Monthly Archives: April 2009

This Can Only End Badly…

Virgin America will be offering Le Tourment Vert absinthe for sale and consumption at 30,000 feet, starting in May.

Via Boing Boing:

Incidentally, Virgin America (which today started service to/from Orange County) is also expanding the number of craft in its fleet that offer in-flight WiFi. Absinthe + internet + idle time? Can’t wait to read the mile-high tweets that result.

Personally, I can’t wait for the airborne grousing from the absinthe nerd crew that Le Tourment Vert isn’t “real absinthe.”

Review: Blue Angel Vodka

blue angel vodka 81x300 Review: Blue Angel VodkaThis new California vodka is distilled from (unspecified) American grains and distilled four times, and distiller (and inventor — he also created a battery-powered sticky note dispenser) Maurice Kanbar says he goes to great lengths to filter out hangover-causing congeners. Blue Angel, he says, contains less than 0.01 grams of congeners or fusel oils per liter of vodka, so for those obsessed with avoiding hangovers, well, this might just be the right stuff.

I wish I had more to report about the taste of the spirit, however. Very traditional in structure, it’s got loads of medicinal overtones. Ice (and a little meltwater) helps, but not much. Blue Angel may not give you a hangover, but I find it too rough around the edges to drink enough of to find out for sure.

Those who enjoy classic, old-school vodkas may get a kick out of the practically retro flavor of Blue Angel. Those wanting a base for their froufrou girl drink won’t be fans.

80 proof.

B- / $28 / blueangelvodka.com

Review: Glenfarclas 105 Cask Strength

Really enjoyed Glenfarclas’s 21- and 25-year Scotches at last year’s WhiskyFest, and had the opportunity to sample Glenfarclas 105 Cask Strength — a somewhat more commonly found whisky — last night.

First, understand that the 105 actually refers to the old British proof system: Glenfarclas 105 is actually 60 percent alcohol by volume, or 120 proof on the modern scale.

That makes it deadly hot, to be sure, but a splash or two of water allows one to fully appreciate Glenfarclas 105′s charms.

There’s no age statement on the whisky but it feels young. A bit rustic, really, lightly peated  and easygoing with the wood. It’s fresh apple, with light honey, heather, and flowers, that come through strongly here, ultimately proving to be a refreshing and very pleasant Scotch.

Prices vary enormously.

A- / $75 / glenfarclas.co.uk

glenfarclas 105 Review: Glenfarclas 105 Cask Strength

Review: Gosling’s Black Seal and Gold Rum

Not exactly a Johnny-come-lately in the rum world, Gosling’s is a brand that’s been around for over 150 years. 151 to be exact (hmmmmm)….

Here’s a long-overdue look at two of Gosling’s most popular and commonly-available blends. Both are sourced in Bermuda and bottled at 80 proof.

goslings black seal rum 139x300 Review: Goslings Black Seal and Gold RumGosling’s Black Seal Black Rum – This is the most common of the Gosling’s bottlings, a dark, “black” rum that’s commonly called for by name in Dark & Stormy cocktails. It’s easy to see why: On the rocks, it’s a smooth and intensely sweet and filled with deep molasses character. Aromatic and full of exotic spice notes — cinnamon, ginger, cloves — it almost could pass for a spiced rum and is interchangable in cocktail recipes if you’re out of Kilo Kai. Best of all, Black Seal is a good deal at just $16 (and often on sale for much cheaper). A-

Gosling’s Gold Bermuda Rum – Seen less frequently, Gosling’s Gold is an interesting counterpart to Black Seal for when you need a different style in your concoction. Less smooth and more rustic in style, it’s got more of a wood and smoke character than the molasses-like Black Seal. Lighter in color than your typical amber rum, it mellows out with ice and a little meltwater, but on the whole it’s better as a mixer than on its own. Still, as with Black Seal, an impressive value for the money (also $16). B+

goslingsrum.com

goslings gold rum Review: Goslings Black Seal and Gold Rum

Review: Pepsi Natural

With little fanfare, Pepsi Natural seems to have abruptly arrived on store shelves: I found a small stack of the new, all-natural version of Pepsi in my local Safeway, on sale for $2.99 for a four-pack of 12-oz. glass bottles. (Regular price: $3.99.)

Of course I had to buy it so I could review the stuff.

It truly is a natural product (though be clear, with 38 grams of sugar, it’s not something I’d call “healthy”): The ingredients include water, sugar, apple extract, caramel color (both for color), citric acid, caffeine, acacia gum, tartaric acid, lactic acid, natural flavor, and kola nut extract, in that order.

Foremost you’ll notice that Pepsi Natural is somewhat less carbonated than other soft drinks, which gives it less of a bracing rush and a lighter, smoother taste. It’s certainly sweet, but not cloying, and it has some of that initial spiciness that makes regular Pepsi unmistakable at first sip. But as you drink it — and it goes down fast and easy — that spice evolves into more of a cinnamon character, and by the end of the bottle (or rather, well before the end) I was really enjoying the flavor and wishing for another glass.

I don’t normally drink standard Pepsi — I find it too chemical-tasting and metallic — but this reimagination is not bad at all. It’s already on my short list of favorite sodas, and even if you’re a Pepsi-hater, I suggest you give it a try.

So, Coke… where’s yours?

A- / pepsi.com

pepsi natural Review: Pepsi Natural

Review: Marti Autentico Dorado Especial Rum

marti autentico dorado especial Review: Marti Autentico Dorado Especial RumMarti is best known for a flavored, green-tinted “Mojito” rum that’s available reasonably widely across the country. (The company also has a coconut-flavored rum too, which I’ve never seen for sale.) This is Marti’s first non-flavored product, a traditional aged rum (sans official age statement), which the company labels as “Cuban-style, ultra premium rum.”

It certainly doesn’t taste like any Cuban rum I’ve ever had, but I can see what they were going for at least. Havana Club has a woody, charred, cachaca-like character too it, but Marti is overwhelming with rubber notes and a taste I’ve only been able to describe — after several weeks of sampling it — as akin to pine trees. There’s a strong amount of wood smoke here, but combined with that huge amount of rubber character, it comes across more like a tire fire than anything else.

Sourced from the West Indies (not further specified). 84.8 proof.

C- / $20 / chathamimports.com

Pineapple Vodka Smackdown! Skyy vs. Van Gogh

When last I covered the high-test world of pineapple-flavored vodkas, I declared Skyy my new favorite, and a clear winner over the old bottle of Van Gogh Pineapple I had on hand.

Van Gogh cried foul, suggesting that I try a fresh bottle of Van Gogh Pineapple so I could put the two head for head legitimately.

And so I did.

I poured an identical amount of each spirt over the same amount of ice in the same style glass and let them chill for the same amount of time. Fair is fair in this test.

And the winner? Still Skyy, but not by as wide a margin as I’d previously thought. Both spirits are easily drinkable, but Skyy’s version has more flavor and a sweeter finish. Van Gogh has a touch of bitterness on the finish; nothing shocking, but noticeable when head to head with Skyy. Both work just fine in cocktails (and seriously, who’s drinking pineapple vodka straight?) — but considering Skyy Pineapple is about 8 bucks cheaper than Van Gogh, it’s hard not to recommend picking up Skyy if you have a choice.

Revised ratings based on further review:

Skyy Pineapple: A (up from A-)
Van Gogh Pineapple: A- (down from A but up from interim B+ estimate)

Review: Bache-Gabrielsen Classic XO Cognac

A Double Gold winner at this year’s San Francisco International Spirits Competition, Bache-Gabrielsen’s XO is a relative newcomer to the Cognac world, launched officially only in 1996, a wee babe in this rarefied industry.

Blended from 72 percent Grande Champagne grapes and 28 percent Petite Champagne, then aged for about 20 years, this is a gorgeous looking brandy, dark amber fading to orange at the base of the glass and full of both color and promise.

The nose doesn’t disappoint: It immediately strikes one as hot and very woody, but there’s so much depth underneath that. It’s hard not to take a sip immediately, and that’s when the surprises begin: The body is far lighter on the wood than you expect it will be, as a caramel, apple, and cinnamon-like spice character hit you like a truck. Almost like apple pie, now that I type that all out, with a good slug of vanilla on the finish along with hints of cedar and sage.

It’s not quite perfectly in balance, as hints of bitterness seep through here and there, but on the whole it’s quite an exceptional Cognac and one well worth trying out… if you can find it. (It’s not distributed in California presently, which is a tragedy for brandy enthusiasts.)

80 proof.

A- / $115 / bache-gabrielsen.com

bache gabrielsen xo cognac Review: Bache Gabrielsen Classic XO Cognac

Review: Blue Ice Organic Wheat Vodka

Blue Ice expands its line of vodka the month with this second rendition.

The original was made of potatoes, this one’s (as the name suggests) distilled from organic wheat. Incidentally, the bottle’s clear this time around, making the name a bit of a misnomer, but hey, it’s what’s inside that counts.

Funny then that Blue Ice’s wheat edition doesn’t cut a substantially different profile than its earlier edition. Blue Ice 2.0 has a hearty medicinal character, is a bit oily on the palate, and washes down clean. There’s not much to it after the quick finish, making Blue Ice Wheat fine for mixing but uninspired on its own.

Of course, the USDA certified organic should attract more than a little interest,  but now you’ll find a veritable ton of organic vodkas on the market, many of which are less expensive.

B+ / $30 / blueicevodka.com

blue ice organic wheat Review: Blue Ice Organic Wheat Vodka

Tasting Report: Napa Valley with Altitude, April 23, 2009

Much like last year at this event, I found myself impressed with the wines being shown from the mountain wineries of Mount Veeder, Spring Mountain, and Diamond Mountain in Napa.

Unlike last year, though, I found myself not overwhelmed by tannin in the vast majority of wines being poured. The newer bottlings (mostly 2005 cabernets) are more fruit forward, and older ones (including some poured last year) have mellowed out a bit after a year in bottle. Also got the chance to taste three different bottlings from the ’90s — though none of them were as good as their younger counterparts.

My favorite wine of the event came from an outlet I’d never heard of: O’Shaugnessy, which makes a trio of wines but had only its Mt. Veeder Cabernet on tap. At $95 a bottle it doesn’t come cheap, but it’s hard to find wines with this level of intensity that are also full of ripe fruit and amazing wood/tannin balance, too. Could have drank this all day.

Props as well to Guilliams for pulling out the 2004 Cabernet Reserve from Spring Mountain for a taste: Amazing richness, incredible depth; needs about five more years in the bottle and it’ll be perfect. Also really enjoyed their Cabernet Franc, a wine that’s often difficult to pull off with finesse.

At last, some credit to Sherwin Family Vineyards for its jammy Dry Creek Valley Syrah. Not really a mountain wine, no, but easy-drinking… and not, apparently, for sale on the company’s website, either.

Overall: Very impressive wines, all around.

Full report follows, rating 23 wines. Prices were not available at the show.

Napa Valley with Altitude 2009 Full Report

2002 Godspeed Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder / A-
1999 Godspeed Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder / B+
2005 Godspeed Trinity / B
2003 Mayacamas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder / A-
1995 Mayacamas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder / B-
2005 O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder / A
2005 Vinoce Red Blend Mt. Veeder / A-
2006 Frias Family Vineyard Spring Mountain Cabernet / A-
2006 Frias Family Vineyard Red Wine / A-
2004 Guilliams Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain Reserve / A
2005 Guilliams Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain / B+
2004 Guilliams Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain / A-
2005 Guilliams Vineyards Cabernet Franc / A-
2005 Marston Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain / B+
2005 Sherwin Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain / A-
2005 Sherwin Family Vineyards Dry Creek Valley Syrah / A
2005 Andrew Geoffrey Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain / B+
2005 Diamond Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain / B+
2006 Diamond Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain / B+
1999 Diamond Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain / B
2005 Dyer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain / A-
2006 Von Strasser Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain / A-
2006 Von Strasser Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain Estate / A-