Monthly Archives: August 2009

Review: He’Brew Rejewvenator Harvest to Harvest Ale

Posted on August 30, 2009 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

The good folks at Shmaltz Brewing Company have no shortage of good humor. Brewing under the “He’Brew” label, the company’s kosher beers play up Jewish stereotypes to a hilt, and they never apologize for it along the way.

The company’s latest experiment is Rejewvenator, a “half doppelbock, half Belgian style dubbel” which is brewed with dates, a sacred fruit in Jewish history and tradition. (He”Brew makes a version of this annually; last year it was made with figs.)

The good news is that you won’t taste a lot of date flavor in this brew, but it’s monstrously full of flavor. Coffee, rich cocoa, caramel, and intense bitterness are all hefty in this beer, which clocks in at 7.8 percent alcohol. It’s quite sweet for a beer of this depth, but there’s an aftertaste that’s a little bit off-putting. I am guessing that’s the dates talking.

Curious, to say the least.

B / $6 per 22-oz. bottle / shmaltz.com

rejewvenator beer Review: HeBrew Rejewvenator Harvest to Harvest Ale

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Posted in Beer, Rated B, Reviews

Review: Bowmore 12 Year Old Scotch Whisky

Posted on August 28, 2009 by Christopher Null| 5 Comments

One of the big names of Islay, Bowmore is a staple of bars around the world.

Bowmore’s 12 year old bottling is its youngest single malt with an age statement, and it’s a solid entry point to Bowmore’s typical structure. Moderately gold/amber in color, Bowmore 12 offers a mild nose with a somewhat hot character. The peaty smokiness doesn’t come into play until you take a sip, and then a lush smoke rolls over you, almost characteristic of a grass fire. There’s also honey and a little lemon in the body, both of which come into play after the smoke starts to fade.

The finish is short and mild, and a little watery, but warming. Altogether a solid whisky, though a bit on the simple side. 80 proof.

The only other Bowmore I have on hand for comparison is Bowmore 17 Year Old (B-), which is only sold at duty free (and similar) outlets. This 86-proof whisky is bolder and more aggressive, but it shares much of the 12′s DNA. The 17 has tougher smoke, which gives it a lightly harsh and bitter finish, but it is tempered by a good bit of water. I rather prefer the 12.

B / $40 / bowmore.co.uk

bowmore 12 year old Review: Bowmore 12 Year Old Scotch Whisky

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Posted in Rated B, Reviews, Scotch, Whiskey

Review: Four Roses Mariage Collection 2009 Edition

Posted on August 27, 2009 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

Has it really been a year since Four Roses put out its first Mariage Collection bourbon? I was a huge fan of the 2008 edition, Four Roses again blends two batches of whiskey together to create a sophisticated blended bourbon.

The two whiskeys this time out are a rye-heavy 10-year-old bourbon and an ancient 19-year-old barrel.

With such an old whiskey in the mix, you’d think this would be covered in oak, but that’s not the case. Up front the 2009 Mariage offers strong caramel and butterscotch notes, almost dessert-like. There’s smoke in the mid-palate, and a somewhat tight finish where the wood starts to show through a bit more. Some sherry-like notes in the end, almost with hints of brown sugar.

It’s a very different whiskey vs. the prior edition, more classical in its bourbon structure than the Irish-inspired 2008. Both are good, and I suppose the one you choose to drink depends on the kind of night you’re looking to have.

Final proof not yet determined. Sample bottle indicates a range of 114 to 118 proof, a bit hotter than last year’s version.

A- / $80 / fourroses.us

four roses mariage 2009 Review: Four Roses Mariage Collection 2009 Edition

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Posted in Bourbon, Rated A-, Reviews, Whiskey

Review: Lhasa Beer

Posted on August 27, 2009 by Christopher Null| 4 Comments

Drink your way to Tibetan freedom? Now that is philanthropy that’s hard to pass up, and Lhasa, the first beer ever to be exported from Tibet, donates 10 percent of profits to doing good deeds in its homeland. So you can drink up and feel good about it.

Lhasa is a lighter style pilsner, just 4.6% alcohol, and it’s extremely easy drinking. A good amount of malt gives it some immediate richness, but that soon fades into a semi-sweet, lightly bitter finish. The finale is a bit on the watery side — but, hey, it’s water from the Himalayan Mountains, so it’s hard to complain too loudly about it.

I’d have no trouble drinking Lhasa as a refreshing, it’s-hot-outside kind of picnic beer, but its flavor profile is in no way a match for the story the bottle has to tell. Worth a try, just don’t get too excitable.

B / $9 per six-pack / lhasabeerusa.com

lhasa beer Review: Lhasa Beer

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Posted in Beer, Rated B, Reviews

Boston Gets Its Own Absolut

Posted on August 26, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Following New Orleans and Los Angeles, Boston now gets its own signature flavored version of Absolut vodka. Frankly this one sounds like the best version yet. (What, you were expecting chowder flavor?)

This month, the world’s most iconic vodka celebrates the pride and spirit of Boston with the debut of its newest city-inspired flavor – ABSOLUT BOSTON. Made with black tea and elderflower, the limited-edition vodka offers bartenders and bar patrons a distinct blend of on-trend flavors that will shake up the cocktail scene from coast-to-coast. With a unique bottle design that serves as an homage to one of the city’s most iconic monuments and local sports fanaticism, ABSOLUT BOSTON is now available at bars, restaurants, nightclubs and retailers nationwide.

More here.

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Posted in Flavored Vodka, Vodka

Tasting Report: Family Winemakers of California, August 2009

Posted on August 25, 2009 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

Hey Drinkhacker fans! Sorry for the long absence, but rest assured we’ve not been sleeping on the job. We’ve been drinking — wine, and plenty of it.

This week saw 2009′s Family Winemakers of California event, billed as the biggest wine event in the world and, as I noted last year, that’s not a boast. Fortunately the crowds were sparser this year, but there was just as much wine being poured. I tried 38 bottles — mostly pinot noir, just because I was in that kind of a mood — out of what was likely more than 1000 different wines being poured.

My favorite? Arguably newcomer Wedell Cellars, which had two outstanding pinots and which I’d never heard of before. (I also got a dirty look for going “out of order” on the wines… but in a madhouse like this, what can you do?)

Also greatly enjoyed just about everything Calera was pouring, and was thrilled to try four of Merry Edwards’ single-vineyard Russian River pinots after years of drinking the always-on-the-wine-list Sonoma Coast version.

Full ratings follow. Apologies as always for lack of notes and spelling errors.

Family Winemakers of California 2009 Complete Report

2006 Audelssa Tephra / B
2007 Benovia Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast / A-
2007 Benovia Pinot Noir Anderson Valley / B+
2007 Benovia Pinot Noir Russian River Valley / A-
2006 Calera Pinot Noir Mt. Harlan Cuvee / A
2006 Calera Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard / A-
2002 Calera Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard / A-
1997 Calera Pinot Noir Reed Vineyard / A
2006 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir / A
2007 Cru Winery Montage Central Coast / B
2006 Demetria Cuvee Sandra / A-
2007 Flowers Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir / A-
2007 Fog Crest Pinot Noir / A-
2006 Hendry Pinot Noir / A-
2005 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon / A
2005 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon / B
1994 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon / B
2005 Laurel Glen Counterpoint / A-
2007 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Meredith Estate / A
2007 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Tobias Glen / A
2007 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Olivet Lane / B
2007 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Klopp Ranch / A-
2006 O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain / A
2005 Orentano Pinot Noir / B+
2004 Orentano Pinot Noir / B+
2007 Saxon Brown Pinot Noir. Sonoma Coast Parallee-Hill / A
2007 Saxon Brown Pinot Noir. Sonoma Coast Durell Vineyard / B+
2006 Tandem Pinot Noir Van Der Kamp / B+
2007 Tandem Pinot Noir Silver Pines / B+
2006 Tandem Peloton / A-
2006 Tantara Winery Pinot Noir Lindsey’s Vineyard / B+
2007 Tantara Winery Pinot Noir Rio Vista Vineyard / B+
2007 Tantara Winery Pinot Noir Dierberg Vineyard / A-
2007 Trione Vineyards Pinot Noir / B+
2006 Truchard Merlot / B
2006 Truchard Pinot Noir / B+
2005 Wedell Cellars Pinot Noir Edna Valley / A
2006 Wedell Cellars Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills / A

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Posted in Reviews, Wine

Review: 2007 Van Duzer Estate Pinot Noir

Posted on August 20, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

This Willamette Valley pinot noir offers classic Burgundy character: Big black cherry core, earthy underscoring, and hints of herbs like lavender and violet. The body is moderate, with a bracing tartness that pairs well with food. Though very young, Van Duzer’s Estate Pinot makes for reasonably easy drinking today, though I suspect a couple of years in the bottle will help mellow out some of its mild tannin and allow some of the flavor characters — which are right now a touch out of balance — to harmonize. Excellent wine for the price.

A- / $30 / vanduzer.com

van duzer pinot noir Review: 2007 Van Duzer Estate Pinot Noir

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Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Wine

Review: Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur

Posted on August 19, 2009 by Christopher Null| 4 Comments

The interest in American Honey liqueur on this site has been a bit shocking to me, but it’s hardly the first honey-flavored liqueur to hit the market. One of the oldest, Bärenjäger, is experiencing a bit of a renaissance now — so what better time than now to explore the charms of this liqueur?

You know how Winnie the Pooh likes honey? Well that’s no joke. Hunters used to use an aromatic honey beverage to attract bears, and that’s the idea from which Bärenjäger (“bear hunter”) draws its name. Bärenjäger is made in Germany; the honey it uses comes from Mexico.

Bärenjäger, which dates back to the 1400s, has an intense, serious honey aroma. Orange blossom-like in character, and just like something you’d put on your toast in the morning. The flavor is even more intense. It starts off soft and simple, but very rapidly generates a powerful sweetness, again with that light orange kick.

There are certainly other ingredients here, but they pale in the face of that sweet honey character. There’s a hint of woodsiness, and vague herbal aromatics, but none of them resonate. This is a pure, unabashed honey liqueur. Of course the beehive that serves as the lid probably tipped you off.

70 proof.

A- / $23 / barenjagerhoney.com

barenjager Review: Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur

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Posted in Liqueurs, Rated A-, Reviews

Review: Macallan 1824 Collection Scotch Whisky

Posted on August 18, 2009 by Christopher Null| 3 Comments

Macallan is now releasing a new line of four single malt whiskys with the 1824 Collection label, an homage to the year in which Macallan began operation. None of these malts date back to 180-some years ago, mind you, but they do pay respects to that era. I tried the three bottlings which will be commonly available — the 1824 Limited Release will run more than $2,000 a bottle, and I sadly didn’t get to sample it — and they all share a common DNA. Comments on each of the other three members of the quartet follow.

Macallan 1824 Select Oak – Intense honey on the front of this whisky, with a brewed tea finish. Light in style with a moderate amount of wood from both American and European oak barrels finished with bourbon and sherry. An interesting fig character comes through along with some vanilla and butterscotch on the finish. Lots of fun, easy to drink. 80 proof. A- / $53

Macallan 1824 Whisky Maker’s Edition – Bigger and bolder than the Select Oak, with a spicier character — like allspice or cloves — coming through prominently. A bigger dried fruit flavor hits with the Whisky Maker’s Edition, with a finish that harkens back to that brewed tea again. A touch of smoke also plays at the conclusion. Also a winner. 85.6 proof. A- / $99

Macallan 1824 Estate Reserve – Even bigger than the Whisky Maker’s Edition, a classic Scotch with burnt sugar, honey, old wood, and leather notes. A real powerhouse, this is an Everyman’s whisky with pleasant yet rugged character. Intriguing orange and chocolate notes play with the wood here, ultimately a spicy but more earthy version of the Whisky Maker’s Edition. 91.4 proof. A- / $165

themacallan.com

macallan 1824 4 bottle lineup Review: Macallan 1824 Collection Scotch Whisky

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Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Scotch, Whiskey

Review: Buen Amigo Tequila Blanco

Posted on August 16, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

buen amigo blanco tequila Review: Buen Amigo Tequila BlancoIs Buen Amigo a good friend, as its name would imply? Let’s find out, shall we?

An unusual citrus nose is immediately evident on this blanco tequila, which is apparently a mixto tequila despite one of its reposado big brother versions being a 100% agave version.

Pungent and charcoal-like, Buen Amigo’s hard-edged nose gives way to a bit smoother body than you might expect, with a clean, lime-finished palate and a bit of a boozy, alcoholic finish (though at 80 proof, it’s no different than other tequilas in the alcohol content department).

Ultimately rather plain, this is a fair choice for a tequila if you’re buying in bulk and don’t need a 100% agave spirit. Connoisseurs will want to look elsewhere.

B- / $25 (1.75-liter bottle) / buenamigo.com

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Posted in Rated B-, Reviews, Tequila