Monthly Archives: June 2009

Review: Casa Noble Tequila

If nothing else, Casa Noble wins a prize for its gorgeous bottle design. Good thing for us: The company’s tequila — 100% blue agave, triple distilled to 80 proof, and (save the blanco) aged in French oak barrels. All are worth your consideration — all equally good in their own ways.

Casa Noble Crystal (Blanco) – Really smooth tequila, immediately impressive. Agave is muted, with a playful sweetness, honey-like, with fresh bread characteristics. Hard to put down, actually, and not a hint of heat to it. Although it isn’t entirely nuanced with secondary character, it’s one of the easiest-drinking blancos I’ve ever had. A / $40

Casa Noble Reposado – Rested in oak for 364 days — making it almost as old as most anejo tequilas on the market (that category kicks in at the one-year marker). Unlike most reposados, which usually get the minimum two months of age and just hint at wood, this is serious stuff: Deep, dark cocoa and vanilla character, leather; feels like walking through an antique shop. Would never have guessed, blind, that this was reposado — and in fact it may be too aged for that moniker. There’s some agave and heat in the finish, surprisingly — more so than the blanco. Still, an excellent tequila and definitely worth a try if you’re an anejo lover. You’ll be shocked. A / $50

Casa Noble Anejo – Two years in wood. Jesus. This is like the reposado, extreme edition. Rich and cognac-like, with spicy leather, tobacco, dark chocolate, Mexican vanilla, the works. Dessert in a glass, and the least tequila-like of the trio. Not a bad thing, mind you, but something that’s obviously the result of serious craftsmanship. The purple bottle is distinctive. A / $60

casanoble.com

casa noble tequila three expressions Review: Casa Noble Tequila

Review: 2006 Bonny Doon Cardinal Zin

Straight outta Livermore, the quirky wine nuts at Bonny Doon have turned their eyes to zinfandel, with this “Cardinal Zin” (get it? GET IT!?) now hitting the market.

Grapes are sourced from “Beastly Old Vines” in the Oakley area (the far outer suburbs of the San Francisco Bay Area; the wine bears only a “California” appellation) and the wine is aged just eight months.

Actually a blend — 95% zinfandel, 5% mourvedre — this is a very light, pleasant wine. Unchallenging in any way, it’s full of jammy fruit, raspberry and blueberry, and opens on a peppery vibe. I don’t want to say watery, but it’s on the thin side. Goes down pretty smoothly, without a lot of fuss.

Love the Ralph Steadman label, by the way. (2005 label shown below; 2006 is virtually identical.)

B+ / $20 / cardinalzin.com

2006 cardinal zin wine Review: 2006 Bonny Doon Cardinal Zin

Review: Señor Sangria

Pre-mixed, bottled sangria can be a dicey proposition. I mean, is it that hard to make good sangria yourself?

Well, yes, yes it is. That’s why you never make it at home, lardo — you’re too lazy. And you’ve got to have lots of fresh fruit handy. And a knife.

Screw that and pop open a bottle of Señor Sangria, a brand new sangria from a brand new company that tastes as good as the home-made hooch. You’ll taste the difference immediately: Señor Sangria may not be made out of Chateau Petrus, but the generally good quality of the starter wine is apparent. That’s good because Señor Sangria isn’t as sweet or as fruit-bombed as many sangrias tend to be. Here the wine — hearty and rich, not overly fruity — is the main player. Sugar has been added with an even hand, and the additional citrus flavors aren’t overpowering, light citrus, apple, maybe some cherry — though of course it’s hard to tell what characteristics are coming from the wine itself instead of added fruit.

Uncomplicated to be sure, this is nonetheless good, easygoing stuff, perfect for sipping by the pool barefoot — which is exactly how I’m enjoying it, suckers! Ridiculously inexpensive, too.

8% alcohol by volume.

A- / $9 (750ml bottle) / senorsangria.com

senor sangria Review: Señor Sangria

Review: Thatcher’s Blueberry and Dark Chocolate Organic Liqueurs

Previously we’ve raved about three of Thatcher’s Organic Liqueurs, and now we’re about to rave about two more, so put on your happy hats.

Thatcher’s Organic Blueberry is as simple as they come: Organic blueberry smashed into 30-proof oblivion. The flavor is clean and authentic, a berry bomb that is clearly sweet, unadulterated blueberry. It’s a bit tart; I recommend lots of ice and a little cold water if you want to drink it alone. For the same reason few people drink plain blueberry juice, it can be a little too much without something else. It’s also not the manliest drink on earth. The color is more lavender than blue. But hey, I’m secure enough to knock a few back without shame. B+

Thatcher’s Organic Dark Chocolate is whoaaaaaa full of deep, dark chocolate flavor. It’s almost whiskey-like in color, which is disarming considering most chocolate liqueurs are as opaque and thick as chocolate syrup, but the body is stuffed full of chocolate notes. The initial rush is sugary, candy-like, and then a big, cocoa-powder finish rolls in. It is indeed dark chocolate, lightly bittersweet and amazingly rich. Love this one. Also 30 proof. A+

$25 / thatchersorganic.com


Review: Brugal Extra Viejo Rum

The Dominican Republic’s biggest-selling rum arrives in a new incarnation (well, new to the U.S. anyway): “Extra Viejo,” or “Extra Old.”

This bottling is a blend of older rums — no age statement is given — but age is certainly in mind when one sips this spirit.

Deep brown in color, the nose is immediately redolent of coffee and tobacco, but as it aerates that intensity tends to dissipate. The body offers notes much in line with the aroma — light coffee, vanilla, and a touch of smoke. The finish is clean and not at all boozy or bitter, as many rums can be. It is one of few rums I have no problems drinking at room temperature, but it works on the rocks and as a stellar cocktail ingredient, too.

Best of all: Since Brugal Extra Viejo is so inexpensive, it’s one that I wouldn’t mind using freely as a mixer. Want a top shelf rum and Coke? Go ahead, knock yourself out.

A / $25 / brugal.com.do

brugal extra viejo rum Review: Brugal Extra Viejo Rum

Review: The Diamond Standard Vodka

The world is awash in $30 vodkas. It takes serious cojones to price what is supposed to be a flavorless, clear spirit at more than twice that. At $73 and up, The Diamond Standard Vodka is one of the most expensive vodkas on the market (though there are pricier ones).

Calling itself “fashion you can drink,” Diamond Standard wears its luxe credo right on its bottle — encrusted with a giant 25mm Swarovski crystal and a diamond-shaped metal dog tag. Rest assured, before you even open the decanter, you know you’re dealing with something a bit above Popov.

Distilled from rye in Poland and filtered through (what else) DeBeers diamonds, it’s a standard 80 proof concoction. The vodka is, well, it’s fine. It reminds me of many other rye-based vodkas — an odd choice for a hyper-premium brand — with a hefty spicy character and a traditional medicinal finish. There’s a touch of lemon in the body, and a bittersweet finish. Really a very nice product, but is it worth $73 a bottle? Yow, that’s asking a lot in a down economy.

B+ / $73 / diamondstandardvodka.com

diamond standard vodka Review: The Diamond Standard Vodka

(actual bottle looks slightly different, font-wise, and has “tears” dripping down from the diamond)

Review: Mathilde Orange XO Liqueur

The Cognac Ferrand brand doesn’t just sell its cognac on its own, it also mixes the spirit with fruit infusions to create cognac-based liqueurs. We tried the company’s Orange XO, one of five liqueurs the company sells.

For starters, this is a dark, 80-proof spirit that’s in the Grand Marnier family (not the Cointreau/triple sec family), offering older, mature tones ouside of the clean orange flavor typical of the clear orange liqueurs. The color is actually darker than Grand Marnier, with a more subtle body. While Grand Marnier has a hotter, more alcoholic character, the Mathilde Orange XO tastes mellower, adding to the orange base notes of wood, vanilla, and butterscotch.

Very smooth, this actually more approachable on its own than Grand Marnier is, but works just as well as a cocktail ingredient. Very nice, and surprisingly affordable, too!

A- / $28 / mathildeliqueur.com

mithilde xo orange liqueur Review: Mathilde Orange XO Liqueur

Tasting Report: Four Upcoming French Wineries

Had the chance to meet and lunch with representatives of four French wine properties this week at San Francisco’s Boulevard restaurant. The properties are from all over France — Alsace, Loire, Bordeaux, and the Rhone Valley (what, no Burgundy?) — which gave us a chance to explore, in case we’d forgotten, how widely variable styles really vary from one region to the next.

Over the course of an epic, three-hour lunch, just nine wines were poured, but I wanted to offer some commentary on everything I had the chance to try. Far and away the favorite: Vidal-Fleury, an ancient property once visited by Thomas Jefferson, which is now owned by Guigal and is ramping up production once again. It’s La Chatillonne Cote-Rotie is an utter knockout, though at $109 a bottle (retail), it’s a splurge wine, to be sure.

Tour de France Event June 4, 2009 Tasting Report

  • NV Pierre Sparr Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rose / $19.00 / B+
  • 2002 Pierre Sparr Riesling Mambourg Grand Cru / $39.00 / B+ / amazing to try old Riesling, dark golden, full of old wood/mushroom notes, unlike any Riesling you’ve ever tried
  • 2007 Sauvion Haute Culture Chateau du Cleray Muscadet / $16.00 / B- / minerals, steel
  • 2007 Sauvion Sancerre / $29.00 / A- crisp, lemony perfume notes
  • 2008 Andre Lurton Ch. Bonnet Blanc, Entre-deux-Mers / $13.00 / B- / thin
  • 2005 Andre Lurton Ch. La Louviere Rouge, Pessac-Leognan / $52.00 / A- / opening well, muted earth, tight berries
  • 2006 Vidal-Fleury Cotes-du-Rhone Rouge / $13.00 / A- / strong blueberry notes
  • 2004 Vidal-Fleury Cote-Rotie La Chatillonne / $109.00 / A+ / the showstopper, incredibly rich, deep body, lush
  • 2007 Vidal-Fleury Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise / $34.00 / B- / phenolic

Review: The Glenrothes Select Reserve Single Malt Scotch Whisky

In its distinctive hand-grenade bottle (with cardboard shell), a bottle of Glenrothes comes across like a liquid hand grenade.

The Glenrothes Select Reserve is the entry-level variation on this whisky, an 80-proof concoction from Speyside with no age statement, a single malt vatted from Glenrothes whiskys of a variety of ages. (Since it’s all malted barley and all from Glenrothes, it’s still a single malt, not a blended/vatted malt.)

The color is medium gold, tinged with green. The nose is redolent of menthol and herbs, rosemary and thyme, while the body hits you with a hefty dose of orange citrus. I get a taste of briny seaweed in the finish, which isn’t particularly long but offers a surprising amount of heat for an 80-proof Scotch.

Somewhat out of balance, the flavor profile of Select Reserve is a bit all over the map, a kind of very early expression that cries for more time in the barrel to develop more sweetness and vanilla character.

B /$36 / theglenrothes.com

the glenrothes select reserve Review: The Glenrothes Select Reserve Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Review: Avitae Caffeinated Water

Take water. Add caffeine. You have just made Avitae, “energy water,” and officially written as “ávitãe” (but with a long dash over the second “a” instead of a tilde, can’t make ‘em with HTML).

Avitae’s promise is simple: You get purified water with 45mg of natural caffeine added (putting it in the same ballpark as your typical 12-oz. soft drink), no flavors of any kind, and no aftertaste. For the most part it lives up to that promise. This is very clean, clear water, with only the tiniest hint of a bitter aftertaste present — kind of like the flavor you get when you chew up an aspirin. But seriously, you have to strain to pick that out.

I’m not thrilled about the bottle shape, a cone-shaped design that, when wet (as with condensation straight out of the fridge), is prone to slipping in a floor-ward direction. The plastic is also very thin and makes weird noises when you squeeze it. Hey, maybe that means it’s good for the environment though.

B+ / $25 for 16 500ml bottles / avitae45.com [BUY IT HERE]

avitae water Review: Avitae Caffeinated Water