Review: 2007 Henry Fessy Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau

I should have written this up a month ago, when the 2007 Beaujolais Nouveaus first hit the market, but time got away from me… plus, there are still plenty of Beaujolais Nouveau wines available, including this one from Henry Fessy.

For those not familiar with Beaujolais Nouveau, this is a young wine from the Burgundy region in France, made with the Gamay grape and meant to be consumed before the year of release is up. If you’re drinking 2007 Beaujolais Nouveau in 2008, it’s past its prime.

The best Beaujolais is Beaujolais-Villages (clearly noted on the label), and you’ll pay a slight premium for it: $15 or so for a B-V vs. about $10 for a straight, blended Beaujolais. And Henry Fessy’s entry into 2007 is a fine one, considerably less “jammy” than standard-grade Beaujolais and bearing at least a slight bit of complexity (though that’s hardly the hallmark of the party-friendly Beaujolais).

Cut through the plummy, red-fruit core and you’ll find lots of herbs — surprising, really — under the surface. They’re hard to place, but I’d go rosemary, perhaps thyme. The combination is a delight, and the Fessy is very easy-drinking. I even paired it with lamb chops and roasted red peppers, and the match was fine.

Get some now. You’ve got two weeks left.

A- / $15 / vins-henry-fessy.com

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