Monthly Archives: July 2009

Who Wants Cheap (Yet Fancy) Wine?

The bottom is falling out of the top of the wine market, and it’s probably about time.

Per the Wall Street Journal:

Total U.S. wine sales rose about 5% in terms of volume in the first quarter from a year earlier, but wines priced at $25 a bottle and up fell about 12%, estimates Jon Fredrikson, an industry consultant with Gomberg, Frederikson & Associates in Woodside, Calif.

One sign of the times: Auction Napa Valley — the premier charity and social event of the year — raised just $5.7 million last month, down sharply from the $10.4 million raised last year.

The upshot: Bargains a-plenty, especially if you’re willing to comparison shop. Markdowns of 30% on premium-priced wines are becoming common.

Clue us in on any big deals you find!

Review: Fruit Lab Organic Liqueurs

The folks behind Tru Organic Vodka have set their sights on, well, a smaller, less lucrative market: Fruit- and flower-flavored liqueurs. Up first, a line of three curious concoctions, with even more curious names.

All are certified 100% organic, sweetened with cane sugar, and weigh in at 40 proof, which puts them on the (very) light side of the alcohol scale.

Citry is an organic orange liqueur, the most straightforward of the lineup. It uses Valencia and navel oranges as a base flavor, then adds “Bergamot sour orange,” and I’m not quite sure what that means. The result is a little odd — a bit too sweet, but more “pure” in its tone than the aged liqueurs like Grand Marnier, which look a lot like Citry in color. There’s solid orange in the attack, but the finish winds up on a funky, almost saccharine note. Perhaps a bit too much Bergamot sour orange? B-

Crism is a name which won’t get a lot of play out loud. It’s flavored with hibiscus and is colored a garnet red. Looks like sangria, and kind of tastes like it too. There’s a real initial cough syrup character here, but then the hibiscus kicks in soon after. The finish is light and refreshing. Not something I’d drink on its own, but definitely worth experimenting with as a cocktail ingredient. B

Theia — I don’t even know how that’s pronounced — is a jasmine liqueur, and offers exotic incense aromas, unlike any other spirit I can recall. As a pure attempt at distilling the essence of a single ingredient into a liqueur, this is Fruit Lab’s biggest success. As with Crism, it’s a tough nut to crack on its own, as the jasmine is overpowering in the absence of a mixer. But this is one I’d definitely see making for some interesting drinks — most likely of the beach variety. A-

$33 each / fruitlabliqueurs.com

fruit lab liqueurs 643x1024 Review: Fruit Lab Organic Liqueurs

Review: 2007 Grey Stack Pinot Noir “The Fisherman” Connell Family Vineyard Bennett Valley

grey stack pinot noir 2007 Review: 2007 Grey Stack Pinot Noir The Fisherman Connell Family Vineyard Bennett ValleyFormerly known as Dry Stack, Grey Stack Cellars took on a new name after the folks at Dry Sack Sherry felt there was a little too much similarity between the two company names.

Fair enough, the wine inside is the same no matter what you call it.

In any case, this pinot noir from Sonoma’s Bennett Valley is a tricky wine. The nose is heavy with Burgundy character, and has a bit of green pepper and menthol in it. The nose does have a certain ethanol heat to it that’s hard to ignore.

The body is a classic pinot, a little on the hot side, but lush with fruit — black cherry and some lighter strawberry notes, laced with a touch of wood and gravel. Not bad, but the finish is on the watery side, a weird contrast to the wine’s hot attack.

Only 50 cases made. It likely will be hard to find.

B+ / $32 / drystackcellars.com

Review: 2008 Lander-Jenkins Chardonnay “Spirit Hawk”

At 14 bucks a bottle, Lander-Jenkins’ “Spirit Hawk” Chardonnay (sourced from unspecified California vineyards) doesn’t exactly aim for the stars. Lightly oaked, it’s a simple wine, with fair apple character, some grapefruit, and a good slug of hammy meat in the body.

The mouthfeel is fairly rich and creamy, and a touch of pineapple on the finish makes it more interesting than you might otherwise expect at first blush.

Solid value, but nothing off the charts.

B / $14 / rutherfordwines.com

lander jenkins chardonnay Review: 2008 Lander Jenkins Chardonnay Spirit Hawk

Review: Deschutes Brewery Black Butte XXI Aged Porter

Recipe for awesomeness: Take a thick, brown porter, add (Bellatazza’s) coffee and (Theo’s) chocolate beans during the brewing process, age 20 percent of the finished product in (Stranahan’s) whiskey barrels, and bottle at 11 percent alcohol.

Hefty beers like this are normally not my thing, but Deschutes’ Black Butte XXI (celebrating 21 years of the brewery), 2009 edition, is something special.

As you’d expect, coffee and chocolate are the predominant flavors and aromas here — chocolate more on the nose, sweetened coffee in the body — but it’s more complex than that. The cocoa and coffee really meld together well in the finish, with a little cinnamon kick and a very light bitterness to remind you that, hey, you’re really drinking beer. (With virtually no head, you’d never know from its looks in the glass.)

There’s a touch of alcohol here (11% gets you places, after all), but it’s all extremely well thought-out and comes together perfectly. I opened a bottle for a few friends. It was gone, fast, beloved by all. Deschutes may call it experimental, but it’s a reminder that some experiments lead to resounding successes.

Serve slightly chilled but not too cold.

A / $13 per 22-oz. bottle / deschutesbrewery.com

black butte xxi Review: Deschutes Brewery Black Butte XXI Aged Porter

2008 Wine May Offer a Bit More Smoke Than Usual…

Remember all those California forest fires in 2008? Well guess what, you might be drinking them with your next bottle of pinot:

And then, biblically, came the blazes throughout the Northern California hills but notably in Mendocino, where the 129 fires of the Lightning Complex blaze would ultimately burn more than 54,000 acres. It was, in the words of one Mendocino County vineyard owner, like “nuclear winter for several weeks.”

It also was the first time in recent memory that California vines were subjected to such smoke. How would the wines fare?

Bottom line: We’ll see, pretty soon, as 2008 reds come to market. (2008 whites are not terribly effected.) But in many cases, expect at least a hint of that smoke character in your vino…

Review: Charbay Tequila Blanco

The booze masters at Charbay never seem to know when to quit. Already the home of numerous types of vodka, rum, wine, grappa, whiskey, and more, their attention has now been turned to tequila, just one more world to conquer.

We got a taste of the not-yet-released blanco tequila, 100 percent agave of course and grown and distilled in Mexico (not the company’s California home), to which we now turn our full attention.

Charbay is an extremely spicy, peppery expression of this classic spirit. That pepper — both of the black and jalapeno chile variety — is immediately obvious on the nose, and it only expands as you sip the spirit. Short of pepper-infused versions, this is the raciest tequila I think I’ve ever experienced. If you like your tequila with a good bit of bite to it, you’ll absolutely love Charbay’s work here.

The theory with Charbay’s version is to let the tequila speak for itself (hence no aging in oak), and that’s refreshing in an age of tequilas that spend so long in the barrel that they start showing more like whiskey or cognac than their true base spirit. But Charbay’s blanco is so heavy on the spice that it doesn’t leave much room for a lot of nuance. If you’re a fan of classical, in-your-face styling, you’ll really enjoy this. Those looking for tertiary floral or fruit notes may not be as appreciative.

A- / $49 / charbay.com

charbay tequila Review: Charbay Tequila Blanco

Cool Down Your Drink With Rocks (Real Rocks)

whisky stones Cool Down Your Drink With Rocks (Real Rocks)It’s a dilemma for some, I suppose: You want to cool your drink down, but you don’t want it to get watery, a big problem with melting ice. Short of chilled-glass contraptions, how do you get the job done?

Answer: Whisky stones.

Whisky stones are real rocks, soapstone cut into cubes to be exact, which you store in your freezer and drop straight into your drink when you want coldness without meltwater. If you’re starting with a warm/room-temperature beverage, they are slow to work and never get things anywhere close to the coolness that real ice does, but they mostly get the job done eventually. If your drink’s already cold and you just want to keep it that way, they work better, but I doubt that’s a huge application here.

The effect is a little disconcerting, I have to say. You are, after all, drinking from a glass full of gray rocks, which is not the most aesthetic way to imbibe. Despite promises to the contrary, the rocks do impart some flavor to the drink. In plain water, you definitely get a chalky flavor and texture in your mouth. It’s not hard to see why — there are little fragments of dust floating in the glass (and yes, I washed them first). In strong drinks these effects may be less noticeable.

Interesting stuff, and since I usually use ice not just for the cooling but for the water inherent to it, too, I probably won’t use these very often. That said, they don’t take up much room in the freezer, they clean up easily, and they’re quite a conversation starter.

Rock on.

$20 for set of 9 / teroforma.com

Tasting Report: Pinot Days 2009

Hot weather and worse traffic conspired to make my trip to this year’s Pinot Days a relatively abbreviated one, but I still had the chance to try nearly three dozen pinots from California and Oregon.

Favorite: Eric Kent’s entire line (though one 2008 barrel sample wasn’t nearly ready), a perennial Drinkhacker favorite, plus the wines of Oregon’s Le Cadeau, which I’d never had before but found remarkably lively, fruit-forward, and wonderful to drink.

Lots of good wines to be had, and not a bad bottle all around. Complete ratings (apologies for any typos) follow.

Complete Tasting Report – Pinot Days 2009

Cal 2007 Black Kite Cellars Pinot Noir Redwoods Terrace / B
Cal 2007 Black Kite Cellars Pinot Noir Stony Terrace / B+
Ore 2005 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Winery Hill / B+
Ore 2006 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve / B+
Cal 2006 Donum Estate Pinot Noir Carneros / A-
Cal 2007 Donum Estate Pinot Noir Russian River Valley / B
Cal 2007 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Stiling / A-
Cal 2007 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Windsor Oaks / A
Cal 2007 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Small Town / A-
Cal 2008 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Stiling / B
Cal 2008 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Small Town / A-
Cal 2006 Hitching Post Wines Pinot Noir Highliner / B+
Cal 2006 Hitching Post Wines Pinot Noir Perfect Set / B+
Cal 2007 Hitching Post Wines Pinot Noir Cork Dancer / A-
Cal 2006 Hitching Post Wines Pinot Noir Sta. Rita’s Earth / B+
Cal 2007 Jim Ball Vineyards Pinot Noir / A-
Ore 2007 Le Cadeau Vineyard Pinot Noir Cote Est / A-
Ore 2007 Le Cadeau Vineyard Pinot Noir Equinoxe / A
Ore 2007 Le Cadeau Vineyard Pinot Noir Rocheux / A-
Cal 2007 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir Central Coast / A-
Cal 2007 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast / A-
Cal 2003 Michaud Vineyard Pinot Noir / B
Cal 2004 Michaud Vineyard Pinot Noir / B+
Cal 2006 Olson Ogden Wines Pinot Noir Russian River Valley / B
Cal 2007 Olson Ogden Wines Pinot Noir Russian River Valley / B+
Cal 2007 Roessler Cellars Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict / B
Cal 2007 Rusack Vineyards Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills / B+
Cal 2007 Rusack Vineyards Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley / B+
Cal 2007 Sanford Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills / A-
Cal 2007 Sanford Pinot Noir La Rinconada Vineyard / B+
Cal 2007 Sanford Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict / B+
Cal 2006 Skewis Wines Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast / A
Cal 2006 Skewis Wines Pinot Noir Russian River Valley / A-