Monthly Archives: June 2009

On Decanting Whiskey

Reader Paul Moody writes: Is there any real reason to decant a bourbon? There seems to be a good selection of crystal decanters to be found on the market these days, but are they primarily for style and looks?

They are strictly for looks.

Decanting wine is done to aerate the wine and minimize the amount of sediment you get in your glass, but these aren’t real concerns with spirits, which don’t change after they reach the bottle. Yes, a spirit will often “open up” after it’s sat in a glass for a few minutes, but that’s due to  alcohol evaporating. That doesn’t happen in a sealed decanter.

There’s actually a reason to avoid decanters, too: With leaded crystal (which comprises the majority of crystal glassware), there’s serious concern that lead can leach out of the glass and into your spirit. If you’re drinking wine from a leaded crystal decanter over the course of a few hours, that contact’s not likely to be a problem. Leave that whiskey in the decanter for a few years and it may very well become one. The FDA has even said that alcoholic beverages are even more at risk of this happening, with substantial effects seen after just a few days of exposure to the leaded crystal.

Review: Maria Mezcal Anejo

Mezcalapalooza continues with this mezcal, a 100% agave anejo, aged one year in oak, and bottled at 80 proof, sans worm or other insect.

Maria’s “Mezcal de Oaxaca” is quite unique. Though it offers traditional aromas of smoke laced with agave, the body is something else. Tart like a cherry, it is both sweet and sour and extremely fruity — more than any mezcal or tequila I’ve ever tried. Not sure where all that fruitiness comes from, though, as there’s nothing outrageously different about the way Maria is made. Smoke raises its head again on the finish, but that cherry taste lingers for quite some time.

Is it good? That’s a matter of personal taste, but I find Maria a little too far “out there” for easy enjoyment. Conceivably better in some cocktails, perhaps?

C+ / price N/A / no website

maria anejo mezcal Review: Maria Mezcal Anejo

Review: 2009 Deschutes Brewery Mirror Mirror Beer

Take Deschutes’ Mirror Pond Pale Ale, double the strength to 11% alcohol and age 35 percent of it in oak barrels, and you get the cleverly named Mirror Mirror.

The moniker is a bit misleading. “Mirror” would seem to imply clarity and smoothness, but Mirror Mirror is a deep bronze color with a lot of complex, sometimes rustic, flavor. This limited-release beer isn’t as enchanting as the company’s The Abyss, though it’s vaguely in the same ballpark, flavor-wise.

At its core, this is a boozy pale ale, and that intense hoppiness is readily evident on the nose. The body, though, is more bluntly alcoholic than I’d like, and the effect when combined with wood is to make the beer (er, barleywine) overly sweet and a little oily. Has a tart, raisin-and-cherry-like finish that’s almost on the sour side.

I didn’t realize until after I’d opened it that Deschutes advises cellaring this beer until April 2010. I jumped the gun by 10 months; I can only wonder what that extra time might have done to help the somewhat at-odds flavors here coalesce. Certainly intriguing, to say the least.

B+ / $12 per 22-oz. bottle / deschutesbrewery.com

mirror mirror beer Review: 2009 Deschutes Brewery Mirror Mirror Beer

Review: Tequila Ocho Single Estate Reposado 2009

When last we visited Tequila Ocho we sampled the bottler’s 2008 and 2009 “single estate” tequilas, comparing two silver tequilas side by side. Today we turn to the 2009 reposado expression.

Also from the Rancho Las Pomez Estate, this reposado is aged for 8 weeks and 8 days (which, I guess, is the same as 9 weeks and 1 day, but wouldn’t match up with the “Ocho” motif). That’s the minimum amount of time allowed by Mexican law, and frankly I think this reposado would benefit from a little more time in oak.

Lighter in color and flavor, this reposado has picked up only hints of oak from its barrel time, leaving the agave character the strongest portion of the spirit. This, according to the company, is intentional, as it strives to retain that agave flavor as much as possible. Here the oak doesn’t come across so much as vanilla-like (as it typical in aged tequila) but more buttery, with a very creamy mouthfeel and a good slug of vegetal agave character on the finish.

This reposado benefits from some aeration and loses some of its heat after a few minutes opening up in the glass, at which point some light honey and lemon notes develop. Some cinnamon in there too. Lots of fun if you have patience with it; definitely a worthwhile tequila!

A- / $71 / tequilaocho.com

tequila ocho reposado 2008 Review: Tequila Ocho Single Estate Reposado 2009

(2008 vintage shown)