Monthly Archives: June 2009

Review: Three Old Williams & Humbert Rare Sherries

Posted on June 21, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

I’ve said before that I am not much of a sherry drinker, but seriously, Harvey’s Bristol Cream is about the only sherry that America knows: You even see it on the dessert wine list at some of the finest restaurants… despite the fact that you can nab a bottle for about 12 bucks.

Following up its 15-year Dry Sack Oloroso, Williams & Humbert offers these three new sherry bottlings, all well-aged and intriguing, and each quite different.

Don Guido Rare Old Sweet Solera Especial Pedro Ximenez, aged 20 years, is as thick and dark as black coffee. Nutty on the nose, it’s intensely raisiny on the palate and could easily pass for an old tawny Port. Not a lot of complexity here, to be honest. It’s a solid punch of raisin character sprinkled with wood notes, but a little cloying in its sweetness. (Not that I should be surprised — it says so right on the label.) 18% alcohol. B / $50

Dos Cortados Rare Old Palo Cortado Especial, aged 20 years, is frankly not my kind of sherry. Burnt golden in color, it has a promising and young nose, fragrant with wood and vanilla and raisiny Port-like character. But the body is nothing at all like that, surprisingly astringent and quite rustic, with a very dry, vegetal character. Hard to get past a few sips of this one. Maybe more up your alley if you’re into drier dessert wines; the company intriguingly suggests using it as a cocktail ingredient. 19.5% alcohol. C- / $50

Jalifa Rare Old Amontillado Solera Especial, aged 30 years, is the age king of this roundup, and it shares a lot of its DNA with the Dos Cortados. The color is similar to the Dos Cortados, but with a comparably muted nose, the lightest of this roundup. Again, this sherry is extremely dry, with a nutty body but a lingering acidity that borders on medicinal. Built for fans of the dry dessert stuff. 20.5% alcohol. C / $70

williams-humbert.com

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Posted in Port & Sherry, Rated B, Rated C, Rated C-, Reviews, Wine

Review: Maker’s Mark Bourbon Whisky

Posted on June 19, 2009 by Christopher Null| 8 Comments

I’ve written a lot about Maker’s Mark — hell, I spent like half a day with one of the “Makers,” Rob Samuels — but somehow I never got around to actually writing about the bourbon they make.

I’m not going to rehash the distillery’s history, but I will talk a bit about this phenomenally popular whisky (and yes, they spell it without an E, due to the family’s Scottish heritage).

Chances are you’re already familiar with Maker’s Mark. After Jack Daniel’s and Jim Beam, it’s one of the bestselling American whiskeys. That’s for good reason: Everybody likes Maker’s.

The company’s goal — to create a “soft,” easy-drinking bourbon — succeeds amiably here. There are great aromas of sugar cane and vanilla on the nose, and those are amplified in the body. I’ve faulted Maker’s Mark in the past for a slightly bitter finish, but if you add the slightest touch of water, that vanishes completely. Perhaps it’s because Maker’s comes at 90 proof instead of the usual 80?

There’s not a lot of mystery to Maker’s Mark, just pleasant, good-times, perfectly-sweet bourbon, great for sipping straight or with whatever mixer strikes your fancy. It’s not a whisky to ponder over, really. Just one to enjoy with the confidence that, no matter what bar or liquor store you walk into, they’re going to have plenty of this stuff to sell you, and for a very reasonable price.

A- / $22 / makersmark.com

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Posted in Bourbon, Rated A-, Reviews, Whiskey

Snapple Goes Natural

Posted on June 19, 2009 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

The call it the Best Stuff on Earth. Hyperbole, perhaps, but at least that now means it’s not loaded with corn syrup.

That’s right: Snapple has the “natural” bug, undergoing what the company calls the most significant makeover in its 37-year history, replacing corn syrup with natural cane sugar. (Previous “natural” claims got Snapple into legal trouble…) Depending on the variety, calories are reduced up to 20 percent in the process.

I’m trying two varieties — Green Tea and Peach Tea — and find both refreshing and completely lacking in any harsh chemical character. The Peach is appropriately sweet, lightly flavored (“natural flavors” and citric acid are the only ingredients beyond water, tea, and sugar) and with a good dose of fresh tea flavor (both black and green tea leaves are used). A 16-ounce bottle has 180 calories but (yikes) 45 grams of sugar.

The Green Tea is a little closer to something you might call healthy — 131 calories and just 33 grams of sugar in a 17.5-ounce bottle. Full of fresh, natural, green tea flavor and slightly less sugary, but still sweet.

I haven’t tried enough of the Snapple Natural varieties to offer a full grade or review, but am enjoying what I’ve tasted so far. (I wanted to compare them to the old, corn-syrup Snapples, but they all seem to have vanished from the market already.) Try one for yourself and see how you think the new Snapple stacks up!

$1.50 to $2 per bottle / snapple.com [BUY IT HERE]

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Posted in Mixers, Reviews

Review: Tanteo Flavored Tequilas

Posted on June 18, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Thanks to new Mexican legislation, flavored tequilas continue to arrive, and Tanteo has two of the most intriguing concoctions we’ve seen yet (plus one already-familiar infusion). All 100% agave, these three tequilas add natural flavors to an 80 proof base, with curious results. All appear to use unaged blanco tequila as the starting point: Though the final tequila in this tasting has a yellowish tint to it (not going to spoil the secret just yet), I presume that’s from the additional ingredients, not barrel aging.

Tanteo Tropical purports to be flavored with mango, pineapple, and guanabana, and “gently kissed with the essence of jalapeno.” In reality, this one’s pineapple all the way — the nose is filled with the spiny fruit’s signature flavor, and it’s strong on the body, too. Mango plays a distant second fiddle, but it’s there, alongside traditional, herbal agave notes. It’s like a pineapple vodka, but with more nuance. This is interesting when consumed solo (drink it cold or on the rocks), but it’s clearly destined for greater things as part of a unique margarita or, as the name suggests, as a replacement for rum in tropical drinks. A-

Tanteo Jalapeno doesn’t mince words: Its only infused additive is jalapeno peppers. A real bruiser, I was immediately reminded of Agave Loco‘s powerful concoction, though Tanteo’s version has considerably less peppery heat to it. As with Agave Loco, it’s not typical jalapeno that presents itself but more of a vinegary sport-pepper character. The burn is more akin to a strong black pepper or cayenne, particularly on the nose. Not bad at all, but as with all pepper-infused tequilas I’ve reviewed, it’s not for everyone. B+

Tanteo Chocolate – We save the most interesting for last. Because, seriously, who doesn’t like chocolate? A staple in Mexican cooking, it’s a natural addition to tequila, but also a really surprising one. In keeping with the theme, Tanteo adds not just chocolate extract to the tequila but also jalapeno again, too. The results are intriguing: Chocolate, not too dark or bittersweet, is the prevalent character, but the jalapeno creeps up on you in the finish (unlike in the Tropical, where it’s not really noticeable at all). The result is sweet followed by heat, and a long agave-like finish. Again I like this one served cold, and again it’s got tons of promise in cocktails, primarily in the dessert drink milieu. A-

$45 each / tanteotequila.com

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Posted in Rated A-, Rated B+, Reviews, Tequila

Recipe: The P.B.L.T.

Posted on June 18, 2009 by Christopher Null| 5 Comments

This is an insane amount of work for a drink (and it’s barely a drink), but I absolutely love the presentation. This recipe for a reinvented (and alcoholic) BLT sandwich comes from Gina Chersevani.

P.B.L.T.
1 oz Plymouth gin
1 cube of lettuce water
1 cube of tomato water
Spray vinegar on one side of glass and stick dehydrated bacon dust on side.

First spray vinegar on a glass and dip in dehydrated bacon dust, then place a lettuce water cube, tomato cube, then pour the Plymouth Gin over top.

Tomato Cubes

16 oz of fresh tomato juice (either in a juicer or done in a blender and then strained)
1 teaspoon of white pepper
1 pinch of fleur de sel
4 oz of fresh lemon juice
4 dashes of Tabasco

Combine all ingredients together and fill ice trays. Makes about 24-30 cubes

Lettuce Cubes

14 oz of lettuce water (2 large heads of iceberg lettuce, that has been juiced in a juicer)
1 teaspoon of white pepper
1 pinch of fleur de sel
4 oz of lemon juice

Combine all ingredients together and fill ice trays. Makes about 20-24 cubes

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Posted in Gin, Recipes

Testing WordPress-to-Twitter Feature…

Posted on June 18, 2009 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

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Review: LiV Vodka

Posted on June 17, 2009 by Christopher Null| 2 Comments

Who knew they grew potatoes on Long Island? Who knew they made vodka out of them?

Crazy, yet here we are, with LiV Vodka — aka Long Island Vodka, 80 proof, all potato-based, and bottled in French glass.

The flavor is unique. While it lacks a discernible nose, it’s got a huge rush of flavor on initial sipping. The body is initially like a blanco tequila, strong and herbal, with green pepper character. A traditional, medicinal vodka punch hits next, then fades to a semi-sweet, vanilla-touched finish.

Ultimately this is an interesting spirit, but I find it a bit too busy for casual consumption, a common complaint I tend to have with potato vodkas. That said, I can see this standing in — for tequila, even, give it a shot! — in some cocktails, and with a good vermouth and olives, it’s a solid martini base, too.

B / $34 / lispirits.com

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Posted in Rated B, Reviews, Vodka

Tasting Report: Napa/Sonoma Wineries, 2009

Posted on June 17, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Finally getting organized following four long (yet too short) days in Napa and Sonoma, with wine galore to talk about. We didn’t make it to as many wineries as we normally would have — an inner ear infection and two typically angsty children kept our winery-touring plans less ambitious than we might otherwise have undertaken, but all told we managed to check out 66 wines over the course of the trip — most from wineries we’d never visited before.

Highlights include Luna Vineyards, a smallish winery I’ve driven past on the Silverado Trail dozens of times but finally stopped in to check out — and was amazingly impressed. All of their wines were worth buying, something I never find from even my favorite wineries.

Also enjoyed Nicholson Ranch, a foreboding, corporate-looking building on a hilltop in Carneros. Again, I’d driven by dozens of times, but finally stopped in. Impressive wines, nearly across the board.

Longboard was also an excellent stop, with a series of outstanding syrahs at rock-bottom prices. Amazing value — plus the winery stays open late and shows surfer videos on the TVs in the tasting room.

Also had the special privilege of meeting Cathy Corison of Corison Winery, during our visit there, and got to try arguably the best wine of the trip, her 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Kronos Vineyard. At $125 a bottle, alas, it was also the priciest wine of the trip, too. Settled for a bottle of her Helios Cabernet Franc, a rich and exciting wine that is a testament to what skilled hands can do with a tricky grape.

Good times all around. Complete ratings follow.

Complete Tasting Report – Napa and Sonoma 2009

NV Little Vineyards Band Blend Track 3 / $17.00 / B+
2006 Little Vineyards Zinfandel / $25.00 / B-
2007 Little Vineyards Syrah-Zinfandel / $25.00 / B
2006 Little Vineyards Syrah / $30.00 / B+
2005 Little Vineyards Syrah / $30.00 / A-
2006 Little Vineyards Center Stage / $40.00 / B+
2006 Little Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon / $40.00 / B+
2007 Arrowood Cote de Lune Blanc / $25.00 / C+
2007 Arrowood Viognier Saralee’s Vineyard / $30.00 / B
2004 Arrowood Syrah Dry Creek Kuljia / $37.00 / B+
2005 Arrowood Cote de Lune Rouge / $30.00 / B+
2004 Arrowood Syrah Saralee’s Vineyard / $40.00 / B+
2007 Longboard Sauvignon Blanc RRV / $20.00 / A-
2007 Longboard Pinot Noir RRV / $33.00 / B+
2007 Longboard Merlot Dakine Vineyard / $24.00 / A-
2006 Longboard North Coast Syrah / $20.00 / A-
2005 Longboard Syrah RRV / $28.00 / A
2005 Longboard Syrah Dakine Vineyard / $45.00 / A
2007 Longboard Late Harvest Semillon / $35.00 / A-
2006 Passalacqua Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel Estate / $36.00 / B+
2006 Passalacqua Dry Creek Valley Primitivo Lavender Hill / $36.00 / B
2006 Passalacqua Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel Maple Vineyard / $38.00 / A-
2005 Passalacqua Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon TR Passalacqua Vineyard Blocks 18 & 19 / $65.00 / A-
2008 Bartholomew Park Winery Sauvignon Blanc Estate Vineyard / $21.00 / B+
2006 Bartholomew Park Winery Zinfandel Estate Vineyard / $38.00 / B
2006 Bartholomew Park Winery Syrah Estate Vineyard / $38.00 / B-
2005 Bartholomew Park Winery Merlot Desnudos Vineyard / $32.00 / B
2006 Bartholomew Park Winery Merlot Desnudos Vineyard / $32.00 / B-
2004 Bartholomew Park Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Vineyard / $40.00 / B
2005 Bartholomew Park Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Kasper Vineyard / $40.00 / B+
2008 Loxton Rose / $17.00 / B
2007 Loxton Chardonnay Parmelee-Hill / $28.00 / B
2006 Loxton Zinfandel Hillside Vineyards / $24.00 / B+
2005 Loxton Syrah 10th Anniversary / $30.00 / A
2007 Loxton Port Syrah / $28.00 / B+
2005 Corison Corazon Gewurztraminer / $30.00 / B-
2007 Corison Corazon Cabernet Rose / $24.00 / B+
2004 Corison Helios Merlot / $28.00 / B+
2005 Corison Helios Cabernet Franc / $32.00 / A-
2005 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley / $75.00 / B+
2004 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon Kronos Vineyard / $125.00 / A
2006 Grgich Hills Chardonnay Napa Valley / $42.00 / B+
2007 Grgich Hills Fume Blanc Napa Valley / $30.00 / B+
2006 Grgich Hills Zinfandel Napa Valley / $35.00 / B
2005 Grgich Hills Merlot Napa Valley / $42.00 / B+
2005 Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley / $60.00 / A-
2006 Grgich Hills Violetta Napa Valley / $85.00 / A-
2006 Nicholson Ranch Estate Chardonnay / $24.00 / B
2006 Nicholson Ranch Estate Reserve Chardonnay / $48.00 / A-
2007 Nicholson Ranch Estate Chardonnay / $30.00 / A-
2006 Nicholson Ranch Russian River Pinot Noir / $42.00 / A-
2007 Nicholson Ranch Estate Pinot Noir / $38.00 / A-
2006 Nicholson Ranch Las Madres Syrah / $35.00 / A-
2004 Nicholson Ranch Estate Syrah / $40.00 / B
2007 Miner Viognier Simpson Vineyard / $20.00 / C+
2007 Miner Viognier Wild Yeast / $35.00 / C-
2008 Miner Rosato Mendocino / $15.00 / C+
2006 Miner Sangiovese Gibson Ranch / $24.00 / B
2006 Miner Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville / $65.00 / B+
2005 Miner The Oracle Napa Valley / $90.00 / A
2007 Miner Pinot Noir Carneros / $40.00 / B+
2007 Luna Vineyards Chardonnay Napa Valley / $40.00 / A-
2006 Luna Vineyards Sangiovese Reserve Napa Valley / $50.00 / A-
2006 Luna Vineyards Canto / $60.00 / A-
2005 Luna Vineyards Howell Mountain Merlot / $75.00 / A
2005 Luna Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve / $100.00 / A-

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Posted in Reviews, Wine

Review: Oro de Oaxaca Mezcal

Posted on June 16, 2009 by Christopher Null| 7 Comments

Nothing about Oro de Oaxaca Mezcal screams “premium.” It’s got a cheap bottle (with plastic cap), primary-color logo, and mystery bag of “chile” attached to the neck (more on that in a moment)… and of course it’s also got a worm sunken to the bottom of the bottle.

Ignore all that and tuck into a glass.

Intensely smoky on the nose and the palate, Oro de Oaxaca is one of the biggest mezcals around. If you’re into the smoke thing, you’re going to love this stuff — it’ll knock you down like you’re firing up a pipe.

Beneath the smoke, there’s a bit of fire — some alcoholic heat, a touch of sweetness, and green pepper notes. Pleasant overall, really, with that smoke laced throughout.

Oro de Oaxaca is light gold in color but it doesn’t indicate (nor can I discern) how long it’s been aged, if at all (that is, whether caramel color plays a large role here). I wouldn’t guess it spends long in barrels — maybe a few months. What wood is here is washed out by the smokiness, anyway.

Oh, and about that little bag of chile: It’s salt, ground chile pepper, and ground-up roasted maguey worms. Hey, hey — come back. It’s not that gross. The flavor is actually pretty good, salty/spicy just as you’d expect, and not too hot nor too wormy. There are no instructions included for its consumption, but I presume it’s a substitute for the salt in the traditional salt-booze-lime shot combo. If you’re the kind of guy that pounds his tequila/mezcal, well, you could do worse than having a little ground-up worm in your salt. That’s protein, folks.

80 proof.

B+ / $30 / scorpionmezcal.com

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Posted in Mezcal, Rated B+, Reviews, Tequila

Review: 2005 Dievole Chianti Classico Riserva Novecento

Posted on June 16, 2009 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

Quite a surprise from this Chianti Classico, super-priced at 50 bucks a bottle but rather staid in the glass.

Dievole imbues this Tuscan wine with a dusty, chalky texture, and it’s extremely young on the palate. Decanting helps, bringing out flavors of roasted meat, red peppers, fig, and tobacco — but the finish is too thin and a little alcoholic in character. It’s hard to peg as typical of Chianti, but it has a fair enough charm to merit a look.

B / $50 / dievole.it