Monthly Archives: September 2009

Review: Bache-Gabrielsen Hors d’Age Cognac

Posted on September 30, 2009 by Christopher Null| 8 Comments

The top shelf bottling of the Bache-Gabrielsen lineup, here’s a cognac that’s worth its fancy bottle, its wire-sealed lid, and its wooden box.

This pure Grande Champagne cognac includes spirits that date back to 1917 — the youngest was distilled in 1960. That’s 49 years old at least, and it’s obvious once you pour the first glass. The nose is delicate and rich, full of honey, berries, and light wood notes.

On the palate those flavors are amplified, with a light raspberry character atop silky vanilla, butterscotch, and very light chocolate notes. Some spices — cinnamon and nutmeg — come into play in the finish, as the fruit comes back strong for a long farewell. Lovely.

This cognac, 80 proof, is almost unbearably easy-drinking. Glass after glass goes down with such little fuss that a bottle quickly disappears. Visitors to Drinkhacker HQ regularly refer to it as “the $400 cognac” and tap a foot, waiting for a glass to be poured.

A / $400 / bache-gabrielsen.com

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Posted in Brandy, Cognac, Rated A, Reviews

Review: CurrantC Black Currant Nectar

Posted on September 29, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

I can’t speak to the claim that “black currants have twice the antioxidants of blueberries,” but as mixers go, CurrantC actually works well for those looking to up the health quotient of their intake, alcoholic or not.

CurrantC is, as the name suggests, nectar of black currants, 43% juice and the rest water and agave syrup. A 16 oz. bottle contains 300 calories and (yow) 68 grams of sugar, which might explain why it tastes so good. Sweet and surprisingly thick, it’s tart but not super-sour the way straight cranberry or blueberry juice can be.

Oddly, while CurrantC comes in six flavors, they all taste about the same. I couldn’t detect much influence of Passion Fruit or Blueberry in the various renditions, but regardless of their lack of individuality, they all come across as solid products.

B+ / $4.29 per 16-oz. bottle / currantc.com

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Posted in Mixers, Rated B+, Reviews

How It’s Made: Johnnie Walker Black Label

Posted on September 28, 2009 by Christopher Null| 9 Comments

Ever wonder how blended Scotch whisky is made? Well tomorrow I get the opportunity to find out firsthand by blending my own. Johnnie Walker sent this awesome kit (see right, click for large version) full of single malt and grain whiskeys, and during an hour-long session we’ll be blending our own Black Label under the tutelage of the company’s master distillers.

We’re blending this afternoon. Will report back when we’re finished and let you know how my whisky turned out!

UPDATE: Wow, that was fun and informative, and getting to taste six different malt whiskys from six different parts of Scotland (plus a grain whisky), side by side, was quite eye-opening. Real Black Label is blended from about 40 different whiskys, but even working with these seven to concoct my own spirit.

The blend I eventually used looks like this:

25% grain whisky
10% Lowland malt
10% Speyside malt
20% sherry cask malt
25% Highland malt
10% island malt

I skipped adding the heavily peaty Islay malt for my blend. Results? Perfectly palatable but surprisingly light considering how much Highland and sherry cask malt made up the blend. Typical blended whiskys have more than 50% grain whisky in the mix, but frankly I could have done with none at all.

Thanks to Johnnie Walker for an extremely informative, fun, and — as you can see from the photo below — involved experience.

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Posted in Scotch, Upcoming Events, Whiskey

Review: Buffalo Trace Antique Collection 2009 Edition

Posted on September 27, 2009 by Christopher Null| 4 Comments

Once again Buffalo Trace brings us five limited-edition whiskeys, and for 2009 they carry the same names as last year. However, the formulations and barrels from which these whiskeys have been drawn are different, making them unique expressions that you’ll only get in 2009… and while supplies last.

Sazerac Rye 18 Year Old – Notes are similar to last year. Good rye spice, with a nice sugar rush on the finish, followed by a slightly bittersweet finale. Feels hot despite again being a 90 proof whiskey, but water helps immeasurably. I like it just fine. B+

Eagle Rare 17 Year Old Bourbon – Eagle Rare’s new 17-year bourbon is another knockout, a perfectly sweetened and surprisingly woody whiskey compared to the prior year’s rendition. I prefer the 2008 to this 2009 version, where the wood gets in the way of the nutty characters of the whiskey, leaving it tasting a bit leathery. Still quite good, though. 90 proof. A-

George T. Stagg Bourbon – Now a cult favorite amont bourbon nuts, George T. Stagg’s 2009 bourbon, at 141.4 proof, is unadulterated firewater. Add some water… or a lot of water… and its charms are obvious. Caramel and thick wood sap blend together into a melange of old-school, frontier bourbon character. I like this year’s version a little better than last year. It is more in balance, dominated by rich molasses and a huge finish. A

William Larue Weller Bourbon – 134.8 proof, far more boozy than last year’s whiskey, with, again, 11 years of age on it. Strong fruit character, with apple the big component, plus a little cinnamon on the back of the palate. A little strange, to be honest, there’s so much fruit here that I wonder if the kids’ apple juice somehow got in the mix. B

Thomas H. Handy Sazerac – 129 proof straight rye, with 7 years of age. Intensely herbal, it almost tastes like this whiskey’s been studded with cloves somehow, with a flood of fruit on the palate. Out of balance, this one doesn’t do it for me. B-

about $65 each / greatbourbon.com

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Posted in Bourbon, Rated A, Rated A-, Rated B, Rated B+, Rated B-, Reviews, Rye, Whiskey

Review: Deanston 12 Year Old Scotch Whisky

Posted on September 26, 2009 by Christopher Null| 2 Comments

This Highland Scotch whisky is hardly a major name in the spirits world, and production has stopped and started several times in the last few decades. Now Deanston is back and going strong, and its 12-year expression is likely the most common one you’ll find.

Deanston 12 is a very light whisky, somewhat oily in texture and very pale gold in color. The nose is minimal, and the initial palate offers only a hint of things to come. Once you get into it, some solid, peaty smoke character finds its way into the body, undercut with honey and lightly floral notes. It’s a very interesting combination of experiences though it’s so slight it’s hard to get overly excited about it.

I’d recommend it for any Scotch novice, or anyone looking for something easy and unchallenging, perhaps as a first dram of the evening.

92.6 proof. Try a tiny splash of water to cut through some of the burn.

B+ / $38 / burnstewartdistillers.com

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Posted in Rated B+, Reviews, Scotch, Whiskey

Tasting Report: San Francisco International Wine Competition Double Gold Winners

Posted on September 26, 2009 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

This week Tasting Panel magazine threw a modest event with a few dozen wines and spirits showcased, all winners of double gold medals at the recent San Francisco International Wine Competition.

Winners were literally from all over the globe — I certainly experience the best Bulgarian wine I’ve ever had in my life at this event — and quality was, in this writer’s opinion, a bit variable.

Ratings on the 18 wines I tried follow.

Sadly I did not keep notes on the spirits I encountered (enjoyed Los Osuna’s reposado tequila quite a bit), and I think you would be hard-pressed to find anyone with a negative thing to say about Bols Genever.

SF International Wine Competition Double Gold Winners

NZ / 2008 Hunter’s Wine Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough / $14 / B

Cal / 2006 Kendall-Jackson Late Harvest Chardonnay, Monterey / $25 / A-

Wash / 2006 Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot Reserve, Ethos, Columbia Valley / $38 / A-

Arg / 2008 Alamos Malbec, Mendoza / $13 / B-

Arg / 2008 Finca Sophenia Reserve Malbec, Mendoza / $18 / C+

Bulg / 2007 Katarzyna Estate Syrah, Thracian Valley / NA / B

Cal / 2005 Clavo Cellars Syrah, Paso Robles / $25 / B+

Ausl / 2006 Schild Estate Shiraz, Ben Schild Reserve, Barossa / $35 / A-

Cal / 2007 Malibu Vineyards Cabernet Franc, California / $30 / A-

Cal / 2006 Joyce Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Russel Vineyard, Carmel Valley / $50 / B+

Cal / 2006 Halter Ranch Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles / $28 / B+

Cal / 2006 Redmon Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena / $65 / A-

Cal / 2006 Tudal Winery Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena / $45 / B+

Cal / 2005 Amizetta Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Vigneto de Tacchino, Napa Valley / $95 / B

Cal / 2005 Merriam Vineyards Bordeaux Blend, Miktos / $50 / A-

Cal / 2005 Clavo Cellars Proprietary Red, Paso Robles / $28 / A-

Cal / 2007 Summers Estate Wines Zinfandel, Four-Acre Estate, Villa Andiana, Napa Valley / $34 / B+

Cal / 2007 Harney Lane Winery Old Vine Zinfandel, Lizzy James Vineyard, Lodi / $33 / B+

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Posted in Reviews, Wine

Review: Conjure Cognac

Posted on September 26, 2009 by Christopher Null| 37 Comments

If nothing else, I recommend you get your hands on the press book for Conjure Cognac, a new spirit brought to you by rapper/actor Chris “Ludacris” Bridges. Filled with pictures of Bridges sniffing samples at France’s Birkedal Hartmann while surrounded by dapper Frenchmen, it’s as bizarre a promo for a spirit as I’ve encountered.

As for Conjure Cognac itself (tagline: “Imagine the possibilities.”), it’s exceedingly fruity, with a big apple character, and a hefty, sugary and spicy finish. The initial rush is quite tasty, but that finish is tricky, almost like that of a cheap rye whiskey. There’s wood in there but it’s too smoky, and it doesn’t fit will with the hefty fruitiness in the body. The end result can only be described as out of balance.

As a mixing brandy, which is how I figure most people will consume it, Conjure works. On its own, though, Conjure isn’t half as smooth as it wants to be. Sorry, Ludacris.

And by the way, pay special attention to the white, lacy etching on the bottle for an, er, intriguing surprise.

80 proof.

C+ / $30 / conjurecognac.com

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Posted in Brandy, Cognac, Rated C+, Reviews

Whisky Live Discount Codes

Posted on September 25, 2009 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

I can’t make it to any Whisky Live events this year, but my loss is your gain. Here are some discount codes for three of the upcoming sessions. Use them in good health!

Los Angeles, Oct. 20th, Discount code for 20% is la09web219

Toronto, Oct. 23rd, Discount code for 10% is to09web119

Ft. Lauderdale, Oct. 28th, Discount code for 20% is ft09web219

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Posted in Upcoming Events, Whiskey

Online Tasting With Laphroaig on Friday

Posted on September 24, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Break out your bottle of Laphroaig and sit down with distillery manager John Campbell tomorrow at 5PM Pacific time. Campbell will be sitting down with Maker’s Mark distiller Kevin Smith for this live broadcast, which “will celebrate the relationship between Laphroaig and Maker’s Mark (specifically the maturation process of Laphroaig in former Maker’s Mark barrels), while educating consumers on traditional Laphroaig expressions.”

Watch it here tomorrow and feel free to chime in with questions during the live chat!

OK… embedded version doesn’t work well. Try this link instead.

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Posted in Scotch, Whiskey

Review: Hibiki 12 Year Old Whiskey

Posted on September 23, 2009 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

Yamazaki isn’t the only whiskey Japanese distillery Suntory makes, but for ages it’s been the only one it has sold overseas. Now Suntory is expanding the distribution of another of its products: Hibiki 12 Year Old Whiskey.

This is a very easygoing, blended whiskey, pale gold in color and with a light, blonde-wood character that comes through strongly. Freshly brewed tea, a common characteristic in Japanese whiskeys, is huge on the palate, and the spirit eventually fades out with waves of grain, a light astringency, and some flowery notes. Very nice — though to be honest it reminds me a lot of 12-year Yamazaki, maybe with a touch more wood to it.

86 proof.

B+ / $45 / suntory.com