Monthly Archives: September 2009

Review: El Grado Tequila Reposado

Released this summer, El Grado is a new, ultrapremium, 100 percent agave tequila to arrive on U.S. shelves. Available in the three traditional expressions (and mainly in Texas for now), we got our hands on the reposado for a sample.

Rested for six months in old bourbon barrels, El Grado’s reposado is a pale yellow color and is heavy with the herbal character of the typical 100 percent agave blanco tequila. Give it some time to aerate in the glass and this character mellows out a bit at least, giving way to vanilla and butterscotch, clear after-effects of the charred bourbon barrel time.

Yet there’s something a little vegetal — more than just the agave character — that makes El Grado a bit of a disappointment, primarily on the finish, which ends weak and a little watery, almost like the final stage of a Bloody Mary where the ice has melted completely. Not bad, but not really the way you want to finish a drink — with a whimper instead of a bang.

B / about $50 / elgradospirits.com

el grado reposado tequila Review: El Grado Tequila Reposado

Thoughts on Clock Bar, San Francisco

Clock Bar is a hotel bar, yes. But you know what? I like hotel bars — good ones, anyway. They’re not as loud. Not as crowded. And the drinks that get made are often top notch. Plus you get to talk to random tourists, not just jaded locals. Good times.

After passing by many times, I finally hit Clock Bar last night, in the Westin St. Francis in San Francisco’s Union Square. Have to say, I wasn’t disappointed. The drinks — a grapefruit-tangy-tart Nevada and the San Francisco Sensation, which approximates an Aviation but with the addition of mint — were both inspired.

The liquor selection isn’t huge, but it’s solid (though while I was there two people were turned away because Clock inexplicably doesn’t carry Grey Goose). I finished the evening with hard-to-find 15-year-old Springbank single malt, a perfect whisky that I’d love to have more of.

The snacks are good — the truffled popcorn is legendary; could have done without the cheese popcorn in favor of a double dose of the truffled version — but I longed for a more extensive menu. Still, in San Francisco’s nosh-malnourished bar scene, anything is good.

Yeah, it’s a hotel bar. But it’s a solid one. Go.

michaelmina.net

Review: Deschutes Brewery Jubelale Winter Ale 2009

I’m the first to admit it’s weird to be drinking this “festive winter ale” during the week of Labor Day. No question. But Deschutes’ Jubelale 2009 arrives October 1, we got it early, and gosh darnit we’re gonna drink it now, even if it is still hot outside.

I went in expecting gingerbread and eggnog and came out with chocolate and fruitcake. This is a complicated yet surprisingly easy-drinking beer, dark and dessert-like, and with a good initial slug of bitterness. But your palate accepts that edge and soon embraces it like dark chocolate: Jubelale builds its after-dinner qualities impressively into a rich, full-bodied brew that nonetheless vanishes without much fuss — so many Deschutes’ beers can be so powerful that drinking them is a lot of work. I for one am shocked how quickly my bottle (12 oz., thank God), has vanished. And at 6.7 percent alcohol, I’m betting that’s going to be a problem later on.

A / about $8 per six-pack / deschutesbrewery.com

jubelale winter ale Review: Deschutes Brewery Jubelale Winter Ale 2009

Review: Evan Williams Honey Reserve Liqueur

Watch out American Honey, there’s another bourbon-inspired honey liqueur on the market, and it’s gonna be breathing down your neck but quick.

Evan Williams has turned in its own rendition on the honey-flavored liqueur, this one with the promise of “extra-aged bourbon” in the mix. It can’t be much — the color of this liqueur is a delicate gold — but it sure comes across on the tongue.

The nose really just hints at honey: The initial aroma is strong with citrus and a little bit of whiskey in there, too. The palate again reveals lots of orange character, and a moderate amount of honey. And then that extra-aged whiskey kicks in — a relatively straightforward, but rich, bourbon finish that plays on the tongue until the honey comes back for a final round.

Very smooth and easygoing, Honey Reserve is a powerful competitor to Wild Turkey’s version, again not too sweet and not too syrupy and definitely worth a try as an after-dinner digestif, on the rocks of course. Which is my favorite? By golly it’s neck and neck but, in the end, I have to give the slight nod to the newcomer, Evan Williams Honey Reserve.

70 proof. Arriving on shelves this month.

A- / $15 / evanwilliams.com

evan williams honey reserve Review: Evan Williams Honey Reserve Liqueur

Tasting Ciroc’s New Flavored Vodkas with Master Distiller Jean-Sebastien Robicquet

Ciroc is one of the big spirits success stories in recent years, and it’s now, according to the company, the #3 ultrapremium vodka brand on the market, after Grey Goose and Belvedere. (Fun fact: The name is made up, a combination of the French words cime (summit) and roche (rock).)

This week I had the opportunity to taste not just Ciroc’s upcoming flavored vodkas, but also the two eaux de vie that comprise the base of Ciroc. Proto-Ciroc, if you will. Ciroc is (famously) made from grape neutral spirits instead of being distilled from grain, and master distiller Jean-Sebastien Robicquet offered samples of the two specific eaux de vie that comprise the base spirit.

Ciroc is made from two grapes, uni blanc and mauzac, neither which you’ve likely heard of. If you think what exactly a vodka is made from is irrelevant, you’ve never tried this experience. Robicquet offered a watered-down grain neutral spirit (tastes like vodka and water, with a harsh bite), and we compared that to the two grape neutral spirits at the same proof. The ugni blanc might make a good vodka on its own — very smooth, with the lightest touch of wine character and a rich mouthfeel. Then there’s the mauzac, night and day vs. ugni blanc, with a powerfully herbal and floral aroma, huge almost like a dessert wine. Ciroc blends about 5 to 7 percent mauzac into the uni blanc base, then distills the blend one last time to create the finished product.

And yes, this history lesson gave me a newfound appreciation for Ciroc, which at full strength can be a bit harsh, but which works far better when cut down a bit or as part of a fruit- or herb-heavy cocktail.

Of course, that’s just part of the story, as in early 2010 Ciroc will release its first line extensions with two new flavored vodkas.

I got to try them both (both are 70 proof) and found them exceptional.

Ciroc Red Berry is flavored with natural raspberry and strawberry, and it has none of that harshness that you get in most flavored vodkas. Strawberry is more prominent in the mix, with a nice level of sweetness and a hint of that herbal, floral character that unflavored Ciroc has. Lovely. A

Ciroc Coconut should be self-explanatory but also comes with other tropical flavors in the mix. Why coconut? According to the company it’s the most-requested flavor from customers, so don’t argue! Very sweet, it’s got rich, chewy coconut flavor and again, some sweetness in the pineapple and possibly butterscotch arena. Like a high-end version of Malibu, with a more natural character. Also beautiful, something I can’t wait to try in dessert drinks. A

cirocvodka.com


Review: Cupcake Wines

Readily available at your typical supermarket, the Cupcake Vineyards label is a solid value for everyday drinking. Some thoughts on two recent varietals follow.

2008 Cupcake Riesling is extremely dry for this varietal, harvested from Washington’s Yakima Valley and fragrant with aromatics. Herbal notes give way to a curious collection of fruit flavors — melon, pineapple, green table grapes, and maybe some apricot. The finish is a touch astringent, making this pair better with food than as something to drink on its own. Not bad for the price. B- / $14

2007 Cupcake Petite Sirah is kind of the opposite of the company’s riesling, a fruity and jammy wine from California’s Central Coast that reminded me a lot of a zinfandel, but with a smoky, tobacco, cedar-box character beneath it. Quite enjoyable, with a touch of chocolate on the finish. Not terribly complicated, but sometimes simple is good, even in a red wine. Again the price is a knockout. B+ / $14

cupcakevineyard.com

Review: Absolut Boston Vodka

absolut boston Review: Absolut Boston VodkaAbsolut Boston is the third city-themed vodka from the massive spirits company, but the first of that bunch I’ve had the chance to sample. Some thoughts — before the bottle vanishes altogether.

Absolut Boston is flavored with black tea and elderflower, an interesting and overall quite successful combination. Everyone loves elderflower — you can’t turn around in a bar without getting hit by a bottle of St. Germain — but the addition of tea is what makes this vodka so intriguing. Yes, elderflower is strong at first sip, but the tea component comes along quickly after, and in fact starts to dominate the vodka within a few seconds. The finish offers a lightly bitter black tea character, which makes you rush back for another sip to get that sweet elderflower back onto your tongue.

As with most Absolut versions, Absolut Boston has a hard edge to it, a medicinal character that the company’s flavoring agents never manage to cover up. It’s textbook Absolut with a twist. And quite an interesting one. Try it in any number of cocktails (try this one) where elderflower liqueur is caled for.

B+ / $29 (one liter bottle) / absolut.com

Original Recipe: The Lemonparty Cocktail

Whatever you do, don’t Google “lemonparty.” This drink is not inspired by what you’d find (and likely be horrified by) if you did that. Rather, it’s the name of the group several friends of mine and I have in the video game Rock Band. Of course, the band name is inspired by the aforementioned website, but that’s another story. Band names are supposed to be rude.

In honor of the new Beatles Rock Band coming out September 9 and the reunion of the band last night, I created a Lemonparty cocktail just for the bandmates and its groupies. All around it was a huge hit (nearly an entire bottle of vodka was consumed), taking advantage of the new, limited edition Absolut Boston vodka (review here), which is flavored with black tea and elderflower. Delish!

The Lemonparty Cocktail
1 1/2 oz. Absolut Boston
1/4 oz. Limoncello
sparkling wine (I used cava)

Add Absolut and Limoncello to a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake and strain into a champagne flute. Top with sparkling wine and serve promptly.

 Original Recipe: The Lemonparty Cocktail

Tasting Report: Howell Mountain Wineries 2009

How’s this for a niche event: Only wineries from Howell Mountain, a small part of Napa Valley which comprises about two dozen winemakers. It’s one of the few wine events where I actually got to sample a wine from every producer in attendance.

Most Howell Mountain producers focus on Cabernet Sauvignon, but a smattering of Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel, and other varietals were on hand for tasting. Quality: All over the place, with some big hitters (Duckhorn)  turning out rocky bottlings, and a few smaller and newer wineries (Howell at the Moon, Tor Kenward, Dunn, and others) showing up with amazing wines. Love Cimarossa’s fruity Riva Di Ponente Cab, Lamborn’s smoky, zinfandel-like Cab, and Pina’s always-impressive Buckeye Vineyard Cabernet. My arguable favorite of the event: Neal Family’s Estate Cabernet, a perfectly balanced wine rich with depth.

2005 turned out to have the most impressive wines, pound for pound. Keep an eye out for this year as these Cabernets begin to appear more and more on wine lists!

Complete Report – Howell Mountain Wineries 2009

2006 Arkenstone Vineyards Obsidian / B
2005 Atlas Peak Howell Mountain Cabernet / C+
2005 Blue Hall Vineyard Camiana Cabernet Sauvignon / B+
2006 CADE Cabernet Sauvignon / A-
2006 Cakebread Dancing Bear Ranch Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / A-
2005 Cimarossa Ravi Di Ponente Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / A-
2005 Cornerstone Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / B+
1999 Cornerstone Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / B
2006 D-Cubed Howell Mountain Zinfandel / B-
2006 Diamond Terrace Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / B+
2004 Duckhorn Vineyards Howell Mountain Red Wine / B-
2001 Duckhorn Vineyards Howell Mountain Napa Valley Merlot / C+
2004 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet / A-
1998 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet / A-
2005 Howell at the Moon Howell Mountain Cabernet / A-
2006 Howell at the Moon Howell Mountain Cabernet / A-
2004 La Jota 23rd Anniversary Cabernet Sauvignon / A-
2004 La Jota Howell Mountain Selection Cabernet Sauvignon / B+
2004 La Jota Cabernet Franc / A-
2005 Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / A-
2005 Lamborn Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / A-
2005 Neal Family Vineyards Howell Mountain Estate Cabernet Sauvignon / A
2005 Notre Vin Cabernet Sauvignon / B
2007 Outpost Howell Mountain Zinfandel / A-
2006 Outpost Outpost Howell Mountain True Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon / A-
2007 Outpost Grenache / B
2006 Pina Cellars Howell Mountain Buckeye Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon / A
2006 Red Cap Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet / A-
2006 Retro Cellars Retro Cellars Old Vine Howell Mountain Petite Sirah / A-
2006 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / A-
2007 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / A-
2005 Roberts + Rogers Cabernet Sauvignon / A-
2005 SPENCE Reserve Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / A
2006 SPENCE Reserve Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / B+
2006 Summit Lake Emily Kestrel Howell Mountain Cabernet / A-
2005 Tor Kenward Howell Mountain Cimarossa Cabernet Sauvignon / A
2006 Tor Kenward Howell Mountain Cimarossa Cabernet Sauvignon / A
2006 W.H. Smith Wines Howell Mountain Bronze Label / C
2006 W.H. Smith Wines Howell Mountain Cabernet / B+
2004 W.S. Keyes Howell Mountain Merlot / A-
2006 White Cottage Ranch  Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / B
2005 White Cottage Ranch  Cabernet Franc Howell Mountain / A-

Review: Auchentoshan Scotch Whiskys

Next to Bruichladdich and Bunnahabhain, Auchentoshan is one of my favorite names in the Scotch whisky business.

The company (a lowland distillery) also makes some fine whisky to match its name. We recently got a hand on three of its more widely available expressions. Comments on each follow.

Auchentoshan Classic is the company’s entry-level whisky, a straightforward introduction to the house style, matured exclusively in bourbon casks and bottled with no age statement. On the thin side, this 80-proof whisky offers only modest character on the nose but opens up on the palate, giving off interesting coconut notes tinged with a bit of (not peat) smoke. The finish is on the watery side, not a lot to it, but quite smooth and easygoing. A great starter Scotch. B / $30

Auchentoshan 12 Years Old is slightly darker in color, aged (obviously) for 12 years in oak. Wood is stronger on the nose here, and nuts are big on the palate. Pistachio, almond, walnut — not so much smoky but straight up wood-infused. It’s lightly bitter but with a big sweetness in there too. Quite light in body for a 12-year whisky, it is somewhat less smooth than the Classic but offers more complexity. A good choice depending on your mood. 80 proof. B- / $35

Auchentoshan Three Wood is not a golf club but a quite dark whisky aged in bourbon barrels then finished in both oloroso and Ximinez sherry casks, but offers no age statement on how long it spends in those barrels. At 86 proof it’s a touch hotter than its little brothers, and more of a challenge than its little siblings, with a big slug of wood right up front. Huge caramel follows the wood, with an herbal, rosemary-like finish. There’s a bit, but less, sherry character here than I’d have thought, which is kind of unfortunate since sherry finishes always intrigue me. Still, an admirable whisky that most Scotch aficionados will enjoy. B+ / $60

auchentoshan.co.uk