Glenlivet launches its oldest (permanent collection) Scotch this fall, a 25-year malt called XXV. It’s exceptional.

Aged in oak and Oloroso Sherry casks, the XXV has a light playfulness and a near-perfect balance for a single malt Scotch. Bottled at 86 proof, it needs the tiniest splash of water to cut through some pretty intense heat. Then comes the magic: Honey and flowers are on the nose, with heather, hay, and nuttiness immediately following. There’s something in the finish that’s hard to pin down, but it’s wonderful… a sweetness that made me think of toasted raisin bread.

Overall, this is a classic and richly creamy Scotch that reminds one of the rolling hills of Scotland… or at least, it would remind me of them if I’d ever been to Scotland. (Sigh.) In its tasting notes, Glenlivet says it’s “like walking into an antique shop,” and I can totally get on board with that. You’d be lucky to try it if you can track down a bottle… and are willing to pay the price!

A / $350 / theglenlivet.com/xxv