Even old New York was once New Amsterdam. However, New Amsterdam gin is made in good old Modesto, California (not Constantinople). It’s also a surprising twist on gin as you might know it now. Why they changed it, I can’t say. Maybe they like it better that way.

OK, enough tomfoolery. New Amsterdam has the juniper nose of Tanqueray, but one sip is something entirely different. Namely, the juniper is suppressed and the citrus, namely orange, is really pumped up. If it weren’t for the juniper undertone and the strong aroma of juniper, I’d have thought I was drinking an orange-infused vodka instead of gin.

That’s bad news for a Martini (unless you like yours with a twist instead of olives) but good news for fruit-oriented cocktails like the Casino. Most of New Amsterdam’s cocktail ideas are heavy on fruit like watermelon or guava. Sounds like the right idea to me.

If you’re looking for a different gin for drinking straight (or nearly so in a Martini), look elsewhere. But for mixing into more exotic cocktails, New Amsterdam is a solid (and very affordable) choice.

B / $14 / newamsterdamgin.com