very mild, also extremely easy to drink thanks to its pronounced caramel character. A thin body and weak finish make it less of a thrill than you’d hope for, but not bad. B

Samuel Adams Cherry Wheat - They don’t lie. This ale (brewed with wheat malt) is spiked with Michigan cherries, giving it a strong cherry character somewhere between Bing and Maraschino. I rather like this more than I’d thought I would — but the prospect of drinking more than a bottle seems difficult. Honey in the brew adds sweetness. B+

Samuel Adams Brown Ale – Not my favorite in this bunch, a rather tired-tasting traditional brown that’s not very bitter, and barely hints at caramel and chocolate in the body. The body is big enough, but the finish fades far too quickly. C+

Samuel Adams OctoberFest – A big German-style pilsner, with just a little hoppiness and a spicy backbone. Like Boston Lager but, as Emeril might say, kicked up a notch. Arguably the best beer in the bunch. A-

Samuel Adams Dunkelweizen – A dark wheat beer, with big smoky character and a dark color. A touch of cinnamon on the finish intrigues, but otherwise it’s fairly straightforward, if definitely worth drinking. B+

The sextet above are available as part of a Harvest Collection Variety Pack, about $15 for 12 beers.

samueladams.com

Review: “Art in the Age” Root Liqueur

It takes balls to launch a new herbal liqueur these days. Bittersweet amaro-type liqueurs are not exactly part of a category which has bartenders and consumers jumping up and down, clamoring for more.

But Art in the Age did it anyway, adding to their mixing bowls 13 herbs, spices, roots, and other ingredients — and the liqueur they’ve come up with — the alcoholic precursor to root beer — called merely Root, is a winner.

The bottle claims 13 ingredients: Anise, allspice, cardamom, cinnamon, spearmint, lemon, smoked black tea, wintergreen, clove, orange, nutmeg, sugar cane, and birch bark. Just reading that list it all sounds pretty good, I have to admit… like a killer Christmas cake, perhaps.

In the glass, it’s that anise which, as usual, comes to the forefront. A good licorice kick is ably abetted by the mint components, with a touch of the orange and lemon citrus peeking through behind. The spices — nutmeg, cinnamon — are also evident in wisps through the big finish.

Much sweeter than, say, Fernet Branca, Root is quite easy-drinking as a digestif and even with even the mildest affinity for anise should find this quite the drinking experience.

I like it.

80 proof.

A- / $42 / artintheage.com

root liqueur Review: Art in the Age Root Liqueur

Tasting Report: WhiskyFest San Francisco 2009

Big thanks to all who organized and publicized WhiskyFest San Francisco. Had a wonderful time and was dazzled by dozens of whiskeys… and I hope to try them all in greater depth in the coming months (some of the spirits sampled at the show weren’t even “finished” with their aging and bottling).

Bummed by the absence of a few much-desired spirits (Ardbeg Supernova) and distillers (Pappy Van Winkle), but it’s hard to complain when there was so much quality on offer.

My full rundown (with scribbled notes) of some 31 whiskeys (and a little cognac) sampled follows:

  • Tomintoul 27 Years Old / A / chocolate + marshmallows, always a favorite
  • D&M Wines & Liquors Caol Ila 15 Years Old / B
  • D&M Wines & Liquors BenRiach 17 Years Old Gaja Barolo Cask / A- / big wine kick
  • D&M Wines & Liquors Auchriosk 16 Years Old / B+ / hot as hell
  • D&M Wines & Liquors Duncan Taylor Glen Grant 37 Years Old / A / Tried last year, was one of my favorites then and it still is now, incredible spice and sweetness
  • D&M Wines & Liquors Scapa 19 Years Old / A- / candy, flowery, nougaty — quite unique
  • Glenmorangie Signet / A- / caramel with a touch of smoke
  • Glenmorangie Astar / B+ / big wood and smoke bomb
  • BenRiach Tawny Port 15 Years Old / B / hugely peaty
  • GlenDronach Batch 1 1992 cask 1140 16 Years Old / B+ / blazing hot
  • Springbank 18 Years Old / A- / balanced peat and sweet, like it
  • Duncan Taylor Lonach Glendronach 42 Years Old / B+ / surprisingly mute for a 42-year-old whisky, nutty
  • K&L Wine Merchants Gordon & MacPHail Highland Park 8 Years Old / B+ / needs time
  • K&L Wine Merchants Murray McDavid 2000 Caol Ila Ridge Zinfandel Cask / B / simple
  • Wemyss The Spice King 8 Years Old / B+ / as the name implies
  • Elijah Craig 18 Years Old Single Barrel Bourbon / B+ / flowery
  • Parker’s Heritage Collection 27 Years Old Bourbon / A- / big, good
  • Benromach Peat Smoke 10 Years Old (American debut) / B+ / simple
  • Gordon & MacPhail Tomintoul 1967 33 Years Old / B+ / big wood and spice character
  • Beltramo’s Highland Park 19 Years Old / B+ / crazy structure, huge
  • The Macallan Fine Oak 17 Years Old / B+ / easy honey character
  • The Macallan Cask Strength / B+ / also easy, with some earth to it
  • Highland Park 30 Years Old / A- / crazy good, nice sweetness
  • The Dalmore Gran Reserva / B+ / peaty
  • The Dalmore King Alexander III / A- / easy drinking, nice honey to it
  • The Glenrothes 1975 / B / bittersweet
  • Arran Malt 10 Years Old / B / medium peatiness
  • Arran Malt Pomerol Cask Finish / B+ / different, curious
  • Pierre Ferrand Grande Champagne Selection des Anges 30 Years Old Cognac / B
  • Pierre Ferrand Grande Champagne Abel 45 Years Old Cognac / B+ / a little bitter
  • Pierre Ferrand Grande Champagne Selection des Anges 70 Years Old Cognac / A- / very good, but no Hors d’Age

Apologies for the lack of pictures. Camera was wholly unprepared for the task. Next year, I promise!

Review: Bernheim Original Wheat Whiskey

Yes Virginia, they make whiskey out of wheat. Not all wheat, mind you, but mostly wheat. While Scotch is made from malted barley and bourbon is made primarily from corn, Bernheim Original is the only known whiskey on the market to use winter wheat as its primary grain. To be sure, wheat is a grain component of many other whiskeys (especially bourbons) — Maker’s Mark is probably the most noteworthy brand on the market — but it invariably takes a back seat to corn in the blend.

As you open it, you’ll find that Bernheim Original is instantly unique. The nose is reminiscent of rye whiskey, with a spicy kick that immediately takes you aback. But it’s surprisingly smooth after that initial rush of heat, offering muted pepper notes, big grain/fresh bread flavors, and a succinctly sweet finish. I wasn’t thrilled with the touch of bitterness that creeps in after that, meddling with what is otherwise a wonderful experience, but on the whole Bernheim offers a truly unique way to experience whiskey.

B+ / $45 / bernheimwheatwhiskey.com

Bernheim Original Wheat Whiskey bottle Review: Bernheim Original Wheat Whiskey

Review: 901 Tequila Silver

Most tequilas try to trick you into feeling nostalgic with their fancy, old-school bottle designs, calligraphied labels, and rich histories.

901 says to hell with all that: This is a modern tequila with up-to-the-moment styling. (Curious why? This is a Justin Timberlake project. No, really.)

The tequila, however, is indeed a classic experience. Available exclusively in a silver/blanco version, 901 is a smooth, sipping tequila made of 100% agave (and of course 80 proof). The approach is leads you to believe it’ll be a big and nasty experience — green on the nose with a distinct pepperiness. But 901 is surprisingly easygoing, a big slug of agave on the palate quickly gives way to a lightly sweet body, a very round tequila with minimal bite. The finish brings back pepper and fades quickly. Very easy to sip on this one, despite having no age on it.

By the way: Totally hate the rubber-and-metal stopper, which has a nasty tendency to pinch your fingers when you’re trying to jam it back in the bottle.

A- / $48 / 901.com

901 tequila silver Review: 901 Tequila Silver

Tasting Don Roberto Tequila

Don Roberto is a tequila that’s been made in Mexico since 1840. Now it finally arrives in the U.S., and the company had master mixologist Junior Merino on hand to talk teq (did you know: There are only 128 tequila distilleries in Mexico but over 1,000 tequila brands?) and mix up some delicious tequila cocktails taking advantage of all three Don Roberto expressions.

Some thoughts on the experience and the three expressions (all 80 proof and 100% agave, of course).

Don Roberto Blanco is a big tequila with lush agave and sweet potato notes, a touch of smoke from the soil, and big heat in the body. A little winter melon in there helps to round out a really rich spirit. A- / $45

Don Roberto Reposado was arguably my favorite of the trio, aged six months in new oak and complex with coconut, lemon, and hints of pepper and spice. The body is a little thin but not overly so, the finish a smooth and supple callback for continued quaffing. A- / $55

Don Roberto Anejo spends 18 months in oak and is surprisingly light in color, considering its age. Big baking spice and hefty coconut flavors are nice, but there’s way more heat in this one than in the Reposado, which makes it a tad less smooth. I like it just a touch less than the reposado, but it was perfect with Merino’s habanero-spiked homemade sangrita, heavy on grapefruit juice and light on the tomato. B+ / $60

Merino’s cocktails were universally good, running from the impressive to the elaborate — the Don Roberto Refresher has 11 ingredients, not including the salt rim — as were his bar snacks. Tequila-absinthe gummis, anyone?

tequiladonroberto.com

Preemptive Apology

For all whom I might offend tonight, I offer a preemptive apology in the style of these high-society Chinese gentlemen… from the year 856.

Click through for the elaborate original. Here it is translated…

Yesterday, having drunk too much, I was intoxicated as to pass all bounds; but none of the rude and coarse language I used was uttered in a conscious state. The next morning, after hearing others speak on the subject, I realised what had happened, whereupon I was overwhelmed with confusion and ready to sink into the earth with shame.