Monthly Archives: May 2009

Review: Vieux Carré Absinthe

Posted on May 25, 2009 by Christopher Null| 5 Comments

It is fortunately far easier to drink Vieux Carré Absinthe than it is to type Vieux Carré Absinthe.

This absinthe is produced by Philadelphia Distilling (which also created the fine Bluecoat Gin) and is composed, as the bottle tells us, of “grain neutral spirits distilled with herbs with additional herbs added.” No mention of artificial color, and in the glass it indeed looks authentic, a deep yellow tinged with green.

At bottle strength (120 proof) it is extremely boozy but offers surprising depth of bittersweet anise character. When prepared traditionally, it creates a medium to strong louche, with a curious, thin foam-like film on top. Not at all unpleasant, but noteworthy and unusual.

The prepared absinthe is extremely easy-drinking and very pleasant, a licorice kick with gentle sweetness and a bittersweet finish. Difficult to pick out specific herbs that might be used in addition to classic wormwood, anise, and fennel, but there’s a faint muscular flavor to it — almost like hints of chimichurri sauce, which I happen to love.

As for the name, it’s drawn from the French phrase for the French Quarter in New Orleans. The bottle is also of note, a thick, heavy, and beautiful decanter that, when full, is completely illegible since it’s covered in an opaque, lacy green design, making the spirit inside look far darker than it actually is while wholly obscuring the label (the bottle shot below must have been lit with a hundred halogen lights). Luckily, you won’t need to read this one closely: You’ll know it when you see it. As absinthes go, it’s an excellent value too, by the way.

A- / $60 / vieuxcarreabsinthe.com (website is currently buggy)

→ 5 Comments

Posted in Absinthe, Rated A-, Reviews

World’s Worst Diet: Red Bull for Eight Months

Posted on May 23, 2009 by Christopher Null| 3 Comments

There are bad diet ideas, and then there’s this one: A woman lost 99 pounds over the course of eight months by consuming a diet consisting solely of up to 14 cans of Red Bull a day, “often accompanying them with nothing more than a handful of dry Honey Puffs.”

From Stuff.co.nz:

“I just continued to drink it because it’s an appetite suppressant and I noticed I was losing weight so stuck with it.”

Ms Robertson said she managed to keep her addiction secret from family and friends, and did not recover from it until after a two-week stay in hospital following a minor heart attack.

She’s better now.. except for a heart murmur and ongoing stomach and bowel cramps. And frequent anxiety attacks.

→ 3 Comments

Posted in Drinking Science, Mixers

Review: Vermeer Dutch Chocolate Cream Liqueur

Posted on May 23, 2009 by Christopher Null| 3 Comments

Chocolate-based liqueurs are hardly a new phenomenon, but few spirits we know of have works of art reproduced on their labels. In this case, it’s Johannes Vermeer’s “Girl with the Pearl Earring” gazing out at you while you get your chocolate fix.

Now we don’t know what kind of a drinker Vermeer really was — though we doubt he was sipping chocolate martinis — but we’re sure he would have enjoyed his namesake tipple.

This 34-proof liqueur is fairly straightforward, a creamy version of, say, Godiva’s versatile chocolate spirit. It’s rather heavy on the cream, which gives it a bit of a bubble gum character and it’s oversweetened a bit — for something claiming to be made of “Dutch chocolate,” I’d hoped for something a little darker, less milky.

Still, it makes for a solid additive to coffee or as the aforementioned chocolate martini component if you’re looking for something silky rather than sharp.

B+ / $24 / vermeeruk.com

→ 3 Comments

Posted in Liqueurs, Rated B+, Reviews

Review: Scorpion Mezcals

Posted on May 23, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Mezcal (aka mescal) gets quite the rap. To set you straight, mezcal is made from a number of different types of agave (whereas tequila is only blue agave). The agave (or maguey) is roasted in a wood-fired pit for several days (whereas with tequila the agave is generally cooked in ovens), then fermented — a smoky flavor resulting from this roasting is characteristic of all mezcal. Mezcal must be 80% agave, whereas tequila must be 51%, legally (though, for both spirits, 100% agave results in the best quality spirit). Like tequila, mezcal can be bottled without aging, or after spending time in oak barrels.

Mezcal also has an amazing notoriety for causing hangovers. And then there’s “the worm,” a type of weevil or caterpillar larva that is often added to the bottle before it’s sent off to your local watering hole to get you drunk. Really just a marketing gimmick, the worm has become part of mezcal legend and seems not to be going anywhere soon.

Except for Scorpion Mezcal, which subs in a scorpion carapace in its mezcal bottlings in lieu of the good old worm. Gimmick? Sure, but no more than the worm. In fact, it’s considerably more awesome, in my opinion, to nab an arachnid in your bottle instead of a garden-variety bug. As for the little sombrero on the bottle, well, your kids will probably love ‘em.

We tried three Scorpion bottlings, each aged a different length of time. All are 80 proof and 100 percent agave. Some thoughts follow.

Scorpion Mezcal Silver (Joven) – The nose is agave, tinged with smoke, and that smoke expands heartily on the palate. The finish is surprisingly clean and quite warming, reminiscent of charcoal-fired barbeque grill on a hot day, maybe cooking up a meaty beef rib. A peppery character is evident on additional consumption, but otherwise this is pretty straightforward stuff and certainly a worthy entry into the category. B+ / $38

Scorpion Mezcal Reposado – Aged in oak for 2 to 11 months, but based on the pale color I’d guess somewhat closer to the former than the latter. Smoother on the palate than the Silver, but even smokier than its little brother. More complex than the Silver, with bigger agave notes and a specifically red pepper character to it. A sweet, sugary finish comes on (very) late in the finish, again warming you considerably. Probably a better choice for most than the Silver version for those who want to experience high-end mezcal as a novice. B+ / $42

Scorpion Mezcal Anejo 1 Year – Be advised — Scorpion also makes a 3 Year Anejo and with the exception of some rather small print, the bottles are the same. Now this, this is the stuff. Complexity really ramps up here, as the smoke plays with vanilla and ginger spice from all its time in wood to create something really unique. Not overwhelmingly smoky as many mezcals tend to be, with playful sweetness to cut through that. Amazingly smooth and quite addictive. Excellent price for the quality achieved. A / $48

Scorpion also makes several older mezcals, some aged up to seven years. Hope to give those a try someday and let you know about them.

scorpionmezcal.com

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Mezcal, Rated A, Rated B+, Reviews, Tequila

Review: Crispy Green Apples, Pears, Pineapples

Posted on May 23, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Recently we looked at the new banana version of these tasty dried fruit snacks. Crispy Green was kind enough to send along the rest of the line for our consideration too. (Note: Peaches and Apricots have since been discontinued.)

Crispy Pineapple (A-) is everyone’s favorite, with fresh pineapple flavor and a solid crunch — though some of the pieces can get a bit fibrous and on the tough side. I’m also quite partial to Crispy Apple (A-), which is nicely tart and the most flavorful of the Crispy line; it’s also got the largest size pieces, if you care about that sort of thing. Crispy Pears (B+) aren’t bad, either, but as always the pear plays second fiddle to the apple. Here they are very mild but similar in texture to the Apple flavor.

$1.49 per 10-gram pack / crispygreen.com

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Bar Food, Rated A-, Rated B+, Reviews

Review: Aberlour a’bunadh Scotch Whisky

Posted on May 21, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Amazing how impressions can differ over time and given a more leisurely tasting environment. I first encountered Aberlour’s a’bunadh at the Whiskies of the World event earlier this year and absolutely loved what I tasted. I finally bought a bottle this week and, while I still enjoy it, I find it’s not nearly the godsend I’d previously declared.

Big and brawny, straight from the bottle this is a heftily alcoholic Speyside whisky, overwhelming with the sherry tones from its years (no age statement is given) in oloroso sherry butts.

The dark copper color is incredibly rich, even after adding water. (This is a cask strength whisky (actual proof varies by the batch you get; mine is 121.2 proof, from batch 26) and it really needs some H2O to bring out its character.)

After you tone it down, a’bunadh becomes more charming, underlaying its sherry character with a chalky sweetness and lightly peaty notes.

Now I’m curious what batch number I had at WotW…

B+ / $66 / aberlour.com

(batch 13 pictured)

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Rated B+, Reviews, Scotch, Whiskey

Review: Bacardi Dragon Berry Rum

Posted on May 20, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

What is dragon fruit? Known formally as the pitaya, this Asian fruit has red skin and has a flavor described by some as a blend of “kiwi and Concord grape.”

Bacardi uses dragon fruit and strawberry to create this “Dragon Berry” infused rum (its eighth flavor), and extremely flavorful concoction.

Any notion of rum is largely absent here, as it’s all about the fruit — naturally flavored, I should add. The aroma of this stuff fills the room once it’s poured, and on the palate it’s very sweet, heavy on the strawberry and with melon-like secondary notes. There’s an alcoholic kick to it, but nothing particularly rum-like. This could be a flavored vodka and you likely wouldn’t be able to tell the difference. That’s not inherently a bad thing, but Bacardi Dragon Berry does come off more like a liqueur than anything else.

At 70 proof, it’s in line with most flavored spirits. Definitely try it as a mixer in your favorite froufrou concoction, or even with something simple like Coke, cranberry juice, or lemonade.

B / $16 / bacardi.com

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Flavored Rum, Rated B, Reviews, Rum

Review: Celtic Crossing Liqueur

Posted on May 19, 2009 by Christopher Null| 3 Comments

Ireland’s answer to Drambuie, this 60-proof liqueur is a blend of Irish whiskey, Cognac, and honey, intended primarily as a digestif.

Quite sweet but not overwhelmingly so, Celtic Crossing has a strong iced tea character that reveals itself in an interesting way, especially when served on the rocks. It’s not exactly whiskey, but it’s whiskey-esque — probably a wonderful idea to give to someone who claims not to like whiskey in order to introduce them — gently — to the idea.

Not terribly challenging, Celtic Crossing is quite pleasant but still calls for a significant sweet tooth in order to be truly enjoyed. Bonus points for the giant ship on the label.

B / $23 / celticcrossingliqueur.com

→ 3 Comments

Posted in Liqueurs, Rated B, Reviews

Review: Grand Traverse True North Vodka

Posted on May 19, 2009 by Christopher Null| 9 Comments

With its frosted glass bottle, inset with a drawing of a copse of trees, Grand Traverse Distillery aims for super-premium territory with this True North Vodka, and arguably succeeds.

Distilled from rye and bottled at 80 proof in Michigan, USA, this is perhaps the most unusual non-flavored vodka I’ve ever encountered. The nose and body are thick with rye character, and the first sip inundates the palate with citrus notes.

Anyone looking for a truly neutral, flavorless vodka will have to hunt elsewhere. Lemon peel is huge — not a hint, a big slug of bitter/sour lemon rind — with briny secondary notes of olives and sea spray. That rye character then comes back in the finish, like a big hunk of fresh rye bread. Overwhelming.

True North calls for something — vermouth, maybe a strong one like Vya or a Lillet Blanc — that will balance out some of its hugeness and mellow it out. This is a great vodka for lots-of-olives martini drinkers. Those looking for something to go with their 7-Up might want to look elsewhere.

B / $35 / grandtraversedistillery.com

→ 9 Comments

Posted in Rated B, Reviews, Vodka

Review: Glenfarclas 10 Year and 12 Year Scotch Whisky

Posted on May 19, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

These two bottles make up the youngest and most commonly available whiskys in the Glenfarclas portfolio (which includes bottlings as old as a whopping 50 years). These Highland malts are quite pleasing, accessible to either the new whisky drinker or the veteran looking for a solid standby.

Glenfarclas 10 Year is a classically structured malt whiskey, with a moderate peatiness, hefty malt, and a lingering finish that offers smoke touched with just a light flicker of honey. There’s iodine and seaweed in there if you hunt for it, a nice counterpart to the other notes in the malt that calls one to the sea. This is a quiet whisky but a sturdy one, and a good entry to peated Scotch. At 80 proof, it’s one you can drink all afternoon and not have to worry about figuring out where you parked your sheep. A- / $42

Glenfarclas 12 Year, though just 2 years older, is a surprisingly different beast. 86 proof in the bottle, the 12 Year is noticeably darker in color and has a much stronger flavor than the 10. Briny seaweed notes are huge here, with a big iodine finish rounded out by peat smoke. The 12 Year is more challenging than the 10 but not without substantial charms. B+ / $50

glenfarclas.co.uk