Monthly Archives: March 2009

Review: Gordon & MacPhail Caol Ila 8 Year

Posted on March 9, 2009 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

Mega-independent bottlers-slash-retailers Gordon & MacPhail are releasing a few new private bottlings this season, notably featuring this new 8-year expression of Caol Ila, served up for your approval.

The initial nose is a hefty dose of peat and smoke, and though the color is just the palest gold, it hints at a mightily big, smoky, and oily Scotch indeed.

But the body is quite unexpected, with a far lighter touch of smoke and a more powerful kick of fruit and sweetness than I’d thought likely. The balance is surprisingly sophisticated for a whisky so young, both easy drinking but lush with hints of dried cherries, violets, lavender, and fresh cut grass. There’s a hint of coal alongside the peat smoke, too… very subtle, but it comes out in the finish.

I was surprised by how much I enjoyed this whisky and, should I ever come across one, would happily add a bottle to my collection.

92 proof.

A- / $65 to $70 / gordonandmacphail.com

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Posted in Rated A-, Reviews, Scotch, Whiskey

Behind the Scenes at the World’s Best Bars

Posted on March 9, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

“Once you try my Bellini, you will never want another one that was not mine.”

Strong words, but if anyone knows their stuff, it’s these guys. The Dorchester Collection of hotels offers intimate conversations and video recipes with its bar managers. so you can make those epic Bellinis for yourself.

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Posted in Bars, Recipes

Review: Drinkin’ Mate Hangover Defense

Posted on March 8, 2009 by Christopher Null| 10 Comments

There’s good news and bad news about Drinkin’ Mate, another entry into the growing category of hangover prevention remedies.

First the good: Compared to the field, Drinkin’ Mate is the best-tasting hangover preventer around. It’s an effervescent pill (like an Alka-Seltzer). Just drop it in a few ounces of water, and you get a fizzy, fruity drink that goes down pretty quickly and painlessly. Made primarily from guava leaf extract, it’s a bit tropical and a lot berry-like (the only version seems to be “wild berry flavor”), very sweet (thanks to shots of sorbitol and sucralose). Unlike some of those nasty, syrupy hangover cures, you won’t have to choke this one down before you go out. (The company also says you can take it after drinking to avoid a hangover.)

Now the bad news: For me, Drinkin’ Mate did absolutely nothing to prevent a hangover. The one I’ve been nursing today is the outright worst in recent memory, which makes me wonder how effective guava leaf could possibly be at fighting off the headache from a half-dozen glasses of whiskey and wine. The only other real active ingredient here is sodium bicarbonate, pretty tame stuff that would have no hope against a major alco-binge, at least it didn’t for me.

As always, these remedies are often a shot in the dark, and some work for some drinkers and not at all for others. Your mileage may vary, but while I didn’t get any benefit from Drinkin’ Mate, at least the act of drinking Drinkin’ Mate didn’t make me want to throw up on the spot.

C / $24 for 12 tablets / drinkinmate.com

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Posted in Hangover, Mixers, Rated C, Reviews

Review: Reed’s Raspberry Ginger Brew

Posted on March 7, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

Take a standard Reed’s Ginger Brew and add 20 percent raspberry juice and what do you get? A nicely refreshing drink that offers the best of both the ginger and fruit juice worlds.

To be honest, that 20 percent raspberry goes a long way, overpowering the ginger component more than you’d expect — although it doesn’t make a specifically raspberry impression, more of a vague red-berry character. It’s sweet but not cloying, with a big berry finish.

Worth a shot in lieu of standard ginger ale — or instead of cranberry juice — in any cocktail, just to see how it turns out… and also very pleasurable on its own.

A- / $19 for twelve 12 oz. bottles / reedsgingerbrew.com

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Posted in Mixers, Rated A-, Reviews

Thailand’s New “National Cocktail”

Posted on March 7, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

How do you get people to come and visit your faraway land? Lure them with booze:

Intended as an answer to Singapore’s slings, Cuba’s mojitos and the many manhattans downed in New York, the Siam sunray is intended to give tourists an instant taste of Thailand’s charms.

At the very least the drink’s ingredients are far from bland: a shot of vodka, coconut liqueur, a dash of chilli pepper and sugar, lime juice, a few slivers of lemongrass and ginger, with the whole mixture shaken then strained into a glass with ice and soda water.

Thailand’s tourism authority formally rolled out the drink yesterday, grandly styling the concoction “Thailand in a glass: the new punch in Thai tourism.”

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Posted in Liqueurs, Recipes, Vodka

Review: Tullamore Dew Irish Whiskey

Posted on March 6, 2009 by Christopher Null| 1 Comment

No one reaches first for Tullamore Dew when they think of Irish whiskey, but looking at the spirit was fresh eyes, nostrils, and taste buds, it’s really not half bad.

That said, the “Standard Blend” is nothing special. The flavor profile of the Dew is mildly sweet and malt-like, touched with lemon and with a mild bit of wood atop it (it’s aged a minimum of three years… and I doubt much more than that), punctuated by some bitterness and a moderate amount of burn. Though it’s just 80 proof, most complaints about Tullamore Dew involve how hot it can be, which is probably why it’s often consumed on the rocks.

All in all, a totally passable whiskey, though at 20 bucks a bottle, it’s probably not really a go-to whiskey over plain-old Jameson or Bushmill’s.

B- / $20 / tullamoredew.com

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Posted in Irish Whiskey, Rated B-, Reviews, Whiskey

Recipe: Shamrocked

Posted on March 6, 2009 by Christopher Null| 2 Comments

St. Patrick’s Day is just a week and change away. That means spirits merchants inundate us with holiday-appropriate recipes — I’ve been surprised by the number of tequila-based cocktail ideas this year — but this was the one I was most anxious to try, courtesy of the folks at Tullamore Dew. (Irish whiskey, of course, should always get preference on the 17th.)

Here’s the concoction:

Shamrocked
2 oz. Midori melon liqueur
1/2 oz. Tullamore Dew Irish whiskey
1/2 oz. Carolans Irish cream liqueur

Shake incredibly well, serve in 3 oz. shot glass

It sounds awful but it’s surprisingly good, an easy-drinking, creamy, and predominantly minty (yes, minty) cocktail. I’m always skeptical of Midori-based drinks, but this one’s not at all bad. And if nothing else, at least it looks the part!

Give it a whirl.

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Posted in Irish Whiskey, Liqueurs, Recipes, Whiskey

Review: Combier Liqueur d’Orange

Posted on March 5, 2009 by Christopher Null| 4 Comments

The world has no shortage of orange-flavored liqueurs. If generic triple sec, Cointreau, or Grand Marnier aren’t good enough, you can always delve into a dozen or so orange-infused vodkas on the market.

I’d say there’s room for one more, but La Distillerie Combier has a different claim to make: It owns up to being the world’s first triple sec, first distilled in 1834 in France. Combier has been available in Europe for nearly 175 years, but only now is it finally coming to the States.

It was worth the wait.

Combier is a very pristine and clean orange liqueur. Distilled frwom West Indian orange peel and French sugar beets (as a base), it’s totally clear (unlike, say, Grand Marnier), and the flavor is nothing but pure, sweetened oranges. I put it head to head against my standby orange liqueur, Cointreau, and found them virtually identical: Both are totally clear, 80 proof, powerfully sweet, and unadulterated in their orange-ness. Strain all you want to taste them, but any additional “secret ingredients” go unnoticed in both these spirits.

The bottom line is that Combier and Cointreau are largely interchangeable, though thankfully both are of exceptional quality. The only difference is that Combier is slightly sweeter than Cointreau, which has a tiny bitter tinge in the finish. But you would never notice the difference in a cocktail. (Note that Combier is quite a bit different than Grand Marnier, though — lacking the honeyed, oaky character that comes from that spirit’s cognac base.)

Try them both and see if you find a favorite — they cost about the same, too — and if you can’t, well, buy the one that’s on sale.

A / $40 / combierusa.com

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Posted in Liqueurs, Rated A, Reviews

Upcoming: Toast of the Town 2009 – March 26, 2009

Posted on March 5, 2009 by Christopher Null| Leave a comment

For the third year, Wine Enthusiast magazine will be throwing its Toast of the Town wine event in San Francisco. This year features 70-plus wineries from all over the world plus food from 30 Bay Area restaurants, all inside the glorious confines of the San Francisco War Memorial Opera House.

Tickets are $75 to $185 (buy yours early for a deal) and proceeds benefit the San Francisco Food Bank. I’ll be on the scene, with a wine report after the event, so say hi if you see me there. Still, as good as the wine looks, it’s the food that really has me slavering. Consider these participating restaurants and you’ll see what I mean!

Ana Mandara, Asia de Cuba, Aurea, Bistro Boudin, Café Gibraltar, Campton Place, Cheese Plus, Chez Papa Resto, Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen, Cliff House, Castagnola’s, Daffodil, Epic Roasthouse, étoile at Domaine Chandon, First Crush, Go Fish, Home of Chicken and Waffles, Jeanty at Jack’s, Joe DiMaggio’s Italian Chophouse, Masa’s, Millennium Restaurant, Mustards Grill, Pica Pica Maize Kitchen, Postrio, Rivoli Restaurant, Rose Pistola, Shanghai 1930, Shokolaat, The Girl and the Fig, The Slanted Door, Trattoria Corso, and Zinnia.

Space is limited. Find tickets and get more information at wineenthusiast.com.

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Posted in Upcoming Events, Wine

Review: Suntory The Yamazaki 18 Year Single Malt Whisky

Posted on March 4, 2009 by Christopher Null| 6 Comments

I’m quite the fan of Suntory’s 12 year old Yamazaki Japanese whisky, and finally got the chance to compare the 12 year to the 18 year version of The Yamazaki, side by side.

Everything you like about the 12 year — honey and citrus galore — is present in the 18, but amped up into a darker, more powerful concoction. It’s a smokier whisky than the 12,but very full bodied with candied fruits, banana, and strong bitter orange character. The finish is on the bitter side, which is the only flaw in this otherwise compelling whisky, which is, on the whole, perfect for, erm… relaxing times.

86 proof (same as the 12 year).

A- / $100 / suntory.com/yamazaki/