Monthly Archives: February 2009

Review: Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace Brut Blanc de Blancs

Produced in a style similar to Champagne and made just around the corner in the Alsace region of France, Lucien Albrecht’s Cremant d’Alsace Brut Blanc de Blancs is a very lovely sparkling white wine that won’t break the bank.

Elegant and moderately to heavily fizzy, the nonvintage Brut has a very sharp apple nose to it. The body is dry and cleansing, a crisp sparkler that goes down very smoothly and with a short finish. The fruit lingers for a few seconds, then it’s gone, inviting you to take another sip. I like it best after it’s had a few minutes to decompress and let out a bit of its bubbles. Heretical, maybe, but try it in a Chardonnay glass and see what you think.

Incidentally I gave this wine the same rating at last year’s Alsace wine and cheese event, where it earned my “best of category” rating. Check it out here.

A- / $17 / lucien-albrecht.com

lucien albrecht brut cremant d alsace Review: Lucien Albrecht Cremant dAlsace Brut Blanc de Blancs

Review: Citadelle Gin and Citadelle Reserve Gin

One occasionally gets in the mood for gin, and when one does, said mood hits hard. Citadelle is a relative newcomer to the scene… with not one but two gins for your drinking pleasure. These gins hail, unusually, from France, and both are 88 proof, distilled from wheat.

citadelle gin 199x300 Review: Citadelle Gin and Citadelle Reserve GinUp first is standard Citadelle Gin, though there’s little that’s standard about its botanicals. I’ll let Citadelle explain itself rather than digesting it here. Part of an uncovered recipe from the 18th century, Citadelle includes 19 botanicals: “coriander from Morocco; orange peel from Mexico; cardamom and nutmeg from India; licorice from China; cubeb pepper from Java; juniper, savory, violet and star anise from France; fennel from the Mediterranean; iris from Italy; cinnamon from Sri Lanka; almonds and lemon rind from Spain; cassia from Indochina; angelica from Germany; grains of paradise from West Africa; and cumin from Holland.”

That’s quite a concoction, but the juniper is tragically the most prevalent component here. You’ll also get notes of the more earthy parts of the blend, especially the cardamom and coriander. Citrus notes are lacking, which was a big disappointment for me. I tried this in a casino cocktail but it clashed with the other elements. Some say tonic is is Citadelle’s best fit, and that’s a combination I can get behind. B / $25

I was a much bigger fan of Citadelle Reserve Gin, which infuses the spirit with the same 19 spices but then ages the blend in oak cognac casks for six months. Each bottle is vintage dated (mine is 2008), though I doubt you’ll see much variation from year to year.

I liked this far better than the unaged Citadelle, though the strongly yellow color is surprising. The juniper is much more understated after that time in the barrel, and a nice vanilla sweetness comes into the forefront. It’s very citrusy on the tongue, with a lively spiciness — perhaps that is the cubeb pepper? While far from anything I’d describe as traditional, Citadelle Reserve is good enough to merit possible replacement of Plymouth as my go-to standard gin (and it’s amazing in cocktails)… but does six months in oak really merit a $15 price hike? Yikes. A / $40

citadellegin.com

citadelle reserve gin Review: Citadelle Gin and Citadelle Reserve Gin

Review: Fighting Cock Bourbon

One approaches a spirit called “Fighting Cock” with tempered expectations. The name does not suggest smoothness or elegance, but rather an old-school saloon bourbon that will probably encourage you to get into a situation in which you end up bleeding before the night is out.

Fighting Cock is not as scary as it sounds — it’s aged for six years and, though it hits 103 proof, it’s not quite lethal. Yes, it’s a firebreathing, hot whiskey, and you’d be mad to drink this one without water. Frankly, it works best as a mixer.

On its own, once you push past the heat (try a cube of ice), Fighting Cock offers some interesting and unusual character: Heavy on the wood and the charcoal, with just a hint of sweetness in the finish. The sweet is more like a pure sugar character than honey or vanilla. If you like your bourbon on the savory side — more Tennessee in style — this is a good one to try as a change of pace, and at $17.50 a bottle, it’s definitely competitively priced.

B / $17.50 / fightingcock.com

fighting cock bourbon Review: Fighting Cock Bourbon

Review: Springbank 21 Year Old Single Malt Whisky

springbank 21 year scotch whisky Review: Springbank 21 Year Old Single Malt WhiskyDug up this old bottle at a friend’s house last night… one whiff and I knew I’d found something special. Springbank isn’t a big name in Scotch whisky in America, but if its younger (and less expensive) bottlings are anything like this one, it really deserves to be. Located in Campbeltown (on the little peninsula that juts out toward Ireland alongside Islay), it claims to be the only distillery in Scotland that performs 100% of the production process in its own facilities — including floor malting, maturation, and bottling.

This 21-year whisky is smooth as silk, offering lush honey sweetness and a strong kick of heather. Perfect balance, with a touch of peat and coal soot to remind you of a night by the fire. A nice, long finish ends up on a sweet note and reaching for the bottle for another dram.

Tragically, Springbank doesn’t appear to make the 21-year malt any more, and what’s left on the market is horribly expensive. Do what I do: Find a friend who has some, and drink it while he isn’t looking.

86 proof.

A / $380 / springbankdistillers.com

Review: Clear Creek McCarthy’s Oregon Single Malt 3 Years Old

One sip — heck, one sniff — of McCarthy’s whiskey and you’d swear it was fresh off the boat from a foggy distillery on the shores of Islay instead of in Portland, Oregon. The only hint that you’re drinking something different is the pale gold color, a signal of a relatively short time in cask — in this case, a mere three years in wood.

McCarthy’s certainly works to be traditionalist: It’s made from Scottish barley, it’s peated (quite a bit), and aged in old sherry barrels (though real Scotch is normally aged in old bourbon casks… details, details).

Clear Creek says that it resembles Lagavulin in style, but I think it’s better. What Stephen McCarthy has achieved here is a richly peated whisky — redolent with iodine, salt, and smoke — that still has some balance to it. There’s a touch of citrus-like sweetness here; orange, mostly, and a little banana too, with a honey kicker. There’s a touch of pepper in there, too.

The finish is surprisingly mild and a little sweet, making this whiskey impressive in its overall structure and balance. I got a touch of bitterness in a few sips early on. Let it aerate for a bit and you’ll find McCarthy’s nothing but charming.

80 proof.

A- / $50 / clearcreekvineyards.com

mccarthys single malt oregon whiskey1 Review: Clear Creek McCarthys Oregon Single Malt 3 Years Old

Buy Some Wine, Do Something Good

Benefiting The Young School in St. Helena, California… some pretty impressive auction items, including:

  • 2005 3L Harlan Napa Valley Red Wine
  • 1.5L horizontal collection of 2005 Bond (Melbury, Vecina, St. Eden, Pluribus)
  • 1.5L Levy & McClellan 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 1.5L Sloan Red Wine vertical collection (2003, 2004, 2005)

Check out the full catalog at the above link!

Review: Amarula Marula Fruit Cream Liqueur

“This natural fruit cream is produced from fresh cream and the unique fruit of the marula tree.” That pretty much means nothing to me, but that’s not going to stop anyone from drinking Amarula, a cream liqueur that hails from South Africa.

You can functionally replace Irish Cream in any drink with Amarula, but the opposite hemisphere gives Amarula a litle different kick than Bailey’s. It looks nearly identical and has a very familiar taste of caramel, chocolate, and cream… but keep drinking and it reveals a twist or two. A spicy, peppery finish and a hint of citrus — which is a nice touch in balancing out the overwhelming sweetness of the drink.

Amarula leaves quite an aftertaste, though it’s hardly unpleasant. I’ve largely been drinking Amarula on the rocks, unmixed — and it must be said that it’s a total crowd-pleaser — but I think it works even better with a little something else mixed in. (It’s a mere 34 proof after all.)

A- / $20 / amarula.com

amarula cream liqueur Review: Amarula Marula Fruit Cream Liqueur

February 22 Is National Margarita Day

Most people don’t need an official pronouncement to drink margaritas, but every little bit helps, I guess.

Tomorrow is National Margarita Day (for real), Did you know?

In honor, our friends at Tequila Herradura — which claims to have been the first tequila ever used in a margarita cocktail — offers some fun facts for the occasion.

  • The original Margarita was invented in 1948 by socialite Margarita Sames. According to the legend it was during a party at her cliffside hacienda in Acapulco that Margarita began experimenting with “the drink”. Looking for something to cut the dust of a hot afternoon, she mixed Tequila Herradura, Cointreau and fresh lime juice. Her cocktail kept the party going for two weeks and today the Margarita is the #1 most popular cocktail in the U.S.
  • The Margarita was the most popularly ordered drink in 2008, representing 18 percent of all mixed drink sales in the U.S., followed by the Martini, Rum and Coke, Vodka and Tonic, and the Cosmopolitan (Cheers On-Premise Handbook 2008)
  • On average, Americans consume 185,000 Margaritas per hour (Brown-Forman, 2008)
  • Margarita consumption peaked in the South accounting for 34.9 percent of sales; markets include Alabama, Florida, North Carolina, Texas etc. (Cheers On-Premise Handbook 2008)
  • Atlanta, Miami, St. Louis and Nashville are among the best major metro cities for the Margarita (Cheers On-Premise Handbook 2008)
  • The first frozen margarita machine was invented in 1971 and it was based off a soft-serve ice cream machine
  • The U.S. is the number one tequila market – larger and more important than Mexico (Cheers On-Premise Handbook 2008)

Review: Lagavulin Distillers’ Edition 1992

lagavulin distillers edition 1992 Review: Lagavulin Distillers Edition 1992Check out the Malts.com “Flavour Map” and look in the top right corner. Yep, that’s Lagavulin Distillers Edition, the whisky we’re drinking here, pegged to the limits of “smoky” and “rich.”

There’s nothing subtle in Lagavulin’s 16-year-old special bottling (released in 2008), which is finished in Pedro Ximenez casks to finish off the whisky. This is a huge, peaty and phenolic whisky. There are hints of sweetness that fade in and out, but they can’t stave off that big burst of salty seaweed and peat smoke, that overwhelms you with a ridiculously long finish.

If this style of whisky is your bag, check it out immediately. It’s just a little too much for me.

86 proof.

B / $90 / malts.com

Tequila Cocktails from Don Julio

Spend last night at an epic (10 dishes!) dinner thrown by the good folks at Don Julio Tequila (reviews here), showing off how Don Julio products work as a cocktail recipe component — and how those cocktails fit with food (turns out, quite well). Not a bad cocktail among the bunch — though the fan favorite was the first one, the spicy/sweet/savory Don Julio Caesar — and I was quite partial to the 1942 Spicy Cacao, a chocolate/cinnamon/tequila dessert drink that really brought out the best flavors of Don Julio’s 1942 special edition bottling.

Though mixologist Brandon Skaggs had a penchant for calling all of his creations “easy” and “simple,” to be honest they’re all pretty labor intensive to make at home. Instead, check them out at Cortez in San Francisco so Skaggs can do the dirty work for you. Lazier drinkers might do like we did at the end of the evening and just enjoy a snifter of the 1942 unembellished instead.

Thanks to the good folks at Don Julio for throwing the event!

don julio caesar 239x300 Tequila Cocktails from Don JulioDon Julio Caesar
1 ½ ounces Tequila Don Julio Blanco
1 pinch of fresh cilantro
1 jalapeño pepper sliced and seeded
½ ounce of fresh lime juice
½ ounce Grand Marnier
¼ ounce agave syrup
1 whole jalapeño for garnish

Preparation:
1. Add Tequila Don Julio Blanco, Grand Marnier, cilantro, 6 jalapeño slices, and lime juice into a Boston shaker.
2. Muddle well and add agave syrup.
3. Shake well and strain into a highball glass and garnish with a jalapeño.

Ideal Serving Glass:
Highball glass

Yield:
1 drink

southern belle 197x300 Tequila Cocktails from Don JulioThe Southern Belle
1 ½ ounces Tequila Don Julio Reposado
½ ounce red Vermouth
½ ounce of fresh lemon juice
6 fresh basil slices
½ ounce simple syrup
2 dashes of peach bitters
Lime wedge for garnish
Ice

Preparation:
1. Add Tequila Don Julio Reposado, red Vermouth, lemon juice, basil and simple syrup into a Boston shaker.
2. Muddle ingredients well, add peach bitters and stir.
3. Strain into short glass with ice and garnish with a lime wedge.

Ideal Serving Glass:
Short glass

Yield:
1 drink

fall and summer 244x300 Tequila Cocktails from Don JulioFall and Summer
1 ½ ounces Tequila Don Julio Añejo
½ ounce fig preserves
½ ounce orange juice
½ ounce ginger syrup (recipe follows)
5 leaves of fresh rosemary

Preparation:
1. Add Tequila Don Julio Añejo, orange juice, fig preserves, and rosemary leaves into a Boston shaker.
2. Muddle well and add ginger syrup.
3. Shake well, strain into highball glass and garnish with rosemary sprig.

Ginger Syrup
Ingredients:
1 cup sugar
½ cup water

Preparation:
1. Bring 1 part water to a boil and dissolve 2 parts sugar into boiling water.
2. Once the sugar is dissolved completely, remove the pan from the heat
3. Allow to cool completely. Can be prepared one day ahead.
4. Finely chop ginger root and place in a mesh strainer. Pour simple syrup over the top and muddle the ginger through the strainer creating concentrated ginger-simple syrup.

Ideal Serving Glass:
Highball glass

Yield:
1 drink

1942 spicy cacao 234x300 Tequila Cocktails from Don Julio1942 Spicy Cacao
1 ½ ounces Tequila Don Julio 1942
Chocolate-cream mixture (recipe follows)
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
3 ounces steamed milk
dash of chili powder for garnish

Preparation
1. Add Tequila Don Julio 1942, fresh ginger, and chocolate-cream mixture into a martini glass.
2. Top drink off with steamed milk and garnish with chili powder.

Chocolate-Cream Mix
Ingredients:
3 ounces of Vosges Red Fire Bar
2 ounces cream
2 vanilla beans
2-3 chiles
Pinch of cayenne pepper

Preparation:

1. Melt chocolate with cream in a saucepan. Add chilies, vanilla beans, and cayenne. Cook for 3-4 minutes and remove from heat.

Ideal Serving Glass:
Martini glass

Yield:
1 drink