Monthly Archives: May 2009

Review: Deschutes Brewery Red Chair IPA

At just 6.4% alcohol, this is a wee babe in the world of Deschutes’ high-alcohol brews, which is good because that means you might be able to have more than one pint before you’re totally lit.

Considerably less bitter than your usual IPA, Red Chair is a deep amber beer with a hug head and a moderate citrus character. Smooth on the finish, this is an easy-drinking brew, falling in the middle ground between a light pilsner style and the bitter world of pale ales. Goes down very easy.

It doesn’t remind in any way whatsoever of a red chair — though the beer is actually named after a Mt. Bachelor chairlift and was originally brewed onsite on the mountain. And come to think of it, this would be a perfect beer for guzzling after a long bunch of runs on the slopes.

B+ / $4.69 per 22-oz. bottle / deschutesbrewery.com

red chair ipa1 Review: Deschutes Brewery Red Chair IPA

Review: Gran Centenario Leyenda Extra Anejo Tequila

Reportedly the first ever “extra anejo tequila” — a new designation recently allowed under Mexican law, established in 2006 for tequilas aged three years or longer — commercially released (others have since followed), Gran Centenario’s Leyenda is as dark a tequila as I’ve ever seen.

The oak-brown color is seriously misleading, for this is as smooth a spirit as you’ll find (especially in the tequila world), offering spearmint tones on the nose and very surprising citrus character alongside deep vanilla notes in the body from all that time in wood. Orange and spice linger on the finish, giving way to a minty finale that is crystal clear and silky clean.

Does an extra year in the barrel and a fancy bottle merit a 4x increase in price? You be the judge — but money notwithstanding, this is one of the best tequilas on the market today.

A / $223 / grancentenario.com

gran centenario leyenda extra anejo1 Review: Gran Centenario Leyenda Extra Anejo Tequila

Original Recipe: Great Prince of the Forest

Inspired by Rich Goldsmith (who asked if the primary two ingredients would work together — they do, and well), innovated by yours truly. I mixed up a bunch of these for our dinner guests tonight and they all went down quick.

Great Prince of the Forest
1 1/2 oz. Jim Beam Red Stag
3/4 oz. Thatcher’s Organic Apple Spice Ginger Liqueur
2 oz. ginger beer (or more to taste)

Fill a tall rocks glass with ice, then add all ingredients. Stir gently and serve.

great prince of the forest Original Recipe: Great Prince of the Forest

Review: Stevens Point Whole Hog IPA & Imperial Pilsner

Stevens Point releases these two new brews — be careful, as the labels and bottles look nearly identical — in time for summer. Both are limited edition releases, so shop early and shop often if you want to nab them.

Whole Hog Six-Hop IPA is a beer with a gimmick, but it’s a fun gimmick at least. It uses six kinds of hops in its quest to create what is a quite flavorful IPA with a bracing degree of bitterness to it. Big and malty, with a heavy 8.5% alcohol level and a quite hoppy finish, it’s IPA but without so much of the citrus character that many ales of this style exhibit. Pretty good, but a little boozy. B+

Whole Hog Imperial Pilsner is somewhat lighter than the Six-Hop, but not by a huge margin. Lemony in body, it also has a strongly hoppy character (and again that 8.5% alcohol level) that gives it serious legs to stand on. Reminiscent of a wheat beer, it’s got more fruitiness than a standard pilsner, and more hop character than either a regular pilsner or a wheat brew. I like it about as much as the Six-Hop. B+

both $6 to $7 per four-pack / pointbeer.com

stevens point whole hog ipa Review: Stevens Point Whole Hog IPA & Imperial Pilsner

Review: Corzo Silver Tequila

Fragrant with light evergreen notes, Corzo is a delicate, lovely blanco tequila (100% agave, of course) that deserves top-shelf attention.

Most blancos are heavy with vegetal agave notes — which can be pleasant but are often overpowering and sometimes harsh. Corzo is refined, but also full of flavor. It’s a bit minty, a bit like visiting a forest (though not specifically woody, which would be strange in an unaged tequila), and quite creamy in mouth feel.

The round body leads to a crazy smooth finish, so much so that I actually murmured something to the effect of wow… as I headed in for another taste. Blanco tequilas don’t often come along this complex and interesting yet so easy to drink.

The bottle as well deserves special mention, a glass monolith that resembles a giant perfume bottle. It looks like it’ll be hard to pour from, but Corzo obviously spent some design time to avoid spills. That little lip at the spout works like a small trough which funnels the tequila outward appropriately and gently as you pour it. Even pouring into a narrow pony glass, I didn’t spill a drop.

Thank God for that.

A / $43 / corzo.com

corzo silver tequila Review: Corzo Silver Tequila

Review: Rehorst Vodkas and Gin

Rehorst? Funny name for a vodka, but it’s the name of the man behind Great Lakes Distillery in Wisconsin, which puts out this “Milwaukee Vodka” in a standard and unusual flavored version as well as a gin.

We tried all three. Here’s how they stack up.

Rehorst Vodka is distilled from red wheat and malted red wheat, and offers a very traditional approach to vodka. The nose is moderately medicinal, but the body is lighter, with a sweet entry and bread-like character to the body. The finish is lingering, but pleasant, very lightly bitter, and a bit metallic. Pleasant. 80 proof. B / $30

Rehorst Citrus & Honey Vodka – A flavored first for me — citrus and honey? The nose is heavy with orange and some lime notes, but I didn’t get much honey (other than vague sweetener) until I tried it in a cocktail, when the honey flavors blossomed. This is not altogether fascinating on its own, but it shines as a substitute for regular vodka or gin in any number of cocktails simple or complex. 80 proof. B+ / $30

Rehorst Gin offers a traditional nose, with a little kick. Rehorst kicks up its traditional botanicals (juniper is on the heavy side) with the addition of two unique extras: sweet basil and Wisconsin ginseng. The combination is quite engaging, and you can certainly taste strong citrus and ginseng notes in the spirit. Maybe no basil specifically, but in the combination Rehorst has hit upon, it all comes together quite impressively. My favorite spirit of the bunch. 88 proof. A- / $30


New York Times Rates Absinthe

Ever so quick to jump on the absinthe bandwagon, the New York Times has finally weighed in on the absinthe phenomenon, and has even gone so far as to rank its favorite absinthes, as determined by a tasting panel which went through 20 bottlings. (I shudder to think of the aftermath of that event.) Their results:

1. Kubler
2. Grande
3. Pernod
4. Emile Pernot
5. St. George
6. Jade Nouvelle-Orleans
7. Obsello
8. La Clandestine
9. Lucid
10. Mansinthe

I haven’t tried a few of these products but overall the rankings are fairly agreeable. I think Kubler is overrated here, and Obsello deserves a higher spot, but otherwise (not including the three I haven’t tried), this seems like a pretty fair list.

I’m sure many will find plenty of room for disagreement in the comments…

Review: Martell Exquisite L’Or de Jean Martell Cognac

We’ve reviewed rare spirits before, but Martell’s Exquisite L’Or de Jean Martell cognac is to date the absolute rarest: Just 120 bottles are being sold. We got a taste — not much, mind you — but enough for a serious review.

And my how quickly that went down. The 80-proof Martell’s Exquisite L’Or is, indeed, exquisite. This cognac is a combination of several hundred barrels drawn from four growths — Grand Champagne, Petite Champagne, Fins Bois, and Borderies — and matured in oak for decades. The oldest eau de vie in the blend dates back to 1830. Not a typo.

Despite the dark burgundy color, this is a surprisingly delicate and light brandy, very refined yet overwhelmingly full of flavor. It’s as smooth as candy, the perfect amount of sweetness overlaid with honey, gingerbread, toffee, old wood, and a touch of coffee in both the body and the nose. The finish is a lovely little spiced apple number, and it goes down almost absurdly smoothly. I’ve never drained a glass of any spirit so quickly — and cried when I realized there was no more to be had.

Of course this all begs the question of whether, as they say, it’s worth it. At $3,600 a bottle, a single glass of Exquisite L’Or de Jean Martell will set you back a cool $240. (Though you do get an awesome decanter when you’re finished…) That’s an impossible number to get a handle on, to be honest. But I’m here to answer: Is it worth it?

Yes, yes it is.

A+ / $3,600 / martell.com

martell exquisite lor Review: Martell Exquisite LOr de Jean Martell Cognac

Review: Gvori Vodka

gvori vodka Review: Gvori VodkaPolish. Distilled from rye (four times). Positioned as a luxury brand. At 13 bucks a bottle.

Gvori’s price is hard to beat — go much lower and you’re getting your vodka in plastic jugs — but the body of this one is exceedingly unusual.

The initial palate is quite sweet, but then it fades quickly leaving behind a gentle bitterness. There are medicinal qualities in the mid-palate, but the entire affair is quite short, so it also fades rapidly. My first impression was of a much stronger, charcoal character, but giving it a little time to open up and temper itself in the glass proved beneficial, and the vodka smoothed itself out quite nicely.

On the whole, this is a fine vodka for the price. Perfectly serviceable as a well brand, but not intriguing enough to merit seeking out especially.

80 proof.

B+ / $13 / pacificedgesales.com

Review: Thatcher’s Organic Artisan Liqueurs

Typical liqueurs may be bottom shelf at your local liquor store, but this stuff, this is the real deal. Thatcher’s is distilled in rural Michigan, using organic ingredients and even organic fruit juice for appropriate coloring. These liqueurs are in very limited distribution right now, but pester your local booze merchant, because they’re worth checking out.

We tried three of the current eight flavors. All are a mere 30 proof and can be heartily enjoyed on the rocks — or try them in any number of cocktail recipes, as they’re all quite versatile. All retail at or below $25 per bottle.

Thatcher’s Cucumber is the subtle one of the bunch, but it’s also a masterpiece. Overflowing with fresh cucumber flavors, it has a moderate sweetness that balances the bracing and refreshingly unique character of the inimitable cucumber. This is not a complicated liqueur, but it’s a truly delicious one. Hard to put down, and nearly perfect. A

Thatcher’s Apple Spice Ginger is heavy on the apple and has a strong cinnamon kick. I struggled to find the ginger part of the spirit, but it’s there if you hunt for it. Not sure you need it, though. Quite sweet, this is like apple cider for grown-ups, which makes it a good companion to bourbon, and only slightly less pleasurable on its own. A-

Thatcher’s Tres Chiles – That’s three chiles, gringo: jalapeno, habanero, and serrano peppers in a sweet liqueur base. The aroma is of sweet strawberry, and the light pink color indicates light fruitiness. The initial palate bears that out, and the heat comes after — a pleasant and surprisingl mild slug of spice that creeps up very slowly and is not at all overpowering like you get with chile-infused tequilas. Still, this is the least exciting flavor of the bunch when consumed on its own — it absolutely calls for a mixer; tequila is the obvious choice. B+

My one complaint with Thatcher’s is the kind of low-end packaging. The bottle looks like something you’d get a sparkling lemonade in, with a flimsy, stamped-aluminum closure. This is a top-shelf spirit that deserves a top-shelf bottle!

thatchersorganic.com