Monthly Archives: May 2009

Review: Quady Electra and Red Electra

What an idea: Chill a wine shortly after fermentation begins and then filter and bottle it right there: You’re left with a quite sweet proto-wine (because most of the sugar in the grapes remains in the juice) with a low level of alcohol.

In the case of Electra, which is the juice of orange muscat grapes that’s had its fermentation arrested, that alcohol level is a mere 4 percent, less than beer and about a third that of a typical wine.

There’s also a Red Electra, which is based on regular muscat grapes and which hits 5.5 percent alcohol.

The fun thing about these wines is the way they taste fizzy without actually being sparkling wines — in fact that’s how they got their names — but because they’re so low in alcohol they can be consumed any time, at lunch with your picnic or as a dessert wine. The overwhelming sweetness makes them a tough match for many foods however, but the Red Electra’s sweetness is tempered a bit by that tiny amount of extra alcohol, so if you’re going to try these with anything this side of cheesecake, I’d suggest you start there. (That sweetness also messes with your mind and your palate — our brains are wired to assume that wines this sweet are high in alcohol.)

Surprisingly, the two wines — though wildly different in appearance — taste a lot alike. Muscat is muscat, to some extent, I guess. The orange muscat-based Electra has a stronger honey and citrus character, and it has quite a bit more of that fizziness than the Red Electra. The Red is also quite sweet, but more restrained, and it has cinnamon notes that give it a character almost like a mild sangria. It’s telling that when I opened both bottles at once — 2007 vintages — the Red was consumed twice as fast as the standard Electra, though both are worth trying.

Drink very cold.

Electra: B+ / $12.75
Red Electra: A- / $12.75 (label pictured)

quadywinery.com

quady red electra wine Review: Quady Electra and Red Electra

Busch Up, Bud Down

A sour economy is boosting the fortunes of cheap beer: Sales of Busch and Miller High Life are up and the last year, while sales of “premium” beers like Budweiser and Miller Lite (yes, in the beverage world these are considered premium products) are down. In the case of Bud, by 7.4 percent since a year ago.

From the Wall Street Journal:

By contrast, the U.S. beer industry’s total volume rose just 0.5%. Sales of “premium” beers, such as Bud Light and Miller Lite, which account for about half the industry’s total sales, fell 1.4%.

For shoppers, the math is simple. While prices vary, Busch Light or MillerCoors’s Keystone Light generally cost around $14 a case, about $5 less than a case of Bud Light or Coors Light.

Not long ago, drinkers were “trading up,” favoring imports, small-batch “craft” beers and premium lights. Now, Heineken and other import brands are struggling, and the growth of craft beers has slowed.

The gist: All hail Natty Light!

Review: The Macallan 15 Year Fine Oak

It is difficult, if not impossible, to go wrong with a dram of Macallan in any of its forms, and the distillery’s 15-year-old Fine Oak expression is no exception to that rule.

The Fine Oak line is aged in a combination of three casks — ex-sherry casks from European oak, ex-sherry casks from American oak, and ex-bourbon casks from American oak. The expression comes in nine different ages from 8 to 30 years old — so this 15 year is actually on the young side of the range.

Surprisingly light in color for a 15-year, that lightness carries over to the body, which offers a taste of honey and vanilla around an applesauce core. The finish is light and quick, leaving a fresh feel in the mouth and, of course, a thirst for another glass.

I normally prefer single malt a little fuller in body than this, but it’s so easygoing it’s hard not to enjoy it despite its “lite” Scotch character. This is a warm-weather malt and one you needn’t feel bad about enjoying on the rocks or even with soda, if that’s your thing, though I find it fully enjoyable served neat, with or without water.  That said, it’s tough to justify a $40 premium over the “standard” 12-year Sherry Oak Macallan, which has the same DNA but packs a bigger, fuller body and a rich flavor that makes it such an unequivocal favorite.

86 proof.

B+ / $78 / themacallan.com

macallan fine oak 15 years Review: The Macallan 15 Year Fine Oak

Review: 2007 Robert Oatley Shiraz South Australia

This line of wines, founded by 80-year-old Robert Oatley, who originated the Rosemount Estate brand, marks a return to U.S. soil from the Australian impresario.

A selection of varietals — Chardonnay, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio,  a Cabernet-Merlot blend, and a Sangiovese Rose — are being made available, all with an avowed “modern” approach to winemaking.

Oatley’s Shiraz is very simple and easy-drinking, a fine choice for a weeknight pizza dinner or another simple meal. The wine is very dry, features a solid amount of black pepper wrapped around a dark yet mild plum core. It goes down easy but lacks much in the way of complexity, which makes it a real crowd-pleaser but not much of a memorable one. At $17, this actually feels a bit overpriced vs. the Aussie competition of late.

B+ / $17 / robertoatley.com

robert oatley shiraz Review: 2007 Robert Oatley Shiraz South Australia

Review: Cofia Hazelnut/Espresso Vodka

cofia vodka Review: Cofia Hazelnut/Espresso VodkaMan that’s good stuff. Threading a fine line between a standard coffee-flavored vodka and Frangelico, Bendistillery’s Cofia is about as good as flavored vodkas get.

Actually, at just 50 proof it’s practically more a liqueur than a vodka, but that just goes to show how much flavoring goes into this spirit. Those flavors — all natural, mind you — infuse Bendistillery’s Crater Lake vodka with an intense and rich character. The hazelnut, richly roasted, is strongest on the nose, while the coffee character comes out most strongly in the body. It’s sweet, but not cloying, and it goes down oh so easily. Probably too easily, to be frank.

Infinitely mixable, Cofia has become a popular dessert drink ingredient at Drinkhacker HQ, where it’s gotten to the point where I had to hurry up and grab a fresh shot for this review before the bottle was emptied.

That said, while the flavor of Cofia is to die for, the ’70s-styled label is a matter that’s somewhat less universally agreed upon…

A / $30 / bendistillery.com

Review: Deschutes Brewery The Abyss Aged Stout

The Abyss is insane beer. It is obviously named for its coal-black color and deep, deep flavor profile. It’s a limited edition beer that you’ll have trouble finding, but if you’re a dark beer lover (and I’m talking dark beer), you’re going to dig this one hard.

Vintage dated (this bottle was released in November 2008; “2008″ alone appears on the label), The Abyss is technically a Russian Imperial Stout in style, a boozy beer at 11 percent alcohol and brewed with molasses and licorice (the good stuff). After it’s brewed, a third of the batch is aged in new oak and old whiskey barrels before bottling. The result is an unfathomably complex beer that defies categorization.

The Abyss bears all the hallmarks of its ingredient list: Cocoa and sugary molasses up front, intense wood notes as it goes down, and a hint of licorice on the finish along with a bracing slug of bitterness.

The only oddity is the lack of much in the way of a head. It’s a little strange because, as it settles, The Abyss could easily pass for a cup of coffee to a casual passerby. Then again, depending on when and where you’re trying to drink this stuff, maybe that’s a good thing.

Also: Try adding a shot of Cofia espresso/hazelnut vodka to your pint — this is sanctioned by the brewery, I swear — the ultimate concoction is downright awesome.

Good luck trying to find it.

A / $12 per 22-oz. bottle / deschutesbrewery.com

the abyss Review: Deschutes Brewery The Abyss Aged Stout

Review: Tequila Tierras

One last look at tequila before this year’s Cinco de Mayo fades into the history books. This one a new brand in the States, Tierras.

Staking its claim as the first USDA Organic tequila available in the U.S. — although 4 Copas is also organic, it’s not USDA certified to that effect — Tierras comes in the usual three varieties, all 80 proof and, until distribution expands a little wider, all tough to find for now.

Tierras Blanco – Fairly mild for a blanco, and quite enjoyable. Good agave notes and a deep, finish. I’d swear there’s oak in here, but it’s crystal clear. Perhaps it’s more of a root-like earth flavor that comes across so clearly. (Which would be appropriate: “tierras” means “earth” in Spanish.) Difficult to put one’s finger on the subtle notes here, but quite enjoyable as a sipper. A- / $40

Tierras Reposado – Continues that mild, easygoing streak that the blanco began. The company specifies 8 to 10 months are spent in oak, but that’s hard to believe based on the light color and smooth body. Still, this is a perfectly serviceable reposado, but I think it loses some of that curious earthiness that the blanco has. Wholly worthwhile, though. B+ / $43

Tierras Anejo – Ups the color with 18 to 20 months in wood, but retains a lot of the earlier expressions’ character. It’s more flavorful than either of its predecessors, with agave surprisingly showing stronger than in the younger tequilas. The woody vanilla and agave don’t meld as seamlessly as I’d hoped here, leaving this tequila a touch out of balance. But that’s largely made up for with an interestingly minty/wintergreen finish. B+ / $45

castlebrands.com

Review: Gran Centenario Rosangel Hibiscus Tequila

We’ve gone through flavored vodka and flavored rum. Now you can start adding flavored tequilas — hitting the market in earnest now — to the mix.

Unlike, say, Agave Loco, Centenario’s Rosangel is a much more subtle product. The only similarity is the original base spirit: Reposado tequila, rested for two months (in Port barrels in the case of Rosangel). Centenario then infuses the tequila with hibiscus flowers (not roses, mind you),and once it’s taken on a pink hue, it’s bottled and sold for you to sample.

The experience is quite unique. Though quite flowery on the nose, the initial taste is vanilla-packed tequila with a decent amount of agave flavor in it. The finish brings on, however, not tequila’s frequent astringency but a hefty flower power that lingers a bit, quite pleasantly. It actually does taste more rose-like than hibiscus (perhaps an instructive in how it was named), but in any case it’s definitively flowery in character.

As intriguing as Rosangel is, it is more curious as a cocktail ingredient than on its own, and I’ve spent the last two weeks tinkering with it while sipping it straight. Sub it in for regular tequila in any recipe to spin your cocktail in a different direction. The best thing I’ve created, though, is a spin on the company’s own margarita recipe. Mine — recipe below — is simplified a bit from Centenario’s, and it lets the Rosangel shine a bit more clearly. Oh, and trust me, you don’t need salt.

80 proof.

A- / $35 / rosangel.com

The Drinkhacker Rosangel Margarita
1 1/2 oz. Rosangel tequila
1/2
oz. Cointreau
1 tbsp agave nectar
1 1/2 oz. Cranberry Juice
Juice of 1/2 a lime

Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a coupe glass.

rosangel tequila bottle Review: Gran Centenario Rosangel Hibiscus Tequila

Whisky Goes Nuclear

How do you tell whether an old bottle of Scotch is legit or a phony? Well, you could send it to me and I’ll drink it and let you know… or you could run it through a whisky Geiger counter:

Scientists have found that minute levels of radioactive carbon absorbed by the barley as it grew before it was harvested to make the whisky can betray how old it is.

Researchers at the Oxford Radiocarbon Accelerator Unit, which is funded by the National Environmental Research Council, discovered that they could pinpoint the date a whisky was made by detecting traces of radioactive particles created by nuclear bomb tests in the 1950s.

They can also use natural background levels of radioactivity to identify whiskies that were made in earlier centuries.

Counterfeiters: You are now on notice!

Tasting Report: 2008 California Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Samples

What!? We’re writing about 2008 wines when many wineries are still tricking out their 2006 vintages!? That’s right: Barrel sampling season is underway for the 2008 vintage of California Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines have been in oak for a few months now and are starting to show their true colors.

I spent several hours tasting my way through 49 samples of 2008 Cabernets drawn from the barrel and found a lot to like. While it’s impossible to judge exactly how these wines will turn out after many more months in oak and time in the bottle, I found at least a few wines which I would happily drink today.

On the whole, 2008 looks a pretty good year, with plenty of fresh fruit in the wines. Sure, there are some enormous tannin bombs in the mix — they may need years in the bottle before they’re ready for consumption — but on the whole most of these wines feel like they’ll be close to ready to drink on release.

Ratings for the wines I sampled are below. Unless noted, the wine tasted was the winery’s standard bottling, or one at least which did not designate a reserve or special vineyard source. Remember of course that all these ratings are loose and subject to amendment (possibly wildly so) after the wines are released… in 2011 or thereabouts.

Alas, I barely made it through a little over half of the 90 wines available before my palate was so crusted with tannin I had to call it quits — apologies to the wineries whose products I didn’t get to try. Complete ratings and selected notes follow.

2008 California Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Samples

Arns / B+
Arrowood / A-
Atlas Peak / A-
Barnett / A / outstanding – could drink this today
Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve / B+ / odd menthol notes
Bell Wine Cellars / B-
Buoncristiani / B-
Cain Five / C+ / textbook, barnyardy Cain
Carter Cellars / A-
Chalk Hill / A-
Chimney Rock Ganymede Vineyard / B
Clark-Claudon / B-
Cliff Lede / B-
Clos Pegase / B-
Corison / A- / wonderful cocoa notes
Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill / A- / huge wine, tannic, chocolate infused
Diamond Terrace / A- / silky
EMH Vineyards / B+
Frias Family Vineyard / A- / intriguing jamminess
Guilliams Vineyards / A-
Hendry Ranch Winery / B+
Hidden Ridge / B
Jordan / B+
Justin / B- / absurdly fruity
Kuleto Estate / A-
Martin Estate / B-
Merryvale / B+
Mi Sueño / B+
O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery / A- / inky dark
Owl Ridge Wines Passalacqua Vineyard / B-
Piña Firehouse Vineyard / A / awesome wine, great balance
Robert Craig / B
Robert Mondavi / B+
Sequum / B- / another with a crazy amount of sweet fruit
Sherwin Family Vineyards / B+
Silver Oak Jump Rock Vineyard / B+
Sojourn Cellars / B
Spring Mountain / B+
St. Supery / B-
Star Lane / B
Sullivan Vineyards / A-
Terlato Family Vineyards / B+ / very curious chocolate raisin character
Titus Vineyards / A-
Trinchero / B-
Viader / A / richly tannic, has years in it
Volker Eisele / C+
Whitehall Lane Reserve / B- / odd skunky notes
Yates Family Vineyard / A-
ZD Wines / B+

2008 cabernet sauvignon barrel samples Tasting Report: 2008 California Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Samples